James Halliday Interactive Wine Companion 1999

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work makAll play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All HBAM2016AUG95 Pro 3.0 All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a goodCopyright 1984-1997 Claris Corporation and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. All play and no work makes John a good boy. derwent@ january@ ready@ well-known@ other wineries abundant acidity adequate@ amontillado@ announced apart architecture around aspects attention@ australian barrel bearing@ befits@ blended bragato's@ bring@ build-up cabernet canopies@ casks centre channels chateau cinsault@ cleanskin@ cloud@ colour commonplace@ comprehend@ considerations@ continued convincing cream curiosity@ declined delineate HBAM3016AUG95@ adelaide adelaide hills adelaide plains alice alice springs area` auckland` auckland area` ballarat barossa barossa valley bendigo benson canberra canberra district canterbury central central victorian country clare clare valley coast coonawarra country cowra creek darling district valley south victoria gambier geelong geographe gippsland gisborne glenrowan goulburn goulburn valley grampians granite granite great great southern hastings hastings river hawke'sa hawke's hills hilltops hunter island valley koppamurra langhorne langhorne creek australia island` zealand north island` zealand south islande north` northern northern territory queensland southe south australia tasmania territory victoria western western australia zealand` 00'ee 000-tonne 01'eb lower lower hunter valley macedon margaret margaret river marlborough matakana mclaren mclaren mornington mornington peninsula mount mount benson mount gambier mudgee murray murray darling murray darling nelson northern northern tasmania northland northland matakana orange otago other other wineries other wineries other wineries other wineries ovens ovens valley padthaway pemberton peninsula perth perth hills plains plentyd pyrenees river riverina riverland rutherglen shoalhaven south south coast southern southern tasmania springs sunbury district tasmania tumbarumba upper upper hunter valley valley victoria victorian waiheke waiheke island waikatod waikato plentyd wairarapa wineries yarra yarra valley adelhill adelhill auckland` auckland barossa barossa bendigo bendigo canberra canberra cantburyg cantbury clare clare coonwara coonwara cowra cowra geelong geelong gipps gipps gisborneb gisborne granite granite hastings hastings hawkesa hawkes hilltops hilltops hunter hunter hunter langhorn langhorn macedon macedon margaret margaret marlbf marlb morning morning mudgee mudgee nelsone nelson orange orange otagoh otago padway padway perth perth 01'sg 04's` 08'e` 1000e 1030b 1100c 1140g 1152f 116.8 1170b 1229b 13'sc 1350` 1370` 1380b 1383b 14.7c 1460a 15-kilometre 15.16 15.6h 16'se 16.2b 16.4g 160.33 17.7f 18'eg 18.1` 18.6b 18.8a 1840sg 1843e 1850s 1851a 1857a 1860s 1868e 1870s 1880s 1883c 1890a 1890s` 1892a 1893a 1895a 1896a 19.4b 19.5h 1900s 1902` 1905c 1911a 1913a 1920s 1921b 1925` 1926a 1930sa 1932` 1940sg 1944a 1948e 1949a 1950s 1956b 1960s 1961a 1965b 1970sg 1973f 1974e 1976a 1978c 1979a 1980a 1980sa 1982a 1986g 1987a 1988a 1989b 1990f 1990sb 1994c 1995b 1996` 1997d 1999b 2000-tonne 212.9 246.5 250-hectare 2548f 28'ec 306.5 307.5 31'sa 31.7b 3200-hectare 325-hectare 34'e` 37'eh 37'sg 4.10.0 40'e` 40'sb 40-hectare 400-hectare 400-metre 41-hectared 42'sh 45'eg 47's` 489-hectare 49's` 50'ea 500-hectare 500-tonne 51's` 550-millimetre 57'e` 616.5 630-metre 70-seatd 70-year 71-year-olda 80-hectare 90-metre-long remote region which might better known abandoned abdicatedb aberrational aberrationally aberrations abilities abilityg able` abnormallyh aboriginal aboriginals abortion abound about abovec above-averagee abruptly absence absent absoluteb absolutely absorbh abundanceb abundantf abundant accelerate accelerated accelerating accent accentuates accepth acceptable acceptance accepted access accessible accident acclaim acclaimedb accommodating accommodation accompanied accordedd accordingb accordingly account accounts accumulatedh accumulation accuracy accurate accurately achievea achieved` achievement achievementsf achievesg achievingg achilles acidh acid-retention acidic acidityf acidity acknowledgeb acknowledgedg acknowledging acquire acquireda acquires acquiring acquisitiond acquisitions acquit acree acres acrossd acted acting active activitiesa activity actuallye acumene acute adams adaptation adapting addedg adding` addition additional address addressed addresses addse adelaide adelaide's adequate` adequatelyg adjacent adjuncts adjustment admittedg adopt adopted adopts advanced advantage advantageous advantages advent adventurous adverse advertisement advertiser advicea advocatesc affair affect affectedc affecting affection affects affluence affordingf afield after` after initial prevarication adelaide hills region afternoon afternoons againa against` ageda ageing agency agesf ageworthy aggressive aggressively agnese agreed agreement agricultural agriculture ahead airport akaroag albany albeitc albert alcohol alcorso alexanderc alexandrah alexandrina alike alisterc alivea alkaline alkoomi all-important all-time allandale alleviate alleviates alliedg allocation allowh allowed allowing allows alluviala almost` alone along alongside alphabeticala alphabetically alpine alreadyc alsaceb alsace/germanicc also` altering alternativeg alternatively althoughb altitude altitudes altogether alwaysb amadeusf amalgam amarone amateur ambassadors amberley amelioration amenable american amery amongf amontillado amount` amounts amphitheatre amphitheatres ample anakie ancestry ancient and/ora anderson andrew angas angaston angelo angles angove's angular annie's announced announced announcement announces annual` annually anonymity another` answerc answersc antarctich antcliffe's antecedents anticlimax antipodean anvil anyone anyone's anything anywhere apace aparta apart appalling apparentg apparently appealf appealingly appearh appearance appearing appearsc appellation appetitef appleh apples application applied` applies applying appointed appointment appreciably appreciate appreciated appreciative approacha approached approaches appropriate` approximately apricot april` april/early apsely apsley ararat arbitrary architecture architecture area` areasf arguable arguablyf argue argumentg argus armagh armchair aroma` aromasf aromatic aroundc around arouses arraye arresting arrivalf arrivals arrived` arrives arriving arrowfield arrows arrowtownh arthur arthurs articles artse several regions australia there ascendsc ascertain ascribeh ashbrook ashton aside askedf aspect aspects aspects assert asserting assess assesses asset assisted assisting assists associated` association association's assortment assumeg assuming assumption assured astonishingh astringency astringent times portrayed equivalent atlas atmosphere attack attained attempth attemptede attemptse attendancec attendanta attention attest attesting attests attractedh attracting attractiong attractionsh attractiveg attractively attribute auburn auckland` auckland's` augmented august austere austerity australasiaf australasiana australia` australia'se australia-wide australiana australian australian-grown australians austrian-borne authenticg authorities authority autism autumnf autumnsg availability availablec avant averagea averages` averaging avoca avoid avoided avoids award awarded awardsb awarenessf awateaa awateref awaye awesome azure babicha bachtebelf backc backbone backdrop background backwards backwaters bacterially badly bailey baileys bailiwick baillieu baked balancea balanced` balgownie ballandean ballarat ballarat's ballingal ballinsa balmy balnarring balranald bands bankers banksg banksias bannockburn banquets barely barker barmera barnier baroquef barossa` barossa's barratt barrela barrel barrel-ferment barrels barren barrier barrington barry barry's bartholemewa barwang barwon basalt base` baseda basic basically basin basins basis` bassf battle battleground baume bay'sa beach beaches beacon bearing beaten beautifulc beautifully beautify beautyf becamea becausea beckworth becomea becomes becominga beechworth been` beethamc beetham'sc befallen befits before` began beginning behindb behold beingd belie belied belief believe believed believes bell-clear bellarine below belubula belying benchmark benchmarksb bendat bendigo bends beneficial benefit benefited benefits benfieldc benson benwell bergf bernarda berri berries berrya berry/sweet besta best's best-known best-performing bethany better` better-known between` beverageb bewildering beyond biased bicheno biennial big-bodied biggest billabongs bindi bindoon bingar biologically birch birda birdsf birdwood birth birthplace bisected bitingly bitter bitterly bizarre blacka blackberriese blackberry blackberry/blackcurr blackboy blackboys blackcurrant` blackcurrant/cassis blackened blackwood blampied blanc` blanc-like blanc/semillon blanco blandb blass blastc blazes bleached bleasdale blend` blended` blended blending blendsa blenheimf blessedb blessing blewitt blind blindingly blocka blood-rare bloodwood bloody blossom blowing blows bluestone board boasting boastsc boats bobbie bodied boiled bolab bone-dryg booksh booma boomey boorowa booth booths bordeauxc bordeaux-blend` bordeaux-style bordeauxs border borders boring boroka borrowed bortoli botha bother botrytisb botrytis-affectedb botrytis-influenced botrytisedb bottle` bottled bottlesb bottling bottomf boulder-strewn boulders bound boundaries boundary bounds bountiful bounty bouquet boutique boutiques bowen boynton boynton's bracingh bragatoa bragato'sc brajkovich` brand branded brands brandy brangayne branxton brass brave brawny breads breadth breakg breakfast breaks breath breathed brecht breedc breeding breeze breezes bremer brewera briagolong brian briary brick brick-red bridesmaid bridgewater brief` brigadec bright brightly brilliance brilliantb brindabella bring brings brisbane broade broadacre broader broader-based broadlya broke broke/fordwich broken brokenback brokenwood bronze brook brook/gingin brookfieldsa brookland brother brothers brought broughton brown brown-grey brown/orange browned brownish brownish-coloured brownish-grey browns bruce brunf brunswick brutal bryante bubblef buchholz bucket buckland bud-burst budburst buffalo buffer build` build-up build-up building buildings builtd bunbury bureaucracy burge burgundianc burgundyc burgundy/alsace/germc buring burnhamg burnham/westg burns buronga burra burst bursts busby bushel bushfires bushland businessa businesses businessman businesspeople busselton butlerg butlers butter buttered buttery buttery/peachy buttery/toasty buyers buying by-product by-then bygone cabernet` cabernet cabernet-based cabernet-dominant cabernets` caberra cache cafes cakeg cakes calcareous calendar california californian callatoota calledc cambewarra camec cameo campbells canadoroc canberra cannot canobolas canobolas-smith canopies canopy` canowindra canterburyg canterbury'sg capablec capacities capacitya capel capital capitalise capricious capriotti captain captain joseph gilbert planted first vines pewsey capturef captured carbonet careb careful carefullyc cargo carmody carpets carried carries carroll carry carrying carsons case` cases cashew cashews cashflow caskb cask-age casks casks cassegrain cassis cassis-accented cassis/blackcurrant cassis/red cassis/redcurrant castella castellated castle casual catalyst catalysts catchment categorise category causec causedf causing cautionf cautiousf caveh cd-rom cease ceaseda cedar celebrated celebrec cellarh cellar-doorh cellaring cellarmaster cellars cellierf cement/sand cent` centralg centred centre centredh centuriesc century` century-old ceremony ceres certainc certainlyc certainty cessation cessnock chablis chaffey chaffeys chain chairmana chairman's chalkyg challengec challenger challengese chambersa chambourcin chameleong champagnef champagnes champenoisef championb chancef chandonf change changed changesd changinge channel channels channels chapel chapoutier char-grilled characterb characterised characteristic characteristics characters chardh chardonnay` chardonnaysb chardonnnay charitably charles charlie charm charming charms chase chasselas chastened chateau chateau chateaux-type chatsfield cheapb cheaper cheerfully chemicald chemicallyf cheninb cherriese cherryg cherry/earthy cherry/plum chessa chest chestnut chidlow chief` chiefly` chifney'sc childf chill chilly chinese chips chocolate chocolate-tinged chocolately chocolatey chocolatey/earthy/be choiceh choices chorusf chosenf christchurchg christchurch-baseda christi chromy chronicler chunkier churcha churchill cicante cigar cinerea cinsault circle circuit-breaker circulated circumscribeh circumscribed circumstance circumstances cities citizens citric/grapefruit citrush citrus-tinged cityc claimg claims clamouring clare clarendon clarityf classa classed classes classic` classical classification classified claudio clay` clayey claysc claystone clean cleaner cleanskin clearg cleared clearlye cleveland cliche client clientele clients cliff climate` climates` climatic` climatically cling cliquot clonakilla clonakilla's clonalf clonef clonesf closec closed closely closer closest closetb closing cloud` clouds cloudyf clout clover cloying cluster clustered co-leaderf coalesce coalville coarse coast coastal coastline coating cobboboonee cocktailf coextensive cognac cognisancef coherent coincide coldf colder coldstream colerainea collapsed collards` collected collection collegeg collie colombard colonel colonial coloraturaf colourh colour coloured combatf combattedf combination` combine combined combines combining come` comeback comesa comfortably comingd commencea commencedc commencement commences commencinga commentary comments commerce commerciala commerciallyg commissioned committee committee's commodity commonb commonest commonly commonly-accepted commonplace commonsense commonwealth community compact companies companya comparable comparatively comparedf compares comparison comparisons compelling` compensateb compensating compensation compete competent competing competition competitivef competitorsf compilationh complements completed completely complex` complexity` compliantly complicated component` components compounded comprehend comprehensivelyh compromise compromisingh conceivable` conceived concentratec concentratedd concentrating concentrationg concept concern concerned` concerted concerts concluded conclusion conclusively conditionsa conduciveb confidence configured confines` confirmationf confirms conflict confrontsf confuse confused confusing confusingly confusiong conjecture connecting conscious consciousness consequence consequent considerabled considerably consideration considerations consideredf considering consist consistency consistenta consistently consists conspicuous conspicuously conspired constant constantlye constitutes constructed constructing construction consultant consultants consulting consumeda consumers consumption containers containing contemporary content context` conti continent continental continentalityh continuation continue` continued continued continuesd continuing` continuous contour contract contract-made contract-winemaking contract-winery contracted contracting contraction contracts contraryc contrary accounts vineyards exist morning contrast contributed` contributes contributing contributiona contributorf contributors control controlledb controls conventionald converge conversation conversely convertede converting conveyed convinced convincingg convincing convincingly convoluted cookc coolf cool-climatef cool-grown coolangatta coolerb coolest cooling coombend coonawarraf coonawarra's coonawarra's pre-eminent position australia's greatest cooperc cooperation coopersa cope-williams coping copper corban` corbansa coriole corner coromandel corporatea correct corresponding corresponds costellos costs cottagea cottages couldb counsel` counteractc counterbalance counterbalancing countered counterparts countervailing countless countryb country's` countryside coupled courage courseb courses court cover` covered covering coversh cowan cowell cowell's cowra cracking craft craftse craigie craiglee craigmoor craigow crappsley crash crawford crayfishing creamg cream creamy creamy/nutty/mealye createf createdg createsh creating creations credentialled credibilityf credit creditable creeka creeks cricket crisis crispf crispness criss-cross critical cromwellh cropc croppedb cropping crops` croser cross cross-cutg cross-hatch cross-regional crown crucial cruelf cruickshank crush` crushing crushing/dejuicingd crystallinef csiro cuisine cullen culminating cultural culture cultures cumquat curiosity curious curiouslyh currency currenta curve custom customarilyb cuttinga cuttings cuveef cyclical cycloneb cyclones cyclonic` cygnet cyril d'angludet d'arenberg dailyc dairying daiwa dalmatia dalmatians` dalwhinnie dalwood dalyup danger dangerousd dargo daring darkh darling darling's darlington daryl dates dating daughters davidf daybreak days` daytimeh daytrippers dealh dearth death debate decade decades decemberh decent deceptive deceptivelyf decidedb decidedly deciding decimateh decision decisions declared decline` declined` declined declining decomposed decreaseb decreased decreed dedicated dedication deepc deeper deeply defender defies definable define definede definitely definitiong defoliation degree` degrees delamerec delamore delatite delay delayed delegat'sa deliberately delicacyf delicate delicatelyh delimit delineate delineate delineatedc delta deluxe demandb demanding demands` demise demographic demondrille demonstrateg demonstrated` demonstrates demonstrationg denbarker denied denigratef deniliquin denman denmark denominatore dense densely denser denying departmentc dependg depended dependenta depending depleted deposited deposits deppler depression depressions deprived depth depths derekc derision derisory derived derives deriving derwent lower@ 1710@ abundant acidity adequate@ amontillado@ announced apart architecture around aspects attention@ australian barrel bearing@ befits@ blended bragato's@ bring@ build-up cabernet canopies@ casks centre channels chateau cinsault@ cleanskin@ cloud@ colour commonplace@ comprehend@ considerations@ continued convincing cream curiosity@ declined delineate derwent descend descendants descending descends describeh describeda describes description descriptors desert deserted deservedly deservesf deserving design designated designedg desirable desireda despeissis despite dessert destination destinedd destroy destroyed detached detail detailed deter determination determine determined` determiningf deterrent deutzf develop developed developing development` derwent development direction dissimilar-looking@ divine@ dookuna@ drawn during earthy/tarry/leather@ efficient elsewhere endless environment@ establishment standards australia large region excel@ expanding@ extent farmer@ fertility@ fines@ flavoured@ foresee@ friedrickb fruit-driven@ future generousa given grape great group guarantee@ hallmarks@ harvest having heavy hollick hours hunter asked capture essence zealand there imperceptibly@ incredibly influence insurance@ intertwined irrigated@ development developments develops devil's devoted diamond dichotomy dicka dictates dictum diedb differc differenceb differences different` differentialf differentiatedc differentiation differing` difficulta difficulties difficulty diffult dilute diluted dilutionb dimensiong dimensions diminishedb diminishes diminishing dinner diputes direct directed direction direction directlyc disadvantages disagreement disappear disappearance disappeared disappearing disappears disappoint disappointment disbelief discern discerning discipline disciplined disconcertingly discontinued discovered discovery discuss discussed` discussing discussion discussions disease disease-free diseases disinterested dismiss disorient disparate dispersalf display displayed displeases disposal disproportionate dispute disputes disrepair disrupted` dissected dissimilar dissimilar-looking dissolution distance distances distantg distantly distiction distilled distinctg distinctionf distinctiveg distinctively distinctiveness distinctlyc distinguished` distressinglyb distributed distributionf districta district'sa districts` diurnal diverse diversification diversityf divert diverting divide dividing divinef divisions dixons do-it-yourself doctorates doctors-cum-winemake doesa doldrums dollar dollars dolomite domainef domaine-bottled domestic domestically domiciled` dominance dominantc dominateg dominateda dominates dominique donef donnelly donnybrook dookuna doomed doonkuna doorf doors dormancy dorrien dotted double doubled doubt` doubtless doughtyf douglas douro downa downright downscale downy dr2.21 dr2.22 dr2.23 dr2.33 dr2.62 drainage` drainedf draining dramatic dramatically drank draw` drawbacks drawcard drawingb drawn drawn draws draytons dream drierc dries driest drink drinkability drinkers dripa drivable drivee drivenf driver drives driving dromana droughtc droughts drove drumborg drums drying dryland dsirc dulcinea dulyf dunes duplex duplicity durif duringa during dwarf dwindled dy3.21 dy3.22 dy3.41 dy3.43 dy3.61 dy5.42 dy5.81 dyinga dynamism dynasty` eagerly earliere earlier-ripeningf earliestg early` early-maturing early-ripeningc earnest earnings earth earths earthy earthy/chocolatey earthy/gravelly earthy/tarry/leather easiere easilyb easte east-flowing easterc easterly eastern easyf echoes echuca eclipseda economic` economical economically economics economy edelstone edena edgar edgea edgesf edition education edwards eerily effectc effective effectively effectsh efficiency efficient efficient effluent effortc efforts` eight eighty-five eildon either elderg elect electedc elegance` elegantf elementsh elevated elevation` elevations elgee eliminate eliminating elixir ellisa elmhurst elsef elsewhere` elsewhere elusive emanating embraced embraces emerge emerged emergencef emergency emerges emergingf emigration emilion eminent emphasisa emphasise emphasised emphatic emphatically empirea employing employs emulate encapsulated encapsulates enclave encompass encompasses encountered encountersb encouraged encouragement encourages encouraging end-use endeavour endeavoureda ended endless endless endorsementc endowed enduring energetic energy engenders engine-room england english english-based english-borng englishman englishmen enjoya enjoyable enjoyed` enjoying enormousf enormously enough` ensay ensuingh ensure ensured ensures enter enteredd enterprisee enterprises enters entertain enthralling enthusiasm enthusiast enthusiastic enthusiasts entire entirely` entitled entranced entryf envelopeb enviously environment envisaged epicentre epithet equalc equallye equipment equivalent eradication erection erratic erratically error erupted escape escarpment eschenbruchh especially essencef essentialc essentially esslin establishc establisheda establishingc establishment establishment estate` estate's estatesd estimated estuary etched eternally ethnic ethnically eucalypt eucalypt-to-peppermi eucalypt/mint eucalypt/peppermint eucalypts euchareena eulogy europe europeana eurunderee euston eutypa evans evaporation even` standards australia large region evenings evenly event eventsf eventuallya evera ever-changinge ever-close ever-expanding ever-flexible ever-increasing ever-likely ever-shrinking ever-variedh evergreen everton every` everything everywhereb evidence evident evocative evoking evolved ex-evans ex-servicemen exacerbate` exacerbated exacerbates exacerbating exactly exampleb examples` exceed exceeded exceedingly excel excellence excellenta excelsb excemplifies exceptd excepted exception exceptional` exceptionallyh exceptions excess excessive` excessivelyf excised excitingd exclusion exclusive exclusivelyb exclusivity exemplified exemplify exercise exerts exhausted exhaustion exhibit exhibition exhibits exist existed existence existing existsa exotic exotics expand expanded expanding expanses expansiona expansive expect` expectations expectedg expensivef experience experienced experiencingh experiment experimental experimentally experimentationg expertise experts explaind explains explanation explosion explosivelyd exponents export exported exports exposedc exposuref express expressed expression exquisiteh extend extended extending extends extension extensive extent extent external extrac extractg extracting extractivelyb extraordinarily extraordinary extremef extremelyf extremities extremity eyesore eyton-on-yarra fableda fabric faceh faced facie facile facilitate facilitates facilitating facilities facilitya facing factb factorf factors facts faded failc failedf failing failure` faintd faintlyh fairfield fairlya faithd fallf fallenc fallinga falls` false familiara families family` famous` fanaticsf fanciful fancourt fancyc far-flungd farmh farmer farmers farming fascinating fashion` fashionable fastf fasterg fastestg fatef fateful faultf fauna favourc favourable favourably favouredf favourite feasible feasts feature february` federation feeling feisty felix fellers fellow fellowship feminine fencec fenton ferguson fergusson fermentationh fermenteda fermenters fernhill ferry fertileb fertilitya fervour festival fever regions world attracted attenti fewer fiaschi fiddle field fields` fiercelye fifteen fightg figureh figuresa filled fimmel finala finallyh financed financiala financially findd finding finds` finef fine-grained finely` finer finesf finessec finesta finishc finishing finn'se firmly first` first-class first-time fisherman fishingh fittinga fittingly fiveh fixed flabby flag-bearersg flagbearer flagons flagshipg flame flanagan's flanked flashf flatf flatsb flatterers flavour` flavouredc flavourless flavoursa flavoursome flaxmans fledged fleet fleshiere fleshy fleurieu flexibleb flight flights flinty flirted flock flood flooding floor floorsh flora floralf florance flourish flourished flourishes flourishinge flower floweringh flowers flowery flowing flows fluctuatedg fluctuation fluctuations flurry flush flying focus focused focusing foldede folding followc followeda followinga follows folly foolhardy foolish foothills foothold footsteps forbidding force forces foremostb forerunner foresawh foresee forest forestalled forests forged forget forgiving forgottenf formal formally formationf formations formby formed formerd formerly formidable forming forms formula forth fortifieda fortifieds fortuitously fortunately fortune` fortunes forty forward forwards fostered found` foundations foundeda founder founders founding` fourg four-storey fourthg fractione fragments fragrantb frame framed framework framinghamf franc` francec france's franchise francis francois frankf frankland frantic freak freakish frederick free-drainingc freedom freehold frencha french-descended frenchman frenetic frequency frequent frequentlyc fresh fresnee freycinet friable friedrick friedrickb friend friendly frigid frimleya fringe fringes from` negligible century auckland frommf frontc frontignan frostc frostsf frothf fruit` fruit-driven fruit/nectarine/citr fruitier fruitily fruitsa fruits/lime fruity frustratingly fuelb fuelled fulfil fulla full-blooded full-blown full-bodied full-flavouredg full-on full-scale full-time fullera fuller-bodied fullness fullye function functional fundamental funded fungal furthere furthestf futile futuref future futuristic fyansford gained gaining gains galaxyc galesc galvanised gamay gambier gambier's gambling gamea gamey/foresty gamut garde garden gardening gardensc gardiner gargantuanb garrett gases gatheringb gauge gauntletg gaveg gc1.22 geared geelong generalh generalisation generalisations generaliseg generally` generated generates generations generic generosity generous` generousa generously genetic gentleg gently genuine genuinely geoff geographe geographicg geographical geographically geography geological geologically george german germans gewurtztraminerb gewurztraminerb gewurztraminersb ghiran giaconda giant giants gibbstonh giesenf gilbert gilberts gilgai gingin gingin/moondah gippsland gironde gisborne` gisborne'sb givena given gives giving gladstonec gladstones glamorous glamour glass glazebrooka glenara glenlofty glenmarkg glenrowan glenvalea glimpse glistening gloriousf gloriously glory gn1.13 gn2.13 gn2.15 gnangara gnarled gneissic goesf going goldc fever reached central victoria golden goldwater` gomersal good` goodall gooloogong goona goondiwindi gooramadda gooseberry gooseberry/tropical gordo gorge goulburn goundrey government government-ordered governor gracef graceful gracefully gradients gradual gradually graduated grafting graham's grain grains gramp grampian grampians grand grandest grange granite granite-derived granitic granodiorite grant granted grape` grape grapefruit grapefruit-accented grapegrowers grapes` grapes provided potent blend which drove grapevinesb grasp grass grasses grassy grassy/herbal gravelf gravellyc gravelsc graves graytown grazier graziers grazingf great` great greater` greatesta greatlyb greena greenhouse greening greenmeadowsa greenoch greenshields grenache grew` greyh grey-black grey-brown greyer greyish griffith grilli grisc gritty gritty/grainy gritty/gravelly grosset ground groupd group grouped groupingb groupsg grovef grover groves grow` grower growersd growing` grown` grows growth` grudgingly guaranteea guaranteed guaranteeing guess guestsd guildford guises gulgong gully gumeracha gunsa gurdies gypsum habit habitat habitation hahndorf hainault half` halfway hallmark hallmarks halls halveb hamburge hamlets hamper handg handfulf handled handling hands handsome handsomely` hanging happeneda happensb happily happyd harbinger harbingers harbour harcourt hard` harden hardened harderf hardlyh hardness hardwoods hardy hardys harmonious harold harrier` harris harvest` harvest harvesting harvey haselgrove hasn't hastingsa hauntingf hauntingly hauraki have` havelocka havingc having havoch hawke's` hayesh hazarda hazardous head-hunted headedf heading headlines headquartered heads heady healesville health healthy heard heart heat` heath heathcote heather heaviera heavilyb heavy heavy heavy-handed hectareb hectareage hectares` hectic heemskerk heemskerk's heggies heidsieck heighth heights helen helenag helicoptersf helme helm's helpg helped helpingg helps henceb henderson` henley henrya henschke henschke's heralded herbaceousg herbaceous/capsicum` herbal herbal/grassy herbal/grassy/minty herbs here` heritage hermanne hermitage heroes heroic heron's hesitated hiatus hides high` high-altitude high-classf high-pricedb high-quality high-stakes high-yielding higherb highest highlands highly` highway highways hille hill's hill-smith hillsc hillside hillsidesa hilltops hilly hindsight hinge hints hippies historian historic historical historya hitherto hobart hoddles holding holdingsd holds holiday hollick hollick hollywood holmes homed homes homestead homme homogeneity homogenous honest honey honeyed honeyed/honeysuckle honeyed/toasty honeysuckle honour hooper hopefully hopelessly hoping horizon horizontally horndale horne horrocks horseshoe horticultureg hoskins hostf hoteld hotel-cum-conferenced hotels hotham hothouse hotterh houghton houghton's hour's hours` hours house housedd household housesc housing howard however` huangaruac huapai` hubert huberts human humans humble humid humidity` humilityg humphery-smith humus hundred hundreds hungerford hunter` hunter huntersf huntington hurdles hurtle hyattd hybride hybridsa information available region icing ideaf idealc ideallya identical identification identifiedc identify identities identity idiosyncratic` idyll asked capture essence zealand there coonawarra quite anywhere padthaway region belied pyrenees anyone vignerons ovens valley region their sydney lower hunter valley running gentle southeast ignited ignore ignored ilford illness illusion illustrates illustrious image imaginable imagination imagineh imagined immaculately` immediate immediately` immense immensely immigrants immigration imminent impactb impacting impactsh impaired impassable impeccablec impedesa impedimentg imperatives imperceptibly impermeable impervious impetusc implemented implications importance` important` importantly imported impose imposes imposingc impossiblef impregnated impression impressivec impressivelya improbability improbable improbably improved improvementf improving first grapes planted granite observed suggest frenchman macedo hardy showed there solution problem inaccessible inadequate inches incidence incidentally incline include included includes includingb inclusion inconsistentf incorporated incorporating incorporation incorrect increase` increased` increases increasingc increasinglya incredibly incredibly indeed` independentd independently indeterminate index indian indicateh indicated indicates indication indications indirectly indistinct individual` individuality individually induce induced inducesd inducing industrialc industry` industry's inefficient inevitable inevitably inexorable inexpensiveb inexplicably inextricablyf inferior infertilea influence` influence influenced influences influx information infrastructure infrequently ingenuity ingredients inhabit inhabitants inherent inheritance inhibith inhibiting initialf initiallyb initially known central highlands orange region initiated initiatives injury inland innovative inputc inputs inroadsg insatiablef insecurely inside insignificant inspirationf inspired` installation installed instance instancesf instant instead institutea instrumental insufficient insufficiently insult insuperablec insurance intact integrated intelligence intended intending intenseb intensely intensified intensify intensifying intensitya intensive intention intentions intents interaction interception interestg interested interestingc interestingly interests interfere interfering interim interior intermediate intermingling intermittent intermittentlyc intermixed internationalc internationallyf interplay interpretations interregnum interrupted interspersed intertwined intertwined intervene intervening intervention interwoven intimacy intimate intoa intoxicatedf intrepid intriguing intriguingly introduce introduced introducing introduction intrude intrusion intrusions invaders invariably inverell inversion invest invested investing investment investments investor investorsf involved involvement involving irongatea ironicallyc ironstone irrawang irregularf irrigate irrigated irrigating irrigationa irvine irymple island` island's isn't isolated isolation israeli issueg always struck commentary unreality imagine region which could comprehensivh unlikely wairarapa which various times major surprise readers italian italian-born italy itselfh jacksonf jacobs jaffa jamesb jammy jansz january` january japanesed japanese-owned jasper jealous jealousy jeanette jeffrey jelich` jerrys jinks johann johnstone joinedf joining joins jointd jointly jones jordan joseph joseph's judgeh judged judges judicious judye juggernaut juice juicy jumpd junction juneg juryh just` january lands lease@ lesser likely litres location major manjimup@ market-oriented@ maturity means mercifully mid-1870s minerally@ montrose@ motley much-hyped necessary zealand country blessed abundance rainfa@ northeast victoria understand concept notwithstanding obscurity@ once@ opens@ order overlying@ paradoxically@ partner performed@ phenomenon@ pipeline plate@ populated precariously prevails@ problem producesb proliferation@ proverbial@ purpose-designed@ quick-developing@ range justifiably justified justify kairangac kaitaia kaleidoscopice kangaroo karadoc karri karrivale karriview katnook katunga kauri` kauwhatad kawarauh keenly keepa keeping kelly keppoch kepta keyneton keynotee kiewa killerby kilometrese kinds kingdom kings kingston kinnaird kinzbrunner kitch knappstein knappstein's knee-jerk knight knowe knowe knowledge knowledgeable knowna kofoed's kojonup koombahla koppamurra kosovich kuitpo kumeu` kumeu/huapai` kurtz kyeema kyneton labela labelled labelsb labour laboured lachlan lachryma lackg lacking lacksa laid` lakeh lake's lakes lamont lancefield landf land-holder landede landfallb landholders landmarkd landownera landragin lands lands landscapee landscapes landscaping lange langhorne langhorne creek fascinating least langi lapsed largeb large-scale largely largerb largesta larose laser-directed laser-flat lashingsa lastc last-minute lasted lasting lastly latea late-harvestd late-harvestedb late-ripening late-seasond laterh later-ripening lateral laterallyf lateritic latest latitudeh latitudes latrobe latterb latter-day launceston launched lawsons lawyer layerc layered leaching leada leaders` leadinga leads leafy leafy/cedary/cigar leafy/mulberry lean-to leaps learned learning learnt lease leased leasehold leasingham leasta least-known leave leavesf leavingb lebanese` leconfield leeton leeuwin left` legacies legacy legal legend legendary legislation lehmann leigh leland lemon-accented lemony/herbaceous lends lengthc lengthens lenswood less` lesser` lesser lessons there doubt about hopelessly biased letters levelc levelsh levigny lewis liable liberally licensed` liderf liesb life-giving life-style lifeblood lifestyle lifted lifting ligher lighte light-bodied light-coloured lighter lighter-bodied lightly lightness lightning lights liked likelihood likelyg likely likens likewisea lilliputian lilydale limef lime-accentedg limestoneg limestone-based limestone-derived limey liming limit limitationc limitations limitedb limitingf limitless limits lincolng lindauerf lindeman lindemans lindsay linef lines linger lingering linkedf lintzc lion's liquorice liquorland literally litresb litres littlea liveda lively livinga loads loam` loamsa loamy local` localised locality locallyd locally-grown` locally-sourced located location` location locations loessg lofty logic` logical loire london long` long-livede long-termc longere longer-established` longesta longest-established longevity` longview looked looking looks losing lossc losses louis lovelyb low-cost low-yielding lower` lower-priced lower-than-expected lowest loxton lubiana's lucky luminous lumped lunch lunchedc lunchtime lusciousa lusha lustre lutheran luxuriant luxurious luxury lycheeb lying lyndoch lyrup macedon mackereth mackey maclean macrae made` madeira maestrog maffra maffra-bairnsdale maggie magic magically maglieri magnificence magnificent magnificently magnified magnifiesh magnumf magpie maing mainland mainlyg maintainedh maintaining maintenance mair's majella major` major majorityg makea maker makersa makes` makeup makinga malbec mallacoota malolactic` maltby manage managed management` managera managing manifest` manifestation manipulation manjimup manner manning mansions manufacturing manyb mapping maragle marananga marbey march` margaret margin marginalb mariaa mariner marion's maritime maritime-influenced markb markeda markedlyf marketf market-oriented marketed marketing markets marking marks markwood marlborough` marlborough'se marlborough-grown marri marriage marron marsanne marsden marshall martin martin's martinborough` martinborough/wairara martindale marvellous marvellously marya masquerading masse massive` mastertonc mataa mata'sa matakana matawherob match` matched matchesd matching material matrix matter matua` maturation mature matured matures maturing maturity maturity maurice maxima maximise maximising maximum mcalister mccallumc mccaughey mcdonalda mcguigan mclaren mcleoda mcwilliam mcwilliam'sa mcwilliams mcwilliiam's meadow meadowbank meagref meals mean` meanderingf meanders meaneea means` means meant meantimea measured measured measures mecca mechanisation medalc medals medicinal mediocrity mediterranean mediterranean-mariti medium medium-bodied medium-quality medium-term medoc meeth meeting megalitre melange melbourne melbourne's mellars melon melon/citrus/fig melon/fig/white melted meltinglyc melton members memorable memorial memories memorya mendozaf mentelle mention merbein mercifully mercifully mere` merge merges merging merite meritable merits merlenf merlot` merlot-dominanta merlot/cabernet merlot/shirazc merlots merriang merricks merriwa mesoclimate mesoclimatesh mesoclimaticf messages messiah metala methodh methodef methodist methods metre metres meunier meunierea meyersg michael` michelini micro-sizedh mid-1860s mid-1870s mid-1870s mid-1950s mid-1960s mid-1970s mid-1980s mid-1988 mid-1990s mid-aprilg mid-february mid-january mid-marcha mid-maye mid-palate mid-priced mid-summer mid-weight mid/late middle midsummer might` migrated` milawa mildara mildew mildews mildly mildura militate militatede millf milleniumc millennium millers milliond millionsb millsd milltonb milnec minec mineral minerally minerally/chalkyh minerals miners mini-vistas minimald minimise minimised minimum mining minister minor mint/green mintaro mintiness minty minuscule minutello minutello's minutes miracles miraculously mirage miramar miranda mirco-scale mirrors miscellany miserable misleading misnomer misread missiona missionariesa mistakenf mists misty mitchell mitchelton mitchelton's mixed mixture mockeryh moderatea moderatelyb moderates moderating modern modern-day modesta modestly modifiedh moist moisture mokoan molar molloy` molong moment momentarily momentum monash mondeuse moneyc monitoring monopoly monotonously monotony montanaa montana'sb montara month month's monthly monthsa montrose monty moonambel moondah moonta moorabool moorilla moorok moorooduc more` more-than-adequated moreover morey morgan morning mornington morphett morris mortona mosaic most` mostly motels motives motley motley mottled mould mountg mountadam mountain mountainoush mountainsc mountainsidesh mountview mourvedre moutha mouthfeel mouthfillinge movede moves movie movinge moyhu much` much-gold much-hyped much-hyped mudgee mudgee hills aboriginals mudgee's mulberry mullera mullett multi-blends multi-purpose multi-region multi-regional multi-trophy multiblend multinationals multipleb multitudec mundaringa murdock murray murrindindi murrumbateman murrumbidgee murtaghs murtho muscadelle muscata muscats muscle museum music musical mustg muswellbrook mutually myriad myrrhee myrtleford mysterious nagambie nails nairn namea named namesg naming nangiloc napad napiera napoleon nar-darak naracoorte narkoojee narrowe nascent nation'sc national` nationally native natural naturaliste naturally naturea nautilusf navigate nearg near-perfect nearbyg nearest nearlyb neatly necessarilya necessary necessary necessitate necessitatesf necessitating necessity nectarine needa needed` needing needless needsh negligible` negotiations neighboure neighbours neilc neitherb nelsone nelson kilometres marlborough separatee nepenthe nesbit` neudorfe neutral nevere zealand country blessed abundance rainfab zealand's first vines planted northland samue newcomer` newell newer newest newlyd newspaper next` ngatarawaa nicholson nighth night-timeh nightmare nights nineteenth nineteenth-centurya ninety nobilo` noble noir` noirs nominald non-cracking non-existent non-productivity non-regional non-residentf non-saline non-vintage none` nonethelessb normal` normally normans northa north-east north-facinga northeast northeast victoria understand concept northeast-facing northeasterly northeastern northerly northern northernmost northlandd northland's northwest northwesterlyc northwestern notable notablyh noted notes nothing notice noticeably noticed noticing notley notwithstandinga notwithstanding novag november nowadays nowhere nowra nuances nucleus number` numbered numbers numerousd nuriootpa nutrients nuttyh nutty/cashew/hessian o'callaghan o'shea oakedg oakridge oasis obdurately object obligatoryg obscuredf obscurity observation observed observer observes obsidian obtainf obtainedb obvious` obviously occasion occasionale occasionally occasions occupant occupation occupations occupied occupies occurh occurredh occurring occurs ocean oceans octobera oeillade offer` offered offeringg offeringsf offersf officers official officially offsetg oftenc okahu older oldest olive oloroso omens omihig omnipresent on-shore oncea improbably configured region stretching kilometr ondenc one's onlya onset onside onslaught ontoc onwards openedf opening opensc operate operated operates operating operation operational operations operator ophir opinion opinionsc opoub opportunities opportunityf opposed opposite opposition oppression optimala optimising optimism optimum opting optional opulenced opulentc opulently opusf orange orange-based orchard orchardsa ordere order ordered ordie-back ordinary ordovician organisation organised organolepticallyf orientation oriented originb original originallye orlando orlando's ormondb orsinis osicka otagoe otakad other` othersc otherwisef ousteda out-hunter outcome outcrop outer outlets outline output outrageous outrankedf outset outshone outsideb outskirtsd outstanding` outstrip outwardsc ovens over` overallc overblowna overcomef overemphasised overhead overlap overlay overlaying overliea overlies overly` overlyingb overnight overridden overripeh overseas overshadowed overtaken overtakingg overtones overwhelminglye owesc owing owneda owner ownersd ownershipa owning ownsd oxley paceb pacesettere pacific packa packagesb paddock padthaway pages paidc painful paired palate paler palliserc palmer palomino` palpable pankhurst papakura` paper paracombe paradise paradox paradoxes paradoxically paralleling` parallels paramount parcel parched pardelup parenta parents paringa paris parker parklands parliamentarian parochial parta part-owner part-time partial partiallya participate particularc particularly` partly` partnerc partner partnership parts` party paska passed passingb passion passionfruit passionfruit/tropica pastd pastorala patches` patchwork patented patience pattern patternsf pattersons patutahib pause peaceful peach peach/melon/fig peach/tropical peaches peachy peachy/buttery peake peaking peaks pears pearses peaty peculiarly pedulum pegasusg pelorusf pemberton penchant penetration penfolds peninsulag peninsula's peninsulas penley pennington pennyweight people pepper pepper/spice peppery/spicy perceivedf perceiving percentage percentagesb perceptionh perceptions perchedh perennial perfectb perfectlyc performg performance performed performsb perfumedh perhaps` perilously perimeter periodh periodic periods permanent permeable permeated permita permits permitted permutations perpetuatedb persevered persevering persist persisted persistent persists person personal personalities personality perspective perth perth-based perverse petalsb petaluma petaluma's peter petit petits petrol pewsey pharmacist phase phased phenomenal phenomenonh philip phillip philosophiesc philosophy phone photographed photographsh phylloxera physical physiographic physiological physiologically picardy piccadilly pickedf picking picnic picturesqueh piece pieces piercing piercinglyb pierlot pierro piesse pigeon pigeonhole pilgrims pilloud pinned pinney pinot` pinotsc pinpointed pioneer` pioneered pioneering pioneersc pipeline pipeline piper pipers piping pirie pirramimma pizzini placee placed placement places` placing plaing plainsa planeh planning plans planta plantagenet planted` plantinga plantings` plants plate plateau plateaux playf played player playersb playground playing plays pleasant` pleasantly please pleased plentiful plentyd plethora plucking plumg plums plungeda plunging plunkett podzolic point` pointedf pointinga points poised pokolbin policy polish political politician politicians politinis pomerol ponds poorer popular popularityf populated populated population populous porongurup porongurups porous portion portions portrayed portree ports portugal posef posed posese position positive possess possesses possibility possible` possibly post-second postware potentf potentialh potentially potterye potts powdery powerf powerful practical practice practices practised pragmatic praised pratten pre-eminence pre-eminent pre-eminentlya pre-existingf precariouslyh precariously preceded precedingh precious precipitous precise precisely precision precocious` predictf predictable predictably predictedh predominante predominantly predominate prefer preferred prehistoric prejudice premature prematurely premiera premiuma premium-quality prepared preponderance prerequisites presencec present present-dayf presented presentlyc presents preserve preserved preside press pressure` pressures` prestige prestigious presumably pretty prevail prevailing prevails prevarication prevent preventative prevented previousg previously price priced pricesf pride prima primarily primary primeh primo prince principal` principallyf print prior prison prisoner pristinef privateb prized probability probable probablyc problemc problem problems` proceedings processh processed processes processing prodigiousb produce` produced` producera producersa produces` producesb producinga product production` productionsf products professional professionals professor professorsf profile profit profligacy profoundly profusion programme programmes progressf progressive progressivelya prohibited prohibitionistsc project projectedb projectionsh proliferation prolifically prolonged prominence prominent promise promising promote promoted promoter promotes promoting prompted` promptly prone pronounced propagated propagation propensity proper properly properties propertyf prophets propitious proportions propose proposed propositions proprietary proprietor'sa prospectsf prosperityf protect protected protection proud proudly prove` proved` proverbial proves provideb providedc providence providesc providing` province provocatively proximate proximityc prune prunes pruning pseudo-scottish psyche public publication publicity published puglisi pulled pulls pumped-up punch punches punctuated pungencyf pungent purbrick purchase purchasedd purchaser purchasers purchasing purea purely purple purple-red purpose purpose-builte purpose-designed purposes purse pushc pushed` puttingg puzzle pyrenees qualco qualifications qualified qualities quality` quantitiese quantitya quarter quartz quartzose queanbeyan queen's` queensland queensland's queenstownh quelltaler quest questionb questionable questionsc queue quick quick-developing quickly quiet quietly quilt quintessentially quirks quirky quiteb quixotic racecourse radiologist rain` rainerh rainfall` rains raised raising raisins ramco rammed-earth rancio rangec range rangese rangic rangi'sc rangingf ranksf rapidf rapidlyc rareh rarely rarerf raspberryg rateb ratedc rates rathbone rather` rationale ratios rattrayg razorg razor'sd re-establisheda re-introduced re-radiateh reachc reachedb reaches reaching reaction readers readily ready ready-for-sale ready-made realb realisation realisea realised realistic realityh reallyg reaper reasona reasonablef reasonably reasons` rebirth receive receives receiving recentf recently` recession recognisable` recognise recognised` recognising recognition record recorded recording recordsc recountedg recovery rectangle ready@ regaining@ regularly remained@ requirement result richest@ rodney@ sandy scale@ season seldom seresin@ showf silesian@ soar@ sole@ south specialist@ spread@ started stewed@ stretching@ style subsequentf summer supplea swamp@ taken@ technically@ tendency thanks clare valley occupies special place heart those thurgau-based@ toast@ total traminer trust-classified@ unconditional@ unfairly until uses@ variation various victoria vines violet vogue@ warmer red-brown red-brown-yellow redbank redbank's redcliffed redcliffe'sd redcliffs redcurrant` redesdale redevelopment rediscovered redman redman's redolentb redsd reduce reduced reduces reducing reedy reefd reference referred refineda refinement refinery reflect reflected reflecting reflection reflectsc regaining regard regardedb regardlessf regeneration regime region` region'sg regionald regionally regionsd registerg registeredh registration regret regularb regularity regularlyc regularly rehabilitated reichensteinerb reign reinforces rekindledg relais related relatesf relationship relative` relativelya relatives releasef released releases releasing relentless relevant reliability reliable` reliance reliantb relief reliesd relinquishh relished relitively reluctant relyd relying` remainc remainder remainede remaining remains` remarkableb remarkably remember remembered` reminiscent remnants remorselessly remote remoteness removeda removing renaissancec renamed renaming renmano renmark renowned repay repays repeat repeated repeating repertoireg replaced replacement replacingf replanted` replanting reportc reported reports represent represented representsg reputationa reputedly requestedf require required requirementf requirement requirements requires requisitec researchc resembling reservea reserved reserves residentb residents residualb resilience resistant resolute resolution resolved resource resources respect respectable respectiveg respond responding responds responsef responsibility responsible restaurantd restaurants restore restrained restrict restricted restricting restsa resultf result resultantb resulted resulting resultsb resurgence retail retailers retain retained retaining retainsh retention retirees retreat retrospect retrospectively return returned returns reveals revereda reverseh reversed revert revingtonb revival revived reward rewards reworking reynell reynella reynolds rezoned rheimsg rhetoricc rhine rhone rhone-style ricca richa richard` richera richeste richfield richly richmonde richnessg riddoch riddoch's ridgeh ridges rieslinga rieslingsg right` rights riotously ripeg ripen ripened ripenerh ripenessc ripeninga ripens ripped ripponh rise` risen rises rising riska river` river'sc riverina riverlandb riverlands riversf rivulets roada roadse roasted robardg roberta roberts robertson robinson robinson-inspired robinsons robinvale robust rochecombe rochford rochlitz rockh rockierh rocks rockyg rococo rodney role` rolling romaville romeoa ronald rongopaid roots rooty roseb rosehill rosemount rosemount's rosewhite rosewood roseworthy rossa rossetto rothbury rotherhythe rothesay` rouge roughlyh roundh rounded rounder roussane roussanne route routes row-orientation rowland roxburgh royalc rubye ruckf run-off runningf rushing rustic rusticity rutherglen ruthlesslyc ryecroft rymill saferd saidc saints salad salamis sales salinger salinity salitage sally's saltbush saltram salty same` samuel sandalford sandalwood sandierh sandihurstg sands sandstone sandstone-based sandy` sandy sappy/briary/herbace sappy/herbaceous sappy/strawberry/plu satisfactorily satisfactory satisfy satisfying satisfyingly saturday saucer-like sausages sauternes-style sauvignon` sauvignon/blends sauvignon/franc/merl sauvignon/merlot sauvignon/merlot/cab sauvignonse savageh savagery savingf saying scale scaling scarp scattered scattering scene sceneryh scenesb scenic scenically scented schank scheme schemes schisth schists schizophrenic school schubert schwarzenegger scientificc scientistc scone scope scotchmans scotsdale screen scrub scrubby scrutinised sculpted` seabed seabrook sealed searinglyd seaside season` season seasonal seasons seaview secession seconde secondary secondly secret secretsb sections sector security seduced seductive seeing seeking` seemf seemed seeming seeminglyf seems` seenf sefton seftons seibele seifriede selaksf seldom seldom select selected selectiona self-effacing self-evidentlya self-mulching sella selling sells semi-premium semillonb semillon's semillons senior sensea sensible sensing sensitive sensitivity sensual separated separatede separation seppelt seppelt's seppeltsfield septemberf seresinf series serious seriously serpentine served serves service services setsc settingh settled settlement settler settlersg settling seven sevenhill several severe severely seville sewerage seymour shades shadowg shadowy shady shafts shake shale shall shallow` shannon shape shapedf shaping share shared shareholders shareholding sharesc sharpg sharply shearing sheds sheep sheerb sheltered shelves shepparton sherries sherry sherwoodg shiftf shiftsf shimmering shimmers shine shirazc shirazes shires shoalhaven shopfronts shops shorelinee shoresh shorth shortage shortcomingc shortcomings shorthand shortly should` show` showf showed showing showna showsb shrink shrinking shrubs shrunk siblinga sichel-owned sidea sides sideshow siegersdorf sightc signc signalled signals signatureb signed significance significanta significantlyf signposted signs silesia silesiane siliceous silky silta siltierh siltstone silty silty-clay` silver similarc similaritiesc similarity similarly simple` simplicityf simply` simultaneously since` sincere singlef single-region singlinga sings sinking sister sitea site/variety sitesd sitsc sitting situated` situationh sixteen sizec sizes skeletal skier skies skiingh skilful skill skilled skills` skinned` skins skipd slackening slate slenderh slight slightlya slings slope slopesa sloping slowc slow-developing slowdowng slowed slowerf slowingg slowly smalla small-scale smallerd smallestd smart` smith smithbrook smithfield smoke smoky smooth smothering snakea snippet snow-clad snowfalls snows snowy remaining smaller vignerons cluster outside so-calledc so-far soaringf soberf societya softa soften softened softera softly softness soil` soils` solda soldiers solely solicitor solid solidly solutionc solve some` somehow something sometimesb somewhatg somewhere sonse sophisticated` sopranof sorrenberg sought sounds sourg source sourcedg sources south` south south-facing south-westerly southcorp southeast southeastern southerliesc southerlyh southern southwest southwestern sow's spacef spain span` spanish spanning sparingly sparking sparkle` sparklingd sparse spatef speak speaking speaks special` specialising specialist specially specials specialtiesd specialty specific specifically specified speckled spectacularb spectacularlyc spectrumf speculatef speculation spelling spelt spencere spend spent spiceb spiced spicyh spicy/gamey spicy/peppery spiky spinifex spirit spirited spiritual splendid split split-second splits spoil sporadicg sporadic attempts viticulture canterburyg sporadicallya sprawl sprawling spray sprayedf spraying spraysd spreadg spreading spreads springa springboardb springsg springton springvale sprinkler sprinklers squarec stabilisation stagef stages staggeringlyc stainless stake stakes stamp stand` standard standardse standpoint stands` stanford stanley stanthorpe staple staples starc stare stark startc started` started startingb startling startlingly starts state state-of-the-art stately states statesmang stationa stations statistics` status stawell stayeda stead steadily` steady steak steel steely steep steeped steeply stefano steinmetza steins stemmyg stems steph stephen stepped sterile steven stewedh stiffened stilla stints stocked stocks stoically` stokesa stomachica stone stonecrofta stonesf stoney stoney/minerally stonier's stoniers stonye stonyfell stonyridge` stoodg stopped store stories storye straight` straightforward` straitc strands strange stranglehold strategy strathbogie straw strawberries strawberry stray stream streamsf street streets strengtha strengthen strengths stress stretch stretching strict strictlyb strikes strikingd strikingly string strip stripsc strong` stronger strongest stronglyf struan struck structurally structure` structured structuresf struggle stuart studiesc study stumbled stump stunning stunted sturt style` style style-path` styles` stylish suave sub-valleys subdistrict subeconomic subgroups subliminal submergedb subplastic subregiong subregions` subsequentd subsequentf subsequentlyc subsidies subsoil subsoils` substantial` substantiallya substantiate substituted substrate subsurface subtlef subtypes suburban suburbs succeede succeedsb success` successful` successfullye successionb successive such` sudden suddenly suffer suffered suffering suffers suffice sufficientd sufficiently sugarb suggesth suggestedf suggesting suggestionf suggestions suggests suitabilityc suitable suitably suiteda suits sulphur sultana sultanas summation` summationsh summer` summer summer/autumn summerfield summers summertown sumptuousc sumptuously sunbury sunbury marvellously history which sunbury's sunday sundown sundry sunnyb sunraysia sunshine` super-abundantb super-premium superb` superbly superimposed superiority superlative supermarket supplanted supple supplea supplementaryf supplemented suppleness supplied supplies supplyd supporta supported` supportingf suppose supremacy supreme surely surer surface surfing surge surgeon surprise` surprisingc surprisinglyg surround surroundedc surroundingc surveyed surveyor survive survived surviving suspectf suspects sustainability sustained svelte swallow swallowed swampa sweep sweeping sweeps sweete sweetapple sweeter sweetly sweetnessc swelling swept swings swiss swiss-born switcheda switching swung sydney sydney's sydney-based symbiosis symbiotic syndicate syndicated synergistic` synonymousg syrah system systems sztipan` t'gallant tablea tableland tables tahbilk takef takenf takeover takes` taking tale` talent talented talkd tallc taltarni taltarni's tamar tamarilloa tamburlaine taminick tamworth tangyh tannic tannin tanninsa tantamount tanunda taradalea tararuac target tarnish tarrawarra tarwin taskb tasmania tasmania's taste tastedc tastes tasting tastings tatachilla taurangad tawnies taylorc teacher teams technical technically technique techniquesc technology teething television tell` tells telltale temper temperamental temperate temperature` temperaturesb tempering temporary temptation ten-year tended tendencya tendency tending tendse tenorf tenterfield tenuously termed terminated terminating termsb terra terracec terracesa terrainh territorial territory territory's terroir` testament testaments testimonial texture` textured textures than` thanks thanks that` adelaide plains north adelaide barossa valley always beautiful valley improbable start birth murrumbidgee irrigation scheme between clare valley occupies special place heart clare valley occupies special place heart development viticulture barossa valley far-flung waikato plenty smallest first vines established sandy helen first vines planted hawke's missia gippsland region remains victoria's remote goulburn river wends through three central victo hilltops region takes shires boorowa harden newly created geographe region compact process formally mapping australia's regions riverlands australia remarkable achievement their` themc themselves` then` then-famous thence theoreticalc theoretically there` thereafter` thereby these` these separate regions under geographic thesis they` thing thing` thingsg think thirdc third-generation third-largest thirdly thirteen this` another important region emerge separate thistle thomasf thomson thoroughly those` those though` thoughtf thousands threads threat threaten threatening threateningly threats threec thrives` thriving througha throughout` throwing thrownd throws thrust thundering thurgaua thurgau-basedb thus` tidese tiffena tight tightlye timber timea time-being timeless timesc timing tingle tingle-wood tingling` tintara tinyc toast toasty toasty/buttery tobacco tobacco/herbaceous tocaciu todayg togetherg tokay tokays token tollana tollana's tonea tones tonica tonnage tonne tonnesb tony` tooke tooma tooth toowoomba topographye topsoil topsoils torlesseg total` total totallyb touch` touches tough` tougher toughness touring tourisme touriste tourist-orientedg tourists towards towering townc towns township trace track tracks tracts tradeh tradition traditional traditionally traffich trained training traminer traminer traminersb trams transcend transcends transfer transformation transformed translates transport transverse trapped travel travelled travels traversed treasure treasures treatedb treatment trebbiano trees trellis trellises` trellising tremendousf trendy trialc trialled tributaries tricks trimming triumphantly triumphing trophies trophyb tropical troublesome trouette trouth trueg truffles truly truncateh trunks trust trust-classified truth trvine tuart tuarts tug-of-war tullamarine tumbarumba tumbarumba remote regions austral tumbarumba's tunnels turn` turned` turning turns tuscany twelve twentieth twentieth-century twenty-first twiceh twinkle twist twisted twistinge twists waves immigration yugoslavs first two-storey two-wheel typec typesa typical typically typicity typifies typify tyrrell tyrrell's u-shaped` ubiquitousg uc1.22 uc2.21 uf5.31 ug5.15 ultimate ultimately ultra-fine ultra-late ultra-rich um6.11 um6.2 um6.41 umbilical unable uncertain uncertainty uncommon uncompromisinglye unconditional uncontrollably unconvincing uncritical undeniablyf underb under-utilised undergroundh underhill underlain underlay underline underlined underlinesb underlying underpine understand understanding understated understood undertones underwrittene undeveloped undiminished undiscovered undoubted undoubtedlyh undramatic undreamed undueb undulatinge undulations unearthed unequalled unequivocallyf unexpected unexpectedly unexplained unfairly unfairly unfarmed unfashionableb unfolding unforcedf unhappilyf unified uniform unifying unimpeachable unimportant uniqueh unirrigated united units universally university university's unknown unless unlike unlikelyb unlimited unnecessaryf unoakedg unpleasant unpolluted unpredictability unpredictable unqualifiedc unreality unreasonable unrecognised unrelatedh unreleased unrelenting unremarkable unremittingly unripe unscarred unseen unsolved unsuccessfule unsuitable unsuited unsurpassedc unsurprising unsurprisinglye unsuspectinga untila until until cowra estate planted first vines unusual unusually unwary unwooded uplands upona upper upsetting urban` urbanisation urginga usage usedc useful usefulnessh user-pays users usinga usual usuallya utilised utilising utilitarianb utmost utterlyh vacation vaguely vales valley` valley-grown valleyse vallley valuable value` values vanilla vanillin variability variablef variables variationf variation variations variedg variesg varietal` varietally varietals varieties` variety` variousb various variously varya varyingb vasse vastly vavasourf veering vegetable vegetal vegetation vegetative` velvety vengeance` ventilated ventured venturedf verdant verdelho verdot verge veritable version versionsg verticallyf veryb vesuvius veuve vexed viable vibrant victoria victoria victoria's victorian victorians victoriousc victory vidala viesa viewc view/eskdalea viewpoint views viggoe vigneronb vignerons` vigorousa vigour` villaa village vined vines` vines vineyard` vineyards` vinification vinosityc vinous vintage` vintage-time vintages` viognier violet violet violets virgin virtual virtuallyg virtueh viscous visibility visible vision visionaries visitc visiteda visiting visitor visitors visitsh vistas viticultural` viticulture` viticulture winemaking region viticulture carried intermittently pictur viticulturisth viticulturists` vivant vivid vividly vogue volcanicb volumed voluptuous vossc voyager vuletic vulnerable vying waiheke` waihirereb waikatod waikerie waikoukou` waimauku/kumeu` waiparag wairarapac wairauf waited waiting wakac wakool wales walking wallaroo walls wanakah wandering wanderings wandin wangaratta wanneroo wantc wanted warburton warby warmh warm-climate warmer warmer warmest warmthg warra warren warrenmang watchf waterf water-holdinga water-retentive watercourses waterlogging waters watertable watertablesf watervale waterways wattles waurn wave` waves waynef waysf weaker weakest weakly wealth wealthya weatherh weathered weaver weaver's weedy/grassy weekend weekends weeks weeks-old weighsh weight` welcome welcomes welcoming welds well` well-draineda well-established well-exposed well-knownd well-made well-publicised well-recognised well-suited wellingtonc wellington/waiparag wellington/wairarapag wendouree wendouree's wends wentc wentworth were` westf west-facing western westfield wetter wettest` whangarei what` well-known@ which@ whites@ williamstown@ winemaking winnerb without writing@ yering@ whatever` whatsoever wheat wheel` whena californian george chaffey political dupli penfolds decided dalwood vineyard italian-born claudio alcorso planted vines moorilla whole australia strikes whence whenever where` whereas whereverg whether` whether subliminal suggestion whether vines preceded followed discovery which` whicher whichever while` while geographically proximate pipers river tamar while region previously whiteb white's white-trunked whitehorse whites whitfield whitlands wholef wholehearted wholesale whollya whomc whose widec widelyc widespreadf wifed wignalls wilde wilderness wildflowers wildwood will` willespie williamc 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Pro 3.0 - 4.0M1 perth phillip phillip ranges rivers south south coast south australia southern southern tasmania valley victoria western western victoria Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday January February March April August September October November December 1st Quarter 2nd Quarter 3rd Quarter 4th Quarter `RgSd] 7/28/98 ABB REGION BISNEWZEALAND A Form Copy *abb reg list HarperCollins Form Startup FormB MAP NUMBER NUMBERED REGION PICT NAME REGION STATE RegionB StateB InfoB A Pict NameB Map NumberB Numbered RegionB & " " & ZoneB Abb regionB bIsNewZealandB "New Zealand" New Zealand ListB RegionD State(s)F InfoG Show Wineries in RegionI Pict NameK Map NumberQ ZoneU A Form CopyB State Region *abb reg listB RegionP Abb region HarperCollins FormB RegionD StateF InfoK Map NumberQ StartupB Auckland AreaB New Zealand (North Island) From a negligible base at the turn of the century, Auckland steadily grew over the next 65 years to the point where 50 per cent of the country s vines were situated within its confines. The wheel of fortune turned with a vengeance thereafter: by 1996 it contributed a mere 2 per cent of the national crush (from 3.2 per cent of its plantings) and on this yardstick its importance will continue to decline as the plantings elsewhere in New Zealand continue to increase. Much of the growth in th RegionD StateQ Hawke s BayB New Zealand (North Island) The first vines were planted in Hawke s Bay in 1851 by missionaries of the Society of Mary, making Mission Vineyards (still run by the Society of Mary) the only nineteenth-century winemaking business to continue in the same ownership. But commercial viticulture and winemaking did not commence until the wine boom of the 1890s, and even then Mission Vineyards made a fairly modest contribution by commencing to sell a little wine of a stomachic and tonic nature in 1895. The boom started in e first half of this century was prompted by the Dalmatians (or Yugoslavs) who had migrated to New Zealand in the early 1890s to work in the Kauri gum fields at Henderson. Another wave arrived after the First World War, not to work in the gum fields, but to grow whatever crops were needed. Sztipan Jelich (in 1902) was the first to turn to viticulture, founding Pleasant Valley, a winery which remains in the family to this day. The other pioneer was not a Yugoslav, but a Lebanese: A A Corban , who planted 1.6 hectares at Henderson in 1902 and started a famous family dynasty. Between 1925 and 1932 there was substantial growth in the New Zealand industry, most of it in the Auckland region. The number of licensed vignerons increased from 40 to 100 (it has since declined to 65 as at 1996), even if the quality of the wine was not particularly distinguished. This growth also laid the basis for the continuing importance of Auckland as a major production region, paralleling the role of the Barossa Valley in Australia: 90 per cent of the most important New Zealand wineries are domiciled there, even if they draw their grapes from elsewhere. The reasons for Auckland s failure to match the viticultural growth of other districts are partly climatic and partly economic. Urban pressure has pushed almost all the vineyards (though not the wineries) out of Henderson to Kumeu/Huapai, but one wonders how long it will be before the same pressures manifest themselves there. The g reat success of Matua Valley, Kumeu River, Collards and (to a lesser degree) Nobilo with locally-grown grapes (chiefly at Huapai and in the Waikoukou Valley) show what can be achieved with appropriate viticulture and canopy management. The logic of growing cabernet sauvignon is obvious enough: it is a variety which stands up stoically to excessive rainfall and humidity (the chief problems of the area), and the adequate heat summation means that wines with better structure and more generous fruit flavour are possible. Michael Brajkovich at Kumeu River has also demonstrated that Chardonnay of exceptional complexity can be made in most vintages, supported by Collards. Merlot, too, is a successful variety, generally blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, but will be able to stand in its own right as a straight varietal. Then there is the special climate of Waiheke Island which has produced the outstanding Cabernets of Stonyridge and Goldwater Estate, while Auckland Queen s Counsel D r Tony Molloy seems determined to prove he can do just as well at Papakura, to the south of Auckland. As one would expect of a Queen s Counsel, he makes a most compelling case. One is simply left to wonder whether the same efforts and precocious skills applied in climates such as those enjoyed in Hawke s Bay or Martinborough might produce even greater wines. Perhaps they would, perhaps they would not. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 47'S, 174 34'E Kumeu 'S, 174 40'E Henderson 49'S, 175 08'E Waiheke Island 04'S, 174 57'E Papakura Subregions Waimauku/Kumeu, Henderson, Auckland, Waiheke Island and South Auckland. Climate The wettest climate in New Zealand places special demands on viticulturists. The HDD summation of 1350 is less than that of Hawke s Bay or Gisborne, no doubt due to the amount of cloud cover and rain days. The annual rainfall is massive: 360 mm falls within the normal vintage span of February to April. It is here that Waiheke Island stands out with its much lower summer rainfall. However, averages do not tell the tale of vintages disrupted by cyclonic rainfall in the same fashion as the Hunter Valley and which mean that a tough skinned variety such as cabernet sauvignon has special value. Statistics Heat degree days: 1350 Sunshine hours per day: 6.6 Annual rainfall: 1370 mm Growing season rainfall: 560 mm Mean January temperature: 18.1 Harvest: End March end April >Soil The shallow clay soils which overly hard silty-clay subsoils exacerbate the problems associated with the high rainfall; there are some better patches with sandy loam subsoils which offer better drainage, but the vigour and vegetative growth problems have led to the development of the sophisticated U-shaped trellises inspired by Dr Richard Smart. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 48 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 45 ha Merlot: 27 ha Cabernet franc: 22 ha Pinot noir: 11 ha ignon blanc: 9 ha Palomino: 9 ha Other: 39 ha Total: 210 ha Principal Wine Styles Cabernet Merlot: The blend of these two varieties is as synergistic here as it is in most other parts of the world, even if the Cabernet component is not as tough as it can be elsewhere. Kumeu River, indeed, makes a blend of great elegance and individual style, while in the south St Nesbit produces a superb Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc (the vineyard ha s recently been replanted). Throughout one finds finely balanced blackcurrant and redcurrant fruit set against a touch of the herbaceous/capsicum flavour which is to be found in all great examples of the style. Harrier Rise is a relative newcomer adding weight to the examples of the longer-established leaders. Chardonnay: As Australia has so handsomely proved, chardonnay thrives in almost every conceivable combination of climate and terroir, simply providing wines of differing text ure and flavour, but all immediately recognisable as Chardonnay. Thus it should come as no surprise that Collards immaculately sculpted Rothesay Chardonnay is recognised as a New Zealand classic. Kumeu River takes an entirely different style-path, seeking complexity and longevity, relying on bottle development rather than simple fruit or on new oak to build flavour and aroma. Sauvignon Blanc: It has to be remembered that most of the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc made by the Auckla nd wineries is grown elsewhere, and the style of those wines is discussed in the context of the region concerned. The principal local wines are the highly idiosyncratic, complex Kumeu River Sauvignon, with its strong malolactic influence, and rather more straightforward (but reliable) wines from Collards and Matua Valley. None have the tingling sparkle and zip of Marlborough or even of Hawke s Bay wines, but for some that is a good thing. Auckland.picE GisborneB New Zealand (North Island) New Zealand is a country blessed with an abundance of rainfall, well-drained moderately fertile soils, and perfect growing season temperatures; grapevines grow at a prodigious rate and produce no less prodigious crops. But one area nonetheless is super-abundant, and performs much the same role for New Zealand as the Riverland does for Australia, providing the fuel for the millions of litres of white cask and cheap beverage wine consumed every year. The area is, of course, Gisborne, which n 1890, when Henry Stokes Tiffen, a wealthy 71-year-old landowner (who had lived in Hawke s Bay since 1857 and who had sporadically endeavoured to support viticulture in the region) plunged into grape growing and winemaking. By 1896 his Greenmeadows Vineyard planted to varieties such as chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot blanc, and pinot meuniere was described as the premier vineyard in New Zealand . Romeo Bragato visited the area in 1895, and apart from urging Tiffen to plant cabernet sauvi gnon (advice which Tiffen followed), described Hawke s Bay and Martinborough/Wairarapa as two districts pre-eminently suited to viticulture. In the meantime, Bernard Chambers had started planting vines at his Te Mata station in 1892, followed by J N Williams at Frimley Orchards, Hastings in 1893. While these plantings (and the attendant winemaking) were but part of more broadly based pastoral activities of wealthy men who were in no sense dependent on wine for a living, Hawke s Bay was of great importance. By 1913 Chambers not only had the longest vineyard in New Zealand, but Hawke s Bay was producing 30 per cent of the country s wine and what is more, producing it from the classic grape varieties. From this point on, those varieties were eclipsed by hybrids and lesser quality high yielding varieties such as palomino. At the same time the vineyards were removed from the hillsides and re-established on the alluvial river plains: quantity rather than quality became the aim, and the emphasis switched entirely from table to fortified wine. It was to produce such wine that Jim McLeod at Taradale, Dick Ellis at Brookfields and Robert Bird at Glenvale established wineries in the 1930s. But much, indeed most, of Hawke s Bay s history up to 1980 was dominated by Tom McDonald and McWilliam s Wines. McDonald had acquired a small vineyard and winery from Bartholemew Steinmetz in 1926; in 1944 he sold out to Ballins, a Christchurch-based brewer, but stayed on as m anager to achieve the expansion he desired and which was possible with Ballins financial strength. In 1961 McWilliam s Wines (founded in 1944 at Hawke s Bay) acquired the McDonald Winery from Ballins, and Tom McDonald became production manager of what was then the largest wine company in New Zealand. The following year McWilliam s ceased to be wholly owned by its Australian parent, but Tom McDonald stayed on until 1976, and indeed became Chairman of the New Zealand Wine Institute between 1980 and 1982, eventually dying in 1987 aged 79, revered as one of the great figures of this century. McWilliam s became part of the Corbans empire in the game of corporate chess which marked the 1980s, and the once great name is no more. The McDonald Winery is once again making a major contribution to the New Zealand industry as the premium winemaking facility of Montana (which acquired it from an unsuspecting Corbans) and will keep the name and memory of Tom McDonald alive for ever. his is particularly fitting, for it was McDonald who kept alive the memory of the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon he had known in his youth (producing a fabled 1949 Cabernet Sauvignon, and continuing to make these wines during the McWilliam s era), and it is upon these two varieties (and Merlot) that the current high reputation of the district rests. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 31'S, 176 Subregions Bay View/Eskdale, Taradale, Meanee, Hastings, Havelock North and Ngatarawa. Climate The Hawke's Bay climate is self-evidently suited to the production of high quality Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The Heat Degree Days (HDD) summation is 1460 (at Napier), and the Mean January Temperature (MJT) is 18.8 C. The 7.4 sunshine hours per day in the growing season guarantee full ripening of the grapes, and the only significant hazard is the risk of cyclonic rainfall in March and April (such as h appened in 1979 and 1988). The average October to March rainfall of 340 mm is optimal, with the balance of 440 mm falling in the winter and spring months. Site selection has, however, been shown to be important, with north-facing slopes producing the greatest red wines. Statistics Heat degree days: 1460 Sunshine hours per day: 7.4 Annual rainfall: 780 mm Growing season rainfall: 340 mm Mean January temperature: 18.8 Harvest: Mid-March late April Soil The soil types vary s ubstantially, notwithstanding that almost all of the vineyards are established on old alluvial plains. On one side are the well-drained, infertile Ngatarawa sandy loams which (while ideally suited to premium grapes) need drip irrigation because of their low water-holding capacity, through to the heavier silt loams with greater fertility, greater water-holding capacity and moderate drainage, which lead to vigorous growth. At Havelock North sandy loams overlie a clay pan in parts which imped es drainage and may likewise lead to vigour problems. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 445 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 315 ha Sauvignon blanc: 281 ha Merlot: 210 ha ller thurgau: 185 ha Pinot noir: 92 ha Muscat: 48 ha Cabernet franc: 45 ha Riesling: 38 ha Other: 252 ha Total: 1911 ha Principal Wine Styles Cabernet Sauvignon: While Auckland can produce first class Cabernet Sauvignon when vintage conditions permit, Hawke s Bay vies with Waiheke Island as the most co nsistent producer of New Zealand s top Cabernets. Vidal Reserve, Villa Maria Reserve and the McDonald Winery Church Road are generally recognised as the finest examples, with lush berry fruit supported by the generous use of French oak. Corbans, too, has produced some excellent wines from the variety. The down side are green tannins and tamarillo flavours from lesser vintages and/or lesser makers. Cabernet Merlot: With Te Mata pointing the way, but with strong support from most of the top producers, Cabernet Merlot (or Merlot Cabernet or Merlot-dominant blends) has ousted varietal Cabernet Sauvignon as the district s leading red wine. Te Mata s Coleraine and its sibling Awatea, Brookfields, C J Pask, Esk Valley Reserve, Esk Valley The Terraces, Villa Maria Reserve, Ngatarawa Glazebrook Reserve, Morton Estate Black Label and newcomer Stonecroft are the leaders of an impressively strong pack. These are all wines with relatively soft if luscious red berry fruits, suppl e tannins and an elegance which is as much European in tone as it is Australasian. However, the same snake exists in this Eden as it does with Cabernet Sauvignon. Chardonnay: Singling out producers is becoming increasingly difficult as winemakers become more familiar with the variety, and have come to realise that more is not necessarily better. Using an alphabetical approach, one comes up with Babich Irongate, C J Pask, Church Road (both Reserve and varietal), Coopers Creek Swamp Road, Corbans Cottage Block, Delegat s Proprietor s Reserve, Morton Estate Black Label, Vidal Reserve and (if you enjoy lashings of oak) Villa Maria Reserve are the top guns. These are complex, rich wines, usually best consumed while young, with a tendency to become overblown with more than two years bottle age. As the style is progressively refined, so will the longevity increase. Sauvignon Blanc: The style is slightly softer, richer and fuller in the mouth than that of MarlborougQ h, but lacks the final intensity and cutting edge of pure fruit of that region. Perhaps partly for that reason some (though not all) of the better wines have been wholly or partially barrel fermented (or at least given some oak). Hawkes.picE #A WairarapaB New Zealand (North Island) It is unlikely that Wairarapa (which at various times has been called Martinborough and Wellington) will ever challenge Hawke s Bay in terms of production (it presently boasts only 2.9 per cent of the nation s vineyards) but Hawke s Bay owes much to it. In 1890 Henry Stokes Tiffen visited William Beetham s Wairarapa vineyard planted to shiraz and pinot noir, and tasted the wines. Michael Cooper records that Beetham subsequently wrote, He [Tiffen] paid us a visit and saw my vineyard; he lu ow has almost 20 per cent of the country s vineyards but only 11 per cent of its wineries. Between 1921 and 1956 it had only one vigneron, Friedrick Wohnsiedler, and his Waihirere Vineyard was only 4 hectares when he died in 1956. Nonetheless it was to be the springboard for massive expansion starting in 1961 and gathering pace from 1965. Montana acquired Waihirere, and has perpetuated Wohnsiedler s name on its premium M ller Thurgau-based wine. Montana now has two large if strictly utili tarian wineries in the region and Corbans one, but neither of these bottles or packages wine there. Gisborne was in fact one of New Zealand s better kept secrets. Initially it was left to Matawhero to show just how good the wines could be, although it then abdicated that role, leaving the task to James Millton of Millton Vineyard. He has produced a succession of superb white wines, some dry, some botrytised, but all with a signature blend of complexity and elegance. Revington, too, has ma de many lovely Chardonnays and Traminers. Behind the scenes, as it were, many other players, some resident, some not, were drawing grapes from the region which found their way in varying percentages into some of New Zealand s most highly regarded wines. But by the 1990s, a number of large wineries had decided to come out of the Gisborne closet, and acknowledge the region of origin. Foremost has been Corbans with its Private Bin and Cottage Block Chardonnays (the latter a multiple trophy winner for Champion Chardonnays and Champion Wine of Show at the 1995 Air New Zealand Wine Awards, for example), supported by Montana with various labels, including its Ormond Estate Chardonnay. For all that, the decline in Gisborne s contribution to the national production is very nearly as great as that of Auckland, projected to halve between 1989 (31.7 per cent of New Zealand s vineyard area) and 1999 (16.2 per cent), passing through 19.4 per cent as at 1996. In absolute terms, the are a under vines shows a marginal decrease from 1383 hectares in 1989 to 1229 hectares in 1999. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 40'S, 178 Subregions None. Climate The climate is as conducive to growth as are the soils. It is slightly less sunny and hence slightly cooler than Hawke s Bay; the real difference lies in the higher rainfall: 1030 mm annual, 420 mm between October and March, and 152 mm during February and March. These figures a re high, but not distressingly so: the real problems come in years such as 1988 when Cyclone Bola submerged Gisborne, cutting it off entirely from the outside world. (By the time Bola reached Hawke s Bay, its intensity had greatly diminished.) Statistics Heat degree days: 1380 Sunshine hours per day: 7.3 Annual rainfall: 1030 mm Growing season rainfall: 420 mm Mean January temperature: 18.6 Harvest: Mid-March late April and sometimes into May for botrytised styles. Soil he vineyards are grown exclusively on old river flats, with fertile alluvial loams overlying sandy or volcanic subsoils. These soils are ideally suited to the production of high yields of white grapes without undue dilution of flavour or varietal character. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 347 ha ller thurgau: 280 ha Muscat: 135 ha Reichensteiner: 71 ha Sauvignon blanc: 64 ha Semillon: 62 ha Chenin blanc: 42 ha Merlot: 26 ha Pinot noir: 21 ha Gewurtztraminer: 17 ha Riesling: 15 ha Other: 90 ha Total: 1170 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Without question, the most important wine to come from Gisborne, and which here as everywhere underlines just how flexible it is in both vineyard and winery. By and large it is cropped heavily and then treated extractively to compensate for the high yields, with botrytis adding its mark to a lesser or greater degree according to the vintage. But if the yields are controlled, and the wine treate d with care in the winery, quite remarkable results can be obtained. There is no right or wrong in all of this: there is a limited demand for high-priced wine, a much larger demand for inexpensive Chardonnay, and it is this which Gisborne produces easily. Corbans, Landfall, Montana and Revington, however, show just how far the quality envelope can be pushed. Gewurztraminer: While a relatively unfashionable variety outside of Alsace, the sheer quality and varietal impact of the best Gisborne Gewurztraminers has to be acclaimed. When Matawhero succeeds, it is brilliant; Montana s Patutahi Estate and Revington are regular benchmarks, redolent of spice, lychee and rose petals. Chenin Blanc and Riesling: An unlikely grouping, but it so happens that Millton Estate excels with both. Its Opou Riesling is piercingly fragrant and intense, but most spectacular are the late-harvested, partially or totally botrytis-affected wines usually (though not always) made from the se varieties. ller Thurgau: Yields from this variety are always high, but here they are gargantuan 30 tonnes per hectare is common. The resultant wine is bland, and is reliant on the residual sugar one customarily encounters in it to provide it with such flavour as it has. Gisborne.picE Waikato and Bay of PlentyB New Zealand (North Island) The far-flung Waikato and Bay of Plenty is the smallest of New Zealand s recognised regions (only Northland is smaller), with a mere 115 hectares under vine as at 1997. But it is home to some well-known wineries, which like numerous Auckland producers rely more on grapes grown in Gisborne, Hawke s Bay and Marlborough than on those grown locally. Waikato is only a hop, skip and jump south of Auckland, which may partly explain the $8 million hotel-cum-conference centre built as part of nched with us and tasted our wine. He said, This is enough for me , went back to Napier and planted a vineyard. Notwithstanding Romeo Bragato s unqualified endorsement of the suitability of Wellington for premium grape growing, Beetham s vineyard (which had been planted in 1883) was removed in 1905 after prohibitionists were victorious in Masterton. The first sign of a renaissance came in 1978 when Alister Taylor planted a small vineyard, but the real impetus came when leading Departmen t of Scientific and Industrial Research (DSIR) soil scientist Dr Derek Milne became a founding partner in Martinborough Vineyards, following up a 1979 report in which he had identified climatic and soil similarities with Burgundy. It is an interesting area: one ascends over the imposing Tararua Range to reach it from the city of Wellington, but it in fact sits in a valley which opens directly onto the Cook Strait. It is much cooler and drier than any other North Island region, and shares a climate similar to that of Marlborough. Notwithstanding that it is surrounded by high mountains, the vineyards are all established on old alluvial gravelly river flats, albeit in carefully delineated patches carefully delineated, that is, by the local vignerons who have differentiated these soils from the heavier clays which are also found in the valley. Relatively small though the region is, its rapidly increasing number of wineries boasts a galaxy of star producers. Ata Rangi, Dry River and Martinborough Vineyard have to be rated in New Zealand s top ten or so wineries with Palliser in close attendance and Nga Waka, Te Kairanga and Lintz Estate all capable of producing world class wines. Opinions differ as to whether the region is more suited to the Burgundian varieties (chardonnay and pinot noir), the Bordeaux varieties (cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sauvignon blanc) or the Alsace/Germanic (riesling, gewurztraminer and pinot gris). Dry River s Neil McCallum has p rovided the most compelling answer in favour of the early-ripening Burgundy/Alsace/Germany brigade (adding in sauvignon blanc) with Ata Rangi, Palliser Estate and Martinborough Vineyard adding their impressive weight. The contrary view comes from the theoretical rhetoric of Alexander Vineyard and Benfield & Delamere advocates of the Bordeaux cause and ironically from the third of Ata Rangi s wines, its distinguished Celebre (a Cabernet Merlot/Shiraz blend). What is perfectly certain is that Wellington produces pinot noir of quality unsurpassed by any region outside of Burgundy, impeccable chardonnay, sumptuous sauvignon blanc and great riesling, gewurztraminer and pinot gris. If I were to establish a vineyard there, it would be planted to those varieties and to no others. The only limitation on growth and it may prove an insuperable one is the tiny amount of the so-called terrace soils laid down by the Huangarua River which remain available for planting. In a s ight more common in Burgundy, France than in the new world, front and back gardens of some of the Martinborough town houses have been planted to vineyards. The only solution once the last few hectares have been planted is to push outwards into the surrounding plains and hills. Here the soils are different, the risk of frost higher (in some places, at least), and wind may be a problem. The first pioneers have already commenced establishing trial vineyards, and answers to at least some of t he questions will start to be given early in the next millenium, but I fancy they will not challenge those on the Martinborough terraces. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 13'S, 175 Subregions None. Climate With an HDD summation of around 1100, the climate is distinctly Burgundian, and it is not hard to see why most of the vignerons have elected to concentrate on early-ripening varieties. By March and April, the average daily temperatur e has fallen to 14.7 C, and there is a long, slow finish to the season, which is intermittently affected by late season rainfall. However, with a winter spring dominant rainfall of under 700 mm, it is not surprising that drip irrigation is widely used to counteract summer drought. Overall, the principal climatic problem is wind: southerlies blast up from the Cook Strait, while northwesterly gales are also common. Tall windbreaks are to be found in and around almost all vineyards. Stati stics Harvest: Late March early April for pinot noir into May for botrytised riesling and cabernet sauvignon. Soil Centuries ago the Huangarua River laid down strips of gravelly silt loams (similar to those found in parts of Hawke s Bay) overlying deep, free-draining gravels. These are ideal for premium grapes, but do exacerbate the effect of summer drought, and make drip irrigation essential. Principal Grape Varieties Pinot noir: 63 ha Chardonnay: 45 ha Semillon: 34 ha Sauvignon blanc: 25 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 23 ha Merlot: 6 ha Other: 18 ha Total: 214 ha Principal Wine Styles Pinot Noir: More than any other variety, Pinot Noir reflects every input, be it the crop level, the canopy management, the climate, the soil, the particular vintage conditions, the multitude of techniques which can be used to make it, the type of oak and the length of time in cask. In particular, any shortcoming will be ruthlessly exposed; on the other side of th e fence, great Pinot Noir comes in a wide variety of styles. So it is that Ata Rangi makes staggeringly opulent Pinot; Dry River often does likewise, but also with great structure; Palliser Estate and Te Kairanga can make meltingly beautiful and fragrant wines; and Martinborough Vineyard makes Pinots with breed, finesse and unsurpassed length of flavour. Chardonnay: It may be the climate, it may be the small size of the wineries and the proximity of their vineyards, or it may be th e winemaking techniques and philosophies (or probably a combination of all three) but the Wairarapa Chardonnays have a degree of elegance, a finesse which sets them apart from other New Zealand Chardonnays. This is achieved without any loss of character or flavour, however: these wines certainly have presence. Ata Rangi, Dry River, Martinborough Vineyard and Palliser Estate are outstanding. Sauvignon Blanc: During the 1990s, it was not Marlborough which most frequently won the Trop hy for Best Sauvignon Blanc at the Air New Zealand Wine Awards, but Wairarapa. Perhaps it is the extra degree of vinosity, that extra layer of flavour, which Wairarapa provides. Whatever be the answer, Dry River, Gladstone, Martinborough Vineyard, Nga Waka and Palliser Estate regularly produce spectacularly flavoured wines. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot: Long-term climatic studies notwithstanding, it appears to be a more difficult task to produce wines of international quality from these varieties than the three discussed above. Having said that, Ata Rangi shows that the requisite ripeness (and fruit sweetness) can be obtained, while Chifney s 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon was a gold medal winner at the Royal Easter Wine Show. And if the wines fail to equal the others from the region, it won t be for want of effort by producers such as Alexander Vineyard, Benfield & Delamere, Canadoro, Lintz Estate, Voss Estate and Winslow Wines all of whom have put their money on the BQ+ordeaux square. Mine will not follow them. Wairapa.picE NelsonB New Zealand (South Island) Nelson, 75 kilometres to the east of Marlborough and separated from it by the Richmond and Bryant Ranges, has a far longer viticultural history than its most famous neighbour. Whether the Silesian winegrowers who landed in 1843 actually attempted to plant vines before moving on to the easier climate and topography of Australia s Barossa Valley I do not know, but the tightly folded hillsides and twisting valleys of Nelson have always militated against the type of broad acre development whic De Redcliffe Estates, and its subsequent acquisition by the Japanese Otaka Holdings group (which also owns the Hyatt Auckland hotel). A nominal quantity of grapes is grown on De Redcliffe s 6 hectares of vines sufficient to keep the guests at the Hotel du Vin happy but most of the grapes are from other regions, part from De Redcliffe s own vineyards there, part purchased. Thus it does not make much sense to talk of regional style with the De Redcliffe wines, except to say that the whi te wines are better than the red wines, and are pleasant rather than exciting. No such faint praise could be accorded to Rongopai Wines, housed in what used to be the Te Kauwhata Research Station Winery and run by former research scientist Tom van Dam and his wife Faith. Here minimal use of chemical sprays induces the late-season botrytis which results in the explosively rich and searingly concentrated late-harvest botrytised wines of Rongopai. This is viticulture (and winemaking) balanced on a razor s edge, and makes the production of the larger volume, conventional dry white table wines (Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay) that much more dangerous. It is no surprise to find that Rongopai has entered into a joint venture vineyard in Hawke s Bay destined to produce Chardonnay and Bordeaux-blend reds in a much safer climate. Across in the Bay of Plenty, Morton Estate is the dominant landmark, although one which has had a succession of owners in the past 15 years. Like so many others in this region, Morton relies heavily on Hawke s Bay, where it has over 100 hectares in three separate vineyard sites and a newly (1996) established crushing/dejuicing facility. It has also acquired a 41-hectare Marlborough vineyard which produces chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. Notwithstanding the changes, Morton Estate continues to produce highly regarded Chardonnays of considerable complexity, and a wide range of other more-than-adequate table wines. The str iking new Mills Reef winery on the outskirts of Tauranga matches the best efforts of the Napa Valley in terms of sheer opulence and with a 70-seat restaurant thrown in for good measure. But like Morton Estate it also relies on Hawke s Bay for its grape supply, part coming from its own vineyard in Mere Road, but most being purchased from independent growers. Particularly complex sparkling wines and rich Chardonnays are the Mills Reef specialties. D NZ_NI.picE MarlboroughB New Zealand (South Island) If asked to capture the essence of New Zealand wine there is only one possible answer: the crystalline pungency and crisp beauty of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. In their different ways, Montana and Cloudy Bay have done more to create awareness of, and credibility for, New Zealand on the world wine stage than any other producers or any other styles. This is in no way to denigrate the achievements of Te Mata, Kumeu River, Martinborough Vineyard, Collards, Stonyridge or a host of others: but h has underwritten Marlborough s success. F H M Ellis & Sons moved into the district in 1868, and by 1890 were making significant quantities of wine, originally from cherries and wild blackberries, but moving on to grapes thereafter. The Ellis winery remained in production until the Second World War when it was converted to a woolshed. In 1948 Viggo du Fresne took over a vineyard at Ruby Bay which had been planted with black hamburg (a table grape) 30 years earlier. After almost 20 years of unsuccessful attempts to establish chardonnay and semillon, he planted the red hybrid seibel varieties which dominated New Zealand in the postwar years, and successfully made small quantities of wine. But it was left to Austrian-born Hermann Seifried and wife Agnes to succeed in commercial terms. They started their business in 1974, and through sheer hard work (and winemaking and business acumen) have built a significant enterprise, moving into a large, purpose-built new winery in 199 6. The other important winery is Tim and Judy Finn s Neudorf; while smaller, it is one of New Zealand s best. Like Otago, tourism will continue to underpin the growth of the region, which has long had a flourishing arts and crafts (particularly pottery) industry. Even by New Zealand standards, it is a beautiful place to visit, with a constantly changing landscape as you drive around the narrow, twisting and undulating roads. The shoreline, too, is ever-changing with the tides, and never f ar away. Its flourishing arts and crafts (particularly pottery) industry adds yet further variety for the tourist. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 16'S, 173 00'E Subregions None. Climate The climate of Nelson is cooler than Marlborough over the length of the growing season (997 HDD) with much higher rainfall: 1000 mm overall, and 460 mm falling in the growing season. There is no question that the rainfall (and the attendant humidity) p oses the greatest challenges, and equally makes this an overwhelmingly white wine region. Statistics Heat degree days: 997 Sunshine hours per day: 7.6 Annual rainfall: 1000 mm Growing season rainfall: 460 mm Mean January temperature: 17 Harvest: Late March mid-May for late-harvest riesling. Soil The soils of Nelson are of totally different origin and hence structure from those of Marlborough, having richer loams and being much less stony, leading to greater vine vigour. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 40 ha Sauvignon blanc: 33 ha Pinot noir: 25 ha Riesling: 17 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 8 ha Gewurtztraminer: 5 ha Merlot: 3 ha Other: 5 ha Total: 136 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: The statistics tell the story: it was the predominant variety in 1996, and plantings will increase by a further 50 per cent by 1999. With Neudorf at the helm, it produces one of New Zealand s richest and most complex styles: mouthfilling, lus h creamy/nutty/mealy flavours and texture are the order of the day. Spencer Hill Estate, too, produces wines with above-average weight and complexity. Sauvignon Blanc: Unsurprisingly, similar in style to that of Marlborough, except that it is a fraction fleshier and a touch softer. Riesling: Neudorf and Seifried Estate are the keynote producers; Neudorf makes a distinguished, long-lived wine of great balance, Seifried Estate a kaleidoscopic array from fiercely uncompromisin Mgly dry to fully sweet, with a common denominator of quality. Pinot Noir: While there are occasional Cabernet Sauvignons of quality from Nelson, Pinot Noir is the one red wine of consistent merit. Overall, the style tends to be light and soft, but varietal character is clearly defined. Neudorf is once again the pacesetter. Nelson.picE CanterburyB New Zealand (South Island) Sporadic attempts at viticulture were made in the Canterbury region from the earliest days. I have recounted how French settlers made wine from vineyards planted near Akaroa on Banks Peninsula in the 1840s, although it is not clear how much (if any) was sold commercially. In the 1940s W H Meyers built a small winery called Villa Nova, but gave up after his vines failed to crop adequately. Interest was rekindled in the 1970s when English-born Dr David Jackson joined the horticulture depart for all but a handful of wine fanatics, it is through initial exposure to Montana and Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc that the door has been opened. Yet just as David Wynn ventured into Coonawarra in South Australia on the basis of an extremely sober and cautious report, which pointed out that if all else failed the property could be used for grazing, it was no flash of divine inspiration which led Montana into Marlborough in 1973. Marlborough was chosen partially because Hawke s Bay was consi dered too expensive (though one is left to speculate how much more Montana had to pay per hectare for its 1990 entry into Hawke s Bay than it would have had to pay in 1973). What is more, Michael Cooper records how the then young DSIR scientist Wayne Thomas was requested by Frank Yukich to obtain second opinions supporting Thomas suggestion that Marlborough should be planted. Confirmation was duly obtained from Professors Winkler, Lider, Berg and Cook , Thomas relates. The initial plant ings were not without their problems: irrigation was initially regarded as unnecessary, a mistaken view which set back early progress significantly. Nor was the area perceived as a premium wine district. Sauvignon blanc and then chardonnay were planted with initial caution, and the first Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc was not made until 1980. Marlborough now has 36 per cent of the nation s plantings and 64 per cent of its sauvignon blanc, with the latter increasing at a rapid rate. B ut it is not a single variety region: Montana s success with its sparkling wine Lindauer led to the 1988 formation of the joint venture with Champagne Deutz and to the release of the first Deutz Marlborough Cuv e in September 1990. As if to prove the point, it was not long before Corbans joined the chorus with Amadeus, a M thode Champenoise wine which has had even greater show success than Deutz Marlborough Cuv e. Then there is the coloratura soprano of Cellier Le Brun, the bass of Cloudy Bay Pelorus and the recently arrived tenor of Domaine Chandon. Chardonnay was relatively slow to take off, pinot noir even slower. In both instances clonal selection was a major limiting factor, and to a degree still is. There is no question the best is still to come from these two varieties (when used to make table wine) with pinot having the furthest to go. Riesling is the forgotten child here as in other parts of New Zealand, but in all except the most cruel vintages produces lovely wine. Only in the Awatere Valley does it seem reasonable to expect much from cabernet sauvignon, but the earlier-ripening merlot offers much better prospects. Likewise, the deceptively flat topography of the Wairau Valley initially obscured the fact that there is considerable mesoclimatic (site climate) variation within the valley, with shifts both east west as well as north south. Rainfall, cold air drainage, markedly differing soil structures and differential watertables all play a role in determining the suitability of a given block for a given variety. Whether the recent spate of plantings has taken full cognisance of this variation remains to be seen; I suspect the answer is no. But soaring land prices, a market with a seemingly insatiable appetite for grapes, and city investors intoxicated with the idea of growing grapes and making wine, is a potent cocktail. However, this is mere froth and bubble around the edges. The future prosperity of the New Zealand wine indu stry is inextricably linked with that of Marlborough. By 1999 it will have almost 40 per cent of New Zealand s vineyards; 25 years earlier it had none. Like any cool-climate region, some vintages will pose real challenges to its vignerons, and, as I have suggested, not every hectare is necessarily suited to viticulture in the first place. But, taken as a whole, it ranks as one of the premier viticultural regions in Australasia, affording the opportunity to produce high-class wines at inter nationally competitive prices. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 31'S, 173 57'E Blenheim, Marlborough Subregions Wairau Valley and Awatere Valley (Marlborough). Climate The climate is undeniably cool, at the lower end of the spectrum for the major grape growing regions of the world; without doubt the saving grace is the abundant sunshine (7.8 hours per day) of the relatively dry summer. The meagre rainfall falls between October and April, making irrigation essential on all except the most favoured sites. Wind is a problem in some years, as it is in most of New Zealand, but birds are not. Until the 1990s it was thought that widespread frosts were unlikely between 1 October and 30 April, but subsequent events have (unhappily) proved otherwise. Spring frosts are a problem which confronts grape growers in many cool parts of the world, and are combatted with various means, principally by water being sprayed over the vines. Autu mn frosts are both rarer and harder to combat (air dispersal by helicopters is one response) and it is these which have caused problems in Marlborough. Once they have caused the leaves to fall, grapes have to be picked regardless of their ripeness. Statistics Heat degree days: 1152 Sunshine hours per day: 7.8 Annual rainfall: 740 mm Growing season rainfall: 300 mm Mean January temperature: 17.7 Harvest: Mid late March for sparkling wine production, through to late April early May for cabernet sauvignon. Soil The soils of the Wairau Valley are extremely variable, from clay to stony gravel, with inconsistent patterns shaped by the meandering course of streams and rivers running down over the ages from the surrounding mountains. The distribution of gravels, stones and fines is laterally and vertically irregular, making vine vigour (and water requirement) difficult to predict. The more stony areas are excessively well drained (and have a particularly high supp lementary water requirement), and none are particularly fertile. While they do not make viticulture easy, the soils are clearly a major contributor to quality. Principal Grape Varieties Sauvignon blanc: 927 ha Chardonnay: 625 ha Pinot noir: 201 ha Riesling: 178 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 136 ha ller thurgau: 134 hectares Semillon: 107 ha Merlot: 86 ha Other: 154 ha Total: 2548 hectares Principal Wine Styles Sauvignon Blanc: Grove Mill, Hunters, Jackson Estate, Nautilu s Estate, Selaks, Vavasour and Wairau River all regularly produce wines of extreme distinction, Seresin the new arrival. Chardonnay: Notwithstanding the enormous growth in plantings and production, and the array of quality producers, I strongly suspect we will see a continuing improvement in the quality of Marlborough s Chardonnay. This will be driven in part by a marked shift in the clonal selection base: the once dominant Mendoza clone will be outranked by new clones by 1999; alr eady these are an important part of the mix. Even the other pre-existing clones (4 and 5) are increasing in popularity compared to Mendoza. The bottom line will be better balanced grapes (chemically and organoleptically) for the winemaker to work with. More subtle, elegant and unforced wines will result, although it is hard to fault the present-day offerings of Cloudy Bay, Corbans Cottage Block, Grove Mill, Hunters, Seresin, Vavasour and Wither Hills. Riesling: Riesling deserves a better fate, but in few regions more so than in Marlborough. For except in the impossible vintages (such as 1995) it produces a glorious wine if given half a chance, with a haunting combination of delicacy and power, of floral spice and lime aromas and flavours, and exceptional length of flavour. High acidity necessitates the use of a little residual sugar, but that only adds to the appeal of the wine. The many fine producers are headed by Grove Mill, but Corbans, Framingham, Hunters, Merl en and Wither Hills are worthy competitors. Pinot Noir: Like Chardonnay, fast emerging from the ruck as a table wine with the emergence of better clones replacing those such as Bachtebel. Much of the production still goes, and will continue to go to sparkling wine, but there is no doubt Marlborough can and will produce increasing quantities of world class Pinot Noir. Fromm Winery is the resident pacesetter, Giesen the non-resident co-leader, but watch this space for (among othe rs) Cloudy Bay and Corbans. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon: Although there is presently more cabernet sauvignon than merlot planted, it will not always be so: cabernet plantings will decline, while merlot will increase. Both varieties do best in the Awatere Valley, with Vavasour a doughty champion, but Corbans shows what merlot (in particular) can achieve in the Wairau Valley. Sparkling Wines: This is unequivocally the best region for the production of sparkling wine in New Zealand, and arguably as good as any in Australia. An early tendency to the baroque has been overcome, although there is a tremendous diversity in style ranging from the pristine clarity (and perhaps simplicity) of Montana Lindauer through to the magnum opus productions of Cloudy Bay Pelorus and Cellier Le Brun. Corbans Amadeus, Domaine Chandon, Montana Deutz Marlborough Cuv e, Hunters, Nautilus and Selaks add their impressive quality to the mix. D Marlb.picE OtagoB New Zealand (South Island) It is hard to imagine a region which could more comprehensively challenge the usefulness of climatic statistics. If one were to accept at face value the Queenstown HDD summation of 672 and the MJT of 15.6 C, grape growing would appear to be impossible. In fact this is by no means the situation. The reasons why this is the fastest growing wine region in New Zealand are both numerous and complex. First is the tremendous variation in the terrain of this mountainous district, roughly centred ment of Lincoln College and established trial plantings designed to establish which varieties were most suited to the climate. Not surprisingly, riesling, chardonnay and pinot noir stood out, and dominate plantings today, together with the ubiquitous sauvignon blanc. While site selection adds another dimension, the only variety likely to make any inroads on the main four is pinot gris. Between 1986 and 1996 the region grew rapidly, overtaking Auckland s plantings and moving into a clear f ourth place on the national register. But the pace of growth appears to be slowing; faster growth in Wellington/Waipara and Otago will mean that by 1999 Canterbury and Wellington will be of equal importance, with Auckland and Otago not far behind. There is no obvious reason for this slowdown. Certainly, the climate is extremely cool and the harvest very late, but the long, dry summer and autumn is a substantial help. This is particularly true in the Waipara subregion, where summer tempera tures rise to 30 C or above, the dry autumns created by a rain shadow effect from the nearby mountains. There are three distinct regions: Waipara, West Canterbury/ Burnham and the Banks Peninsula. The wineries break into two groups: the big three of Giesen (the largest), Pegasus Bay (the fastest growing) and St Helena (the elder statesman) on the one hand, and on the other, a much larger number of smaller wineries which are strongly tourist-oriented, most offering a winery restaurant as an added attraction. Although a long way distant, Canterbury shares some things in common with Wairarapa, not the least being alternative names used in and for the respective regions the confusion between Wairarapa, and Waipara being the somewhat sour cream on the cake. But names to one side, Canterbury has the same chameleon ability as Wairarapa to produce very good varietal wines from virtually every main grape. It is not easy to generalise and say which is best: it really does depend on the producer (and, it must be admitted, on the subregion and particular vineyard site). However, perhaps the planting statistics have the last say, with chardonnay and pinot noir joint leaders of the pack. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 01'S, 172 45'E Waipara 37'S, 172 18'E Burnham 100 m Subregions Waipara, Burnham/West Canterbury and Banks Peninsula. Climate This represents the extreme of commercial viticulture in New Zealand: only the early-ripening varieties can be expected to perform well. Christchurch (at the centre of the subregions) has an HDD of 910 and an MJT of 16.4 C, making it substantially cooler than Rheims in Champagne, France. However, some sites claim much higher figures: up to 1140 HDD in Waipara, for example. Annual rainfall varies between 650 mm and 750 mm, with a dry (and hence sunny) summer helping offset the apparent lack of warmth. A major impediment is the risk of spring frosts, particularly i n the Waipara subregion. Statistics Heat degree days: 910 Sunshine hours per day: 6.4 Annual rainfall: 660 mm Growing season rainfall: 280 mm Mean January temperature: 16.4 Harvest: Mid-April early June Soil Because of the varied topography and the geographic spread of the subregions, soils vary greatly. In the central river plain regions, there are alluvial silt loams over gravel subsoils. In the north, on gentle slopes, there are chalky loams rich in limestone, while el sewhere (mainly in the south) there are patches of volcanic and loess soils over rocky subsoils. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 56 ha Pinot noir: 55 ha Riesling: 38 ha Sauvignon blanc: 26 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 11 ha ller thurgau: 8 ha Other: 22 ha Total: 216 ha Principal Wine Styles Pinot Noir: Without question, this is the most important and most convincing wine style of the region. For all that, it has fluctuated in weight, intensity and flavour th with vintage variation and with winemaker experimentation. The saving grace of this style has been authentic varietal flavour, with a combination of cherry, raspberry and plum fruits, allied with a distinctive stemmy/ herbaceous cross-cut. Wellington/Wairarapa has in recent years not only thrown down the gauntlet, but eclipsed the previous claim of Canterbury to be the foremost producer of Pinot Noir in New Zealand, yet it is reasonable to assume the fight is not yet over. By 1999 plant ings of pinot noir will have increased by over 30 per cent, putting it on equal terms with chardonnay. Giesen, Omihi Hills, Pegasus Bay, Sherwood Estate and St Helena Estate are the principal flag-bearers. Chardonnay: The richness and texture of the majority of Canterbury s Chardonnays demonstrate that achieving flavour ripeness is simply not an issue in this climate. Nearly every winery makes a Chardonnay, some with more than one label. Singling out producers is not easy, but in W aipara, Mark Rattray, Omihi Hills, Pegasus Bay, Torlesse and Waipara Springs are generally acknowledged leaders; in Canterbury West, Giesen, St Helena, Sandihurst and Sherwood Estate stand out. Riesling: Giesen Estate and Riesling are virtually synonymous in Canterbury, notwithstanding that for many years one of Corbans best wines of this variety was sourced from Canterbury (and sold under the Robard & Butler label). Giesen makes an array of Rieslings in much the same way as Seifr ied Estate (of Nelson), ranging from intense, lime-accented and bone-dry to luscious botrytised versions, the latter of world class. Sauvignon Blanc: Seemingly an obligatory part of the viticultural landscape wherever one is in New Zealand, and performs as well as one might expect. It may lack the final razor sharp varietal definition it achieves in Marlborough, but is produced in a number of interesting styles, oaked and unoaked, by the region s winemakers, with Pegasus Bay adding a full-flavoured Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend to the repertoire. Other Wines: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer all make attractive white wines, while Glenmark and Pegasus Bay both mount an argument that Cabernet Sauvignon (and Merlot) need not necessarily be excessively herbaceous and thin. The most convincing demonstration of this is given by the Pegasus Bay flagship wine Maestro, which may lack humility but certainly not concentration, extract and ripe flavours. Cantbury.picE Canberra DistrictB It has always struck me as a wry commentary on the unreality of the political hothouse of Canberra that none of the Canberra District vignerons should actually have had a vineyard in Canberra, and even more appropriate that none is a politician. The reason for the territorial exclusion was essentially a pragmatic one, however much the concept might have pleased Lewis Carroll: freehold does not exist within the Australian Capital Territory, and land used for anything other than housing, com on Queenstown. There are mesoclimates that lead to heat summations twice that registered in Queenstown: Rippon Vineyard on the shores of Lake Wanaka has its own weather station which shows summations of up to 1350 HDD, although there is yearly variation on that figure. The second and third reasons are linked: the rainfall is winter/spring dominant, but varies from an exceptionally low 400 mm at Gibbston Valley to 625 mm at Wanaka (making irrigation essential). So not only is summer cloud a rare phenomenon, but there are extremely long summer sunshine hours, in this most southerly grape growing region in the world (at a latitude of 44 42'S). The method of compilation of the HDD summation does not allow for this, while sunshine hours do not of themselves indicate temperature. Thus the third reason is the abnormally high number of hours in which the temperature is over 15 C, indeed over 20 C, in the months of December, January and February. The fourth factor is again linked to the preceding elements: during the summer months this is a particularly warm area, due in part to its continentality. Daytime temperatures over 30 C are quite common far removed from the widespread perception of the area as only one step removed from the Antarctic. The final saving grace is unrelated to climate or topography; it is the tremendous volume of tourist traffic which visits the region year round, attracted by its superb and ever-varied scenery, winter skiing, summer trout fishing and a host of other activities and attractions. Very often it is the wine industry that creates the tourism (the Hunter Valley is a prime example), but here the process has occurred in the reverse order. But it would be wrong to ascribe the continuing astonishing success of Otago simply to tourism. Romeo Bragato (100 years ago), viticulturist Dr Richard Smart and research scientist and winemaker Rainer Eschenbruch all foresaw the potential of the region well before it became a rea lity. And if the rate of growth predicted for the period through to 1999 is maintained at even half the rate for the ensuing five years, Otago may well find itself as the fourth largest region in New Zealand utterly remarkable when you realise that in 1989 it had only 7 hectares of vines. It hardly needs be said that this is a spectacularly beautiful and striking wine region, even by the exceptional standards of New Zealand as a whole. Rippon Vineyard, on the shores of Lake Wanaka, has produced some of the most exquisite photographs ever to appear in wine books (and on their covers), while there are few more spectacularly savage sites than those of Black Ridge and Chard Farm. Gibbston Valley Wines, itself in a picturesque setting, weighs in with New Zealand s largest underground cave cellar (the only other I know of is at Cellier Le Brun, but it is far less striking), and is a major tourist attraction in its own right. The Region in Brief Location and Elevati on 51'S, 170 100 m Subregions Alexandra, Arrowtown, Cromwell and Lake Wanaka. Climate As I explain above, Otago makes a mockery of any simple or single attempt to describe climate. Not only is there significant mesoclimatic (site climate) variation, but the way the heat is accumulated makes Otago unique, and magnifies the impact of vintage variation. Thus while the central 90 days of the growing period are distinctly warm, the overall growing season is short. Both spring and autumn frosts can truncate indeed decimate the season, and make site selection extremely important. Likewise, strong winds can cause havoc during flowering and inhibit summer growth. Finally, the cold night-time temperatures (even in the height of summer) mean acid levels remain high, and further circumscribe varietal choice. Statistics Heat degree days: 850 Sunshine hours per day: NA Annual rainfall: 400 625 mm Growing season rainfall: NA Mean January tem perature: 15.6 Harvest: Early April late May Soil Many of the vineyards are perched precariously on mountainsides or terraces, planted in dark grey schist rock; others on siltier, sandier soils in micro-sized valley floors and on the larger plane of the shores of Lake Wanaka and Lake Hayes. The particular virtue of the rockier soils is their ability to absorb daytime heat and re-radiate it at night. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 56 ha Pinot noir: 50 ha Riesli ng: 15 ha Gewurztraminer: 11 ha Sauvignon blanc: 8 ha Merlot: 3 ha Other: 8 ha Total: 151 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: For the time being chardonnay retains a slender lead over pinot noir as the most widely planted variety, but it is likely to relinquish that lead by the end of the 1990s. This will not effect any shortcoming in chardonnay, which is undoubtedly well suited to the region. Chard Farm (spectacularly with its Judge and Jury, tangy citrus fruit wi th spicy nutty oak), Rippon, Gibbston Valley and Kawarau Estate all make wines with both structure and length, generally with apple and citrus fruit modified by the effects of the full malolactic fermentation through which the wines must necessarily go. Pinot Noir: Otago is no different from any other very cool wine region in experiencing considerable vintage variation, variation which impacts on pinot noir more than any other variety. So the weight and flavour does vary, but curio usly the main problem seems to occur in hotter vintages, when a slightly overripe, stewed character can appear. The best wines notably Gibbston Valley Reserve and Chard Farm Judge and Jury have as much richness, colour and flavour as one could wish for without compromising varietal character. Riesling: The majority of the wineries produce Riesling, and the projections of a 70 per cent growth in plantings through to 1999 suggest that notwithstanding it is a later ripener y are happy to deal with whatever viticultural problems it poses. The style is distinctly European, with minerally/chalky flavours and bracing acidity. Some producers meet this by leaving considerable residual sugar in the wine which is ideal for the general tourist cellar-door trade. Gewurztraminer: A delicately perfumed, faintly spicy wine is produced, with the amount of sweetness varying from one winery to the next. Otago_C.picE CowraB Until 1973, when Cowra Estate planted the first vines in the region, Cowra was best known as the site of Australia s prisoner of war camp for Japanese soldiers and citizens. It was also the scene for a futile mass escape, and today has an attractive memorial garden and museum recording the events of those days. To this day, the rolling hills with their sweeping vistas are predominantly given over to grazing. But since 1973, Cowra has grown enormously in importance as a region, even if gro merce or industry is liable to be rezoned (and the lease terminated) at short notice. In 1997 BRL Hardy showed there was a solution to the problem: simply enter into an agreement with the Territory Government for the erection of a 2000-tonne winery and the establishment of a 250-hectare vineyard, an enterprise which will dwarf all the others. But one has to have the clout of Australia s second largest wine company to achieve an outcome such as this. So the remaining, much smaller, vigner ons cluster just outside the Territory s borders in two groups: in the Yass Valley around Murrumbateman, and along the shores of Lake George. It was indeed within a few hundred yards of the edge of Lake George that Dr Edgar Rick planted the first vines in 1971, and others mainly from the scientific community, most with Doctorates of Philosophy to their credit quickly followed in his wake. By 1974 the Canberra District Vignerons Association had been founded, and now has 17 members. rall, growth has been steady rather than spectacular, and the general quality of the wines has been equally modest. This has been due to three main reasons: first, the virtual absence of qualified winemakers; second, initial lack of understanding of the particular problems posed by the Canberra climate and terroir; and third, the inherent difficulty of small-scale winemaking of white wines. The lack of technical expertise has been partially overcome by the use of consultants (notably at D oonkuna), partially by skills learned on the winery floor (for example at Lark Hill, Clonakilla and Kyeema Estate), although supplemented by external studies at Charles Sturt University, and partially by the acute intelligence and high scientific qualifications of many of the winemakers who strictly speaking are unqualified. But it has to be said that there is still a way to go for many of the wineries. It hardly needs be said the arrival of BRL Hardy will act as a major catalyst for change in the early years of the next century as wines from its development start to come onto the market. In the interim, it is an emphatic vote of confidence in the ability of the region to produce first class table wine. The climatic question has already been addressed: it took a long time for the vignerons to realise to what extent the summer drought made irrigation essential, and having recognised the problem to do something about it. The other learning curve was with respect to the danger of spring frost in sites with poor or non-existent air drainage. Taken together, these problems reduced yields to subeconomic levels without providing any compensating benefit in the form of increased quality. The third problem is in some ways an extension of the first, but is by no means unique to Canberra. It is a simple fact of life that white wine is much harder to make in small quantities than is red wine: it requires much greater discipline and attention to detail, and re quires much more sophisticated plant and equipment. For all that, the overall quality and range of the Canberra District wines has improved greatly in the last fifteen years, and the best wines though few in number can acquit themselves with honour in open competition with those of the rest of Australia s small wineries. How far they can go in the future is anyone s guess, but it is a fair bet BRL Hardy will provide the answer and an equally fair bet it will come through the agency of Chardonnay, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. It may also come through the expansion of vineyards away from the tight cluster surrounding Canberra. There are some first-class viticultural sites in the broader region simply waiting to be developed. Lastly, there is the certainty of greater tourism; the planting by BRL Hardy in the centre of the Canberra racecourse is an intriguing recognition of that fact. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Southern New South Wales Zone S, 149 500 m Subregions Canberra, Lake George, Murrumbateman, Queanbeyan and Yass. Climate With its extremely continental climate, the Canberra District shows just how inadequate a single index of climate can be. If one looks purely at the heat summation (HDD) of 1410 it would lead one to believe that this is a genuinely cool region, but it is not or at least, its wine styles do not suggest it is. A hot dry summer (but with cool nights) gives way to a cool autumn, wi th harvest not infrequently interrupted by significant rain. The major viticultural limitation lies in the very dry spring and summer months. Spring frost has been a problem too, but can be largely avoided with appropriate site selection. Statistics Heat degree days: 1410 Sunshine hours per day: NA Annual rainfall: 630 mm Growing season rainfall: 360 mm Mean January temperature: 20.2 Harvest: Mid-March end April Soil The soils are principally in the hard red duplex group, with brownish clay loam surface soils which are usually shallow. The subsoils are not particularly water-retentive, adding to the need for irrigation. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 16 ha Riesling: 14 ha Traminer: 5 ha Sauvignon blanc: 5 ha Semillon: 3 ha Total white: 43 ha Cabernet Sauvignon: 15 ha Merlot/cabernet franc: 7 ha Pinot noir: 7 ha Shiraz: 4 ha Total red: 33 ha Principal Wine Styles Riesling: For many of the wineries, vies with Cha rdonnay as the most important white wine, and arguably has more personality and typicity. The majority are made in a crisp, gently toasty, dry style, with sweeter styles less favoured than they once were. Botrytis is not a significant factor; in the warmer years, more tropical characters do appear, however. Modest yields ensure that the wines age well in bottle for up to a decade. Helm s and Lark Hill do particularly well with the variety. Chardonnay: The ubiquitous chardonnay does well enough in the region, producing wines of good quality and complexity. Achieving both physiological and technical ripeness is seldom a problem, and botrytis is fairly easily controlled. Soft fig and stone fruit flavours are achieved, which comfortably support reasonably generous use of new oak. Dookuna, Kyeema Estate, Lark Hill are among the leaders. Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon: Attractive, moderately herbaceous wines are made from these varieties, frequently blended, but sometim es with Sauvignon Blanc appearing on its own. The wines have good structure, with the best flavours appearing in the cooler vintages. Brindabella Hills is a winery to follow with the style. Cabernet Sauvignon: Sometimes made as a single varietal wine, but increasingly blended with Merlot; as with all the wines of the region, the varied climatic conditions which prevail from one vintage to the next (and differing approaches in the winery) make generalisations about style more than u sually hazardous. Overall, the weight and extract varies from light, leafy and minty to rich, concentrated and chocolatey. Brindabella Hills, Doonkuna, Helm s, Kyeema Estate and Lark Hill stand out. Shiraz: A variety which is starting to come into its own as part of the general resurgence of interest, with several wineries producing spectacularly good examples, redolent of spice, black cherry and liquorice. It would not surprise to see plantings of the variety increase significantl y over the years. Clonakilla's shiraz (with a touch of Viognier, Rh ne-style) stands out like a beacon. Pinot Noir: Much against the run of play, Lark Hill has had considerable success in the latter part of the 1990s with Pinot Noir, both under its label and as contract maker for Pankhurst Wines. It seems probable that the best results will come in the cooler years, for the style is nothing if not robust, and in the warmer vintages may lose varietal character. Canberra.picE Southern NSWI Hastings RiverB Viticulture and winemaking in the region date back to 1837 when the first vineyard was planted by Henry Fancourt White, a colonial surveyor; by the 1860s there were 33 vineyards in the area. Following federation and the shift to fortified wine production, along with many other wine regions production declined and ultimately ceased in the Hastings in the early years of this century. In 1980 and after 60 years of non-productivity the French-descended Cassegrain family decided to expand into wth has come in sporadic bursts. The 1990s has seen a major expansion, with a number of larger companies (notably Rothbury and Orlando s Richmond Grove) and boutiques such as Brokenwood aggressively planting vineyards. It is primarily a white wine region specialising in full-flavoured, modestly priced Chardonnay (but which in the 1970s was the base for Petaluma s Chardonnay). The vineyards are situated on gentle slopes within a broad valley cut into the western side of the Great Dividing Range by the head waters of the Lachlan and Belubula rivers, which converge into the Lachlan at Gooloogong, flowing into the Murrumbidgee River north of Balranald. As yet there are in fact no wineries operating within the region, all the grapes being processed elsewhere. However, custom crush facilities now exist (the first stage in the winemaking process) and a number of full-scale wineries were on the drawing board in 1998. For practical reasons, and given the rate of growth in planti ngs spreading out to Canowindra, it is only a question of time before Cowra emerges as a fully fledged region with wineries and cellar-door operations which draw tourists, in turn creating demand for more accommodation and tourist infrastructure of all kinds. The principal brands include Arrowfield, Brokenwood, Charles Sturt University, Cowra Estate, Hungerford Hill, Richmond Grove, Rothbury Estate, Windowrie. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Central Ranges Zone 57'S, 148 40'E 380 m Subregions None. Climate The climate is hot and dry, with the Mean January Temperature variously recorded between 23.5 C and 24.4 C, significantly above that of Cessnock (Hunter Valley) or Mudgee. Growing season rainfall is relatively high, but relative humidity is low, reflecting the continental nature of the climate. Spring frosts require appropriate site selection. Statistics Heat degree days: 2130 Sunshine hours per day: 8 Annual rai nfall: 640 mm Growing season rainfall: 350 mm Mean January temperature: 23.8 Harvest: Early March early April Soil The soils are those most commonly found throughout southeast Australia; brownish loamy sand to clay loam on the surface, with red clay subsoils. They are moderately acidic, and likewise moderately fertile. Principal Grape Varieties Semillon: 50 ha Chardonnay: 350 ha Sauvignon blanc: 20 ha Verdelho: 40 ha Riesling: 2 ha Gewurztraminer: 2 ha Total white: 46 4 ha Cabernet Sauvignon: 75 ha Shiraz: 100 ha Pinot noir: 30 ha Merlot: 20 ha Cabernet franc: 40 ha Ruby cabernet: 30 ha Malbec: 10 ha Total red: 305 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: By far the most important wine of the region, invariably generously flavoured and, in most instances, relatively quick maturing. However, Petaluma Chardonnays from the late 70s and the freak Rothbury Estate 1981 Cowra Chardonnay (in particular) demonstrate a largely unrecognise d capacity to develop into ultra-rich, golden, honey and buttered toast styles. In younger wines, yellow peach and ripe fig flavours tend to dominate; by the nature of things, a degree of American oak influence is commonplace. Other White Wines: Sauvignon Blanc, Verdelho, Riesling and Gewurztraminer are the most commonly encountered white wines with both variety and region specified on the label. Semillon and Verdelho show most promise. Red Wines:Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz,I Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc have all been made from time to time, the former two being more suited to the region than the latter. The wines are pleasantly soft and easily accessible. D Cowra.picE Central RangesI HilltopsB The Hilltops region takes in the shires of Boorowa, Harden and Young, with the majority of the vineyards southeast of the latter town, and all situated above the 450 metre contour line. There appear to have been some wineries in the region towards the end of the nineteenth century (run by settlers from Dalmatia on the coast of the former Yugoslavia) which won medals at the Sydney Wine Show, but the modern-day pioneer of the region was the late Peter Robertson who, together with sundry memb real estate and associated viticulture and winery interests. As a result they significantly if improbably expanded the modern viticultural map of Australia. In the process they pioneered new varieties and new ways of managing vineyards in the course of meeting the unique climatic challenges of the region, and have indirectly encouraged the development of other vineyards and wineries along the northern coast of New South Wales. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Northern Rivers Zone 27'S, 152 Subregions None. Climate The vineyards of the Hastings Valley are the only significant new plantings to have been established in Australia over the past 25 years which have not been supplied with irrigation simply because they have no need of it. For this is a region with higher summer humidity and high rainfall, as well as being uncompromisingly warm. It is much affected by the tail end of tropical cyclones moving down the coas t from Queensland, and by its proximity to the warm waters of the Pacific Ocean. The best vintages are those in which the late summer rains are below average, but even in these circumstances the successful outcome of the vintage is dependent on split-second timing of the harvest and upon very careful management of the canopy. The only assured answer has been the propagation of the French hybrid chambourcin, a hybrid which is resistant to the mildews which otherwise pose a constant threat. Much the same applies to the other vineyards dotted along the far north coast. Statistics Heat degree days: 2310 Sunshine hours per day: 7.5 Annual rainfall: 1280 mm Growing season rainfall: 1080 mm Mean January temperature: 22.5 Harvest: Early February March Soil The gently hilly terrain offers a wide choice of aspect and hence response to (and use of) prevailing winds, useful in assisting disease control. The soils vary greatly in fertility, depth and structure, spanni ng rich alluvial soils, volcanic free-draining soils, and running from sandy through to heavy clay. Some are deep, some overlie gravel, others overlie limestone. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 35 ha Semillon: 22.1 ha Sauvignon blanc: 4.4 ha Verdelho: 6.2 ha Total white: 67.7 ha Chambourcin: 25.7 ha Pinot noir: 23.6 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 24 ha Merlot: 16.5 ha Shiraz: 13.2 ha Other: 2 ha Total red: 105 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: The ub iquitous chardonnay dominates plantings here in the same fashion as it does in all newly established grape growing regions of Australia. The style is not unlike a pumped-up version of that of the Hunter Valley, rich, generous and fruitily sweet in a peach/tropical fruit spectrum. It lends itself to manipulation in the winery, and to the expansive use of oak. As one might expect, it matures relatively quickly, but the wines from better (drier) vintages can hold their peak for several years. Chambourcin: This hybrid cross (bred in the nineteenth century) is strongly resistant to mildew, and for this reason has been planted in several New South Wales coastal regions, most notably the Hastings Valley. The intense purple colour of Chambourcin immediately signals its genetic ancestry to the trained eye, and gives the wine a second use as a blend component where colour is thought to be needed by the winemaker. The flavour of Chambourcin is pronounced, falling in the black cherry/plum range in its youth, sometimes with a slight spicy/gamey overlay. As a young, fresh wine it is among the best examples of hybrids produced anywhere in the world. Its Achilles heel is a lack of structure, particularly on the back palate. Semillon: The thin skins and large berries of semillon make it especially vulnerable to the effects of vintage rain. The saving grace (as in the Hunter Valley) is semillon's unusual ability to produce excellent wine at lower than usual su gar (and hence alcohol) levels of around 10 baum . Thus early picking is the response, and the wines show many of the characters of and develop in much the same way as those of the Hunter Valley. As with Chardonnay, weight and intensity can be diluted in high-yielding years. Pinot Noir: The substantial plantings are a testament to the belief of John Cassegrain that in some ways there are parallels to the climate of Burgundy. Both the statistics and the quantity and style of Hastin gs Valley Pinot Noir point firmly in the opposite direction; suffice it to say Pinot Noir produces a light-coloured, quick-developing, earthy style and has in fact frequently been blended with Chambourcin and other varieties to produce a varietally indistinct but pleasant dry red table wine. Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot: Vintages such as 1991 (and to a lesser extent 1993) show what can be achieved with these varieties (and also shiraz). Soft, quite fleshy, wines with abundant berry an d earth flavours are the result; Merlot can be successfully made as a single varietal though sometimes as a cross-regional blend. Hastings.picE Northern RiversI Lower Hunter ValleyB If you were born and bred in Sydney, the Lower Hunter Valley is not only the greatest and the most important wine region in Australia, it is tantamount to the only region. If you come from overseas, and have an interest in wine, it is a fair bet it is one of the two wine districts (the Barossa Valley being the other) you will have heard of prior to your arrival and which you propose to visit. For South Australians, it is an object of derision (with a generous dash of jealousy); for Victori ers of his family, commenced the establishment of his Barwang vineyard in 1975. It was a substantial farming property, with grape growing and winemaking a minor diversification from the core grazing activities. When McWilliam s acquired the 400-hectare property in 1989, only 13 hectares were planted to vines although even then it was by far the largest vineyard in the region. McWilliam s have since increased the plantings to over 100 hectares, while by 1997 newcomer Grover Estate Vineya rd had 55 hectares coming into full bearing. As at 1997 there were seven growers, and two resident wineries: Woodonga Hill and Demondrille. However, both Allandale and Hungerford Hill release wines bearing the Young or Hilltops appellation in the case of Allandale a Riesling, and in the case of Hungerford Hill, a Semillon, and a Young/Cowra Cabernet Sauvignon. The quality of the wines produced by McWilliam s under the Barwang label leaves no doubt that this is an extremely good viticul tural region with a great future, although careful site selection and matching of grape variety with altitude remain of prime importance. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Southern New South Wales Zone 19'S, 148 18'E Young 440 m Subregions Boorowa, Harden and Young. Climate While the climate is unequivocally continental, with substantial diurnal temperature variation during the growing season, the altitude at which most of the vineyards are es tablished ensures a long and even ripening period. Heavy snowfalls in winter are quite common, but pose no threat to viticulture; spring frosts, however, do and necessitate careful site selection along ridge tops and upper, well air drained slopes. While substantial rainfall occurs in the growing season, most falls in spring; the dry summer and autumn provide excellent ripening conditions but make irrigation essential. Statistics Heat degree days: 1880 Sunshine hours per day: 8.8 nnual rainfall: 650 mm Growing season rainfall: 310 mm Mean January temperature: 22.5 Harvest: Late March Soil The soils are rich and deep, typically dark red granitic clays impregnated with basalt. While capable of holding water at depth, they are free draining and support strong vine growth. These soils persist along the ridge tops and hillsides which provide the greatest degree of protection against frost. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 17 ha Semillon: 25 h Riesling: 7 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 42 ha Shiraz: 29 ha Other white and red: 83 ha Total: 203 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: As one would expect, the Chardonnays are typically lean and elegant, with citrus and melon flavours merging into more stoney/minerally characters. They lend themselves to subtle oak handling, and give every impression they will age with grace for five years or more. McWilliam s Barwang sets the pace. Semillon: Barwang founder Pet er Robertson produced several memorable late harvest Semillons, but these days the accent is on dry table styles. They are powerful, with excellent mid-palate weight, although are not especially long on the palate perhaps this will come with greater vine maturity. If it does, wines of the highest quality will follow. Shiraz: Arguably the variety best suited to the region, even though the plantings point to cabernet sauvignon. The aromas and flavours are complex, moderately spicy, with a range of chocolate, mint, black cherry and more briary characters. Acidity is good, the tannins supple. Once again, McWilliiam s Barwang is outstanding. Cabernet Sauvignon: Like the Shiraz, a powerful wine, yet neither aggressive nor heavy. The flavours are predominantly cassis/blackcurrant, balanced by more earthy/chocolatey undertones, the tannins quite strong. Long-lived wines seem assured. Hilltops.picE Southern NSWI MudgeeB Mudgee, or Nest in the Hills as the Aboriginals knew it, has always had to live in the shadow of the Hunter Valley and equally live with the knowledge that some of its grape production would be heading over the Great Dividing Range to wineries in that region. For, thanks to its more reliable summer weather and the strength and depth of its reds, it has always represented an insurance policy against a wet and thin Hunter vintage. It has its own particular history. Three German families ans it is an area which arouses a mixture of curiosity and respect. To a disinterested observer (if there is such a person) the most obvious characteristic is the peculiarly Australian beauty of the Valley. In no small measure this comes from the smoky blue of the Brokenback Range, rising threateningly above the nearest vineyards along Broke Road, and distantly though clearly etched as you look back from Allandale and Wilderness Roads but wherever you are, a significant part of the land scape. Apart from the Brokenback Range, the Valley has only the most gentle undulations; the vineyards are concentrated on the southern side, and the Barrington Tops, on the northern side, are out of sight. So there is that feeling of open, endless, timeless space so special to Australia. Under the pale blue summer sky, the dark, glistening green of the vines is a stark contrast to the patterns of straw, yellow and golden grass and the more olive tones of the gum trees. Attesting to the m odest rainfall, which in any event tends to come in erratic heavy bursts, the grass is brown through much of the year, tenuously greening in autumn and spring. The brown landscape hints at what the statistics say loud and clear: the Hunter Valley is an unlikely place in which to grow grapes. But when vineyards were trialled across the State in the nineteenth century the situation was different. The coastal fringe (around Sydney) was too wet and too humid, and if one moved too far west, sp ring frosts could pose threats, even though some distinguished wines were made at Rooty Hill and Smithfield until the 1950s and 1960s. More importantly, overall soil fertility on the previously unfarmed Hunter Valley was high, and the modern diseases of downy and powdery mildew were unknown. Also, the European experience suggested the more heat, the better: it did not occur to anyone that there might be too much warmth. Finally, there has been speculation that rainfall patterns then were d ifferent from those of today. So it was that the Hunter Valley came to dominate viticulture in New South Wales extremely rapidly, although once again there are curious historical quirks. All the early vineyards were established well to the northeast of where they are located nowadays; it was not until the 1860s that the first vignerons came into the Rothbury and Pokolbin subregions, where many of the Lower Hunter vineyards of today are to be found. History also reveals that at the Paris Exhibition of 1855 (which led to the 1855 classification of the great Bordeaux wines that stands to this day) James King of Irrawang Vineyard had his sparkling wine said by the judges to have a bouquet, body and flavour equal to the finest champagnes served at the table of Napoleon III during the closing ceremony. Another fascinating snippet is that although most of the wines were named by variety and vintage, H J Lindeman (the founder of Lindemans) produced what I can but guess to be Australia s only Lachryma Christi, far from the slopes of Mount Vesuvius. The Hunter Valley has long since been supplanted by Griffith as the largest producer, but it remains in quality by far the most important region. Nonetheless, it has been an area of cyclical prosperity and depression. One would be brave, indeed foolish, to deny the possibility of a future recession, but it is improbable. The Hunter Valley wine industry of today is inextricably bound up with tourism. It was the w ineries that brought the tourists in the first place starting in the mid-1960s but today more dollars are spent on tourism (meals, accommodation and so on) than on wine: the Lower Hunter Valley has no equal in Australia for the abundance of first class accommodation, restaurants, golf courses and general tourist facilities. It is this ready-made market that sees the cellar-door sales outlets of the wineries full from daybreak to dusk, and which provides that all-important cashflow for the small winery in particular. From the outside looking in, it is an ideal lifestyle (the reality is a little less perfect), and we will see more, rather than fewer, wineries in the future. So there is a mix of the big and the small, the new and the old, the professional and the amateur; all are geared to make the visitor welcome, and almost all succeed. For all that, it has to be said that from a viticultural viewpoint the Hunter Valley is a difficult and often capricious place in whic h to grow grapes. There are larger areas of unsuitable soil (hard, acidic clay) than there are good soils, and the climate can only be described as perverse. Winter droughts are common, as is the propensity for such rain as there is to fall shortly prior to or during vintage. All things considered, it is truly remarkable that so many excellent wines (notably Semillon) are produced in the Hunter Valley with such regularity. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Hunter V alley New South Wales Zone 50'S, 151 21'E Subregions Broke/Fordwich, Pokolbin and Rothbury. Climate One of the warmest, most humid and wettest climates in Australia. Of the 750 mm annual rainfall, 530 mm occurs between October and April, affecting most vintages. However, the rain, the humidity, the afternoon cloud cover and weak sea breezes all operate to reduce the impact of the heat that would otherwise seriously hamper the production of quality table wine. Agai nst the odds, the Hunter Valley succeeds, and does so magnificently in years such as 1965, 87 and 91 to name a few. Statistics Heat degree days: 2070 Sunshine hours per day: 7.3 Annual rainfall: 7450 mm Growing season rainfall: 530 mm Mean January temperature: 22.7 Harvest: Mid-January early March Soil The soils vary widely, from friable red duplex soils (Dr2.23, 2.33 and 2.43), through to deep friable loam soils (Um6.11) such as one sees around the Tyrrell s winery, and at Lake s Folly and McWilliam s Rosehill. The painful lessons of 1968 to 1988 are that much of the poorer soil, with heavy clay subsoils and poor drainage, is simply not suited to viticulture. Acidity has recently been recognised as an additional problem in restricting yields. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 475 ha Semillon: 436 ha Verdelho: 96 ha Other white: 142 ha Total white: 1149 ha Shiraz: 449 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 163 ha Pinot noir: 85 h Other red: 32 ha Total red: 729 ha Principal Wine Styles Semillon: In time, Semillon will be regarded as the great wine of the Lower Hunter. It demands time in bottle, to build from a thin and vaguely grassy youth to a honeyed, nutty, buttery/toasty mouthfilling richness at 10 20 years of age. Tyrrell s, McWilliam s Mount Pleasant and Lindemans are the best of the major producers, and Allandale and Brokenwood are the best of the small wineries. Chardonnay: Chardonnay started its Australia-wide reign when Murray Tyrrell produced the 1971 Vat 47 Pinot Chardonnay. Most wineries today produce a Chardonnay; some are richer, more oaky than others, but all with a peaches and cream cast to their makeup. Opinions differ about the keeping qualities of these wines: if varietal character is unimportant to you, then the deep golden, buttery, viscous opulence of aged Hunter Chardonnay will be extremely satisfying. Shiraz: Shiraz is to Cabernet Sau vignon what Semillon is to Chardonnay. The Hunter Valley imposes its regional stamp on both wines, and the varietal character of Shiraz bends more compliantly than does Cabernet Sauvignon to that stamp. Given that France ne Valley is very much warmer than is Bordeaux (home of Cabernet), that is as it should be. Moreover, Shiraz makes the same transformation in bottle as Semillon, moving from an astringent, angular and spiky youth into a velvety, almost luminous maturity at 20 or even 30 years of age. Lindemans, Tyrrell s, Brokenwood, Draytons and McWilliam s are among the foremost producers. Cabernet Sauvignon: You would never confuse an old Hunter Cabernet Sauvignon with an old Bordeaux. You might well think it was an old Hunter Shiraz, however. After a hiatus of over 30 years, Cabernet Sauvignon was re-introduced to the Hunter Valley by Dr Max Lake at Lake s Folly in 1963 (along with Petit Verdot and Malbec it was relatively common in the golden years of the nineteenth century), and since that time has been planted at almost every vineyard in the valley. It produces an idiosyncratic style; some fine wines are made from it, but other (cooler) regions of Australia are more suited to the variety. Pinot Noir: Some truly great Hunter reds have been made wholly or partially from Pinot Noir wines that say a great deal about the district and absolutely nothing about varietal Pinot Noir. Tyrrell s 1976 and 1981 Pinot Noirs are prime examples; R those with long memories or great cellars will know that the legendary Maurice O Shea made magnificent blends from Shiraz and Pinot Noir, but modern-day winemakers seem to have lost the art. Other: A plethora of other wines are made, either as straight varietals or as blends, of which Verdelho is arguably the most interesting. Hunter_L.picE Hunter ValleyI OrangeB Initially known as the Central Highlands, the Orange region (centred on the slopes of Mount Canobolas) has long been an important orchard area producing apples, pears and cherries for both local and domestic markets. An experimental station was established at nearby Molong in the 1940s, but vines were first planted commercially in 1980 (at Bloodwood Estate); there are now over 25 vineyards in the area. Two major developments in the region will vastly increase its profile and its importan Roth, Kurtz and Buchholz were instrumental in establishing vines from 1858, with the descendants of the first two carrying on viticulture for a century and keeping the tradition alive when all others had abandoned it. The other event of importance was the discovery of gold in 1872. This was nowhere near on the scale of Victoria s gold rush, but was enough to bring people and prosperity to the district until the great bank crash of 1893. Although the vineyard and winery of the celebrate d Dr Thomas Fiaschi continued in production until his death in 1927, and Craigmoor, founded by Adam Roth in 1858, survived until the renaissance of the 1960s, from the 1920s onwards the 55 vineyards which existed in 1893 slowly dwindled. Even when the renaissance came, it was essentially driven by a few energetic enthusiasts. Both through the circumstances of relatively small-scale winemaking and the softly beautiful and intimate nature of much of the scenery the outer rim of hills prov iding a sense of security, and the smaller hills within the perimeter creating mini-vistas and valleys of their own Mudgee has always seemed an especially friendly and welcoming place to visitors. For long it seemed inevitable that much of the increasing grape production would go elsewhere for processing, chiefly to the Hunter Valley, and that most would be lost in generic, non-regional blends. But in July 1997 the tables were turned when Orlando Wyndham closed down its Hunter Valley wi nemaking operations and moved them to its large new winery at Montrose. Yet another indication of change came with the release of Rosemount s Mountain Blue Mudgee label earlier in the same year. And of course district identities such as Bob Roberts have done, and will continue to do, much to support it. Roberts not only makes some of the best red wines in the region, but has turned the Huntington Estate classical music concerts into major events in the New South Wales musical calendar. Th ere are others such as Dave Robertson of Thistle Hill, newly arrived but fast rising star Andrew Harris and Ian MacRae of Miramar who are also most competent ambassadors, and the list certainly does not stop there. If you live in Sydney, and want to get away from it all, Mudgee is the place to go. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Central Ranges Zone 36'S, 149 600 m Subregions Eurunderee, Gulgong and Ilford. Climate Situated as it i s on the western slopes of the Great Dividing Range, Mudgee has a very different climate from its neighbour on the other (coastal) side, the Hunter Valley. Spring frosts and cold nights delay budburst; rainfall and humidity are lower; sunshine hours are greater; and irrigation is essential on all but the most favoured sites. The summer and autumn days are very warm; while harvest is four weeks behind the Hunter Valley, this is by no means a cool region. Statistics Heat degree days: 2050 Sunshine hours per day: 8.0 Annual rainfall: 670 mm Growing season rainfall: 360 mm Mean January temperature: 22.9 Harvest: Late February late March Soil The most common soils (in the duplex group) are similar or identical to those found in many indeed the majority of Australian wine districts: slightly acidic loam or sandy loam topsoils over neutral clay subsoils (Dr2.22, 2.32, 2.42, Dy3.41 and 3.42). These brownish-coloured soils are quite friable and moderately ferti le, and both surface and subsoils are relatively well drained. They are thus highly suited to viticulture, but yields have always been restricted because of insufficient surface or bore water to allow optimum irrigation, and one suspects that acidity may also play an inhibiting role. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 220 ha Semillon: 80 ha Verdelho: 10 ha Sauvignon blanc: 30 ha Riesling: 10 ha Marsanne: 1 ha Total white: 351 ha Shiraz: 250 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 150 ha Merlot: 30 ha Pinot noir: 15 ha Cabernet franc: 10 ha Total red: 455 ha Principal Wine Styles Cabernet Sauvignon: This variety makes Mudgee s best wines, usually as a 100 per cent varietal, but sometimes blended with Merlot (at Huntington Estate) or with Shiraz (by a number of producers). The wines have tremendous depth of colour, and hold their purple-red hues for longer than those of the Hunter, turning brick-red at seven to ten years of age. The generous flavours reflect the warm climate: a melange of tastes of red berry, dark chocolate and (sometimes) eucalypt/peppermint; the tannins are almost invariably pronounced, but are not excessively astringent and are balanced by the fruit generosity. Well made wines demand five years cellaring, and will usually profit from ten. Huntington Estate, Montrose and Thistle Hill have produced the lion s share of the best wines. Shiraz: The wines can be somewhat schizophrenic; some are determined to out-H unter the Hunter, with strong earthy/tarry/leather characters. Other wines are much cleaner and closer to Cabernet Sauvignon, with lush red berry fruits and hints of chocolate. Like Cabernet, it has a five- to ten-year peak, but will fade a little more quickly thereafter. Over the years Huntington Estate, Miramar and Montrose have all produced good wines, with occasional help from Steins and (more recently) spectacular success by Andrew Harris. Chardonnay: This is by far the best-p erforming white wine from the region, consistently producing good, sometimes excellent wine. The flavours are usually in the peach/melon/fig spectrum, but sometimes citric/grapefruit characters emerge, particularly where the maker (such as Miramar) employs barrel-ferment techniques. The wines do go on to develop into rich, regional honeyed White Burgundy styles over a much longer time frame. All Other White Varieties: with the heavily qualified exceptions of Semillon and Sauvigno Ln Blanc perform erratically at best. Fortified wines: A miscellany of styles are made: rich, sweet and chocolatey vintage ports are the best: full-bodied tawnies usually deprived of sufficient cask-age (and hence rancio complexity) are next; and some unusual Muscats (made from the wrong grapes) have a local following. Mudgee.picE Central RangesI Upper Hunter ValleyB When in 1960 Penfolds decided to sell its Dalwood vineyard and winery at Branxton in the Lower Hunter Valley and establish a new operation at Wybong in the Upper Hunter, it was seen as a bold and adventurous move. The disappointment of the following 17 years, culminating in the sale of a by-then sharply reduced vineyard and under-utilised winery to Rosemount Estate, suggested the decision was not only brave but foolish particularly when one takes into account the spectacular success that ce as a wine producer by the turn of the century. The first has been the progressive establishment of a 489-hectare vineyard development (in three stages) known as Little Boomey. It is situated 18 kilometres northeast of Molong on the Euchareena Road, and will produce over 6800 tonnes of grapes per year when in full production. Notwithstanding the fact that it is a syndicated development with a spread of investor shareholders drawn from all over, it is an exceptionally impressive developme nt run with a high degree of professional expertise. All of the production from Little Boomey is being sold under long-term contract to Southcorp. The other equally important development was the announcement in September 1997 that the University of Sydney s Orange Agricultural College had entered into a joint venture with The Orange Wine Company for the construction of a commercial winery on property owned by the College. The winery will have an initial capacity of 1000 tonnes, rising to 3000 tonnes, and a high-quality restaurant, wine tasting and function centre. In addition, new education facilities will support the university s interests in research and continuing education. The winery will provide winemaking services for growers throughout the Orange region, and should lead to the rapid development of a number of new Orange-based brands. Much of the production is sold to wineries outside the region, notably Rosemount Estate, Rothbury, Reynolds Yarraman, Tamburlaine an d Horseshoe Winery. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Central Ranges Zone 15'S, 149 900 m Subregions None. Climate The climate is strongly influenced by and largely dependent on altitude: within 60 kilometres of the town of Orange, one can find viticultural climates varying from very hot (Cowra at just over 2000 heat degree days) to the cold 1200 heat degree day upper slopes of Mount Canobolas (which rises to 1396 metres). Overall, and w ithin the prime viticultural land, mild to warm midsummer mean temperatures, seldom rising above 32 C, are offset by cool to very cool nights during the growing season. The rainfall is winter spring dominant; the three driest months are February, March and April, making supplementary irrigation highly desirable. Wind is both friend and foe, helping reduce the major climatic threat of spring frosts and thus making a northeasterly site exposure desirable, but interfering with fruit set on se nsitive varieties such as merlot and cabernet franc. Other than spring frosts (and climatic aberrations such as light snow in December) the major threat is birds, which have relished the extension of their diet. Statistics Heat degree days: 1309 Sunshine hours per day: 7.5 Annual rainfall: 830 mm Growing season rainfall: 440 mm Mean January temperature: 19.9 Harvest: Mid March early May Soil The lovely, undulating hilly country is of fundamental importance in determining site selection. Reflecting the different geological ages of the parent rock, the soils fall into four main groups: well-drained, friable, deep red-brown clays (derived from basalt) found on Mount Canobolas; deep red-brown-yellow brown clay loams of mixed origin, including volcanic ash (these first two soils promote considerable vigour); red-brown podzolic medium vigour clay loam over a medium clay and shale base interspersed with gravel which assists drainage; and finally, there are patc hes of terra rossa associated with visible limestone at lower elevation. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 103 ha Sauvignon blanc: 12.5 ha Riesling: 1.3 ha Total white: 116.8 ha Shiraz: 67 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 65 ha Pinot noir: 25 ha Merlot: 15 ha Cabernet franc: 5 ha Total red: 177 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: As in so many newly developed regions, by far the most important wine. The style is a neat balance between the fleshy, rich, qui ck-developing warm-climate wine and the ultra-fine, slow-developing, citrus and cashew style of very cool climates. Melon, fig and nectarine flavours are set in a wine of medium weight and pleasantly firm acidity, responding well to, but not relying on, the subtle use of oak and malolactic fermentation. Although there is not a long history, it is reasonable to suppose the wines will respond well to medium-term cellaring. Rosemount, Reynolds Yarraman, Bloodwood Estate, Brangayne of Orange a nd Canobolas-Smith all make Chardonnay well, while Rosemount s Orange Chardonnays have been steady gold medal winners in capital city wine shows. Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot: Usually blended, but sometimes produced as single varietal wines, these leave no doubt whatsoever that the Orange region has a temperate climate. The flavours run the gamut of the sappy/briary/herbaceous/earthy spectrum (though with some dark berry sweetness, of course); are of medium weight and body; and have f ine tannins, all in all quite European in their structure. They can be effectively blended with wines from warmer regions such as Mudgee, the Hunter Valley and Cowra. Sauvignon Blanc: Intense tropical fruit flavours develop when grown at high elevation (above 750 m). The more vigorous soils also produce grapes with a herbaceous character that complements the strong fruit flavours, with Canobolas-Smith to the fore. Shiraz: A recently planted variety showing true varietal fla vours and exceptional colour. The first wine made by Brangayne of Orange showed a near-perfect balance between red cherry fruit and more spicy notes, promising much for the future. Riesling: Limited quantities of ultra-late picked Riesling are made from time to time one was made by Bloodwood Estate from a picking on July 5, long after winter frosts and snow had arrived, and fully deserving the epithet. Malbec: Another idiosyncratic wine style, very successfully made 5 as a Ros by Bloodwood Estate, although the probability is that this is making a virtue of necessity. Zinfandel: Even more quirky than the Malbec, but planted long ago at the Cargo Road winery being rehabilitated by James Sweetapple. One of only four regions in Australia to produce it commercially. Orange.picE Central RangesI Ovens ValleyB Victoria If the vignerons of the Ovens Valley region had had their way, it would have been called the Alpine Valleys, but opposition from elsewhere forestalled that move. It would have conveyed an accurate sense of the often spectacular and beautiful mountain scenery with which the region has been blessed, even if not evoking the charm of the old gold mining town of Beechworth. Perched precariously on a steep hillside, with streets plunging at precipitous and unexpected angles, its stone buildings the McGuigan family made with Dalwood, for this became the starting point of the Wyndham juggernaut. With the wisdom of longer hindsight, the rationale behind the move can be seen as correct, even if some of the particular decisions were not. Notwithstanding that a young German settler named Carl Brecht had planted vines in 1860 at the junction of Wybong Creek and the Goulburn River, and had gone on to make wines that won gold medals at international shows throughout the 1870s, viticultu re ceased in the region around 1900 to 1910, so there was effectively no viticultural experience for Penfolds to draw on. It took much trial and error, not only by Penfolds but also by Arrowfield, which did not come on the scene until 1969, to establish that this was white wine country first and foremost, and more particularly that the staple red variety of the Lower Hunter shiraz is basically unsuited to the area. It also became apparent that irrigation was absolutely essential, and that site (and soil) selection was as critical as it is in the Lower Hunter. With appropriate management, site and varietal selection, grape growing in the Upper Hunter is economically viable more so, indeed, than in many Lower Hunter locations. Nonetheless, the growth in the region has gone down a markedly different track from that of the Lower Hunter. Rosemount Estate has gone from success to success, but these days is a truly national company, utilising grapes grown across the lengt h and breadth of the country. (Arrowfield has followed suit, but on a much smaller scale.) On the other side of the coin, Lower Hunter wineries have become important shareholders, either owning vineyards or as grape purchasers. But neither approach has given the Upper Hunter much focus or personality, something underlined by the continued dearth of small wineries and also by the decision not to seek recognition as a Region under the Geographical Indications legislation. I have taken leav e to regard it as a separate region to the Lower Hunter, and hardly imagine I will have to justify that decision. It seems to lie at the end of a vinous road that heads nowhere, and is thus rarely travelled. Arguably, this pretty area deserves better. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Hunter Valley Zone 15'S, 150 250 m Subregions Denman, Jerrys Plains, Merriwa, Muswellbrook and Scone. Climate The all-important difference from the Lower Hunter is the lower rainfall: 620 mm compared with 750 mm. As in the Lower Hunter, January and February are the two wettest months, with rain ever-likely to interfere with vintage. In this context, the lower total rainfall is an advantage, but it does mean that irrigation is essential. The heat summation (at Muswellbrook) is even greater than that of the Lower Hunter, reflecting the lack of the afternoon sea breezes which slightly temper the latter district. Statistics Heat degree days: 2170 Sunshine hours per day: 7.5 Annual rainfall: 620 mm Growing season rainfall: 400 mm Mean January temperature: 22.3 Harvest: Mid-January early March Soil As the soils indicate, the vineyards are much closer to the river systems, notably the Hunter and Goulburn rivers, but also tributaries (such as Giants Creek), framed by rocky hillsides that give an often wild touch of beauty to the backdrop. Well-drained and moderately fertile black silty loams (Um6.11), overlying alk aline dark clay loam, are the key to the success of the region from a viticultural standpoint. Red-brown duplex soils (Dr2.23, 2.33 and 2.43) closer to those of the Lower Hunter are also common, but are better drained and less acidic. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 871 ha Semillon: 430 ha Sauvignon blanc: 50 ha Traminer: 45 ha Verdelho: 40 ha Riesling: 20 ha Total white: 1456 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 20 ha Shiraz: 15 ha Merlot: 10 ha Cabernet franc: 6 ha Ruby cabernet: 5 ha Total red: 56 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: In no other part of Australia do two grape varieties so utterly dominate plantings as do chardonnay and semillon in the Upper Hunter. After seeming to pause for breath at the end of the 1980s (when plantings had reached 169 hectares, still well short of semillon s then 244 hectares), the chardonnay juggernaut has swept all before it. Rosemount Estate s Roxburgh, Giants Creek and Show Reserve releases have no d oubt had a large hand in this: Roxburgh may be produced in limited quantities, but it is an Australian icon nonetheless. It, Giants Creek and the Show Reserve Chardonnay of Rosemount all typify the Upper Hunter style, and indeed traditional Australian style: full in colour, aroma and body. Fast maturing, they soon develop strong, toasty/buttery aromas and flavours over a base of soft, peachy fruit. Rosemount, Arrowfield and Reynolds Yarraman all draw on Chardonnay produced both within and without the district in the latter instance turning to Orange (and Mudgee) for some of their better wines. Semillon: Semillon has made a remarkable comeback; after plantings declined from their 1984 peak of 323 hectares to 244 hectares in 1989, production has risen to an all-time high. Likewise, having flirted with heavily oaked styles, most of the wineries have now concluded that Semillon does perfectly well without it, particularly if given some bottle age. What is more, Upper Hunter Semillon is a little softer and develops more quickly than that of the Lower Hunter, moving closer to the structure and profile of Chardonnay at full maturity. When young, the lemony/herbaceous varietal character of Semillon gives the wine a pleasantly tangy aspect. Reynolds Yarraman has produced some marvellous wines over the years (the best of which have aged well) but all wineries in the region (other than Cruickshank Callatoota) produce a Semillon, most adding a Semillon Chardon nay blend for good measure. Other White Wines: As the statistics show, sauvignon blanc, traminer and verdelho (in that order) are the next more important grapes. None, however, produce wine of distinctive varietal character or particular merit. The response of Arrowfield, Rosemount Estate and others has been to produce cross regional blends, using wine from regions more suited to the varieties in question, simultaneously adding to the character and quality of the wine. Hunter_U.picE Hunter ValleyI BallaratB Victoria Grapes, wine and gold provided the potent blend which drove Victoria to extraordinary prosperity in the second half of the nineteenth century. In turn, the regions at the epicentre were Ballarat and Bendigo, each now with rich legacies in the form of historic buildings and mine sites to entertain a constant stream of tourists. Phylloxera struck at both regions in the 1890s, putting a sudden and savage end to grape growing and winemaking. Given the cool climate of Ballarat (far colder than and array of exotic (English) trees are a sight to behold in autumn. The region consists of four river basins or valleys, created by the Ovens, Buffalo, Buckland and Kiewa rivers, taking in the more elevated Beechworth subregion in its northeastern corner. It was at Beechworth that the first vines were planted in 1856 by a Mr Rochlitz (who had obtained 95 different varieties from Adelaide) four years after gold was discovered there. Within ten years a wine shop had been opened at Beechwo rth selling various locally produced wines from 40 hectares planted between Beechworth and Yackandandah. By 1891 the area under vine in the Beechworth, Bright and Yackandandah shires had reached 660 hectares, producing over a million litres of wine each year. But from this point on production declined, at first gradually, then more quickly; by the end of the First World War the vines had all gone. Phylloxera had done its grim reaper work here as elsewhere. The first signs of recovery came in 1945 when Vin Capriotti established 2 hectares at Everton Hills with cuttings obtained from Chateau Tahbilk. Brown Brothers acquired the property in 1950, expanding the plantings to 17 hectares; I drank my last bottle of 1961 Brown Brothers Everton Hills when it was almost 30 years old, and still going strong. The low yields of Everton Hills, however, led to the property being sold in 1978 and going out of production. The next new planting (of 2 hectares) was at Merriang in 1969; othe r growers followed in 1980, the Bailey family progressively planting 40 hectares. The Michelini family pioneered the Buckland Valley in 1982, now with 40 hectares of established vineyard. In the 1980s Steven Morris (Pennyweight Winery), Rick Kinzbrunner (Giaconda), Barry Morey (Sorrenberg), Ron Mullett (Rosewhite) and Ken Boynton (Boynton s of Bright) all established vineyards and wineries. The Kiewa River Valley, too, was developed, with vineyards established by the Cicante and Minutello families. The diversity of climate and of growing conditions within the Ovens Valley is wholly driven by altitude, ranging as it does between 150 metres and well over 300 metres. So it is that full bodied red wines are produced at the lowest levels witness the once famous and now discontinued Wynns Ovens Valley Burgundy with both style and the grape variety changing as the altitude increases. Giaconda, a tiny winery but with an international reputation, excemplifies the change prod ucing as it does Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of exceptional quality. But it is by no means in the highest or coolest part of the Ovens Valley, however much it means that viticulture is here to stay. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation North East Victoria Zone 21'S, 146 43'E Bright 301 m 33'S, 146 45'E Myrtleford 240 m 21'S, 146 21'E Wangaratta 150 m Subregions Ovens Valley, Buckland Valley, Kiewa Valley, Buffalo Valley and Beechworth. Climate The two key climatic elements temperature and rainfall are directly related to altitude. The annual rainfall at Wangaratta (150 m elevation) is 638 mm; at the Ovens Research Station it is 1050 mm; while at Bright (300 m) it is 1218 mm. Similarly, average monthly temperatures fall with increasing elevation (although aspect and slope significantly affect the climate of individual vineyards). Thus the HDD summation at 200 m is 1536; at 350 m it falls to 1319. As with all alpine areas, the climate is strongly continental, with spring frost the major viticultural hazard, followed by autumn frost prior to harvest. Statistics Harvest: End February mid-April Soil The soils in the four major valleys are all formed on river deposits from similar rocks, mostly granite from the Ordovician period. Many different subtypes exist, but all have good structure, ranging from sandy loams to red-brown duplex soils. The common feature is their above-average fertility, which i mposes the need for vigour control in most sites and which also promotes the generally high yields. Only in the hill country around Beechworth does vigour cease to be a factor, with lesser fertility and lower summer rainfall inducing some stress. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay Riesling Pinot noir Shiraz Cabernet sauvignon Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Produced both for sparkling and table wine end-use, the style (and use) in part depending on the altitud e at which it is grown. Its Sparkling use means anonymity; the leading table wine maker is Giaconda, the wine of which is as refined and complex as it is ageworthy. A classic. Sorrenberg and Boynton s also produce pleasant wines. Pinot Noir: A virtual repeat of Chardonnay, except that Giaconda stands separate and apart from all the others, producing wine which has a cult status equal to that of Bass Phillip and which it deserves. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz: Boynton Lgas done best, with support from all the other wineries. The style can rustic, but has flavour to burn. North East VictoriaI BendigoB Victoria Whether vines preceded or followed the discovery of gold at the end of 1851 is not clear, but in 1864 there were more than 40 vineyards. By 1880, 216 hectares supported over 100 wineries a term which one must suppose included a lean-to at the back of the house containing a few wine barrels and a motley assortment of Heath Robinson-inspired pieces of winemaking equipment. Phylloxera heralded a brutal end to winemaking when it arrived in 1893, but no doubt the bank crash of the same year that of Bendigo) it is probable that the level of winemaking would have decreased, and possibly ceased in any event, but we shall never know. In 1971 Melbourne businessman and bon vivant Ian Home established Yellowglen, planting 3.5 hectares of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz between then and 1975 a strange beginning for what is now one of Australia s leading producers of sparkling wine as part of the Mildara Blass empire. It did not take long for the realisation that the region was too cold for these red varieties, and for those who have come along since to focus instead on developing chardonnay, pinot noir and a little pinot meuniere. Yellowglen continues to have its operational centre in Ballarat, with an attractive cellar-door and picnic area, but almost all its grapes are grown elsewhere. The other two operating wineries are particularly small, and as at 1997 the region was well short of satisfying the minimum requirements for formal registration under the Geog raphic Indications legislation. However, the local association is much better organised than many, and registration will no doubt follow quickly once the 500-tonne minimum is reached by the 20 vineyards in the district. First time visitors to the region will find it hard to drag themselves away from the town of Ballarat, by far the grandest testimonial to the glory of the gold days. Many of its finest buildings have been preserved intact; all are immaculately maintained. It is not hard to wonder whether you have stumbled onto an extremely expensive movie set, so authentic and palpable is the sense of history. Ballarat s trams, too, help set the scene. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Western Victoria Zone 35'S, 143 437 m Subregions None. Climate Those who watch the television weather reports for Victoria will know how frequently Ballarat rates mention as one of the coolest parts of the State in both summer and winter. Only Drumborg and parts of Macedon are as cool (or colder on some measures). Spring frosts demand careful site selection, as Yellowglen found out to its cost, and a northerly exposure is highly desirable. The saving grace is a relatively high number of sunshine hours. Statistics Heat degree days: 1110 Sunshine Hours Per Day: 7.9 Annual Rainfall: 720 mm Growth Season Rainfall: 310 mm Mean January Temperature: 18.5 Harvest: Early April late May Soil The soils vary from greyish g ranitic sands to heavier and sandy clay forms, generally of low to moderate fertility. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 20 tonnes Sauvignon blanc: 2 tonnes Total white: 22 tonnes Pinot noir: 28.5 tonnes Cabernet sauvignon: 8 tonnes Shiraz: 4.5 tonnes Merlot: 3.5 tonnes Total red: 44.5 tonnes Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Clearly the best suited white variety, and almost the sole occupant of the field. The cool climate dictates the style, cris p and melon flavoured. Dulcinea (which also produces a lively Sauvignon Blanc) and Mount Beckworth both produce well-made, elegant wines with suitably subtle oak and acidity. Pinot Noir: While much of the pinot noir in the region was previously directed to sparkling wine (and of high quality) more is now being used to make table wine and climatically it is quite clear the region is better suited to the earlier ripening pinot noir than to cabernet sauvignon or even merlot. Dulcinea, Eastern Peake, Mount Beckworth and Whitehorse Wines all produce interesting wines. Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon: While the district as a whole does not favour these varieties, the Mount Beckworth Vineyards (in the north of the region) are slightly warmer, and do produce powerful black cherry and liquorice Shiraz, and a pungent leafy/mulberry Cabernet Merlot, both of good quality. Western VictoriaI Central Victorian High CountryB Victoria While the name of this region may be new (previously the Strathbogie Ranges), and while there is no evidence of grape growing in the last century, many of its vineyards are well known. The two best known are Delatite, established in 1968, and Mount Helen, about 1975 (its first wine was made in 1979). Mount Helen remains the largest vineyard (83 hectares), followed by Plunkett Wines (77 hectares), a major grape grower which started producing wines under its own label in 1991. Next comes th and the move to fortified wines also played their part in the cessation of winemaking in the region. A gap of over 60 years followed until Bendigo pharmacist Stuart Anderson planted vines at Balgownie in 1969, and within five years had captured the imagination of wine drinkers from Melbourne to Sydney with his startling red wines wines with a colour, character and strength which were to set the pace for the many who followed in his path. And in the sprawling Bendigo district there were indeed many. For a start, it has a number of quite distinct subregions: Bridgewater, Graytown, Harcourt, Heathcote and Redesdale. Dense eucalypt forest and undulating hills mean each vineyard hides in its own little enclave: many are humble, none grand, but almost all have a distinctive charm, perhaps from the stone used in their construction, perhaps from the way they look out over their vineyards, perhaps from their Lilliputian scale or even from the sheer improbability that wine coul d actually be made there. The countryside is undulating, with small, generally dry, creek beds relatively common, but with little significant variation in altitude. Some care is needed in site selection to minimise the risk of spring frost, but the major limitation for viticulture is the absence of readily available water for irrigation. The velvety richness of the red wines (principally Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon) combined with elegance makes Heathcote one of the most desirable addre sses in the book. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Central Victoria Zone 45'S, 144 390 m Subregions Bridgewater, Graytown, Harcourt, Heathcote and Redesdale. Climate The climate varies significantly in the various subregions. In the demographic centre (the town of Bendigo) the HDD summation is 1708 (at the top end of the warm climate group) while at Heathcote the figure is 1593, at the middle of the same group. It is quite possible that individual vineyards could report even greater variations. Rainfall, too, varies, but is a modest 500 mm at Bendigo rising to 625 mm at Harcourt. The pattern is essentially winter spring dominant, and irrigation is essential if economically viable crop levels are to be assured. Indeed, water is the principal limiting factor in the development of additional vineyards, the prime reason why plantings of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon (in particular) are not far greater than they are, for this is prime red wine country. There is little suitable underground water, and surface run-off into dams constructed from suitable soils is the principal and not always the most viable solution. Statistics Heat degree days: 1579 Sunshine hours per day: 8.7 Annual rainfall: 546 mm Growing season rainfall: 267 mm Mean January temperature: 21 Harvest: Mid-March end April Soil The majority of the soils fall in the common southeast Australian group of brownish loamy sand to c lay loam soils over a stony clay base (Dr2.22, 2.23 and 2.33); however, there are significant patches of quartz gravel subsoils which have (or had) the potential to be gold bearing. Overall, the soils are acidic and fairly low in nutrients, needing the application of both lime and gypsum and of supplementary water if reasonable yields are to be obtained. It is doubtless the tendency to low yields which provides the red wines with such depth and strength. Principal Grape Varieties hardonnay: 25 ha Riesling: 12 ha Semillon: 2 ha Total white: 39 ha Shiraz: 45 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 43 ha Pinot noir: 13 ha Cabernet franc: 7 ha Merlot: 2 ha Total red: 110 ha Principal Wine Styles Shiraz: This is red wine country first and foremost. All the red wines have a distinctive mint (in the eucalypt-to-peppermint spectrum) character evident right across Victoria (from Great Western to the Pyrenees and onwards, in slightly diminishing strength, to th e Goulburn Valley) and which was first noted 100 years ago. Its intensity varies from vintage to vintage, and from wine to wine, but it is seldom entirely absent. This apart, Shiraz is the great red wine of the region, spectacularly so in the Heathcote subregion and at nearby Great Western. Cabernet Sauvignon: The wines have great depth of colour, a rich texture with abundant tannins, and fruit flavours ranging from faintly tobacco/herbaceous (in the coolest years), through to the far more common blackberry/blackcurrant flavours. They are long-lived, seldom showing their best inside seven to eight years. Many of the wineries produce Cabernet Sauvignon with Balgownie Estate and Passing Clouds among the most distinguished. White Wines: Jasper Hill produces a creditable Riesling, while the Heathcote Winery has over the years produced Chardonnay of merit. With insatiable world demand for red wines, it would not seem there is any likelihood of white wines becomi ng more than a sideshow. Bendigo.picE Central VictoriaI Far South West VictoriaB Victoria A remote region which might be far better known were it not for the arbitrary placement of the Victorian South Australian State boundary, and which put Coonawarra, Padthaway, Naracoorte and Mount Gambier (all at corresponding latitudes) just within the South Australian (rather than the Victorian) boundary. Viticulture was pioneered at Drumborg by Seppelt in 1964, the year after it took the same step at Padthaway. Accurately, Karl Seppelt conceived Padthaway as a reliable, relatively warmer e 40-hectare vineyard of Domaine Chandon (established in 1994), then Delatite (24 hectares) and Murrindindi Vineyards (15 hectares). While a relatively large region, it is unified by its elevation and by the hilly topography. Much of the region is above 300 metres, with peaks to 1800 metres, although most of the vineyards are planted between 300 and 500 metres. Since 1990 six new vineyards have been established, and between 1992 and 1997 plantings are estimated to have increased by 300 p er cent. It seems likely that this rate of growth will continue through to the year 2000 and beyond. Overall, it is a premium to super-premium wine-producing area. Yields are significantly lower than (for example) those of the King Valley, and the cool climate produces generally fine wines. Elevation is a key factor in determining style, and varies considerably throughout. With the qualified exception of Delatite, which is on one of the ski routes for Victorians, it is off the beaten tra ck for tourists, something which may ultimately prove to be one of its greatest strengths. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Central Victoria Zone 46'S, 145 275 m Subregions None. Climate The climate is strongly influenced by altitude, but the picking dates and the wine styles leave little doubt that this is a very cool region overall. Rainfall varies from 700 mm to 1000 mm on the northwest border to over 1400 mm in the far southeast and temperature (and heat summation) likewise varies considerably. The much photographed Delatite Vineyard, with a full summer canopy of leaves and snow-clad mountains in the background illustrates the point, and most of the vineyards experience winter snows. As in all high country, site selection is of paramount importance. North and northeast facing slopes offer the best chance of fully ripening the grapes, while care must also be taken to ensure the slope does not end in a gully or val ley which will trap cold air and increase the likelihood of frost. Statistics Heat degree days: 1460 Sunshine hours per day: 9.2 Annual rainfall: 1100 mm Growing season rainfall: 350 mm Mean January temperature: 20.7 Harvest: Early April late May Soil The soils are varied, although the region as a whole is geologically described as the physiographic region of the East Victorian Uplands of dissected high plateaux established on various resistant rocks. These give rise to soils which range from granitic and granodiorite to sandstone, siltstone, claystone, limestone and dolomite. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay Sauvignon blanc Riesling Semillon Cabernet sauvignon Shiraz Pinot noir Principal Wine Styles Sparkling: Considerable amounts of the chardonnay and pinot noir have been utilised in the making of sparkling wine by Domaine Chandon, Yellowglen and Southcorp, although no wines with either a Strathbogie or Victorian High Countr y appellation have been released. Nonetheless, the quantity was sufficient encouragement for Domaine Chandon to establish its own substantial vineyard near Violet Town in the Strathbogie Ranges in 1994, and further sparkling wine dedicated plantings by others are proposed. Chardonnay: Clearly the foremost table wine of the region, with a long history under the Mount Helen label, and more recent success by Daiwa Nar-Darak (a Japanese-owned vineyard with contract winemaking which won the prestigious George Mackey Award for best wine exported from Australia in 1995 with its 1994 Chardonnay), Murrindindi and Plunkett. The wines have considerable weight and richness, while still showing flavours in the stone fruit/nectarine/citrus/melon spectrum, and are (relatively speaking) long-lived. Riesling and Gewurztraminer: Superbly fine, crisp and elegant wines are made from these two varieties by Delatite, wines that have an international reputation. Plunkett and Antcl s Chase make somewhat chunkier wines from riesling. Sauvignon Blanc: Tangy, crisp herbal sauvignon blanc are produced by Delatite and Plunkett. They are seldom rich or particularly complex, but do show good varietal character. Cabernet Merlot and Malbec: These are, generally speaking, more marginal propositions than the white varieties and wines. In the warmer vintages Delatite, Murrindindi and Plunkett all do well, occasionally spectacularly so when the eucalypt mint/K%green leaf characters are minimised. Central VictoriaI GeelongB Victoria It will come as a major surprise to many readers to find that 130 years ago Geelong was the most important winemaking district in Victoria, if not Australia. In 1861 there were 225 hectares under vine, and by the end of the decade 400 hectares. It also shares with the Yarra Valley the unusual distinction of being primarily established by Swiss vignerons, drawn to Australia by the Swiss-born wife of the first governor of Victoria. By 1875 the vineyards extended along each side of the valle region for the production of full-bodied table wines, Drumborg as a cool region for the production of sparkling and delicate, aromatic table wines. There are now over 100 hectares of vineyards producing an estimated 800 tonnes in 1997, with three wineries and six vineyards, by far the largest of which is that of Seppelt. While Seppelt does not have a winery in the region, it makes some of its most distinguished table wines (Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon) but is not infrequently matched by Crawford River, where grazier John Thomson has consistently made extraordinarily good wines in limited quantities. It is an area with a unique combination of advantages and disadvantages. At various points along the way, Seppelt was at the verge of giving up and walking away from its vineyard, so poor were the yields and so unripe were the grapes. But it persevered, and as it did so, learnt more and more about the right varieties to grow, row-orientation, canopy control, trellis design and water requirements. While it remains an important source of sparkling wine base material of the highest quality, excellent Riesling can be produced year in year out (as both Seppelt and John Thomson have shown). Thus it is not hard to see why some of the best Pinot Noir table wine that Seppelt has access to comes from Drumborg in the warmer vintages. On a broader perspective, this so-far largely undeveloped region holds much promise for the future. As you move away from the coast th e climate becomes warmer, and there are large tracts of land with similar limestone-based soils to those of the Limestone Coast Zone of South Australia. What is more, there is as yet no significant pressure on the underground water table and little or no salinity build-up problems. It seems meritable that some large vineyards will be progressively established here over the next decade, and the area will become more well known in consequence. The Region in Brief Location and Ele vation Western Victoria Zone 21'S, 141 100 m Subregions None. Climate This is one of the coolest of the wine growing regions of the Australian mainland, and has presented Seppelt with experience in producing quality wines from grapes grown in cold temperatures. The ample number of sunshine hours results in a growing regime not unlike that of the Canterbury Plains of the South Island of New Zealand or Northern European climates such as the Rhine Valley. St atistics Heat degree days: 1300 Sunshine hours per day: 7 Annual rainfall: 850 mm Growing season rainfall: 300 mm Mean January temperature: 17.7 Harvest: Mid-March mid-May Soil This is prime gently rolling, undulating agricultural country, long famous for the quality of its wool, which remains the most important industry. Protection from the wind (which exacerbates the effects of cold temperatures at flowering) is an important consideration, leading to the selection of shelte red north and north east facing slopes wherever possible. The vineyards are mostly widely planted on Cobboboonee basalt soils, a weathered basalt with a gravelly loamy topsoil overlaying red clay. More recent plantings have variously utilised rich black volcanic clays, maritime sandy loam over limestone, and patches of terra rossa over limestone (the last an easterly continuation of the soils of the Limestone Coast Zone of South Australia, most notably Coonawarra). Principal Grape Vari eties Riesling: 25 ha Chardonnay: 15 ha Sauvignon blanc: 4 ha Pinot gris: 2 ha Other white: 2 ha Total white: 48 ha Pinot noir: 23 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 15 ha Pinot meunier: 10 ha Other red: 4 ha Total red: 52 ha Principal Wine Styles Sparkling: The three classic grape varieties of Champagne chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier account for almost half the total plantings, and are largely directed to sparkling winemaking by the Seppelt group, albe it rarely released as a single, regionally designated wine. Seppelt has also been known to make limited quantities of very high-quality table wine from pinot noir during warmer vintages. Riesling: Arguably the best suited grape for the making of table wine (although there have been a handful of extraordinary Gewurztraminers made by Seppelt from vines since removed) and made by all the wineries in the region. Fine, intense, gently lime-accented wines gradually assume more toasty cha racters as they develop in bottle over a decade or more, but do not lose their hallmark elegance. If the volume (or the number of wineries) was greater, this region would likely rank with Australia s best. The occasional Botrytis Riesling simply adds lustre to the overall performance of Riesling here; once again elegance and intensity combine to produce a wine of exceptional quality. Seppelt and Crawford River both excel. Cabernet Sauvignon: The vintage conditions have to be favour able, but when they are cabernet (either alone or blended with merlot and/or cabernet franc) produces a wine with striking similarities to a Classed Growth Bordeaux (from the Haut Medoc), sometimes redolent of cassis, sometimes tending more to cedar and cigar box. One or two varietal Merlots (produced in minuscule quantities) have also been exciting. All the wines in this family age particularly well. Once again, Seppelt and Crawford River are benchmarks. Western VictoriaI A GippslandB Victoria The Gippsland region remains Victoria s most remote and least-known winegrowing region. Yet, as with so many other parts of Victoria, it produced fine table wine in the nineteenth century, and its rebirth in this century goes back to 1970. In the nineteenth century there were a number of vineyards, the most important of which were run by the Costellos and by Louis Wuillemin in the Maffra-Bairnsdale area. The Wuillemin cellars are still visible, although wine production had ceased prior to ys formed by the Moorabool, Leigh and Barwon rivers; on the slopes and plains around Ceres and Waurn Ponds, and on to German Town (or Marshall, as it is called today). Either in that year, or a little later, phylloxera was discovered at Fyansford, and neither for the first nor the last time, the politicians became involved and demonstrated that whatever their understanding of the political process they knew nothing whatsoever about the wine industry. In a knee-jerk reaction to public p ressure (some say fuelled by a jealous Rutherglen industry, then vying for pre-eminence with Geelong) the government ordered the wholesale eradication of the Geelong vineyards. It has been generally accepted that this spelt the end of viticulture until Daryl and Nini Sefton planted in 1966, but Fran ois de Castella, speaking in 1942, said Pilloud and Deppler descendants of some of the original Swiss vignerons still owned vineyards planted subsequent to the government-ordered eradicati on. There is, however, no record of winemaking or surviving vines from the interregnum, so for the time-being the honour for the revival of the district must go to the Seftons, followed almost immediately by Tom Maltby at Mount Anakie. While some outstanding wines have been made in Geelong since its rebirth, and while land values relatively speaking remain modest and broad hectare viticulture likewise remains free from urban or alternative land use pressure, the region has shown no si gn whatsoever of regaining the glory it once had. Six of the thirteen existing wineries have been in operation since 1975; since that time there has been phenomenal growth in the other two districts near Melbourne (the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula). Quite why this should be so is not easy to say. A facile explanation is that the district had only one market-oriented operator the Seftons at Idyll Vineyard prior to the arrival of Scotchmans Hill. A slightly more convincing t hesis is that the nineteenth century was far more accommodating financially to modest yields in good seasons and to derisory yields in poor ones. For Geelong today is not an easy place to grow grapes. Spring frosts, wind during flowering and fruit set, the mysterious abortion of varieties such as sauvignon blanc after fruit set, generally hard soils and a miserable rainfall (making irrigation all but a necessity) all have an impact in one year or another somewhere in the district. On the other hand, Bannockburn has established an international reputation for excellence, and Idyll (and Scotchmans Hill) have laboured unremittingly to do likewise. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Port Phillip Zone 07'S, 144 350 m Subregions Anakie, Bellarine Peninsula, Moorabool and Waurn Ponds. Climate This open, and strongly maritime-influenced region, has a climate roughly halfway between that of Bordeaux and Burgundy in terms of ripenin g temperatures and sunshine hours. The long, cool and usually dry autumn means that chardonnay and pinot noir achieve optimum ripeness almost every year, with both temperatures and sunshine hours greater than those of Burgundy, but the later ripening cabernet sauvignon and shiraz can struggle in cooler, wetter vintages. Yields are low to moderate, with both wind and lack of rainfall inhibiting vigour, particularly on the more exposed slopes and hardened soils. The maritime influence on the Bellarine Peninsula subregion is even more pronounced, leading to a strong bias in favour of pinot noir and chardonnay. Wind is a largely unseen factor cooling the climate even more than the statistics suggest. Wind-chill affects vines just as it does humans. Statistics Heat degree days: 1470 Sunshine hours per day: 7.8 Annual rainfall: 540 mm Growing season rainfall: 250 mm Mean January temperature: 19 Harvest: Early March end April Soil The principal soil type is one o f the commonest to be found in viticultural regions in Australia: red-brown clay loam over a hard clay base, ranging from mildly acidic to mildly alkaline, technically known as hard red duplex soil of the Dr2.23 classification. Somehow or other it seems to take on a tougher face in Geelong: perhaps it is the windswept aspect of many of the vineyards. There are also patches of a not dissimilar-looking group of dark black cracking clays in the Ug5.15 and 5.16 band. Principal Grape Variet ies Chardonnay: 27 ha Sauvignon blanc: 16.5 ha Riesling: 8 ha Gewurztraminer: 4.5 ha Other white: 13 ha Total white: 69 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 32 ha Shiraz: 23 ha Pinot noir: 18 ha Merlot: 12 ha Cabernet franc: 9 ha Other red: 4 ha Total red: 98 ha Principal Wine Styles Pinot Noir: The three principal producers of Pinot Noir in the region carry disproportionate weight, in no small measure because of the clarity of varietal expression and the sheer quality of the wine made from this most capricious variety. The style of the wine produced by the three leading makers is (predictably) markedly different, reflecting differing winemaking techniques and philosophies, but with a common varietal base: one does not need flights of fancy to find plums, tobacco, violets, strawberries and truffles appearing (not necessarily at the one time) in the wines. Pinot Noir was a famous wine for the region in the last century, and it is again today, thanks to B annockburn, Prince Albert and Scotchmans Hill. Shiraz: If there is a unifying feature in all of the Geelong wines it is their strength and depth of colour, bouquet and flavour. Almost all the wineries produce striking Shiraz which sometimes shows pepper/spice overtones, but more often than not relies on potent dark cherry fruit with persistent but balanced tannins providing structure and longevity. Chardonnay: If the area under vine in the Geelong region is to substantially increase, no doubt chardonnay will be one of the major contributors to growth. It has shown it can produce a wine of exceptional strength and complexity, developing pronounced Burgundian overtones with age, but can also be made in a more simple and easily accessible form on the Bellarine Peninsula. As with pinot noir, some of the newer plantings are being used to produce sparkling wine base, a use which is likely to continue in the future. Cabernet Sauvignon: The area is capable o f producing concentrated, powerful and long-lived Cabernets, with intense blackcurrant/cassis characters at their best, and more sappy/herbaceous characters in the cooler, wetter years at some sites. In all sites, limited yields are of prime importance in shaping the style and intensity of the wine. The winemakers of the region have split down the middle in deciding whether to leave it as a single varietal wine, blend it with Shiraz or blend it with Merlot, most opting for a blend of some description. Geelong.picE Port PhillipI MacedonB Victoria In 1990 I observed To suggest to a Frenchman that the Macedon region should be treated as a single viticultural area for the purposes of appellation control would bring a stare of total disbelief. Now that Geographic Indications are a reality, the new Macedon has indeed separated itself from Sunbury, and at least in geographic terms (altitude and topography) has become a coherent region. True it is that it still encompasses the Lancefield Macedon subregion at its southern end, which is the onset of the First World War. As things stand at the moment, Gippsland is a Zone and a coextensive region, but with three generally recognised subregions: South Gippsland, West Gippsland and East Gippsland. Presumably, in the fullness of time each will seek recognition as a region under the Geographic Indications legislation, but with the possibility of further differentiation into subregions. For Philip Jones (of Bass Philip) would divide Gippsland into six distinct climatic regions , placing its wineries thus: I: Bass Philip, Lyre Bird Hill, Paradise Enough, Tarwin Ridge, Windy Ridge II: Briagolong Estate, Wa De Lock III: Dargo Valley Winery IV: Ensay Winery, Mount Marbey Winery, Nicholson River, The McAlister, Wyanga Park V: Jinks Creek, Ada River, Wild Dog, Mair s Coalville, Narkoojee VI: Philip Island Vineyard, The Gurdies Winery. Thus the wineries in Region I would expect to pick pinot noir between the end of March and mid-April in a normal season, whereas thos e in Region II would expect to do so between end February and mid-March a full month s difference. Not only does the heat accumulation vary widely across the regions, but so does rainfall, particularly close to harvest. There is a complex matrix of forces shaping the climate, with weather systems moving across the south of the continent from west to east, but (in East Gippsland particularly) the possibility of systems moving down the coast from the north. Sometimes the two will block ea ch other, and winter droughts are not uncommon in the east. This far-flung region was, according to local legend, closely scrutinised by Hardys before it decided to invest in Padthaway. A quarter of a century later, the press suddenly erupted in 1997 with stories that Gippsland is the next Coonawarra, apparently fuelled by the fact that Southcorp had signed a supply contract with a grower intending to plant 50 hectares or so of vines. It is a classic case of one swallow making (or not mak ing) a summer, but there is no denying the potential of the region as land prices in better-known areas continue to rise. Just as the western side of the Great Dividing Range of New South Wales has emerged as a new force in the 1990s, so Gippsland may well spring to the fore in the first decade of the next century. The real question is which part of Gippsland will be chosen, and how much contemporary fashion (and demand) will shape what should by rights be a long term decision. The Re gion in Brief Location and Elevation Gippsland Zone 38'S, 145 58'E; Wonthaggi 83 m 58'S, 146 58'E; Maffra 26 m 34'S, 149 45'E; Mallacoota 0 m Subregions East Gippsland, South Gippsland and West Gippsland. Climate Given the large size of the region, it is inevitable that the variation between the climate of the three subregions should vary. South Gippsland is the coolest and wettest, with mean ripening temperatures, sunshine hours and relative humidit y similar to those of Burgundy and the Loire Valley, but with higher rainfall than either. It has proved itself absolutely ideal for pinot noir, and excellent for chardonnay. West Gippsland, centred on Maffra and the Latrobe Valley, is drier and a little warmer than either South or East Gippsland; the propensity to periodic droughts and the relatively low rainfall make irrigation highly desirable. East Gippsland has a more Mediterranean climate which corresponds quite closely to that of th e Yarra Valley, except that rainfall throughout the year is lower and sunshine hours in all periods except mid-summer are greater. Here, too, irrigation is essential if commercial yields are to be regularly attained simply because rainfall is so irregular although not all growers elect to use it. The weather patterns are complex (some coming from the north, others from the west) and there is considerable variation in maximum temperatures. It has shown the capacity to produce spectacularl y rich and complex Chardonnay if botrytis induced by late season rainfall does not come along to spoil the party. Statistics Heat degree days: 1301 Sunshine hours per day: 7.2 Annual rainfall: 584 998 mm Growing season rainfall: 368 530 mm Mean January temperature: 19.6 Harvest: Mid-March early May Soil Even within the smallest subregion (South Gippsland) soils vary significantly, and do so within small distances, ranging from dark black loams to lighter, mo re sandy soils in the grey to grey-brown spectrum. However, in general terms the soils are similar to those found down the whole east coast of Australia (south of Brisbane), sandy loams of moderate fertility and either neutral or slightly acid. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 60 tonnes Sauvignon blanc: 15 tonnes Other white: 33 tonnes Total white: 108 tonnes Cabernet sauvignon/franc/merlot: 65 tonnes Pinot noir: 60 tonnes Shiraz: 17 tonnes Other red: 10 tonnes Tota l red: 152 tonnes Principal Wine Styles Pinot Noir: Disputes pride of place with Chardonnay; the style varies somewhat throughout the subregions, tending richer and somehow slightly more rustic in East and West Gippsland, but in the (coolest) South Gippsland subregion Bass Phillip shows it is capable of making what many regard as one of Australia s greatest Pinot Noir styles, and certainly its most Burgundian fine and elegant, but with a deceptive length and intensity , and an elusive amalgam of strawberry, plum, tobacco and forest floor aromas and flavours. Chardonnay: Successfully made in all subregions, albeit with the greatest success in East Gippsland, where low yields produce wines of wholly exceptional flavour, structure and overall impact, triumphantly led by Nicholson River. Typically deeply coloured, and with layer upon layer of fruit flavour, augmented by generous use of French oak, these wines stand out in the seemingly endless sea o f Australian Chardonnay. If there is a question mark, it is over their sheer opulence (and the intermittent intrusion of botrytis). Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot Franc: As the Gippsland Grapegrowers and Winemakers Association s own statistics indicate, these varieties (or two of them at least) are usually blended in a Bordeaux-style red. The cool climate makes the logic of the blend obvious, and also means that in style the wines do indeed have overtones of Bordeaux. Overall, they are O on the light- to medium-bodied side (in contrast to the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs) with nuances of mint, leaf and earth to the more conventional dark berry fruits. The tannins are generally fine, occasionally firm. D Gipps.picE 19G GippslandI King ValleyB Victoria The beautiful King Valley had an improbable start with the post-Second World War emigration of Italian farmers who settled in the region and rapidly built up a thriving tobacco industry. It remained the most intensive form of activity in the valley until well into the 1970s, but declining demand for Australian-grown leaf (and the decline in the tobacco industry as a whole) together with the introduction of the Tobacco Stabilisation Scheme has seen tobacco growing shrinking to half its form distinctly cooler than the separate Kyneton subregion to the north, but it is what might be termed the sharp end of cool climate viticulture. Site selection (altitude, protection from wind and spring frosts, and maximum sun interception from north and north-east facing slopes), the careful matching of site and grape variety, razor sharp canopy management, and relatively low yields are all prerequisites for success. Even then success will not come every year; there have to be those extra f ew degrees of heat, those extra hours of sunshine of the warmer Melbourne summers to get the best results. Notwithstanding this, the area continues to grow apace, and far more quickly than I would have ever imagined. Its proximity to Melbourne, its beauty and the lifestyle are all factors contributing to its success. But the size of the wineries is small, and is likely to remain so; it is hard to imagine any of the larger wine companies moving in. Which, at the end of the day, is exactly how the vignerons of the area would wish it to be. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Port Phillip Zone 25'S, 144 55'E 700 m Subregions None. Climate This is one of the coolest wine growing regions on the Australian mainland, particularly if the statistics for Macedon are used. Altitude is a factor in determining just how cool a given site is, and varies significantly. (Mount Macedon is a fraction over 1000 m high.) However, wind is another ke y force in determining just how well vines grow, and is an unseen factor in statistics vines suffer wind chill every bit as keenly as do humans. On the other hand, surprisingly few vignerons have had problems with spring frosts autumn frosts in April and May have posed a greater threat. The winter dominant rainfall (necessitating summer irrigation) varies between 750 and 880 mm. Statistics Heat degree days: 970 Sunshine hours per day: 7.6 Annual rainfall: 860 mm Growing season rainfall: 370 mm Mean January temperature: 17.2 Harvest: April Soil By the very nature of this once volcanic region, it is inevitable that the majority of the soils should be relatively skeletal mountain soils, most typically granitic sandy loams which further restrict yields. However, there are patches of deep loams in valleys and on the lower slopes and occasional plains. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 45 ha Riesling: 5 ha Sauvignon blanc: 4 ha Semillon: 3 Traminer: 1 ha Total white: 58 ha Pinot noir: 40 ha Shiraz: 17 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 15 ha Cabernet franc: 3 ha Total red: 75 ha Principal Wine Styles Sparkling Wines: The preponderance of chardonnay and pinot noir in the vineyards confirms what the climatic statistics suggest: this is an extremely good region for the production of sparkling wine, with a number of high profile boutique brands within its borders. Interestingly, the leading makers (Cope-Wil liams and Hanging Rock) have also been prepared to use the full range of techniques to produce wines with great character and individuality, and which are a light year away from the technically precise but bland products of the major companies. The intense flavours and high natural acidity of the base wines encourages the use of avant garde winemaking processes, and the winemakers have been quick to respond. Shiraz: With one exception, all of the most recent plantings in the Macedo n Ranges have been of chardonnay and pinot noir (which have doubled in the past few years). The exception is shiraz, which is a favoured variety both in the Macedon Ranges and at Sunbury. Given that it is a relatively late ripening variety generally found (and often considered to do best in) warm to hot regions, this may come as a surprise, but Virgin Hills, Knight Granite Hills and Craiglee (the latter in Sunbury) were the first three Australian wineries to introduce consumers to the stri king pepper, spice, liquorice and black cherry aromas and flavours of genuinely cool climate Shiraz. At times eerily similar to the wines of the Northern Rh ne Valley of France, this style has added a third dimension to Shiraz in Australia. Pinot Noir: Pinot noir is used both to produce sparkling and table wines, arguably with equal success. Here the logic of the match of climate and wine style is immediately obvious, with both old and new arrivals producing wines of unimpeachable varietal character. Fine and tending to lighter bodied in style in the cooler vintages, these are wines of genuine merit in the overall scheme of Australian wines. Bindi, Cleveland, Mount Gisborne Wines and Rochford are among the better producers. Chardonnay: Much the same applies to Chardonnay; fine, elegant, lightly structured and potentially long lived wines are the order of the day from plantings on and around Mount Macedon. The warmer years give fuller flavoured styles, as do the warmer sites in the lower altitude and more northerly parts of the region, exemplified by Portree, but with many other competent producers. Cabernet Sauvignon/Blends: As the plantings attest, an important variety, perhaps surprisingly so. Its greatest expression is as a blended wine with Shiraz (at Virgin Hills), but is also dries well as a single varietal in warm years. Sauvignon Blanc: Sparingly grown and produced, but can be (and often is) utterly spectacular in flaM)vour, particularly that of Hanging Rock. Macedon.picE Port PhillipI A GrampiansB Victoria Gold fever reached its peak in central west Victoria: the towns of Ballarat, Beechworth and Bendigo are all testaments to the extraordinary changes it wrought on the fabric, not just of Victoria, but of Australian society. Nowhere is its legacy for the wine industry more evident than in the vast underground tunnels (or drives) at what is now Seppelt Great Western. The Grampians (formerly known as Great Western) is also unique in that it is the only district in Australia to have directly a er hectareage. In 1970, as if sensing the future challenges, two King Valley farmers independently decided to plant vines: John Levigny at Meadow Creek and Guy Darling at Koombahla. By chance, neither was Italian, and in Guy Darling s case, it was simply to satisfy an urge that had been fostered by a trip to Bordeaux which happened to coincide with the great 1961 vintage. The exceptionally fertile soils of the valley, combined with the temperate climate and abundant winter spring rainfal l ensured that the vines grew as rapidly and prolifically as the tobacco plants had done. Brown Brothers was approached, and readily agreed to purchase the grapes. Throughout the 1980s both the number of growers and the size of the vineyards continued to grow rapidly. The Pizzini brothers, the Orsinis and the Politinis joined forces with the Murtaghs, the Carsons and the others, and suddenly the King Valley was among Victoria s major producers of premium grapes. But it was not well known outside a small circle: essentially it was regarded as a bailiwick of Brown Brothers, which had provided planting material, technical advice and entered into a variety of grape purchase contracts with most of the growers. Other winemakers looked on enviously, but were reluctant to intrude. The troublesome 1989 vintage, and the temporary halt in the growth of exports, proved to be the circuit-breaker. While Brown Brothers continues to buy (and also grow) more grapes than any other wine co mpany, the list of purchasers is impressive: it includes (or has included), Mitchelton, Yalumba, Brokenwood, Yarra Ridge, De Bortoli, Rothbury, Domaine Chandon, Mildara Blass, Orlando, Southcorp, Dromana Estate, Miranda, Kingston Estate, Hanging Rock and 15 others. Technically, the region encompasses the catchment of the King River. The King River joins the Ovens River at Wangaratta; its valley runs south through the gentle slopes of the Oxley Plains for 25 kilometres to Moyhu. From this point on, the altitude increases rapidly, and the scenery changes dramatically. There is a series of folded valleys with steep sides and towering gum trees, becoming denser with altitude. The highest vineyard is that of Brown Brothers at Whitlands. The 630-metre line runs through the vineyard, which can provide spectacular views of snow-clad alps as readily as bitterly cold rain sweeping horizontally across the vines, reducing visibility to a few metres all this in the one growing seaso With a 1996 crush in excess of 8000 tonnes, the King Valley is an important region. One large contract crush facility has already been established; another was due to be commissioned for the 1988 vintage. Its resident wineries are, however, small, and it seems probable that most of the wine produced from the region will be used in multi-region blends. Predictably high yields make the bank manager happy, but impose a limit on the potential quality of the region at least until one ar rives at Whitlands, where yields are much lower, the outcome less predictable. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation North East Victoria Zone 21'S, 146 630 m Subregions Markwood, Meadow Creek, Milawa, Myrrhee, Oxley, Whitfield and Whitlands. Climate The climate changes progressively (and significantly) from north to south, from lower northern elevations to higher southern elevations, with a progressive increase in rainfall and decrease in he at summations. Thus at Milawa the growing season rainfall is 329 mm; at Myrrhee, halfway up the valley at an elevation of 320 m, the rainfall has risen to 442 mm; while at Whitlands it is 630 mm. Ripening is progressively delayed, the style of wine changes, and at the highest altitude only the earlier-ripening white varieties are suited to table wines. However, the climate here is ideal for the production of fine sparkling wine base. The principal threat faced by grape growers is not sprin g frost, but fungal diseases, and in particular, botrytis. Given the vigorous growth and generally high crop loads, modern canopy control methods especially leaf plucking and trimming are essential adjuncts to regular spray programmes. Statistics Heat degree days: 1150 Sunshine hours per day: 8.9 Annual rainfall: 670 1400 mm Growing season rainfall: 328 620 mm Mean January temperature: 20.6 Harvest: Mid-March late April Soil The country ranges from basically flat in the north, to mountainous in the extreme south. However, owing to the abundance of suitable land, most of the vineyards have been established on relatively gentle slopes, typically north- and northeast-facing. As one would expect, the soil types vary significantly throughout the valley, changing with altitude, slope and site characteristics. However, deep red clay loams abound, at times veering more to grey or brown in colour, but having the same structure. Drainage is good, fertility high, and vigorous growth is encountered in virtually all sites. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 119 ha Riesling: 84 ha Sauvignon blanc: 25 ha Other white: 23 ha Total white: 251 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 154 ha Shiraz: 70 ha Merlot: 40 ha Pinot noir: 37 ha Other red: 71 ha Total red: 372 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Chardonnay has now overtaken riesling as the major white grape of the region, producing both table and sparkling wine. In bot h guises much is blended by the numerous purchasers from outside the valley; by far the greatest amount of Chardonnay bearing the King Valley Geographic Indication is produced by Brown Brothers, with Miranda being the next most important producer specifically recognising the origin. The wine is soft and rich, with yellow peach, fig and tropical fruit flavours, and tends to be relatively quick-developing. Cabernet Sauvignon: The most widely planted variety in the King Valley has its strongest foothold, as one would expect, in the low to intermediate elevations. It ripens readily, producing the typically large yields of the region. The resultant wines are soft but flavoursome, making excellent blend components for commercial Cabernet Sauvignon designed for early consumption. The flavours are in the sweet berry spectrum, with just a hint of mintiness and more herbaceous notes. The substantial quantities of Merlot fulfil a similar role; by the nature of the variety, it is, if anything, even softer than the Cabernet Sauvignon. Riesling: Principally made as a dry style, but with some late-harvest wines made by Miranda. Brown Brothers and De Bortoli (via Windy Peak) are all significant purchasers. Sparkling Wines: Chardonnay and pinot noir (principally) are utilised by many of Australia s leading sparkling winemakers as blend components; Brown Brothers vintage and non-vintage sparkling wines are entirely drawn from King Valley fruit, enjoyi P;ng substantial national wine show success in recent years. North East VictoriaI Goulburn ValleyB Victoria The Goulburn River wends its way through three central Victorian regions. It starts high in the foothills of the alps at Lake Eildon in the central Victorian high country region. It initially flows west as it descends from the mountains, turning north as it approaches Seymour and enters the Upper Goulburn Valley. As it leaves the Upper Goulburn near Shepparton it once again turns west, running through the Lower Goulburn Valley until it arrives at the Murray River to the east of Echuca. nd significantly benefited from French winemaking experience: Trouette, Blampied, Pierlot in the last century, Landragin in this century. Pierlot played a key role in establishing the reputation of the district as a sparkling wine producer and (after a 70-year hiatus) Dominique Landragin continued that role for a time during stints both with Seppelt and thereafter Yellowglen. Simply because Great Western is the best-known sparkling wine brand in Australia, and because of the historic Sepp elt winery and cellars, the assumption is that it is indeed still a major producer. The reality is that only a tiny percentage of the grapes used in the Seppelt sparkling wines is grown in the region, even if the vinification, maturation and bottling of all the wines are carried out there. The Grampians is in fact primarily a producer of fine table wine, and is especially suited to Shiraz and to Riesling, but is also capable of providing high-quality Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon gether with its district specials Ondenc and Chasselas. These are produced from a diverse array of vineyards: the scenic hillsides of Montara, the remote plantings of Boroka under the stark outline of the Grampian Mountain Range, the historic vines of Best s dating back to the mid-1860s yet still in production, and the more recent but ever-expanding Mount Langi Ghiran. It is a compact area, with the wineries clearly signposted. A weekend, with an overnight stay in the historic town of B allarat or at the scenically striking Halls Gap, will provide ample opportunity to visit all the wineries and enjoy the quiet beauty and palpable sense of history provided by the striking stone buildings and old abandoned gold workings which is the hallmark of the region. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Western Victoria Zone 09'S, 142 440 m Subregions Ararat, Great Western and Stawell. Climate In part due to its location on the fri nges of the Great Dividing Range, which in turn provides altitude, the Grampians region has a significantly cooler climate than those areas to its east. The low heat summation (only slightly in excess of 1400) is, however, offset by high ratios of growing season sunshine hours, and to a lesser degree by moderate relative humidity; in the outcome, the region is especially well-suited to later-ripening varieties, most especially shiraz. Altitude and site exposure are particularly important, giving rise to significant mesoclimatic variation, although throughout the entire region growing season rainfall is particularly low, and irrigation is essential if economic yields are to be achieved. The disappearance of old, low-yielding vineyards throughout the region has been due in large part to lack of available water. Statistics Heat degree days: 1460 Sunshine hours per day: 8.3 Annual rainfall: 590 mm Growing season rainfall: 240 mm Mean January temperature: 20.2 Harvest: Mid-March late May Soil There are two principal soil types, both of them common to the grape growing regions of the southern parts of Australia. The first group is Dy3.41 and 3.42, with grey and grey-brown loamy sands and clay loam surface soils which are quite acid and which need lime adjustment; the subsoils are less permeable than the surface soil, and can lead to drainage problems. These soils are known as hard yellow duplex soils, and are closely related to the other group, D r2.21 and 2.22 hard red duplex soils. Once again, these are acidic, and once again need lime adjustment. Here the subsoils are of structured clay which is usually reasonably well drained, but can cause temporary waterlogging. Neither group is especially fertile, and unless the pH is significantly increased by liming both the surface and the subsoil, it will militate against vine vigour and restrict crop levels. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 71 ha Sauvignon blanc: 29 ha esling: 22 ha Other white: 27 ha Total white: 149 ha Shiraz: 58 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 58 ha Pinot noir: 23 ha Merlot: 14 ha Other red: 15 ha Total red: 168 ha Principal Wine Styles Shiraz: Formerly labelled Hermitage, this is the district s finest variety, white or red. It makes wines of diverse but great style, ranging from the silky smooth, almost understated, red cherry/plum wines of Best s to the complex, black cherry, chocolate and spice wines of Seppel t Great Western, then moving up the scale of intensity and finally arriving at the superbly concentrated, textured dark fruits and potent pepper/spice of Mount Langi Ghiran. Sparkling Burgundy: Also made from shiraz (in this region) and in the case of Seppelt Show wines, from the same old vines adjacent to the winery which produce the still table wine. The name Sparkling Burgundy will have to change, but not the quality or style of this unique and quite wonderful wine, great at ten years of age, superlative at 20 and beyond praise at 30 to 50 years. Cabernet Sauvignon: Over the years, sparingly grown but performs well in adverse conditions and wonderfully when everything goes right. The blackcurrant, blackberry and even raspberry flavours run riot without even threatening that elegant, almost svelte Great Western style. Chardonnay: Sparingly grown and made, but does well here in the hands of Best s in particular, producing elegant wines of mid-weightM that age well. Western VictoriaI Mornington PeninsulaB Victoria Contrary to most accounts, vineyards did exist on the Mornington Peninsula (chiefly in the Hastings area) in the nineteenth century, albeit on a small scale. They disappeared without trace, and the next attempt to establish a vineyard by the Seabrook family at Arthurs Seat at the end of the 1940s likewise faded away after several trial vintages. A chance lunchtime conversation between David Wynn and Baillieu Myer at Elgee Park in 1971 ignited the flame once more, this time to burn brig provides the connecting link between the three regions, the latter two of which I have grouped together for the purposes of this CD-ROM. One of the three, however, has a history which far transcends that of the other two regions. The story of the establishment of viticulture in the Upper Goulburn Valley has all the ingredients for a television epic: high-stakes gambling, initial failure, glory and premature death quickly followed by overnight success. The success was that of a syndicate headed by R H Horne and John Pinney Bear, which in 1860, raised 25 000 ($50 000) for the purpose of forming the company to be entitled the Tahbilk Vineyard Proprietary Within two years 80 hectares had been planted with 700 000 vines, and by the end of the decade 90-metre-long cellars had been constructed, followed by the cellars in 1875. By this time Tahbilk was producing the equivalent of 70 000 cases of wine a year, and even though production declined somewhat in the ens uing years to around 35 000 cases, a thriving trade with England was quickly established. Phylloxera spelt the end for the other smaller vineyards and wineries in the district, and when the Purbrick family purchased Chateau Tahbilk in 1925, it was the only operating winery, a situation which was to continue until the arrival of Paul Osicka in 1955. Indeed, to this day the only other significant winery (in commercial terms) to be established in the Upper Goulburn has been Mitchelton (in 19 69), and even it had a prolonged struggle before becoming successful. These two wineries more than compensate for the lack of numbers: the National Trust-classified Chateau Tahbilk retains more of its nineteenth-century atmosphere than any other winery in Australia. New buildings have been added with the utmost care and sensitivity, and are barely noticed. Chateau Tahbilk is surrounded by the billabongs and backwaters of the Goulburn River (and by the river itself on one side), a setting it shares with Mitchelton. There the similarity ends: the massive red wines of Chateau Tahbilk look backwards to the last century, the futuristic architecture and marsanne of Mitchelton are the harbingers of the next century. The essentially flat countryside is never boring: white-trunked eucalypts (frequently massive), a profusion of bird life and the wandering watercourses create a unique atmosphere. In the height of summer, when the temperatures soar and the canopy of the vines starts to wilt under the heat, a cool and shady spot is never far away. The country around Chateau Tahbilk and Mitchelton is nearly perfect for viticulture, allowing generous yields while still retaining plenty of flavour and extract. Moreover, the patches of sandy soil have held phylloxera at bay in some places most notably the vineyard at Chateau Tahbilk on which the gnarled and twisted old vines planted in 1860 continue to provide a precious quantity of grapes made into a special wine by C hateau Tahbilk. This is history encapsulated in a bottle. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Central Victoria Zone 47'S, 145 131 m Subregions Lower Goulburn Valley and Upper Goulburn Valley. Climate As befits its status as primarily a producer of full-bodied red wines, this is a relatively warm region if judged by its centre around the towns of Seymour and Nagambie with an HDD of 1680 (which, for example, compares with 1710 for Nuriootpa in t he Barossa Valley). Nor is the rainfall especially generous: at 560 mm (winter spring dominant), irrigation, or vine access to the underground watertable (as in the case of Chateau Tahbilk), is essential. Statistics Heat degree days: 1680 Sunshine hours per day: 9 Annual rainfall: 600 mm Growing season rainfall: 250 mm Mean January temperature: 21.2 Harvest: Early March early May Soil There are three principal soil types: red and brown sandy clay loams in the Dr2.22, 2.23 and 2.33 group; similar hard duplex soils, but yellow-brown in colour (Dr2.62); and gritty/gravelly quartzose sands laid down by the prehistoric wanderings of the Goulburn River in the Uc1.22 and 1.23 group. The sandy soils held phylloxera at bay, and it is for this reason that Chateau Tahbilk has shiraz vines in production which date back to 1864. Principal Grape Varieties Riesling: 61 ha Chardonnay: 58 ha Sauvignon blanc: 23 ha Marsanne: 20 ha Semillon: 18 ha Other white: 88 ha Total white: 268 ha Shiraz: 89 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 80 ha Pinot noir: 16 ha Merlot: 15 ha Other red: 85 ha Total red: 285 ha Principal Wine Styles Shiraz: This is big-bodied red wine country, producing red wines of awesome proportions. The old vines of Chateau Tahbilk take Shiraz into another dimension, but even its standard Shiraz is as compelling in its consistency of style as it is in its concentration and tannic strength. Mitchelton takes a somewhat dif ferent approach; its Shiraz is undeniably rich and textured, but the tannins are less pronounced, the overall level of extract less. Marsanne: This is the only district in which marsanne is grown and made in commercial quantities All Saints Estate (northeast Victoria) and Yeringberg (Yarra Valley) are the other wineries in Australia offering the wine, but they do so in minuscule quantities. For both Mitchelton and Chateau Tahbilk, the variety is important: in many ways it is the flagbearer for each, even though each makes greater quantities of other wines. Yet the style of the two wines could not be more different: that of Mitchelton is oak influenced, lemon-accented and gains a pungent, almost oily richness with age. Oak plays no part at all in the Tahbilk wine: it is delicate and faintly chalky in its youth, but in the best years is extremely long-lived, building the honeysuckle bouquet and taste which typifies the variety. Chateau Tahbilk, incidentally, has the largest planting of marsanne in the world. Cabernet Sauvignon: Cabernet Sauvignon follows much in the footsteps of Shiraz, with a diversity of style which might seem surprising given the relatively few wineries and the seemingly homogeneity of the climate. Once again, Chateau Tahbilk leads in the weight stakes, Mitchelton s approach is more softly, softly and complicated by the fact that some of the Mitchelton label wines use diverse fruit sources. Riesling: While showin g a degree of variability from one vintage to the next, it is arguable that Goulburn Valley produces Victoria s best Riesling. Mitchelton has been particularly successful (and most consistent), but Chateau Tahbilk has done extremely well at times. The wines have considerable weight and flavour, with marked lime juice and tropical fruit aromas and flavours intermingling. Despite their early appeal, the wines also have the capacity to age attractively for up to five years, holding their peak P$ for some further years thereafter. Central VictoriaI Yarra ValleyB Victoria Let there be no doubt about it: I am hopelessly biased when it comes to the Yarra Valley, for it is where I live, where I work making and writing about wine, and it is where I hope I will die when my time comes. It is a place of extreme beauty, of constantly changing light, of colour and of mood. It offers landscapes on an heroic scale with the same profligacy as it offers intimate vistas. Once you have seen it, you cannot help but love it. Yet my love affair started before I set foot in htly. Wynn told Myer of the Seabrook experiment, and expressed regret that it had lapsed. Baillieu Myer resolved to establish a vineyard, which he did the following year. There are now 110 vineyards and over 30 wineries (including those whose wines are produced by contract winemakers), and the Peninsula is here to stay. Moreover, as the link between tourism and wine continues to strengthen, so does the underlying business base of the region. While the Mornington Peninsula winemakers may n ot welcome the idea, there are parallels to be drawn with the Hunter Valley and its symbiotic relationship with Sydney. For the Peninsula is Melbourne s foremost holiday playground, its foremost weekend retreat. This is both bane and blessing: on the one hand it provides a populous and active local clientele; on the other hand it places inexorable pressure on land use and hence land prices. The net result is a patchwork quilt of small wineries and even smaller vineyards, and the absence o f larger wine producers. In some regions this can result in winemaking practices (and wines) which might charitably be described as rustic, less charitably as downright unpleasant. No such problem exists in the Mornington Peninsula: the affluence of the majority (though by no means all) of the vignerons means they have not hesitated to spend the money necessary to acquire the human and material resources to maximise wine quality and guarantee consistency. It has also resulted in the estab lishment of numerous attractive cellar-door facilities and many winery restaurants and cafes. The sheer beauty of the softly rolling hillsides, the green grass of much of the year, the groves of native and imported trees and the sweeping sea vistas are a perfect backdrop for visitor or resident alike. Fortuitously, too, concentrated urban development is largely restricted to the seaside suburbs and towns, leaving the large tracts of the centre of the Peninsula unscarred. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Port Phillip Zone 20'S, 144 250 m Subregions None, although there is a surprising climatic variation between sites, with Mornington, Dromana, Balnarring and Red Hill South all having different personalities. Climate Only the Margaret River and the Bellarine Peninsula can lay claim to such a profoundly maritime-influenced climate. The wind is either blowing from the north and west across Port Phillip Bay, or from the south and east across Bass Strait and usually, in this part of the world, it is blowing from somewhere. That the climate is cool is not in dispute; exactly how cool is strongly dependent on site and aspect, for various weather stations provide heat summations ranging about 1080 near Main Ridge to 1240 at Dromana, and as high as 1570 at Mornington. Certain it is that whatever heat is measured will have been evenly accumulated, for frosts are as rare as hot, dry winds. Relative humidity is high, stress is low, sunshine hours are abundant, and rainfall abundant during winter and spring. In the outcome, there is no argument: the warm vintages are the best. Statistics Heat degree days: 1570 Sunshine hours per day: NA Annual rainfall: 740 mm Growing season rainfall: 320 mm Mean January temperature: 19.9 Harvest: End March mid-May Soil There are four principal soil types. The hard mottled yellow duplex soils (Dy3.21 and 3.22) with a distinct break (marked by a thin, acid cement/sand pan) between the surface soil and the underlying friable well-drained clay are to be found in the Dromana area. Around Red Hill and Main Ridge, red soils of volcanic origin predominate; these are deep and fertile. At Stoniers Merricks there are brown duplex soils (in the Db group), while much sandier soils are in evidence at Moorooduc. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 381 ha Pinot gris: 47 ha Sauvignon blanc: 40 ha Riesling: 22 ha Other white: 21 ha Total w hite: 511 ha Pinot noir: 259 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 136 ha Shiraz: 33 ha Merlot: 29 ha Pinot meunier: 8 ha Cabernet franc: 8 ha Other red: 10 ha Total red: 483 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: This is the Mornington Peninsula s most distinctive wine, which if made in the style favoured by most producers is distinctively different from any other Chardonnay produced in Australia. The background fruit flavour is quite delicate, with flavours in the melon/ci trus/fig spectrum, and is sensitive to the influence of winemaking technique, and in particular to the effect of malolactic fermentation. Partly through necessity (natural acid levels are frequently quite high) and partly (it would seem) through peer group pressures, the majority of the wines are in fact wholly or partially taken through the secondary malolactic fermentation, and are equally frequently barrel fermented. The net result is to overlay a strong nutty/cashew/hessiany oak charac ter. If the sufficient underlying fruit is there, and it often is, the result is spectacularly good and equally distinctive. T Gallant and Willow Creek, with their unwooded Chardonnays, provide an emphatic alternative style to the richer styles of Moorooduc Estate, Paringa Estate, Stonier s and Dromana Estate. Pinot Noir: There is enormous range in depth and style of the region s Pinot Noirs, ranging from hauntingly delicate to intense and lingering. The constant factor is the be ll-clear varietal character; as the majority are at the lighter end of the spectrum, that varietal clarity is all the more pronounced. Such wines are best enjoyed within two or three years of vintage and are a fine advertisement for the variety. Stonier s and Paringa Estate are the leading exponents, supported by makers such as Kings Creek and Port Phillip Estate. Cabernet Sauvignon: Something of a misnomer, for almost all the Cabernets are in fact blended with up to 20 per cent Me rlot and Cabernet Franc, a practice that accentuates the natural tendency to suppleness and elegance: these are the equivalent of the right bank of the Gironde in Bordeaux (St Emilion and Pomerol) compared to the left bank (Haut M doc and Graves) of say Coonawarra (South Australia). The flavours can be intense if not downright piercing, running the full gamut of red into black berries, but the wines are never heavy and certainly not tannic. Only in the warmer years do the wines have mu ch appeal to the heart. Pinot Gris and Viognier: Viognier has been in the district for decades, pinot gris has only recently arrived. The contrast between the performance of the two underlines how cool the climate is: too cool to bring out the best in viognier, but ideally suited so it would seem to pinot gris. T Gallant leading the way, it is a fair bet there is every chance that Pinot Gris will become a regional signature wine in the years ahead. Morning.picE Port PhillipI SunburyB Victoria Sunbury has a marvellously rich history, some of which has been miraculously preserved. In 1858 James Goodall Francis, a former Victorian Premier, planted the first vines at Goona Warra an aboriginal name chosen long before Coonawarra was even a twinkle in John Riddoch s eye. He subsequently built a magnificent bluestone winery, and while winemaking ceased in the early 1900s, the buildings were preserved. In 1982 Goona Warra was purchased by Melbourne lawyer John Barnier and family, and it, when I tasted the first vintages of Seville Estate, Yeringberg and Mount Mary, followed soon thereafter by Yarra Yering. In the second half of the 1970s these wines opened up a new horizon; the Pinot Noirs, a new world. Within a year I had traversed its length, and although I did not know it then, my fate was sealed, my life was to change direction from that of a senior partner in a major law firm specialising in corporate law to that of full-time winewriter and winemaker without (as I am fond of saying) visible means of support. The antecedents of the Yarra Valley were (and are) impeccable, with a proud and rich history of grape growing and winemaking stretching back to the first settlers (in 1838) and reaching the height of fame in 1881. I shall follow the course of its renaissance which burst like a spring flower between 1968 and 1971, inexplicably all but stopped growing throughout the rest of the 1970s and flourished in an extraordinary fashion in the 1980s and, even more, in the 1990s. In the first edition of this CD-ROM I suggested that, at the then rate of increase in plantings, the Yarra Valley would outstrip the Lower Hunter Valley in terms of plantings and winery numbers by the turn of the century. As the figures show, it had already passed the Lower Hunter by 1996, and the rate of vineyard growth is increasing rather than slackening. It is certain that by the year 2000 vineyard plantings will exceed 2000 hectares. Until the 1990s the Yarr a Valley was the exclusive preserve of the small winery, most producing wines in the super-premium category. De Bortoli Wines of Griffith was the first to invest, acquiring (and renaming) Millers Chateau Yarrinya in 1987. Then in the 1990s, and in quick succession, Mildara Blass acquired Yarra Ridge (and later St Huberts via its Rothbury Estate takeover); BRL Hardy acquired the large Hoddles Creek Vineyards and then Yarra Burn; McWilliam s purchased Lilydale Vineyards; and Southcorp follow ed up its acquisition of Fernhill Vineyards by taking over Coldstream Hills (which I had founded) in 1996. There has also been a rash of large-scale investment in new wineries initiated by Moet et Chandon with Domaine Chandon in the late 1980s, followed by the Cowan family in Eyton-on-Yarra, the Rathbone family with Yarrabank, and (in 1997) the Zitzlaff family with Oakridge Estate (via a public capital raising). Back in the 1980s Dr Tony Jordan wrote a paper suggesting that by 2010 the Y arra Valley could have 5000 hectares of vineyards and 100 wineries producing 3 million cases of wine a year. At the time, it seemed a fanciful dream; in the wake of the publication of the Wine Industry s Strategy through to the year 2025, and the national and international acceptance of the Yarra Valley as one of Australia s foremost fine wine regions, it has become a realistic target. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Port Phillip Zone 45'S, 145 22'E Lilydale 400 m Subregions Coldstream, Diamond Valley, Dixons Creek, Healesville, Hoddles Creek, Seville, Wandin, Woori Yallock, Yarra Glen and Yarra Junction. Climate Given the considerable variation in altitude, and the significance of aspect (ie north or south) on the many hillside vineyards, it is not surprising that there is substantial variation in climate. However, even the warmest sites are, comparatively speaking, cool; the MJT at Healesville is 19.4 C which is lower than at Bord eaux or Burgundy, but it has an aberrationally high heat summation (HDD) of 1490; that of the highest vineyards is not much over 1100. The principal viticultural problems are botrytis and downy mildew, both promoted by the cool and moderately humid climate, and which necessitate constant preventative spraying (chiefly with lime and sulphur) The other viticultural hazard is birds, which cause substantial crop losses in some years. Spring frost are not at all common, but the low summer rainf all does make drip irrigation from January to March highly desirable. Statistics Heat degree days: 1490 Sunshine hours per day: 7.4 Annual rainfall: 910 mm Growing season rainfall: 400 mm Mean January temperature: 19.4 Harvest: Early March early May Soil There are two basic soil types: the traditional areas between Lilydale, Yarra Glen, Dixons Creek and Healesville are almost all in the Dr2.21 and 2.22 group hard red duplex soils. Despite the technical name, these are grey to grey-brown to brown in colour on the surface and range from loamy sand to clay loam in consistency. They have red-brown clay subsoils, frequently impregnated with rock. Most are relatively acidic and low in fertility, but are well drained. The other major soil type is the immensely deep and fertile vivid red volcanic soil to be found at Seville, Hoddles Creek and elsewhere on the Warburton side of the Yarra Valley. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 497 ha Sauvignon bla nc: 80.5 ha Riesling: 13.5 ha Semillon: 13.5 ha Other white: 12 ha Total white: 616.5 ha Pinot noir: 325 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 245 ha Merlot: 97.5 ha Shiraz: 77 ha Other red: 32.5 ha Total red: 777 ha Note: plantings given are as at 1995 and have since increased substantially; no more recent detailed figures available. Principal Wine Styles Pinot Noir: Pinot Noir takes pride of place simply because the Yarra Valley has achieved more with this difficult vari ety than any other Australian wine region. Slowly, too, the essential nature of Pinot Noir is becoming better understood; while many wine drinkers dismiss it because it is so different from that of Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz, others appreciate its haunting delicacy and surprising length of flavour. For those who understand true Burgundy (typically Domaine-bottled) the sappy/strawberry/plum spectrum of fruit flavours to be found in the Yarra is exciting. The leading producers (alphabetica lly) are Coldstream Hills, Diamond Valley, Mount Mary, Tarrawarra, Yarra Ridge, Yarra Yering and Yeringberg. Chardonnay: Curious though it may seem, the quality of Yarra Valley Chardonnay took longer to assert itself than did that of its Pinot Noir. However, over the past ten years both the quality and range of style has increased dramatically; while there is a distinctive regional melon/fig/white peach flavour substrate to all Yarra Valley Chardonnays, there is tremendous diversit y in weight, texture and richness, partly reflecting vintage variation and partly reflecting different winemaking philosophies and techniques. What is undoubted is the capacity of the Yarra Valley to produce long-lived Chardonnay of the highest quality. Coldstream Hills, De Bortoli, St Huberts, Tarrawarra, Yarra Burn and Yarra Ridge are leaders. Cabernet Sauvignon: As in the Mornington Peninsula, Cabernet Sauvignon is usually blended with up to 20 per cent (sometimes more) of Caber net Franc and Merlot. The wines are invariably elegant, but can vary from light-bodied through to full-bodied. The common feature is the softness of the tannins they are almost silky. This can trap the unwary into assuming the wines will not cellar well, but they do. It is hard to single out producers as almost every winery in the Yarra Valley makes a Cabernet, but De Bortoli, Mount Mary, Oakridge, Yarra Yering and Yeringberg are outstanding. Shiraz: Sparingly produced, but after a period of decline, once again on the increase. Appropriate site selection is essential, with warm, north-facing slopes highly desirable, and in that circumstance capable of producing intensely coloured and flavoured wines, redolent of black cherry, spice and pepper, but with those fine, silky Yarra Valley tannins. De Bortoli, Seville Estate and Yarra Yering (with Underhill and Dry Red No 2) lead the way. Sauvignon Blanc: Like shiraz, sparingly grown, and with demand substantiall y in excess of valley-grown supply. The appetite of the wineries for Yarra Valley sauvignon blanc fruit remains undiminished. Even smaller quantities of semillon are grown, and where available it is usually blended with sauvignon blanc to good effect. D Yarra.picE Port PhillipI RutherglenB Victoria Northeast Victoria, once an easy to understand concept, has now split itself into four regions: the King Valley, the Ovens Valley, Rutherglen and Glenrowan. The separation of the first two makes obvious commonsense: the King and Ovens valleys provide dramatically different climatic conditions from those of Rutherglen and Glenrowan once altitude comes into play. The higher the altitude, the cooler the summer, the finer and more delicate the wines. But Rutherglen and Glenrowan, although sep brought back to life with a fully functional winery and restaurant. James S. Johnstone followed quickly in the footsteps of Goodall, establishing Craiglee in 1864. A fellow parliamentarian, he also established the Argus newspaper, and in 1872 made a Shiraz which I have been lucky enough to taste on several occasions bottles from a cache long forgotten and unearthed in the 1950s. Still with remarkable life and vinosity, they are a powerful testament to the suitability of the regio n for the production of elegant but long-lived Shiraz. The four-storey stone winery remains, but in this instance public health bureaucracy has decreed that Pat Carmody (whose family purchased the property in 1961, forty years after wine production had ceased, and re-established the vineyard in 1976) should have to make the wine in a new winery building. This, it must be said, has not prevented him from making the best and most consistent wines from the region, most notably the multi-trop hy winning Craiglee Shiraz. Where the Macedon Ranges (with which Sunbury was once lumped) are hilly, indeed mountainous, Sunbury is almost, but not quite, flat. Situated 15 minutes past Tullamarine Airport, and the closest wine region to the Melbourne CBD, it is not particularly well known. It can be a chilly place, at times downright forbidding, particularly when the wind blows hard from the north, sweeping the plain with frigid air drawn up from the antarctic oceans and circulated over the mountains to the north before rushing back whence it came. But Sunbury s proximity to Melbourne, its historic wineries, and the quality of its wines are more than enough to compensate for these shortcomings. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Port Phillip Zone 45'S, 145 275 m Subregions None. Climate The growing season climate, in particular, is much influenced by the wind which sweeps across the plain, further cooling an already cool reg ion. The nearby Macedon Ranges to the north and the sea to the south each also exercise moderating though different influences; this is a cool climate however measured. Rainfall is winter spring dominant as elsewhere in the coastal regions around Melbourne, making irrigation essential in most sites. One might expect spring frosts to be a major problem, but they are no more extreme here than in the Macedon Ranges; their existence simply reinforces the importance of appropriate site selectio Statistics Heat degree days: 1380 Sunshine hours per day: 8.1 Annual rainfall: 785 mm Growing season rainfall: 310 mm Mean January temperature: 19.2 Harvest: Late March early May Soil The soils are typically dark, and except on old alluvial river terraces not particularly fertile. Their depth and structure varies significantly from lower level plains to hillsides. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay Semillon Sauvignon blanc Shiraz Pinot noir Cabernet sauvi Cabernet franc Merlot Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Unlike Macedon, most of the chardonnay grown in the region is used to make table wine. As one would expect given the cool climate, the style is elegant, with good natural acidity. The resulting wines are not dissimilar to those of Geelong, a region with which Macedon has many things in common, but with a touch of Yarra Valley elegance. Craiglee has consistently done well, Goona Warra likewise from time to time. B>Semillon: Not widely grown, but in spirit and in performance, a logical mate with shiraz. Like shiraz, it does best in the warmer, drier vintages, and in the hands of Goona Warra has produced one or two quite memorable wines combining varietal flavour with satisfyingly full mouthfeel. Shiraz: Without question, the most noble grape for the region even though (paradoxically) only Craiglee has concentrated on it. It produces wines with a splendid array of black pepper, spice and black cherry aromas and flavours; the body can be deceptively light, as is seldom more than medium bodied, for the alcohol level seldom rises much beyond 12.5 , and the tannins are typically soft and fine. There seems no logical reason why the best vintages should not age as well as the 1872 which, after all, was produced from relatively young vines and was of quite low alcohol. Pinot Noir: Another paradox, for one would have expected more pinot noir to be grown and made in the re gion; in 1996 Wildwood showed what can be achieved with it, and it seems local that plantings should increase in the years ahead. Cabernet Franc: The more common variety in the region is cabernet sauvignon, but the performance of each variety suggests that in most vintages it is too cold for sauvignon, and that franc (the red grape of the cool Loire Valley of France) is better suited to Sunbury, with Goona Warra to the fore. Port PhillipI PyreneesB Victoria If ever a region belied its name, it is the Pyrenees: anyone who has driven up and down the twisting mountain roads of that wonderfully scenic area which runs along the boundary between Spain and France, and who has then traversed the gentle rolling hills around the towns of Redbank, Moonambel and Avoca, will know what I mean. It is a quiet region, off the main highways and like Coonawarra in South Australia on the way to nowhere. Its winemaking history has been similarly undramatic, arated by some distance, are a pigeon pair. Certainly, there are some differences in the fine print of climate and soil; certainly, there are subtle but definable differences in the wine styles. However, they have far more in common than in points of difference, and for this edition at least I have elected to group them together. (For the record, at the time of writing Rutherglen had made application for registration under the Geographic Indications legislation, but Glenrowan had not.) is is a part of Australia steeped in history, with character and personality second to none. One of the first vignerons in the northeast was Lindsay Brown, who took up the Gooramadda run in 1839. Gold came later, but Brown was convinced there was greater (and surer) wealth in viticulture. Victoria s great wine historian and chronicler Hubert de Castella records that Brown was in the habit of settling miners discussions as to the depth to which sinking of shafts should be carried. To get gold , he would say, you need sink only about 18 inches and plant vines As in so much of Victoria, gold and vines remained intertwined during the extraordinary boom days of 1860 to 1893 with Ned Kelly and the Murray River providing local colour each in a different way facilitating the flow of wealth. The bank crash of 1893 and the onset of phylloxera then struck hard at what had become Victoria s most important wine-producing region, but it had the resilience to survive. Right f rom the outset it was obvious the shimmering heat of the summer days, not to mention the acid-retention counterbalance of the cold nights, were ideally suited to the production of full-bodied red wines and even more to fortified wines. For reasons which are lost in the mists of time the emphasis fell on Muscat and Tokay, but the significance of the heavy red table wine market that the region developed in the United Kingdom cannot be overemphasised. It was this market which led to the esta blishment of the three great vineyards and wineries of the region: Mount Ophir (280 hectares), Fairfield (250 hectares) and Graham s (also 250 hectares). These produced massive quantities of both heavy table and fortified wine, most of which was exported in barrel to the United Kingdom. They survived the Second World War, sustained by the local market, and re-established their export franchise at its conclusion, but the shift away from fortified wine (and heavy table wine) led to their dem ise in the second half of the 1950s. Almost all of the smaller wineries and vineyards that were replanted after the onslaught of phylloxera survived, even if some changed names and/or owners. Largely for this reason the northeast is richly endowed with wineries and buildings which are as full of character (and history) as the people who inhabit them. Mercifully, the twentieth century has done little to destroy the inheritance of the nineteenth century, and the northeast stands proud among Australia s most interesting wine regions. The character of the wineries comes in part from the richness of the architecture, whether it be the main street of Rutherglen or the magnificence of the Victorian mansions of Fairfield and Mount Ophir, the humble galvanised iron of the working areas of wineries such as Chambers Rosewood and Morris, or the striking (and bizarre) castellated red brick walls of the pseudo-Scottish castle of All Saints Estate. As you move south to Glenrowan, you c ome to Ned Kelly country. It is only fitting that Baileys winery should be here; I shall never forget visiting it some 30 years ago (in 1967) nor shall I forget the 1954 and 1958 vintage dry reds we purchased (in large quantities) on that occasion. Baileys continues to make red wines fit for heroes, as does Cliff Booth at Taminick, but the greatest wines are the Muscats and Tokays. My eulogy for the great Muscats and Tokays of the region follows, so I need say no more here. But if you hav e a choice of visiting only a few of the regions covered in this book, Rutherglen and Glenrowan should be among them. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation North East Victoria Zone 01'S, 140 160 m Subregions None. Climate It hardly needs saying that the climate varies dramatically across the region. Even the plains have a significant altitude, with the nights made colder still by the air draining off the nearby mountains. Small wonder that sprin g frosts are a continuing hazard, or that they can destroy an entire vintage (witness 1968). It is no doubt also the reason why Rutherglen has a heat summation (HDD) of 1770, and although this is not far removed from Bendigo (1708) and the Clare Valley (1773), in reality the climates are simply not comparable. The rainfall at Rutherglen is 585 mm, with a bias towards winter and spring. Statistics Heat degree days: 1770 Sunshine hours per day: 9.3 Annual rainfall: 590 mm Growing sea son rainfall: 260 mm Mean January temperature: 22.3 Harvest: End February early May Soil The soils are diverse: the Warby Range at Glenrowan has produced a deep, friable red soil between the range and Lake Mokoan, which is granite-derived and well suited to red and fortified wine production; there are widespread gritty, gravelly quartzose sands, grey-brown in colour and which are extremely free draining; elsewhere red alluvial loam lies over river gravel, providing excellent mois ture retention; and there are also significant areas of sandy, mottled yellow duplex soils with clay subsoils. Principal Grape Varieties Muscadelle (tokay): 39 ha Muscat petits grains: 31 ha Total fortified: 70 ha Chardonnay: 83 ha Riesling: 77 ha Total white: 160 ha Shiraz: 128 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 104 ha Total red: 232 ha Total Plantings: 462 ha Principal Wine Styles Muscat and Tokay: If you have anything more than a passing int erest in wine, and you have never tasted either, please buy a bottle of each today. Remember that the wine will live for many weeks (months, even) after you have opened it: each glass, each night, will bring a new perspective, and at the smallest imaginable cost given the extraordinary quality of the wines. Shiraz: The traditional red wine of the area, which can achieve an opulence and power unequalled by any other part of Australia. In the 40s, 50s and 60s, that power was often accompanied by a degree of rusticity: the wines of Baileys and Booths, for example, were often described as being made from a mixture of grapes and nails, and iron bars. For a while there was a tendency to downscale the wines, and certainly the iron bars have disappeared from the mix, but now the wines are being allowed to flex all their Schwarzenegger muscle. Wines for heroes, a cold winter s night, and blood-rare char-grilled rump steak, and bloody marvellous. Campbells Bobbie Burns, Ba ileys (various, including 1920s Block) or Butlers are all good examples. Cabernet Sauvignon: A more recent arrival than Shiraz, but makes wines of only slightly less heroic dimensions. It appears both as a 100 per cent varietal wine and in various blends, obviously Shiraz and less so with varieties such as Mondeuse, usually with a chocolately taste. Durif: Produced by several wineries, but in the hands of Morris produces the ultimate expression of regional wine style, high ]in alcohol (usually 15 or more), high in extract, and a mix of chocolate and prune flavours which are quite unique. All of these characteristics also combine to make the wines long-lived. White wines: Sparingly grown and made, but over the years HJT Vineyards has produced some striking Chardonnays, as have Campbells in more recent times. North East VictoriaI Adelaide HillsB South Australia After some initial prevarication, the Adelaide Hills region has now separated itself from the Eden Valley, with Gumeracha and Birdwood marking the northern end of the district. From the outset, the 400-metre contour line circumscribed the southern, eastern and western boundaries, and continues to do so. All of this might suggest a neat parcel of climatic, soil and wine type, but in fact there is considerable climatic variation between the northern and central areas. In the northern vineya even if the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune have hit their mark here as elsewhere. The first vines were planted by the Mackereth family in 1848; the winery came to be quite substantial, ultimately passing into the control of two brothers, one a bank manager by training, the other an art and music teacher. Towards the end of the First World War negotiations began for the sale of the winery to Seppelt, but fell through apparently because Seppelt felt one of the brothers intended to continue winemaking in opposition to it. The winery was ultimately sold to a Methodist minister in 1929, who promptly closed the winery, destroyed the cellars and pulled out the last 20 hectares of vines. Winemaking continued at Moonambel until 1945 through Kofoed s Mountain Creek winery, but a hiatus followed until the establishment in 1963 of the Chateau Remy (now Blue Pyrenees Estate) vineyards. Then began a decidedly curious phase in the history of the region. The area was selected by Remy as suitable for the production of quality brandy, and the vineyard was planted accordingly, with trebbiano the principal variety. The best laid plans notwithstanding, the brandy market collapsed, so production switched to another type of wine the Remy Martin group knew about sparkling wine. It is hardly surprising that even Remy Martin s expertise (it has a shareholding in Krug and owns Charles Heidsieck and Piper Heidsieck) was unable to make a silk purse out of a sow s ear ble to produce high-quality sparkling wine from brandy grapes grown in what is first and foremost a red wine area. Reworking of the vineyard, grafting and replanting with chardonnay and pinot noir has helped, but I still find the wines unconvincing, presumably partially reflecting the questionable climate. Consistently with that view, the table wines of Blue Pyrenees Estate are better, and improving further. It was not until 1970 that the other wineries arrived: there was a frantic burst of activity as first Mount Avoca and Summerfield, then Taltarni, Redbank, Warrenmang and finally Dalwhinnie were established over the ensuing six years. After a pause which had lasted 80 years, the wheel suddenly turned full circle when in December 1995 Seppelt (or technically Southcorp) acquired the 325-hectare Glenlofty property north of Elmhurst, and established over 150 hectares of vineyards. Almost all is shiraz, with a little chardonnay, roussane and marsanne. In 1997 an equally larg e syndicated vineyard was established on similar rolling hillsides almost next door to the Elmhurst property of Seppelt. Both these developments are on the northern side of the Pyrenees Range, and are in a substantially cooler climate than that of the earlier arrivals in the region. As with the other central Victoria regions it is first and foremost a red wine district, producing full-blooded and richly textured styles. More recent developments and climate studies suggest there is also po tential for both sparkling and full-bodied white wines, and in particular Chardonnay. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Western Victoria Zone 05'S, 143 375 m Subregions Avoca, Kara Kara, Moonambel, Redbank and Elmhurst. Climate The net result of a series of countervailing influences is a temperate climate ideally suited to the production of full bodied dry red wines. While its inland location gives rise to low midsummer relative humidity and to substantial diurnal temperature ranges in spring and early summer, late summer peak temperatures are lower than one would expect, which is in turn reflected in its lower-than-expected heat summation. Sunshine hours are generous, growing season rainfall is however, limited, making irrigation all but essential. Differing mesoclimates do exist in the Pyrenees, particularly those of the newest developments. Statistics Heat degree days: 1530 Sunshine hours per day: NA Annual rai nfall: 544 mm Growing season rainfall: 220 mm Mean January temperature: 20.9 Harvest: Late February mid/late April Soil The grey-brown sandy loam soils which predominate fall into the hard mottled yellow duplex groups (Dy3.41 and 3.42), although the brown loamy sand soils in the hard red duplex category (Dr2.21 and 2.22) are also quite common. Both solid groups are improved by the addition of gypsum, and tend to be acidic, needing amelioration by lime. Principal Grape Variet ies Chardonnay: 92.7 ha Sauvignon blanc: 47 ha Semillon: 7.5 ha Riesling: 7 ha Other white: 6.13 ha Total white: 160.33 ha Shiraz: 72.5 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 57.3 ha Pinot noir: 34 ha Merlot: 16.2 ha Pinot meunier: 13.4 ha Cabernet franc: 11.3 ha Petit verdot: 1 ha Other red: 7.2 ha Total red: 212.9 ha Principal Wine Styles Shiraz: Once again shiraz demonstrates just how suited it is to the climate and terroir of western Victoria. As with Cabernet, glori ously sweet and rich fruit flavours are to be found in abundance, sometimes circumscribed by tannins needing to soften, but sometimes not. Pepper and spice occasionally appear, but more frequently red cherry, black cherry and dark chocolate are the descriptors of choice. Dalwhinnie, Summerfield, Warrenmang and Taltarni lead the way, with Seppelt waiting in the wings. Cabernet Sauvignon: Produces a wine which is never less than substantial and is at times of awesome proportions. Som e of the wines are more tannic than others, but all possess a sumptuously rich mid-palate (most conspicuously that of Dalwhinnie), with flavours running from eucalypt mint through to blackcurrant, and earthy characters which develop during maturation. Redbank s Sally s Paddock is a distinguished multiblend in similar mould. Sparkling Wines: Blue Pyrenees Estate continues to be a significant producer of sparkling wine, having developed new specific mesoclimatic sites in cooperation with its parent houses (Charles Heidsieck and Piper Heidsieck) and perhaps the best is yet to come. Taltarni, too, produces sparkling wine. Chardonnay: Since 1990 has been heavily planted; much goes to make sparkling wine, but Dalwhinnie makes a powerful and impressive table wine, supported by Blue Pyrenees Estate and Mount Avoca. Sauvignon Blanc: Produced by a number of makers in the cooler years showing pleasant varietal character, ranging from flinty mineral to gooseberrOTy. Taltarni has done particularly well from time to time (as in 1996, for example). Pyrenees.picE Western VictoriaI Adelaide PlainsB South Australia The Adelaide Plains run due north of the city of Adelaide, east of the Adelaide Hills and southeast of the Barossa Valley. It is a significant producer of low-cost grapes, which come from high-yielding vineyards with a low incidence of disease. The laser-flat topography is another factor assisting in the economics of grape production, facilitating broad acre planting and a high degree of mechanisation. While much of the production is processed in the Barossa Valley, the largest winery (con rds spread around the hamlets of Paracombe, Birdwood and Gumeracha (and most notably those with a west-facing tilt) heat summations rise substantially, and full-bodied red wines are made. In the centre, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir are dominant, producing fine table wine. But even this constitutes a dangerous generalisation, for site selection is all-important: as Brian Croser (of Petaluma) has handsomely demonstrated, chardonnay growth within the Piccadilly Valley is profoun dly influenced by the aspect of the vineyard, with north-, east- and west-facing slopes producing markedly different aromas and flavours. This subregion, lying between Lenswood, Ashton, Piccadilly and Hahndorf, is particularly attractive. The roads twist and turn, rise and fall, offering cameo vistas with bewildering frequency. It is an exceedingly beautiful area, particularly in autumn, yet is still a largely undiscovered treasure. Although it is less than 30 minutes drive from the centr e of Adelaide, no one should venture into this country without a detailed road map, for it is impossible to navigate by simply using one s sense of direction. Further south still is the Kuitpo subregion, not far from the escarpment leading down to McLaren Vale. Here are some of the largest vineyard developments notably those of eminent viticulturist Geoff Hardy and that of Rosemount Estate and the accent swings to semillon, shiraz, merlot and sauvignon blanc. There is a distinct chang e in the character of the countryside, more akin to that of the north, and the wine style follows suit, even though ripening is very late. The potential of the Adelaide Hills is limited only by the need to protect the water catchment by restricting development, and by alternative land use for intensive horticulture market gardening, apple growing and so forth. It will be interesting to see how the competing interests are resolved in the long term, but it is certain that viticulture will claim a significant portion of the available resources. Perhaps the recent establishment of the Nepenthe Vineyards Winery at Lenswood, only the second winery in the region (the first was Petaluma many years ago) gives some clue about the future. Proper control and disposal of winery effluent into such a sensitive water catchment area will be the major concern. However, regardless of the number of operating wineries, this is a truly outstanding region for a day trip from Adelaide. The his toric and beautiful Bridgewater Mill and Mount Lofty House offer first-class restaurants for lunch (and Mount Lofty House luxurious accommodation and dinner). Particularly in spring and autumn, the patchwork quilt of little hills and valleys blazes with colour, and craft shops abound. The sheer quality of the wines coming from the wineries is the icing on the cake. Petaluma, the wines of which are sold through Bridgewater Mill, needs no further praise, nor do the Henschke Lenswood wines, nor the Knappstein s Lenswood vineyards, nor Geoff Weaver s wonderful creations. But there are also the less well-known names, such as Ashton Hills, which make an equally valuable contribution to a great wine region. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Mount Lofty Ranges Zone 7'S, 138 36'E Clarendon 500 m Subregions Piccadilly, Summertown, Ashton, Gumeracha, Woodside, Lenswood, Kuitpo, Willunga, Oak Bank, Birdwood, Paracombe and Hahndorf. Climate</ Altitude is the key to the climate; Mount Lofty and the Piccadilly Valley are a bare 25 minutes drive from the centre of Adelaide, but the contrast in climate throughout much of summer has to be experienced to be believed. The veritable maze of valleys and sub-valleys, with slopes offering every conceivable aspect, means there is as much mesoclimatic variation as one can find anywhere in Australia, making generalisations hazardous. However, the Adelaide Hills has an unequivocally cool c limate, with heat summations ranging from less than 1300 to 1392 at Lenswood. It is not until one reaches the northern extremity of the region, and the west-facing slopes, that one moves out of a climate suited principally to the early-ripening varieties such as chardonnay, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc, and into terrain which satisfactorily ripens cabernet sauvignon and shiraz. Rainfall of up to 1120 mm is strongly winter spring dominant, and irrigation is regarded as necessary. The main viticultural hazard is the misty, wet weather which often prevails during flowering, resulting in poor fruit set. Statistics Heat degree days: 1270 Sunshine hours per day: 8.5 Annual rainfall: 1120 mm Growing season rainfall: 310 mm Mean January temperature: 19.1 Harvest: Early March late April Soil The Hills have predominantly grey, grey-brown or brown loamy sands and clay loams falling in the Dy3.22 and 3.61 groups (hard mottled yellow duplex soils). There are also pat ches of much sandier and more weakly structured soil which run into the duplex soils, but are of lesser quality. Fertility varies, tending to be higher in the southern and central areas. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 164 ha Sauvignon blanc: 64 ha Riesling: 9.5 ha Semillon: 246.5 ha Total white: 484 ha Pinot noir: 72 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 61 ha Shiraz: 25 ha Merlot: 13 ha Cabernet franc: 181 ha Total red: 352 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Complex but elegant wines are par for the course; the variety flourishes, and the resulting wines are invariably full of character, responding in marked fashion to the winemaking philosophies and practices of the numerous distinguished producers in the region. As one would expect, natural levels of acidity are good, allowing makers to use malolactic fermentation to increase complexity without making the wines soft and flabby, nor threatening their longevity. Chain of Ponds, Geoff Weaver , Lenswood Vineyards, Mountadam, Petaluma and Shaw & Smith lead the way. Pinot Noir: After a slow and at times uncertain start, Pinot Noir is now asserting itself in the fashion that the climate has long suggested it should. The arrival of new Burgundian clones should ensure continued impetus and interest. Indeed, there is no doubt that the Adelaide Hills is and will remain South Australia s leading producer of Pinot Noir, with wineries such as Barratt, Henschke and Lenswood Vineya rds capable of throwing down the gauntlet to southern Victoria and Tasmania. Sauvignon Blanc: Whatever you can do, I can do better; so sings the Adelaide Hills to its neighbour McLaren Vale. Naturally, the style varies with the vintage and site, but Geoff Weaver and Leland Estate regularly produce intensely fruity wines, Shaw & Smith and Lenswood more restrained but with excellent structure. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot: Although not widely grown, several producers have ma naged to make outstanding wines from cabernet sauvignon and merlot, none more so than Henschke at Lenswood and in different style Chain of Ponds and Glenara in the northwestern corner of the Adelaide Hills. If nothing else, it is a testament to the importance of site selection. Sparkling Wine: Substantial quantities of the pinot noir and chardonnay grown in the Adelaide Hills are used in the making of sparkling wines, with Petaluma s Croser commonly accepted as being one of AusQhtralia s greatest. As one might expect, the style is extremely refined, the flavour long and lingering. AdelHill.picE Mount Lofty RangesI Barossa ValleyB South Australia The Barossa Valley is, and always will be, the womb of the Australian wine industry. Most of the country s largest wine companies are headquartered here; for more than 150 years grape growing and winemaking have been the principal occupations of its residents, the evidence everywhere to be seen. That evidence speaks of the two cultures which hand in hand developed the industry. One was that of the English: George Fife Angas, a promoter of the South Australian Company, settled in the valle fusingly named Barossa Valley Estate) in fact draws substantial quantities of grapes back from the Barossa Valley, leaving it to Primo Estate to show just what can be achieved with Adelaide Plains fruit. However, there has been no application for registration as a Region under the Geographical Indications legislation, nor is there any present intention of applying. For the time being, at least, the wineries will be content to use the Adelaide Zone as their appellation. Primo Estate, under the direction of winemaker (and part owner) Joe Grilli, encapsulates the reasons why Australia has been so successful in attracting world-wide markets for its wines. On the one hand there is the abundant sunshine and warmth, factors which guarantee ripe, lush grapes which speak of the blue skies and the golden sun. Indeed, in the case of the Adelaide Plains, there is theoretically too much sun and too much warmth, a possibility which only the Spanish (among European makers) could comprehe It is here that the other hand comes into play: the skill and innovative brilliance of Joe Grilli. It is not just that he was dux of his year when he graduated from Roseworthy, nor that he was head-hunted to join Australia s flying winemakers in Italy. It is rather that he has been able to transcend the limitations of the vineyard environment, making crisp, Sauvignon Blanc-like, Colombard, suave Shiraz, complex Joseph Cabernet Merlot (from time to time using the Moda Amarone borrowe d from Italy) and Botrytis Riesling, all wines of quality, and all of startlingly different style. It is the sort of ingenuity, of daring, which lies onside the imagination of the old world winemakers and which stands Australia in such good stead. There is another solution to the limitations of the climate that of Barossa Valley Estate (and used also, but to a lesser degree, by Joe Grilli) and that is simply to look to other regions in this instance to the nearby Barossa Valley for grapes, and to transport those grapes to the winery for processing. This may seem blindingly obvious to Australians, but it is a solution (and freedom) that is denied to any European winemaker seeking to make wine within the official framework of the Appellation Laws, and thereby have access to the subsidies offered within the European community. Freedom, it seems, always has a price, but in this instance Australians would say it is well worth it. The Region in Brief Location a nd Elevation Mount Lofty Ranges Zone 41'S, 138 Subregions None. Climate Given the proximity of the Adelaide Plains to Adelaide, the proximity of the ocean, and the absence of any mountain range between the Plains and the ocean, the hot to very hot climate comes as a surprise. It is warmer than the Hunter Valley, and not far behind the Riverland region of South Australia. Indeed, its growing season rainfall of only 130 mm is the same as the Swan Valley, and as low as any Australian region, making the Adelaide Plains totally dependent on irrigation. The compensation is a climate in which, once water is made available, it is easy to ripen large crops of grapes in a virtually disease-free environment. Statistics Heat degree days: 2081 Sunshine hours per day: 9.6 Annual rainfall: 270 mm Growing season rainfall: 130 mm Mean January temperature: 23 Harvest: Mid-February late March Soil There are two soil types; the most common is the ubiquitous red-brown loamy sands found through so much of southeastern Australia, with alkaline subsoils and free limestone at deeper levels. These are excellent viticultural soils which readily support the typically high yields of the region. There are also smaller patches of heavier loam and cracking clay soils which are strikingly different in structure, but once again tend to be alkaline rather than acidic, and once again promote vigorous vine growth. Principal Grape Varieties< Chardonnay: 81 ha Sauvignon blanc: 40 ha Riesling: 16 ha Semillon: 16 ha Other white: 16 ha Total white: 169 ha Shiraz: 81 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 81 ha Grenache: 20 ha Other red: 13 ha Total red: 195 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Most of the 1200 or so tonnes of chardonnay grown each year disappears into the anonymity of casks or lower-priced bottles which in all probability will show southeast Australia as the area of origin, and in fact be multi- regional blends. In this respect the wine is no different from that produced throughout much of the Riverland, and is none the worse for that. Shiraz: Ranks equally with chardonnay in terms of production, and in the hands of Primo Estate produces a wine of remarkable quality, showing a totally unexpected touch of spice (normally reserved for cooler climates) and fine-grained tannins. Winemaking skills have no doubt played a part, but it demonstrates what can be achieved with grapes grown on mature vines and with controlled yields. Colombard: If Primo Estate achieves remarkable results with shiraz, it performs miracles with colombard. It is true the variety is particularly well suited to hot climates thanks to its ability to retain relatively high levels of natural acidity, and is much prized as a blend component for this very reason in the casks and generic white wines to which it is usually directed. But it can produce a wine which looks disconcertingly likM/e Sauvignon Blanc, so fresh and bracing is it. Mount Lofty RangesI Clare ValleyB South Australia The Clare Valley occupies the same special place in my heart as does Tuscany: if I were to live elsewhere in Australia, I would wish it to be in Clare; elsewhere in the world, Tuscany. They share the same softness, the same intimacy, the same palpable sense of history, the same lack of twentieth-century pressure. Tuscany has these characteristics in greater abundance, no doubt, but that in no way diminishes the particular appeal of the Clare Valley. Mick Knappstein put it beautifully when y and took up vast holdings. In 1841 Angas Town (later Angaston) was surveyed and named after him; it was here that English brewer Samuel Smith founded what was to become Yalumba in 1849. It was Angas who, perceiving the need for labour for his enterprises, financed the immigration of German Lutheran farmers from Silesia who were suffering oppression from King Frederick III. The first families arrived at Bethany in 1842, and in 1847 Johann Gramp planted his first vines at Jacobs Creek, th ereby establishing Orlando. Five years later Joseph Seppelt acquired land near Tanunda, and by 1867 the nucleus of the present-day Seppeltsfield had been built. The Germans built in stone, and most of that which they constructed stands to this day. It was their culture which quickly became dominant: they baked the breads and cakes, sold the meat and made the sausages and meat wursts (or salamis) which form the basis of the utterly distinctive Barossa Valley cuisine. Nowhere else in Austra lia does the Lutheran Church flourish as it does in the Barossa, nowhere else do brass bands play with such fervour (and skill). These strands all come together in the biennial Barossa Vintage Festival, held each odd year ( 99 and so on and so forth) at the end of March when, during the course of a week, tens of thousands of visitors flock to the valley to participate in the myriad of banquets, feasts, tastings and other wine- (and lifestyle) related events. The evergreen popularity of the Vintage Festival is important in more ways than one. For between 1979 and 1989 the area under vine in the valley contracted sharply (from 8400 hectares down to 5400 hectares), a reflection of the fact that in the 1970s the Barossa suffered a severe identity crisis and loss of confidence. The move from red wine to white, the continuing sharp contraction in the fortified wine market, the sale to multinationals of many of the great family businesses, Vine Pull Schemes, the emergence o f the new cool-climate wine regions, and of the varieties which came with those regions (notably chardonnay) all conspired to shake the Barossa. Even its history and culture seemed to become a clich It was left to people such as that ultimate defender of the Barossa faith, Peter Lehmann, assisted thereafter by identities such as Rocky O Callaghan, Bob Maclean, Charlie Melton, Grant Burge and (as a chef of rare talent) Maggie Beer, to restore the Barossa s psyche. In the nick of time, a s it were, the wheel turned, and red wine came back into favour. The treasures of the century-old, gnarled bush vines of shiraz, grenache and mourvedre were rediscovered; some had befallen the Vine Pull Scheme (mainly grenache and mourvedre), but most had survived, and now plantings are on the increase once again rising to 7200 hectares by 1997. And it is also true that at no time was there any threat to its core business: making wine out of grapes grown across the length and breadth of So uth Australia. Not surprisingly, wine tourism is also big business in the Barossa Valley these days. The region has a character all of its own; ignore the inevitable pieces of kitch and the occasional eyesore, and you will find the true soul of the valley, and be entranced by it. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Barossa Zone 29'S, 139 00'E Nuriootpa 274 m Subregions Angaston, Dorrien, Gomersal, Greenoch, Lights Pass, Lyndoch, Marananga, Nuriootpa, Rowl and Flat, Seppeltsfield, Tanunda and Williamstown. Climate The climate has often been unfairly characterised as very warm, a view receiving prima facie support from the heat degree summation of 1710 and Mean Temperature of 21.4 C. In fact, as John Gladstones has pointed out, its biologically effective temperature summation and ripening mean temperatures are almost identical with those of Bordeaux and the Margaret River. But it does have a wide diurnal temperature range, higher maxi ma, more sunshine and lower humidity and rainfall all adding up to a climate ideal for full-bodied red wines, excellent fortified wines and generally robust white wines. As with so many of Southern Australia s regions, the rainfall is winter spring oriented, with only 210 mm of the meagre annual 520 mm falling in the October April growing season. The disease pressure is low, but all modern vineyards need (and use) drip irrigation to alleviate stress. Statistics Heat degree days: Sunshine hours per day: 8.8 Annual rainfall: 520 mm Growing season rainfall: 210 mm Mean January temperature: 21.4 Harvest: End February late April Soil The Barossa Valley twists and turns, at times as clearly defined as the Napa Valley, but at others disappearing into a series of rolling hills and transverse valleys which can easily disorient as well as charm the first-time visitor. Site, aspect and slope all vary widely in consequence. There are two basic soil types: brow n, loamy sand to clay loam, and more sandy light brownish-grey to dark grey-brown soils. Both are relatively low in fertility particularly the second type and acidity tends to increase with depth. Traditional viticulture (bush pruning, no irrigation) resulted in low yields of high-quality grapes. Principal Grape Varieties Riesling: 927 ha Semillon: 678 ha Chardonnay: 608 ha Muscadelle: 191 ha Other white: 787 ha Total white: 3191 ha Shiraz: 1316 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 6 29 ha Grenache: 587 ha Other red: 531 ha Total red: 3063 ha Principal Wine Styles Shiraz: Shiraz is given pride of place because the Barossa Valley is the birthplace of Penfolds Grange, the greatest red wine made from this variety outside of the confines of the northern Rh ne Valley. Almost every Barossa Valley winery has a Shiraz or Shiraz blend somewhere on the books; the style is full-blooded dark in colour, rich in dark red fruits with a touch of chocolate, a h int of roasted character, and sometimes eucalypt/mint. The structure is round and velvety, and the wines are almost invariably extremely long-lived. Cabernet Sauvignon: Cabernet Sauvignon follows a similar track to Shiraz. Wonderfully strong and rich in flavour and colour, it does manage to cling to its varietal character, but it is often best blended with grapes from other regions such as the Eden Valley, McLaren Vale or Coonawarra. That, certainly was the view of Max Schubert, an d the illustrious Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon is now a wholehearted marriage between the Barossa Valley and Coonawarra. Grenache and Mourvedre: Almost overnight, old vine Grenache and Mourvedre are in almost as much demand as old vine Shiraz. Hundreds of hectares were lost during the Vine Pull Scheme era, and what was left was chiefly used to make fortified wines. Suddenly, there is intense competition for the grapes between fortified and table winemakers, competition which is likely to intensify in the years ahead. Riesling: Just as almost every Barossa Valley winery has a Shiraz, so does it have a Riesling. Increasingly these are sourced wholly or partially outside the valley (usually from the adjacent Eden Valley), although that is not always apparent from the labels. The style is quintessentially Australian: strong, passionfruit/tropical fruits/lime flavours which can build magnificently with prolonged bottle age, although only a tiny percentage is given the opportunity. Semillon: Semillon has had a distinct renaissance, frequently being given a seductive coating of American oak, and developing quickly into a robust, full-bodied wine, at times looking as if it is a red wine masquerading as a white. Chardonnay: Like Semillon, tends to produce a relatively full-bodied, relatively quick maturing style when produced from grapes grown on the Barossa Valley floor or the lower foothills. It produces a useful wine, but no R6 maker has yet achieved any particular magic with it. Barossa.picE BarossaI CoonawarraB South Australia Coonawarra s pre-eminent position as Australia s greatest red wine region today stands in stark contrast to Bill Redman s famous dictum: From 1890 to 1945 you can write failure across the face of Coonawarra. For much of that time most of the wine was distilled into brandy, while in the 1930s the South Australian government implemented a mini Vine Pull Scheme, offering all ex-servicemen in the area a bounty of 4.10.0 an acre (0.4 hectare) for removing their vines and converting the land he said: There are only two kinds of people: those who were born in Clare, and those who wish they were born in Clare. He, of course, is in the former category; I am in the latter. The feeling stems in part from its abundant stone buildings (banks, halls, houses, wineries, farm houses and sheds); in part from its convoluted geography, ever promising a little creek or a spring, though not always providing it; in part from the interplay between eucalypts and vines; in part from its people ; and in part from its surrounding districts, notably Mintaro (with such wonderful places as The Magpie and Stump Hotel and Martindale Hall) and Burra (the old copper mining town with its unique terraces of miners cottages, now converted to bed and breakfast accommodation). Clare was founded by an extraordinary Englishman, John Horrocks, when he established Hope Farm in 1840 and planted the first vines. Minerals provided the first surge in population: copper was discovered at Burra in 18 45 and at Wallaroo and Moonta between 1859 and 1861. When the first flush of minerals was depleted, the wheat boom started, creating great wealth in a short time. High-quality slate was discovered at Mintaro, and in 1885 the Broken Hill Proprietary Company Limited was formed to mine silver at Broken Hill. Clare was the town through which much of the trade and the food (and the people) generated by these developments passed: it became known as The Hub of the North Vineyards (and winerie s) grew steadily. Sevenhill planted its first vines in 1852, those of Spring Vale (later to become Quelltaler) in 1853. By 1890 there were 100 hectares of vineyards, but expansion (at a rate reminiscent of the late 1960s in the Hunter Valley) lifted hectareage by almost 500 per cent in the next seven years. By 1897 there were 580 hectares under vine, and in 1903 the Stanley Wine Company produced 450 000 litres of wine (mostly exported to London), the same quantity as Penfolds. The twentiet h century slowed the rate of growth, and a number of the nineteenth-century wineries disappeared. The Stanley Wine Company and Quelltaler dominated production, but Sevenhill and Wendouree both continued to make and market wines to a small but appreciative market. The 1980s saw significant corporate investments and ownership changes. Hardys now owns Stanley Leasingham, Mildara Blass owns Quelltaler Estate and both Wolf Blass and Penfolds have established major vineyards on the Polish Hill River side of the valley. But the atmosphere has not changed, and the Clare Valley vignerons remain one of the most dedicated and harmonious of groups. One of many achievements has been the annual wine and food weekend held in May, at which the public is given the rare opportunity of tasting the weeks-old wines from the current vintage (on the Saturday) and touring the wineries on the Sunday (when each winery teams up with a prominent local or Adelaide restaurant to provide a matched glass of wine and small plate of food). But whenever you visit the Clare Valley, you will be assured of a specially warm welcome and be seduced by its gentle beauty. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Mount Lofty Ranges Zone 50'S, 138 500 m Subregions Auburn, Clare, Leasingham, Polish Hill River, Sevenhill, Watervale and White Hut. Climate More than any other district, the Clare Valley throws into question the accuracy of the heat summation index as a measure of climate, it still remains the best shorthand method we have. The HDD summation is 1770, the same as that of Rutherglen and in excess of the 1710 for Nuriootpa. Nor does the MJT of 21.9 C help much. All one can say is that the style of the wines is entirely inconsistent with a climate seemingly so warm, and many of the factors discussed in those pages no doubt come into play here. Over 60 per cent of the annual rainfall fall is between May and September; the growing season rai nfall of a mere 200 mm makes irrigation highly desirable, although the absence of ground water makes this difficult to supply in many parts of the Clare Valley, and the vines have traditionally been grown using dry land farming techniques. The low humidity means fungal diseases are seldom a threat but water stress late in the growing season often leads to partial or total defoliation of the vines, contributing to occasional ripening problems with riesling. Statistics Heat degree da ys: 1770 Sunshine hours per day: 9.3 Annual rainfall: 630 mm Growing season rainfall: 200 mm Mean January temperature: 21.9 Harvest: Early March late April Soil With the exception of the open expanses of the Polish Hill River to the west, and Auburn to the south, the region is broken into a series of sub-valleys running in every direction, with numerous creeks or creek beds. The higher altitude or west-facing slopes often produce the best vineyard sites in a very beautiful regio n. The soils vary, but are by and large excellent, red to brown-grey in colour (in the Dr2.23 group), and with a significant limestone content, particularly in the more southerly subregions. Principal Grape Varieties Riesling: 485 ha Chardonnay: 278 ha Semillon: 83 ha Sauvignon blanc: 67 ha Other white: 149 ha Total white: 1062 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 394 ha Shiraz: 315 ha Grenache: 128 ha Merlot: 40 ha Pinot noir: 25 ha Other red: 78 ha Total red: 980 ha Principa l Wine Styles Riesling: Much of Australia s finest Riesling is grown in the Clare Valley, and it is the most important wine for the region. Typically it starts life in a fairly austere mode, with faint aromas of passionfruit, a touch of lime, and a steely strength. Almost immediately a telltale touch of lightly browned toast starts to emerge, and as the wine ages and becomes more complex the intensity of that toasty character grows. These are long-lived wines: only in the weake st years will they not benefit from five years in bottle, many of the better wines improving for up to ten years. Among many fine producers Jeffrey Grosset, Mitchell, Petaluma and Knappstein Wines stand out. Cabernet Sauvignon: This is the other great wine of the region. Here the character and the style is less homogenous, in part reflecting the philosophy of the winemaker and in part the imperatives of the vineyard terroir. The wines are seldom less than full bodied, at times as s trikingly dense, rich and concentrated as any wine to be found in Australia. Mitchell makes a very elegant style which grows gracefully in bottle for a decade or more; Wendouree s Cabernet Sauvignon (often blended with a touch of Malbec) is a wine which will seemingly last a century, so concentrated and layered is its flavour and structure; Grosset Gaia magically combines elegance with sumptuous flavour. Shiraz: There are those who think that Clare Shiraz is every bit as good as Ca bernet Sauvignon, and over the years the two have frequently been blended, sometimes with the addition of a little Malbec. The wines are deep in colour and flavour, rounder and softer than the Cabernet Sauvignon, but with similar strength and depth. Wendouree, Leasingham, Annie s Lane and Jim Barry s The Armagh and MacRae Wood vie with each other at the full end of the spectrum. Semillon: The 40 year-old plantings of semillon at Quelltaler Estate, originally sourced from the HunterQ Valley, have always produced high quality, rich, long lived Semillon. Tim Adams and Mitchell add their weight with more opulently oaked styles. D Clare.picE Mount Lofty RangesI Eden ValleyB South Australia Captain Joseph Gilbert planted the first vines at his Pewsey Vale vineyard in 1847, the same year as Johann Gramp planted the first vines in the Barossa Valley at Rowland Flat. By 1862 he had established a substantial vineyard and cellar described in his series of articles published in the Adelaide Advertiser and ultimately collected in a book entitled The Vineyards and Orchards of Australia in 1862. Sixteen acres of vines were in full bearing, and the two-storey winery was i to dairying. Indeed, there is every reason to argue that 1951 should be substituted for 1945, for in the intervening period what is now Wynns Coonawarra Estate was nearly sold to the Department of Lands and Forests. Had that occurred, the only working winery would have been the then tiny Rouge Homme of the Redman family. It was in 1951 that David Wynn made his fateful decision to buy the now famous stone winery and cellars which had been built with such hope and enterprise by John Riddoch exactly 60 years earlier. Until this time the only table wine made in Coonawarra was Redman s Shiraz, which had been sold in bulk to Woodley Wines since 1920. Woodley bottled some of the wine, and sold the rest in bulk to other South Australian wineries. From 1952 Redman started selling to those companies direct, while continuing to supply Woodley with its requirements for bottling (and which gave rise to the famous Treasure Chest series). Thomas Hardy, Reynella and Leo Buring and Yalum ba were among the first purchasers of Redman s wine; in 1953 Ronald Haselgrove of Mildara joined the queue, and unable to purchase as much as he needed commissioned Bill Redman to find a suitable vineyard block and develop a vineyard. This was done in 1955, and Penfolds followed suit in 1957. The quest for land was on in earnest, and has still not run its course. More than that, the unrelenting pressure is now causing problems which even Ronald Haselgrove did not foresee when in 1955 he observed that within 15 years every major wine company will be clamouring for Coonawarra vineyard land . For the whole thrust of viticulture in Australia serves to deny the French view of terroir and of the importance of soil. Yet in Coonawarra there exists a classic example to support the French view. The exception may do no more than prove the rule elsewhere in Australia but the fact remains that it is likely Coonawarra will be the last and greatest battleground for the Geographic In dication boundary definition process. There are three soil types in Coonawarra: the famous red soils; the grey sandy soils which abut on the east; and the heavy black soils on the west. Experience shows that the last soil simply will not allow grapes to ripen properly for table wines, as it is too fertile and not sufficiently well drained. It can, however, produce satisfactory grapes for sparkling wine. The sandy soils to the east are entirely unsuited to viticulture. It is this dichotomy , not readily apparent from the dead flat perspective of ground level, which has given rise to the battle. There are those who would like to retrospectively define and delimit Coonawarra by reference to the red soils (possibly incorporating some of the black soils), but it may well be they have waited too long. The concern is, of course, that inferior wines from inferior soils will tarnish Coonawarra s reputation. The difficulty is compounded by the isolation and extremely compact size of Coonawarra. As Dr Sam Benwell said: It lies between Melbourne and Adelaide, but never quite on the way between the two cities, no matter which way one goes. It is completely flat, and one can drive through its 15-kilometre length without seeing anything much other than some vines. It is bitingly cold in winter, and can be fiercely hot in summer. The township of Coonawarra is a general store, a phone box, a small but pleasant restaurant and one or two insignificant buildings (all on a si de street). The wineries are functional but little more; only Wynns Coonawarra Estate vies albeit handsomely with what is commonplace in, for example, the Barossa Valley. But it is the Mecca to which all true wine pilgrims must travel. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Limestone Coast Zone 18'S, 140 49'E Subregions None. Climate With a heat degree summation (HDD) of 1430, Coonawarra was the first cool-climate viticultural region to gain national prominence. With no maritime influence whatsoever, the winters are cold, wet and windy, and throughout much of the growing season, the night-time temperatures are likewise low. Frost used to be a major problem, but viticultural adaptation has significantly reduced the danger. The annual rainfall is 647 mm, 282 mm of it falling between October and April continuing the winter spring pattern across southeast Australia necessitates the use of supplementary water from December onw ards. In almost all vintages Coonawarra receives intermittent bursts of very hot weather in February March. The other climatic problems in a basically favourable climate are wind and rain during flowering (frequently upsetting merlot and sometimes cabernet sauvignon) and mid- to late vintage rains, impacting particularly on riesling and shiraz. Statistics Heat degree days: 1430 Sunshine hours per day: 7.8 Annual rainfall: 650 mm Growing season rainfall: 220 mm Mean January temperat ure: 19.6 Harvest: Early March end April Soil Coonawarra boasts the most celebrated vineyard soil in Australia, commonly known as terra rossa, a distinctive, albeit thin, band of at times vivid red soil 100 cm to 500 cm deep overlying a bed of soft limestone. In truth there are two technically different soils which are treated as one and the same; a subplastic medium clay classified as Uf5.31, which is in fact extremely friable and well drained, whatever its name may suggest to the contrary, and shallow friable loams falling in the Um6.41, 6.42 and 6.43 groups. On the western side of the terra rossa strip are black cracking clays falling in the Ug group which overlie limestone, but which are fertile and prone to waterlogging. Experience has shown it is extremely difficult to obtain full ripeness on these soils, and many of the plantings are now devoted to sparkling wine production. On the eastern side of the strip are duplex sandy soils over a clay base (Dr2.23). Principal Grape Varieties Riesling: 340 ha Chardonnay: 520 ha Traminer: 112 ha Sauvignon blanc: 63 ha Total white: 1035 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 1159 ha Shiraz: 717 ha Pinot noir: 167 ha Merlot: 65 ha Other red: 33 ha Total red: 2141 ha Principal Wine Styles Cabernet Sauvignon: Whatever yardstick one adopts, Coonawarra produces most of Australia s great Cabernet Sauvignon. The best grapes and the best oak are used in making prestige labels such as Wynn s John Riddoch, Lindemans St George, Parker Coonawarra Estate, Penley Estate, Petaluma and Katnook Estate. In these wines the fruit flavours are highly concentrated (particularly in the John Riddoch) and luscious, covering a broad spectrum of individual fruit flavours ranging from blackcurrant to plum to red cherry to prunes. Notwithstanding the impact of oak tannins, the wines are seldom astringent or tannic, and indeed Coonawarra winemakers invest much effort in extracting every last gra in of available tannin. Rouge Homme, Rymill and Zema Estate also regularly produce fine Cabernets. Shiraz: To all intents and purposes, shiraz was the only wine grape grown in Coonawarra between 1900 and 1950; there were a few vines of cabernet sauvignon and a little grenache. The grape that in effect created Coonawarra s reputation seemed to be taking a slow ride to obscurity in the face of the success of Cabernet Sauvignon until Wynns Coonawarra Estate turned the tide. The advent of the deluxe Michael Shiraz alongside John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon has simply served to underline the inherent quality of the wine. Bowen Estate, Leconfield, Lindemans Limestone Ridge, Majella and Zema Estate are among many producers to further emphasise the point. Riesling: The quality of Riesling in Coonawarra has never been seriously in dispute: however it has been so completely overshadowed by the reputation of the red wines, and increasingly by Chardonnay, that only two p roducers (Wynns and Hollick) have consistently made and released a Riesling in any quantity. Lindemans has now returned to the fold, and the fragrant, flowery and appealingly fruity style (so different from that of the Clare Valley) is slowly but surely gaining the recognition it deserves. Chardonnay: Still the bridesmaid in Coonawarra, with much of the tonnage being directed to sparkling wine, but nonetheless capable of producing table wine of great quality and longevity. Some hea Hvy-handed oak treatment in earlier years tended to hide the Chardonnay light under a bushel, but it is now being given the opportunity to emerge, and the future looks promising. Wynns Coonawarra Estate has transformed its style from heavy to elegant, and Katnook Estate has always produced wines of great finesse and longevity. Coonwara.picE Limestone CoastI Langhorne CreekB South Australia Langhorne Creek is one of the most fascinating yet least known of all Australian wine regions. Flying over it in a light plane in 1997 was an enthralling experience, providing an instant image (on a grand scale) of the dynamism of the Australian industry in the closing years of the twentieth century. Single vineyard developments of 300 hectares, surveyed with GPS technology and rows laid out with laser-directed precision will soon give way to 500-hectare and even larger vineyards, all supp n the course of being doubled in size. He was producing Riesling, Shiraz and Carbonet (an odd spelling of Cabernet Sauvignon), with stocks going back to 1852, his first vintage, and including a then-famous 1854 Riesling. So the high country of the Eden Valley has an equally long history of viticulture, and in fact covers an area as large as the Barossa Valley proper, albeit less intensely developed. It is windswept country; exposed hills with moderately steep gradients are commonplace. Sl ope, aspect and in particular a degree of protection from wind are as important as is the correct match of site and variety. Because the topography is so varied, and the climate neatly balanced, it produces a range of excellent wines. It is justifiably famous for its Riesling, vying for supremacy with the Clare Valley, but is also home to such renowned Shiraz vineyards as Henschke s Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone. Sauvignon Blanc (Hill-Smith Estate), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot a ll do well, too, with Irvine Wines an early harbinger of the popular move to and interest in Merlot. Its redevelopment, commencing in 1961 and running through to the early 1970s, was pioneered by Yalumba. In what now seems like a perfectly obvious move, but which at the time took both courage and vision, it decided to move the sources of all its all-important riesling from the warmer floor of the Barossa Valley to the much cooler slopes of the Eden Valley, Pewsey Vale came first, its earl y Rieslings having immediate success, and encouraging Yalumba to follow up with Heggies (and its evocative label) in 1971. Henschke, of course, had been there since 1868, but in a different part of the Valley and at a lower altitude. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Barossa Zone 35'S, 139 500 m Subregions Flaxmans Valley, High Eden, Keyneton and Springton. Climate Altitude is all-important in determining mesoclimate, although aspect and slope are also important in the varied, hilly terrain. Thus the Pewsey Vale, Heggies and High Eden vineyards at an altitude of about 500 metres at the southern end of the Eden Valley are appreciably cooler than the Henschke vineyards around Keyneton at an elevation of 380 400 metres. Overall, of course, growing season temperatures are significantly lower than those of the Barossa Valley, and the final stages of ripening (and harvesting) take place in much cooler conditions. Indeed, the hi gher vineyard sites are generally much better suited to white than red wine production. Wind is a major factor, too, in restricting both growth and yield on the typically exposed hillsides. Water availability is a limiting factor in the spread of vineyards. Statistics Heat degree days: 1390 Sunshine hours per day: 8.8 Annual rainfall: 750 mm Growing season rainfall: 280 mm Mean January temperature: 19.4 Harvest: Mid-March end April/early May Soil It hardly needs be said t hat the topography is varied, but rolling, exposed hills with moderately steep gradients are commonplace. The correct match of site and variety is critical. As one might expect given the varied terrain, there are a number of soil types, but the most common range in grey to brown in colour and from loamy sand to clay loams, with subsoils deriving from weathered rock. Ironstone gravels, quartz gravels and rock fragments are present in both the surface and subsurface. These are well suited to dryland viticulture, but there are also patches of weaker sandy soils on the slopes, underlain by weathered mica schists, and which have reduced water-holding capacity. Principal Grape Varieties Riesling: 400 ha Chardonnay: 100 ha Semillon: 40 ha Sauvignon blanc: 25 ha Total white: 565 ha Shiraz: 200 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 110 ha Pinot noir: 50 ha Merlot: 15 ha Total red: 375 ha Principal Wine Styles Riesling: Traditionally, the most important white grape (and wine) of the region developing strong lime juice aromas and flavours and with great intensity of flavour on the palate, ultimately allied with touches of lightly browned toast as the wines age. Good Eden Valley Riesling made in traditional fashion will take ten years or more to reach its peak. Heggies, Henschke and Pewsey Vale are among the best-known labels, but many other wineries source their Riesling from the Eden Valley. Shiraz: Ranks with Riesling as the most impor tant (and most highly regarded) wine of the region. Contrary to what one might expect, the wines rarely show the spicy/peppery characters of cool-climate Shiraz from other parts of southern Australia (notably Victoria); rather, they tend to more luscious plum and black cherry fruit characters, sometimes associated with touches of liquorice, and more gamey/foresty characters. Structurally, the wines are very smooth, with ripe tannins well balanced and integrated, guaranteeing a long life. H enschke s Hill of Grace stands second only to Penfolds Grange (drawing upon vines planted in the 1860s) with Mount Edelstone not far behind. Tollana s Show Reserve is another very good wine. Chardonnay: Chardonnay is a relative newcomer with the first commercial vineyards in South Australia being established at Mountadam in 1973. The variety has proved to he highly successful with rich complex wines being produced, their flavours ranging through a classic array of melon, fig and ca shew. Mountadam shows the way, but Hill-Smith Estate has also provided some very attractive wines. The only problem (which also affects other varieties) is the low yield from vineyards insufficiently protected from the wind. Cabernet sauvignon: Site climate is of key importance; the wines produced from vineyards around the Eden Valley village are of the highest quality, with perfectly ripened cassis-accented fruit flavours, but those from higher, cooler sites display more elegant d zark berry characters with green leaf undertones. The Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon is the only consistent challenger in Australian wine shows to the dominance of Coonawarra, winning trophies at seeming ease. Merlot: Ian Trvine has invested considerable faith in the variety, using it to make both table and sparkling wines with particular success in export markets. BarossaI McLaren ValeB South Australia The development of viticulture in the Barossa Valley (and to a lesser degree the Clare Valley) was fostered almost entirely by Germans from Silesia. That of the Southern Vales from Reynella to McLaren Vale to Langhorne Creek was almost exclusively due to the efforts of Englishmen. More precisely, to the efforts of three men: John Reynell, Thomas Hardy and Dr A C Kelly, with a lesser contribution from George Manning at Hope Farm. Despite the early start John Reynell laid the foundati orted by the virtually limitless irrigation water from Lake Alexandrina. A wholly impressive and striking glimpse of the present (and the future) of the Australian wine industry, but one which gives no clue about the rich history of the region a history which you find only at ground level and in the ancient workings of Potts Bleasdale winery and vineyards. Frank Potts acquired 130 hectares of land in 1850, reputedly attracted by the fertile soils and vast red gums. Ten years later he p lanted a little over 12 hectares of shiraz and verdelho on either side of the Bremer River, constructing his unique weir and channel system by which he was able to divert the Bremer River during winter, flood irrigating (to a depth of several feet) the vineyard and providing the subsoil with sufficient moisture to last through the entire growing season. Five generations later the Potts family still preside over Bleasdale, but Langhorne Creek is a different place these days. The enduring l ink with the past is the Stonyfell Vineyard, established in 1890 by Arthur Formby, but which soon passed into the ownership of Ronald Martin of Stonyfell, and hence into that of Saltram. The individually numbered and strikingly labelled bottles of Stonyfell Metala Cabernet Shiraz remain one of the most immediately recognisable of all Australian wine labels. Another label, less enduring, was that of Lindemans Oeillade Shiraz Bin 426 introduced in the 1960s. Another name for Cinsault, the O eillade Shiraz was significant as a forerunner for the arrival en masse (initially as grape purchasers) of major South Australian wine companies. Wolf Blass discovered the merits of Langhorne Creek early in the piece; not only did it play a major role in the building of his large personal empire, but also gave rise to his famous observation that only a fool would bother investing in Coonawarra an area which, in his view, could not produce decent wine. Emphatic though the endorsement by Wolf Blass may have been, an even more significant one has been made in recent years by Orlando Wyndham, which in the mid-1990s invested $15 million in a purpose-designed state-of-the-art vineyard planted specifically to meet the needs of its world brand Jacobs Creek. While the major wineries and highly efficient broad acre farming of vines remain the driving force of Langhorne Creek, the quality of the wines coming from its four small resident wineries leaves no doubt this region is well capable of producing premium-quality wines, with Lake Breeze achieving particular success in the latter part of the 1990s. Whether this ability will be generally recognised by consumers remains an open question. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Fleurieu Zone 15'S, 138 Subregions None. Climate The growing season climate is predominantly shaped by the on-shore southerly winds blowing in from the Southern Ocean and across Lake Alexandrin a. While intermittently broken by periods of hot weather associated with northerly winds emanating from Central Australia, the prevailing southerlies normally reduce diurnal temperature fluctuations; they also decrease sunshine hours and overall summer temperatures while increasing the relative humidity. The winter spring rainfall pattern persists, however, and irrigation is universally practised in parts by the unique method of diverting the Bremer River and deliberately flooding the la nd in late winter, but in the large new vineyards utilising conventional drip irrigation. The resultant mild climate produces wines which are softer and fruitier than usual, and have long been sought by the major companies as important blend components, particularly in large volume commercial red wines. Statistics Heat degree days: 1520 Sunshine hours per day: 8.3 Annual rainfall: 410 mm Growing season rainfall: 140 mm Mean January temperature: 19.9 Harvest: Early March late Apri Soil The flat river delta landscape is ideally suited for large-scale, relatively low-cost vineyard developments, with a high degree of mechanisation commonplace. These are predominantly deep alluvial sandy loams varying from red-brown to dark grey, with patches of black, self-mulching clays. All promote vine vigour and generous canopies and cropping levels. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 180 ha Verdelho: 15 ha Riesling: 12 ha Other white: 15 ha Total white: 22 2 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 825 ha Shiraz: 535 ha Merlot: 34 ha Other red: 36 ha Total red: 1430 ha Principal Wine Styles Cabernet Sauvignon and Blends: While less than 10 per cent of the wine made from grapes grown in Langhorne Creek is sold as a single-region wine, the style is relatively easy to define. On the one hand there are the wines made by the four small wineries in the region, and on the other hand there are the blended wines from the major companies in which the Langhorne Creek component makes an obvious contribution. Langhorne Creek was the anvil upon which Wolf Blass made much of his reputation in the 1970s and 80s, producing immediately accessible, soft and fragrant Cabernet blends which melted into the American oak barrels in which the wines were matured. The flavours are in the red berry spectrum, often with some gently minty overtones, seldom herbaceous and never tannic. They are not especially long-lived, nor is there any need fo r them to be so. As with the Clare Valley, Malbec adds a particular dimension when added to the blend, providing an almost riotously juicy wine, with more cassis evident. Shiraz and Blends: Sometimes released as a single varietal, but often blended with all or any of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Malbec, again producing strikingly fruity wines with flavours and aromas of cherry and mint, finishing with that hallmark regional softness, yet a hint of spice. Verdelho: Although produced in relatively small quantities, a regional specialty, particularly as a fortified wine in the style of Madeira, but increasingly handled as a soft, early-maturing table wine. Langhorn.picE FleurieuI Mount Benson and RobeB South Australia These are or will be separate regions under the Geographic Indications legislation, although there appears no good reason why this should be so. No doubt geological and climatic reasons will be advanced which will satisfy the authorities, but there will be other regions in Australia with far more diversity within their boundaries. They are among the most recent in Australia, and have no history of viticulture prior to 1989. But the potential is as exciting as that of any part of Australia ons for Chateau Reynella in 1838 viticulture initially played second fiddle to wheat, which enjoyed a brief boom during the 1850s and 1860s. As in the Clare Valley, the fertility of the soil was soon exhausted; the wheat fields disappeared as quickly as they had arrived, and by the mid-1870s the once thriving township of McLaren Vale was all but deserted. In large part due to the success of Thomas Hardy, who acquired Tintara from Dr A C Kelly in 1876, the pace of viticultural developmen t steadily picked up through the 1880s and 1890s. In 1903 over 3 million litres of wine (almost entirely red table and fortified) was made by the 19 wineries in the district. Thomas Hardy was the largest, followed (in order) by Reynella, Horndale, Vale Royal, Tatachilla, The Wattles, Kay Brothers Amery, Clarendon Vineyard, Pirramimma, Wirra Wirra, Mount Hurtle, Potts Bleasdale, Hope Vineyard, Mrs Douglas, Ryecroft, Katunga, Formby and E Potts. The prosperity was in large part founded on t he English trade, with the staple export dark coloured, high alcohol, tannic dry red wine of legendary medicinal value. This trade continued (with a brief hiatus between 1940 and 1945) until well into the 1950s, largely through the agency of the Emu Wine Company, which was ultimately acquired by Thomas Hardy from its English owners. McLaren Vale shared in the prosperity of the 1960s and 1970s, and quickly became the spiritual home of the small winery in Australia, boasting more small wine ries than any other region by the early 1970s. The one threat was urban sprawl, which progressively swallowed up the large vineyards which once existed between Reynella and Adelaide, and reduced the vineyards around Reynella to token levels. Hopefully, there will be no more major inroads. Because Adelaide s population base is small, it exerts less pressure on McLaren Vale than, for example, Melbourne does on the Yarra Valley, and winemaking plays a much greater role in the economy and hen ce the political consciousness of South Australia than it does elsewhere. On the other hand, the opportunities for expansion seem limited not so much by urban pressure as by a severe shortage of water for irrigation. The underground watertable is severely depleted, and additional surface catchment has been prohibited since the mid-1990s while an extensive water resource study is carried out. The long-term solution would seem to be with diverting and piping part of the Murray River flow, but the cost of such a scheme makes it an improbable dream. Notwithstanding these limitations, the region is experiencing prosperity reminiscent of its golden days at the end of the nineteenth century. Its traditional staples of Grenache and Shiraz (and also Mourvedre) have come thundering back into vogue at the same time as it has forged a formidable reputation for its Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Only Riesling seems impervious to the charms of McLaren Vale, obdurately prod ucing a rather heavy, oily wine. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Fleurieu Zone 14'S, 138 100 m Subregions Coromandel Valley, Morphett Vale, McLaren Flat, Seaview, Happy Valley, Reynella, Willunga and Blewitt Springs. Climate There is substantial mesoclimatic variation throughout McLaren Vale, due to varying exposure to the cooling influence of the nearby ocean (or conversely, to protection from it). There are also significant changes in al titude as the region merges with the Adelaide Hills and the Mount Lofty Ranges. Summer rainfall is low (182 mm out of a total of 656 mm), and these days irrigation is considered essential. Site selection, and site/variety marriage is all important; shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, semillon, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay all do extremely well in the appropriate location. Particularly in the foothills of the Adelaide Hills, and indeed up to the dividing line between the two regions, a far cooler climate produces wines with finer characters and flavours the white wines with greater crispness and acidity and the reds more spicy, in fact sometimes quite herbaceous. Statistics Heat degree days: 1910 Sunshine hours per day: 8.6 Annual rainfall: 660 mm Growing season rainfall: 180 mm Mean January temperature: 21.7 Harvest: Late February late April Soil There is a wide variety of soil types, even though the red-brown loamy sands of the hard red duplex grou p Dr2.23 dominate. The structurally similar grey-brown loamy sand in the Dy3.43 classification (hard mottled yellow duplex soils) with yellow clay subsoils interspersed with limey deposits, and a slightly more sandy version of the same (Dy5.42) are common. This tendency to a more sandy character reaches a peak around the Blewitt Springs region. Finally, there are patches of black or red friable loams falling in the Um6.2 and 6.4 groups the Coonawarra type, called terra rosa. Principa l Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 732 ha Semillon: 206 ha Riesling: 191 ha Sauvignon blanc: 172 ha Other white: 196 ha Total white: 1497 ha Shiraz: 797 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 473 ha Grenache: 360 ha Pinot noir: 170 ha Merlot: 121 ha Other red: 135 ha Total red: 2056 ha Principal Wine Styles Shiraz: As in so many of the premium wine growing districts of Australia, shiraz was the backbone of the industry for much of this century. It produces a densely coloured , richly flavoured wine which quickly develops a velvety texture. This is not the region for the peppery/spicy type of Shiraz, but the style of Australian wine which, in bygone years, was always labelled Burgundy. Producers such as Coriole, d Arenberg, Hardys, Maglieri, Seaview, Wirra Wirra and Woodstock all demonstrate why the region depended on the variety for so long. Cabernet Sauvignon: The wines are full-bodied and rich, often with a touch of dark chocolate intermixed with bla ckcurrant, but they avoid overripe, jammy characteristics. The tannins are plentiful but soft, and the wines have the structure for long ageing. As with Shiraz, significant amounts of wine produced in the region are blended with less rich wines from other parts of South Australia to provide body and structure in large volume commercial blends. Seaview Edwards & Chaffey is the flagbearer, strongly supported by Chapel Hill, Reynell, Wirra Wirra and Woodstock. Chardonnay: Not surprisi ngly, has established a stranglehold on white grape plantings in the region since its introduction a little over 15 years ago. The style varies according to site, maker input and vintage conditions, ranging from elegant, citrus-tinged wines through to richer, fleshier, peachy/buttery versions. Sauvignon Blanc: Arguably, the cooler sites in McLaren Vale are Australia s best area for Sauvignon Blanc; while vintage variation does play a role, in most years the wines have excellent var ietal character (tending to gooseberry/tropical rather than more weedy/grassy flavours) without becoming coarse or heavy. Semillon is often incorporated as a blend component to good effect. Grenache: As with the Barossa Valley, enjoying a spirited renaissance in the latter part of the 1990s; the older plantings produce incredibly richly flavoured wines, high in alcohol and with an almost juicy sweetness; from the sandy hillsides around Blewitt Springs more spicy, lively wines can b ^e made. All are of excellent quality, with Coriole, d Arenberg and Clarendon Hills leading the way. Riesling: More as an accident of history than anything else, there are still substantial plantings of riesling in McLaren Vale. Alas, it seldom produces a wine of distiction, most examples are flabby and soft and age disconcertingly rapidly. Vales_S.picE FleurieuI A RiverlandB South Australia When Californian George Chaffey fell foul of political duplicity in Victoria in 1887, the South Australian government quickly stepped in to capitalise on the expertise he and his brother William had developed in pioneering irrigation in California. With unconditional government support the Chaffeys selected Renmark, on the west bank of the Murray, as the site for the commencement of irrigation in South Australia. With formidable energy, the brothers had quickly laid out the site of the tow , notwithstanding the lack of prior experience and some teething problems with frost (chiefly in Mount Benson) and wind (both regions), the early results have guaranteed that plantings will be significantly expanded in the years ahead. So far, at least, access to the vast underground watertable of the southeast has not been restricted, nor is salinity yet a problem. One day the situation may change; if it does, the viticultural wheel may turn full circle, and we shall see dryland, unirrig ated vineyards in production again. But that day is a long way off. In the meantime the relatively sparse landscape, formerly home to sheep but little else, will continue to blossom with the spread of verdant of vineyards among the bleached, brown summer grasses. Only the charming seaside town of Robe, with its fleet of crayfishing boats, provides much for the tourist. But it alone is sufficient reason to make the hour s drive across from Coonawarra and see what Southcorp (the largest pla yer by far, with 150 hectares planted), Cellarmaster Wines, Mount Benson Wines and Cape Jaffa are up to. Initial vintages have emphasised just how cool the region can be. Whether they prove to be aberrational, or whether they have simply reflected relatively high yields on young vines with inadequate canopies, remains to be seen. But if the results are a true indication, only the warmer years will produce red wines falling within the commonly-accepted bounds of cool-climate style. In othe r years, incorporation into blended Limestone Coast Zone wines or into strongly branded products which do not rely on regional identification may be the best end use for the red wines. Another development has been the recent acquisition (in March 1998) of a substantial vineyard at Mount Benson by a joint venture headed by M Chapoutier & Co, a highly rated northern Rhone Valley firm. While part of the output will be white wine, some will be Shiraz; perhaps the Rhone Valley white varieties of marsanne and roussanne will follow in due course. But it seems more than probable the Chapoutier lead will cause others to follow. This has broader significance. Chapoutier considered a number of places (including California) before Australia was chosen, and has indicated that it will also be seeking to establish vineyards in Victoria in the Grampians or the Pyrenees. From an Australian perspective, it marks the only investment by a major French producer in table wine production sinc e Veuve Cliquot acquired a majority stake in Cape Mentelle, years ago; all other investments have been either by Champagne or Cognac producers. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Limestone Coast Zone 09'S, 139 47'E Robe 150 m Climate The climate is unequivocally cool, strongly maritime-influenced by the nearby ocean on one side and (at Robe) the lakes on the other. The winters are cold and wet, the growing season is long, cool and dry. The winds are pr edominantly from the south, southeast and southwest, and are particularly strong during the spring and early summer; windbreaks will be required in most vineyards, and are already found on many sites. Frost was not expected to be a problem (because of the moderating effect of the ocean) but has proved to be a problem at several vineyards at Mount Benson. Overall, summer temperatures are three degrees lower that Coonawarra; budburst, though, occurs two weeks earlier but harvest is at much t he same time, irrigation is desirable in most years, and essential in the establishment of the vineyard; it is provided by high-quality ground water which is still available. Statistics Heat degree days: 1226 Sunshine hours per day: NA Annual rainfall: 628 mm Growing season rainfall: 271 mm Mean January temperature: 22.7 Harvest: Late March late April Soil The principal soil type through the two regions is generally described as terra rossa, a red-brown soil which varies from sandy to loamy and which is typically associated with limestone. The limestone may outcrop or occur 10 50 cm below the surface. There are also areas of siliceous sands which are much deeper (up to 2 metres) and paler in colour; these typically occur on the side of ridges or hills. Overall, the soils promote only low to moderate vigour, with positive implications for wine quality. The terrain on which the vineyards have been planted is gently undulating, the surrounding natural bushlan d, scrubby and giving little clue of the potential of the area from a viticultural view point. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 53 ha Semillon: 14.5 ha Sauvignon blanc: 17 ha Shiraz: 109 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 87 ha Merlot: 26 ha Total plantings: 306.5 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Not surprisingly, chardonnay leads the plantings by a considerable distance. Given the cool growing season, it is reasonable to suppose that the wines will be slightly finer and more elegant than those of either Padthaway or Coonawarra. Only when the vines become mature will it be possible to assess the fruit intensity, and hence quality, but all the omens are propitious. Sauvignon Blanc: Three vineyards at Mount Benson and one at Robe (Southcorp) have planted sauvignon blanc. Crisp, grassy, herbaceous wines seem likely, very different from those of Padthaway (which are far richer, reflecting the distinctly warmer climate there) and closer to tho se of Coonawarra. Semillon: Only Southcorp at Robe has made a major play with this variety, planting over twelve hectares (Cape Jaffa has two hectares at Mount Benson). Southcorp viticulturist Dave Murdock, who selected the site for the vineyard, has high expectations for the variety. Yields are likely to be low, and he is hoping for wines of above average intensity. Shiraz: It is doubtless a sign of the times in other words, the mid 1990s that shiraz, rather than caber net sauvignon, should dominate plantings. The major hectareage is at Robe, but four of the Mount Benson vineyards have planted it. Spicy/peppery flavours on the vine should reflect themselves in the wines; it will be fascinating to see how they develop in comparison to those of Coonawarra. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot: These grapes provided the only wines released onto the commercial market by the start of 1997. They are soft, supple and fruity, with attractive cassis/redcurrant fO!ruit flavours, and soft tannins. Limestone CoastI KoppamurraB South Australia This is another important region to emerge with a separate identity in the wake of the Geographical Indications process. Only Pemberton (in Western Australia) has generated as much debate over its correct name. Until April 1998 it seemed the area might be called the Naracoorte Ranges, but a last-minute compromise cleared the way for it to be called Koppamurra, a victory for commonsense. After a slow start (Koppamurra Wines was established in 1973) the pace of development has accelerated d n, with the wide streets and parklands which remain a feature to this day. It was not long, however, before the Chaffeys were back in Victoria, developing Mildura for a by then chastened Victorian government. In 1893 the Renmark Irrigation Trust took over responsibility for the area, and for maintaining the irrigation channels which had already started to fall into disrepair. The Trust has since been responsible both for the town of Renmark and for 4800 hectares of orchards and vineyards in the district; it is in turn effectively run by local landholders. The Riverland has long been recognised as the engine-room that has driven the Australian wine industry. The region produces nearly 60 per cent of all of South Australia s grapes and that translates to nearly 30 per cent of Australia s grape production. Until recently, the area has been mostly known for the quantity of wine it produces but this has changed in recent years with the focus switching to the quality of its w ines. Increased quality is being achieved by better viticultural practices (trellising and canopy management), better water usage (less total water, improved monitoring of soil moisture and the gradual replacement of flood or overhead irrigation with drip irrigation), and improved grape varieties and clones. The process of change is set to continue well into the twenty-first century. Other white and red varieties are in fact a mix of inferior wine grape varieties or the so-called multi -purpose grapes which can be used for wines, for drying into sultanas and raisins, or as table grapes. Slowly but surely these will be replaced bt the better quality wine grapes and in particular by chardonnay and shiraz. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Lower Murray Zone 17'S, 140 38'E Berri 10'S, 140 45'E Renmark Subregions Ramco, Barmera, Morgan, Kingston, Qualco, Renmark, Loxton, Lyrup, Murtho, Berri, Waikerie, Moorok and Monash. Climate The climate is hot with high evaporation rates and low rainfall, making irrigation essential. The climate is also continental resulting in long sunny days and noticeably cooler nights. Modern viticultural and winemaking techniques mean this climate can be seen as one of the region s strengths. Long sunshine hours ensure fruit ripeness, while a strongly winter dominant rainfall results in low disease incidence and allows the viticulturists the choice of how much moisture the vine receives d uring the growing season. Statistics Heat degree days: 2084 Sunshine hours per day: 9.6 Annual rainfall: 269 mm Growing season rainfall: 139 mm Mean January temperature: 23 Harvest: Mid-February mid-April Soil The soils are red-brown sandy loam often overlying a limestone substrate. Fertility rates are moderate. As with the entire Murray Darling basin, salinity is an increasingly important issue and will affect all aspects of land use in future generations. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 1638 ha Colombard: 401 ha Other white: 4604 ha Total white: 6643 ha Shiraz: 1711 ha Mourvedre: 353 ha Grenache: 643 ha Other red: 3293 ha Total red: 6000 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: As ever, chardonnay proves itself to be incredibly flexible. Cropped heavily, and fermented in vast stainless steel fermenters with or without the use of oak chips, it produces a perfectly pleasant but unremarkable wine which sells at an a ttractive price. But as Renmano has so convincingly demonstrated with its Chairman s Selection Chardonnay, disciplined viticulture and barrel fermentation can produce wines of gold medal and trophy quality. Kingston Estate, too, has produced some excellent wines under both its Reserve and varietal labels. Finally, a substantial component of Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay is sourced from the Riverland. Shiraz: If limiting the yield is important in maximising the potential of chardonnay , it is quite critical with shiraz. Of course, all things are relative: a low crop in the Murray is still substantial, and the best wines are soft and round, but are best consumed while young. Angove s, Normans Lone Gum and Kingston Estate produce excellent examples. Mourvedre and Grenache: While there are many young vineyards in the Riverland, there are also significant areas with vines over 80 years old. Many of these consist of grenache and mourvedre which were until recently se en as workhorse varieties for use in cask reds and fortifieds. Fruit from these old vines, often in combination with shiraz, is now being used to produce medium-bodied spicy red wines which exemplify the sunny, fruit-driven Australian style. Merlot: Some very pleasant Merlots have been made by Kingston Estate, and it is likely plantings of this variety will increase in the years ahead, both for use with cabernet sauvignon and in its own right. Lower MurrayI A PadthawayB South Australia If Coonawarra is not quite on the way to anywhere, Padthaway is on the way to nowhere. If you can pass through Coonawarra without noticing very much, you can pass through Padthaway without noticing anything at all. Its birth was both recent and humble, and initially the major wine companies (which have a near monopoly on its plantings) entirely misread its potential. Yet 30 years after the first vines were planted there, and notwithstanding the degree of trial and error, it is now clearly ramatically over the course of this decade. There are now 11 major vineyard developments and it was estimated that by the end of the 1996 planting season 1000 hectares of vineyards had been established. As in the case of Padthaway, much of the production is used by major wine companies (notably BRL Hardy, Mildara Blass and Yalumba) in blended wines, so full recognition of the importance of the region may be slow in coming. In 1997 plans were announced for the construction of a major contr act crushing and winemaking facility. Its primary purpose will be to service the needs of the major grape (and bulk wine) buyers from the region. Chief winemaker (and part-owner) is Pat Tocaciu, formerly of Hollick Wines, and before then chief winemaker at Tollana. He will bring a wealth of experience with him, and it is clear that contract crush and winery facilities of this kind will become an increasingly common and important part of the scene in Australia. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Limestone Coast Zone 45'S, 36 57'E 105 mm Subregions None. Climate The climate is poised between that of neighbours Coonawarra and Padthaway, warmer than the former and cooler than the latter, although there is surprising variation across the region. Relative humidity and rainfall (and hence the risk of disease) are slightly lower than the other two regions, and the risk of frost is significantly less. Irrigation is essential, but there is sufficient underground water of appropriate quality (salinity is not a problem) to irrigate 10 000 hectares of vines in the region if no other irrigated agriculture was carried on. As the statistics indicate, this is a temperate region especially well suited to the production of high-quality red wines. Statistics Heat degree days: 1468 Struan; 1535 Naracoorte Sunshine hours per day: 7.9 Annual rainfall: 550 mm Struan; 578 mm Naracoorte Growing season rainfall: 205 mm Struan; 23 2 mm Naracoorte Mean January temperature: 19.4 C Struan; 20.5 C Naracoorte Harvest: Mid-March mid-May Soil The Naracoorte Ranges are the last in a series extending from the coast, and has permitted the establishment of vineyards at an elevation of 75 100m above sea level on gently undulating slopes. This facilitates cold air drainage and combined with the elevation provides a significant measure of frost protection for the region. The vineyards of the region are almost exclusively planted on the so-called terra rossa soils made famous in Coonawarra, deriving from the ancient coastal dunes and seabed formations which give the Limestone Coast its name. Technically known as non-cracking, subplastic clays, they are very friable and free draining, and retain their excellent physical properties under intensive farming use. Fertility is moderate to high, deriving in part from the very good structure and partly from the neutral to mildly alkaline chemical balance. Substanti al yields are achieved without loss of quality. Principal Grape Varieties Detailed statistics are not available, but the most important varieties are cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and merlot, with relatively little chardonnay, pinot noir and riesling. Principal Wine Styles The predominant varieties (by far) are of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, with lesser quantities of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and only relatively small amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This pattern at tests in part to the mild climate (similar to that of Padthaway) and in part to the market demands of the mid-1990s which were so firmly fixed on medium to full-bodied dry red wines. Most of the production, obviously enough, has been blended away by the larger producers, presumably using the 85 per cent rule (which permits the inclusion of 15 per cent of Naracoorte Ranges wine in either Coonawarra or Padthaway, for example). The only wines to be released between 1980 and 1996 bearing the Koppamurra (or Naracoorte Ranges) appellation have been those of Koppamurra Wines, with intermittent releases of wines contract-made at other wineries under the direction of John Greenshields. Often with a strong Merlot influence, the style has tended to leafy/cedary/cigar box sometimes stiffened by a touch of gritty/gravelly tannin. In early 1998 Mildara Blass released the Mildara Flanagan s Ridge Cabernet Merlot, bearing the regional name Koppamurra. This acted as a lightning rod for th e resolution of the long and drawn out conflict over the use of that name for the region. That consequence aside, the wine has a much softer profile and ligher weight than the products of Koppamurra Wines which, up until that time were the only yardsticks to go by. Perhaps it points to the future, in more ways than one. Now that the legal hurdles have been cleared, a broader range of wines from a number of producers will appear; it is diffult to say, but I would expect them to have more i n common with Padthaway than Coonawarra. That to one side, it will certainly expand the range of styles coming from the regions within the Limestone Coast Zone. Limestone CoastI Northern TasmaniaB Tasmania While geographically proximate, the Pipers River and Tamar Valley subregions emphasise how dangerous generalisations about Tasmania are, and how important are site selection, aspect, clonal selection and cropping levels. The Pipers River region is particularly well suited to the production of finely structured, super-premium sparkling wines made from the classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a touch of Pinot Meunier. Jansz (now owned by Yalumba) and Clover Hill are national brands; one of Australia s premium white wine producers. The region s potential was pinpointed by a Seppelt committee appointed in the early 1960s to select suitable vineyard sites for large-scale planting of early-ripening grape varieties. The requirements were ready availability of land (at a modest price), a cool climate, and plentiful water for irrigation. The committee s research turned up a 1944 CSIRO (Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation) report which had focused on a 3200-hectare block of country north of Naracoorte, and which concluded: The soil type is variable in depth and there are usually some stony portions on each of the small patches in which it occurs. It is a terra rossa soil . . . the deeper sites of the terra rossa soils should make first class garden soils. Only then did the Seppelt viticulturists visit the region, and duly identified a strip running for 16 kilometres along the Naracoorte to Padthaway road, and which fell within the narrow 550-millimetre rainfall belt but with unlimited underground water. One of the nearby principal farming and grazing properties was Keppoch Park, and Seppelt gave the name Keppoch to the region, a choice initially adopted by Thomas Hardy when it purchased its first land in 1968. Lindemans arrived the same year, but selected land further north at Padthaway, and used that name. Wynns, the other big company land-holder, has never made a regional wine (all of its production is blended, much into sparkling wine) so did not enter the tug-of-war over the name. After a decade or more of confusion, all agreed on Padthaway, which went some way to giving the region a sense of identity. However, it was not until 1997 that any of the major players installed more than field crushing stations. Then in April 1997 BRL Hardy announced plans to build an $18 million, 10 000-tonne winery on land south of the Padthaway township, completed in time for the 1998 vintage, and which employs 1 5 people full-time, including three winemakers. To add historical insult to injury, Seppelt initially decided to concentrate on red wines (relying on Drumborg to produce the white wines), while Lindemans envisaged the region as a producer of medium-quality white and red wine to go into its lower to mid-priced bottle range (casks were then but a bright idea for the future, with numerous technical problems unsolved). That Padthaway is now to white wine what Coonawarra is to red is due simpl y to the quality of the wine it has produced, quality which has overridden prejudice, isolation and lack of glamour (for want of a better word). Padthaway falls within a buffer zone between Victoria and South Australia which imposes strict controls on water usage. No further irrigation rights are being granted, and this has restricted (and will in the future restrict) the spread of viticulture. The one major independent grower (the Brown family) supplies Orlando, which acquired 165 hectar es of land and established a vineyard of its own in the latter part of the 1980s. The only other acquisitions (in 1989) have been by Andrew Garrett Wines (now part of Mildara) and by Angove To this day the one great drawcard is Padthaway Estate, a magnificent two-storey Victorian homestead now offering luxurious Relais et Chateaux-type accommodation to a handful of lucky guests. Padthaway Estate has also established its own sparkling and table wine winery on the property in a superb st one shearing shed. More recently the Browns of Padthaway brand has been launched, but the wine is made elsewhere under contract. What is more, it has only been since the mid-1990s that Padthaway has been given a chance to show what it can really do. Flood irrigation (leading, incidentally, to ever-increasing levels of salinity), minimal pruning, and management practices solely designed to maximise yield per acre were the rule rather than the exception, and still continue to be practised i n some vineyards. Orlando s Lawsons Shiraz and its sister wine Chardonnay, Lindemans Padthaway Chardonnay, and blend components in the top Hardys, Lindemans, Wynns and Penfolds wines conclusively prove Padthaway can do much better if given the chance. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Limestone Coast Zone 37'S, 140 Subregions None. Climate As one would expect given its proximity to Coonawarra, and given the absence of any significant m ountains, the climate is similar to that of Coonawarra, and is likewise significantly maritime-influenced. Its bias towards white wines is surprising given that it is significantly warmer (HDD 1610) than Coonawarra, with more sunshine hours, lower rainfall and fewer rain days (only 180 mm in the growing season). It was no doubt the climatic statistics which led to its founders assuming it would succeed better as a red wine area, when the reality has been otherwise. Irrigation is essential, water availability being a strictly limiting factor in an area of otherwise vast potential, with spring frosts a major threat. There were three major frosts in the 1980s and 90s which prompted the installation of overhead sprinkler frost protection systems in vineyards particularly at risk. Statistics Heat degree days: 1610 Sunshine hours per day: 8.2 Annual rainfall: 530 mm Growing season rainfall: 180 mm Mean January temperature: 20.4 Harvest: Early March Soil landscape avoids the dead flat monotony of Coonawarra, but the slopes are gentle. The principal garden soil identified by the CSIRO in 1944 is in fact the same soil which dominates the Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, Watervale and McLaren Vale: red-brown loamy sand soils in the hard red duplex group Dr 2.23. The subsoils are strongly alkaline, and on some of the ridges sandy soils in the Uc2.21 group overlie a similar limestone base to that found in Coonawarra. There are also patches of s urface soil identical to the bright red soil of Coonawarra falling into the shallow friable loam group of Um6.41, 6.42 and 6.43. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 750 ha Riesling: 410 ha Semillon: 90 ha Other white: 198 ha Total white: 1448 ha Shiraz: 540 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 420 ha Merlot: 130 ha Pinot noir: 120 ha Other red: 70 ha Total red: 1280 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Clearly the most successful of all of the table wines of this region. There is a particular character to the fruit flavour which is evident in the majority of the vintages, and which (without the intervention of oak) is strongly reminiscent of grapefruit, although the flavours also extend to more conventional melon, fig and white peach. An additional attribute is the ability to age gracefully in bottle, witnessed by the success of mature Padthaway Chardonnays at the National Wine Show of Australia. Lindemans, Hardys and Orlando have all from time to time produced Chardonnays of outstanding merit and character from Padthaway. Cabernet Sauvignon: Released either as a single varietal, or blended with Merlot, the wine is typically of medium body, fragrant and with cool (rather than warm) climate characters to the fore. The tannins are fine and soft, and the wine does not need (nor is it usually given) significant oak influence. The wines enter the plateau of drinkability quite quickly, but are capable of lingering on that plateau for many years. As with much of the wine from Padthaway, it is often blended with wines from other regions. Shiraz: Like Cabernet, frequently blended with wines from other South Australian regions, but as from time to time appears either as a single region varietal, or as a significant component. Orlando and Hardys have both produced excellent wines using this formula. Yield has to be controlled if Shiraz is to give of its best in the region, and the reality is that much of the pr oduction is of above optimum yields and hence directed to lower-priced products. Riesling: Once again, frequently used as a workhorse, albeit to good effect with major brands such has Hardys Siegersdorf. Intermittent releases of high-quality Botrytised Rieslings are among the best of this style to be found in Australia, and are indeed of international standard, with intense lime, apricot and cumquat aromas and flavours. The best also withstand prolonged cellaring. Pinot Noir:</ mB> As temperamental in Padthaway as in any other region, but by and large and against all of the climatic indications has done better in Padthaway than in Coonawarra when used to make table wine. One or two truly outstanding wines have been produced over the years, with some impressive mid-priced Pinot Noirs appearing in recent years, notably from Lindemans. Padway.picE Limestone CoastI Southern TasmaniaB Tasmania When Italian-born Claudio Alcorso planted vines at Moorilla Estate 110 years after Bartholemew Broughton, the official view of the Department of Agriculture was that commercial viticulture was not feasible in Tasmania. The richly varied subregions of the south and east have since emphatically proved otherwise. Since that time viticulture has spread across southern and eastern Tasmania in a deceptively wide range of climate and terroir. Vintage variation is extreme (1994 was a great year, Pipers Brook launched its own flagship Methode Champenoise mid-1988; while Joe Chromy is persevering with his R V Methode Champenoise (and associated Flyt table wines). Other makers of Methode Champenoise (chiefly from the mainland) eagerly snap up whatever is available for sparkling wine use, which at least for the time being t much, guaranteeing high grape prices. Pipers River also produces fine, long-lived Riesling, flowery Gewurztraminer and heady Pinot Gris. While botrytis i s a frequent visitor, it is usually held within acceptable bounds for these varieties. The Riesling, in particular, has the same capacity to develop in bottle as its mainland counterparts; 10 15 years or even more if cellaring conditions are favourable. With the qualified exception of Pinot Noir, which succeeds in the better, warmer vintages, the Pipers River region has proved unsuited to the production of red wines. No one has been foolhardy enough to plant shiraz, but even merlot, caber net franc and cabernet sauvignon have provided a meagre return, tending to be excessively herbaceous, with bitter green bean flavours. The Tamar Valley is almost the opposite, producing full-flavoured and deeply coloured Cabernet, ripe complex Chardonnay and robust Pinot Noir. Here Rotherhythe and Notley Gorge show that the smaller producers can shine, although the lean figure of contract winemaker Andrew Hood has had much to do with the spectacular success of Notley Gorge. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 07'S, 147 10'E Pipers Brook 27'S, 147 10'E Launceston 210 m Pipers Brook 81 m Launceston Subregions Pipers River and Tamar Valley. Climate The Pipers River boasts a climate comparable to Champagne and the Rhine Valley. But while the heat summation is perilously low at 1020 HDD, sunshine hours are generous (7.3) and high sugar levels are achieved in years in which late season rains do not intervene (the growing season rainfall averages 310 mm). Pipers River benefits from relatively high humidity which is beneficial in promoting and accelerating physiological ripeness. Spring frosts have proved to be a major problem in some sites, with overhead sprinklers the only effective answer. The mesoclimate of the Tamar Valley is obviously profoundly influenced by the broad estuary of the Tamar River; while the heat summations are not significantly greater (the MJT is still about the 17.2 C of Pipers River), the net result is wines which altogether belie the climate, suggesting it is far warmer than the raw figures substantiate. It is also highly probable there is an interaction between the differing soil types, which magnifies the apparent climatic differences. Statistics Heat degree days: 1020 Sunshine Hours per day: 7.3 Annual rainfall: 790 mm Growing season rainfall: 310 mm Mean January temperature: 17.2 Harvest: Early April late May Soil The vividly coloured soils of the hil lside slopes of the Pipers River region, interspersed with luxuriant stands of eucalypts, are different from the open banks and greyer soils of the Tamar Valley. However, slope and aspect are of critical importance in both regions, and determine what varieties can be successfully grown. The red to red brown/orange soils of the Pipers River region are deep and friable and promote vigorous vine growth. The Tamar Valley has a preponderance of gravelly basalt on a heavy clay and ironstone base Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 83 ha Riesling: 17 ha Pinot noir: 75 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 28 ha Other: 32 ha Total: 235 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Is capable of assuming a Joseph s Coat of style hues as it responds to the varying influences of the vineyard site (and in particular the degree of botrytis activity) and the winemaker s philosophy and technique. These are usually much more fine and delicate than most other Australian Chardonnay s and are unified by their capacity to develop in bottle, and by an unsurprising European edge to the tangy citrus and apple fruit flavours. Some of Australia s best unwooded Chardonnays are produced here (and in the south). The top producers include Heemskerk, Iron Pot Bay, Notley Gorge and Pipers Brook. Riesling: Less fashionable, and hence less frequently encountered, but particularly in the Pipers River region, the Rieslings are often superb. The Riesling, in particular, repays cellaring for a decade or more, its steely intensity unfolding as the years go by. Pipers Brook is the yardstick by which all others are measured. Pinot Noir: The two subregions provide a near-perfect example of the sensitivity and unpredictability of this variety. The wines of Pipers River are fragrant, stylish but often perilously light, while those of the Tamar Valley can stray into brawny, dry red wine with colour, extract and tannin, but lack varietal character. Each district can, however, produce marvellous wines when the vintage conditions are right, those of Pipers River being elegant and delicate, those of the Tamar rich and sensual. Delamere, Heemskerk, Notley Gorge, Pipers Brook, Rochecombe and Rotherhythe span the full spectrum of style. Sparkling Wines: These are of great and growing importance, which is hardly surprising considering the Champagne (France) comparisons. Heemskerk s Jansz and Taltarni s Clover Hill have gained both national and i nternational acclaim as the volume of their production and the refinement of their style continues, while the remote Lake Barrington produces beautifully balanced wines in tiny quantities. As if to prove the point, Pipers Brook has now joined the band. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot: These varieties flourish in the Tamar River, producing wines of at times unexpectedly dense and ripe aromas and flavours, and with considerable extract and very fine tannins. Most Pipers River producers source their cabernet sauvignon from the Tamar Valley. Resident producers of special note are Holm Oak, Marion s Vineyard and Notley Gorge. D Tas_N.picE TasmaniaI South West CoastB Western Australia Once an improbably configured region stretching 150 kilometres from the western outskirts of Perth south to the town of Bunbury, the secession of Geographe from the southern half makes sense for both regions underlined by the fact that they lie in different zones. Quite why the region persisted with the name South West Coastal is another (unexplained) question. Perth Coastal would have been a far more logical name, but then the whole matrix of Zone and Regional names in Western Australi 1996 perfectly appalling) and adds to the Chinese puzzle of individual site selection. As the information given in the region in brief (below) suggests, there are in truth four distinct subregions which have significant differences, especially in topography and climate. The Derwent Valley was not only the birthplace of the industry in Tasmania, but it played a key role in its rebirth. Each of the vineyards lie immediately adjacent to, or within site of, the Derwent River, which has a si gnificant effect on site climate, and in particular reducing the risk of spring frost. Here sparkling wines, Riesling, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are best; fuller-bodied red wines are conspicuous by their absence. The extremely beautiful Huon Valley, in fact a maze of hills and valleys with serpentine intrusions of the ever-close sea, produces surprisingly rich Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with greater weight and flavour than the location of this most southerly of Australian vineyards would s uggest. Paradoxes continue with the Coal River, extending east and northeast from Richmond, and which relies on the Coal River Irrigation Scheme which was completed in the late 1980s. Prior to that time, only George Park at Stoney Vineyard had attempted viticulture (on a mirco-scale) because of the low rainfall. However, he proved how amenable the climate was (water excepted) by successfully ripening and making Zinfandel. Today the Coal River has many well-established and flourishing vine yards, and is home to the highly successful and crucial contract-winery business of Andrew Hood (of Wellington Wines). The East Coast particularly around Bicheno provides yet another change of pace. Careful site selection (most notably in the case of Freycinet, and adjacent Coombend, and of Apsely Gorge), has resulted in wines which are altogether free of the vegetal or acidic characters of some cool-climate regions. In the case of both Freycinet (sitting in a natural bowl or amphithe atre) and Apsley Gorge (the name tells all), extra warmth is trapped and retained during the long summer days, and this is very much in evidence in the generosity of their wines. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 45'S, 147 00'E Derwent Valley 02'S, 147 02'E Huon Valley 44'S, 147 25'E Coal River 53'S, 148 19'E East Coast (Bicheno) 175 m Subregions Derwent Valley, Huon Valley, Coal River and East Coast. Climate Given the diversity of th e sites some totally maritime-influenced, others less so it is not surprising that there is significant variation. However, Hobart (on the Derwent River) sets the scene with an HDD summation of 918. But as in northern Tasmania, this figure seems misleading: Dr Andrew Pirie has suggested that sunshine, which is stronger in southern Tasmania than that encountered in benchmark European regions, explains why in particular sites (with appropriate protection from wind) a surprising range of varieties can be ripened in a majority of years, particularly in the Coal River region. Surprisingly, low and irregular rainfall in all subregions other than the Huon Valley (ranging between 500 mm to something over 650 mm at Bicheno on the east coast) makes irrigation essential, and wine (particularly from the sea) is a major problem for some vineyard sites. Statistics Heat degree days: 918 Sunshine hours per day: 5.9 Annual rainfall: 570 mm Growing season rainfall: 280 mm an January temperature: 16.8 Harvest: Early April early May Soil These vary substantially, those on the Lower and Upper Derwent being shallow sandstone-based soils with some schist, which reinforces the necessity for irrigation. The soils at Coal River vary: most are similar to those of the Derwent, being weakly structured, sandy, and low in humus (though with less schist), but there are patches of dark black peaty alluvial soils on which vines are being established. Principa l Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 20 ha Riesling: 8 ha Pinot noir: 40 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 12 ha Other: 5 ha Total: 85 ha Principal Wine Styles Pinot Noir: Vies for supremacy with chardonnay, and is by far the most important red grape in all subregions except the Coal River, where cabernet sauvignon and merlot are also prominent. Some of Australia s most spectacularly rich, ripe and full Pinot Noirs have come from the east coast and the Huon Valley, deeply coloured , with strong spiced plum aromas and flavours, and with an above-average capacity to develop in bottle. Freycinet, Springvale, Elsewhere, Apsley Gorge, Craigow, Wellington and Winstead are among many fine producers. Chardonnay: Does well in all the subregions, although a minor part of the Coal River scene. Some makers prefer the unwooded style, which allows the delicate melon and fig flavours to express themselves, and which suits the crisp acidity of the finish. Overall, these fin ely structured wines benefit from cellaring for a number of years. Apsley Gorge, Freycinet, Meadowbank, Moorilla Estate and Wellington are among the best. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot: The Coal River and the east coast are southern Tasmania s answer to the Tamar Valley; each region produces solidly structured wines which, particularly in warmer vintages, avoid the herbal/grassy/minty characters found in excessively cool-grown Cabernet. Fine tannins and good acidity are hallmarks o f the wines. Coombend, Craigie Knowe and Stoney Vineyard (Domaine A) set the pace. Sparkling Wines: The early view of Tasmania as a whole was that it was suited to the production of sparkling wines and not much else. For a time the pedulum swung completely in the opposite direction, but has now come back to a point of balance. The establishment of Stefano Lubiana s specialist sparkling wine facility on the banks of the Derwent River has played a large part in this; he not only pro duces fully fledged ready-for-sale sparkling wines for his own label and for other Tasmania wineries, but also provides contract crush facilities for major mainland producers and does all these things very well. D Tas_S.picE TasmaniaI A GeographeB Western Australia The newly created Geographe region is a far more compact and logical area than the sprawling South West Coastal Plain from which it has been excised. Its centre is Bunbury, its southern (or, more properly, southeastern) corner is Busselton, while the Harvey River meanders through the northern boundary on its way to the coast. It is bisected by the Vasse, Capel, Fergusson, Collie and Brunswick rivers, which as they descend from the hills in the east create valleys with distinctive clima a defies logic and common sense. As at March 1998, it seems unlikely that the South West Coastal Plain will achieve Geographic Indication status in the near future, if ever. That part of it lying north of Perth notably Wanneroo, home of Paul Conti Wines, has been taken into Greater Perth, which displeases Paul Conti as much as it does Will Nairn of Peel Estate. It breaks up a region which has more claim to a coherent viticultural identity than most in Australia, simply because of its uni que soil. Only Coonawarra possesses a soil type of equivalent importance and distinctiveness to that of the South West Coastal region. There it is a limestone-derived terra rossa; here it is the fine, grey tuart sands which have the remarkable characteristic of being impassable to conventional two-wheel drive cars when dry, but drivable after rain. They take their name from the massive tuart gum trees which they (sometimes insecurely) support: the extremely free-draining nature of the soi ls means that the roots of the gums tend to spread out saucer-like near the surface, and windstorms can wreak a heavy toll. This free-draining character also means that drip irrigation is essential to counterbalance the extremely dry summer months: the winter bias of the Swan District, Margaret River and South West Coastal Plain is the most extreme in Australia. The region possesses a character all of its own, with azure blue dams (often stocked with the elusive marron), scented wildflowe rs and its own versions of the Australian native trees, shrubs and plants which so beautify Western Australia. It has not grown much over the past decade, and seems likely to quietly continue with its own business in the years ahead. Given the frenetic pace of development further south, this may ultimately prove to be a blessing for what is a unique part of the Australian vinous landscape. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Greater Perth Zone 45'S, 32 Subregions None. Climate As Dr John Gladstones has observed, The Perth coastal strip has a more favourable climate for viticulture than the Swan Valley which is immediately inland from it. Temperature variability and monthly highest temperatures in summer are significantly lower, and the average afternoon relative humidity higher, due to an earlier and more regular arrival of the south-westerly summer sea breeze (usually by about noon). Excellent ground water reserves fac ilitate irrigation, which is essential, but in one or two vineyards seems to have been used to excess. Statistics Heat degree days: NA Sunshine hours per day: NA Annual rainfall: 547 mm Growing season rainfall: 164 mm Mean January temperature: NA Harvest: Early March early April Soil The limestone-based tuart sands are deep, but relatively infertile. Their free-draining structure is an advantage so long as irrigation is used which, given the plentiful underground water, should not be a problem. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay Chenin blanc Shiraz Cabernet sauvignon Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: As with all of the wines of the region, has a certain softness and lightness. At the richer end of the range, this is a virtue; at the weaker end it is not. Nor does the use of oak help much: presented unwooded, the wines can be thin and flavourless; with oak, tasting of wood but little else. However, Paul Conti in particular but a lso Peel Estate, have shown that good quality Chardonnay can be made. Chenin Blanc: One of Western Australia s favourite daughters, planted widely in the Swan District, the Margaret River and elsewhere. Here on the South West Coast it is the specialty of Peel Estate, where it is made in both unoaked and opulently oaked versions. Both wines have a distinct ability to develop complexity with several years bottle age. Shiraz: The most widely planted red variety and by far the best performed. The wines tend to be medium-bodied, with a soft, silky texture reminiscent of mature Hunter Valley red wines and echoes of similar flavours. Like the Hunter Valley, too, the wines age gracefully for a decade or more, and achieve considerable finesse, notably those of Peel Estate. This ability is demonstrated annually, with a blind tasting of the best Australian Shirazes (including Peel Estate) which are then six years old. Cabernet Sauvignon: Grown in lesser quantitK ies, and with the current popularity of Shiraz, the balance is unlikely to change. The wines are pleasantly soft, with pronounced, ripe berry fruit flavours, and no herbaceous edges. Greater PerthI Great SouthernB Western Australia Even by the standards of Australia, this is a large region: a rectangle 150 kilometres deep and 100 kilometres wide. It embraces climates which range from strongly maritime-influenced to moderately continental, and an ever-changing topography: there are the immense eucalypts of the south coast near Denmark and Albany which surround tiny vineyards like Tingle-Wood (taking its name from the Tingle forest from which it was hewn), the striking round boulders and sweeping vistas of the Porongur Indeed, while there are (as yet) no officially recognised subregions, there are in truth three quite distinct areas. The first is the true coastal sector, stretching from Busselton to Bunbury, and with the lush, peaceful Capel River (and the town of Capel) at its centre. Wholly maritime-influenced by the warm Indian Ocean, its climate is similar to that of the northern part of the Margaret River, although the soil types vary considerably the richer alluvial soils around Capel leadi ng to exceptionally vigorous vine growth. Next is the Donnybrook area, which has a distinctly different climate, as it is cut off from the maritime influence of the Indian Ocean by the intervention of the Darling and Whicher ranges. The net result is a climate which Dr John Gladstones describes as closely resembling that of Bendigo and Rutherglen in Victoria, with considerable diurnal temperature fluctuations. The third subdistrict is sometimes referred to as the Bunbury Hills, falling i n the foothills and hills of the Darling Range. One of the most favoured locations is the Fergusson Valley; early success with Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon has led to rapid expansion in plantings, including a single 80-hectare vineyard being established over the 1997 and 1998 planting seasons. The major winery is, and has been from the start, Capel Vale, driven by the energy and passion of Perth-based radiologist Dr Peter Pratten. Indeed, the comparisons between Capel Vale and Evans & Tate (of the Margaret River) are easily drawn, even down to some of the personalities involved. Capel Vale draws grapes from as far afield as Mount Barker, but also has a substantial involvement and interest in all of the Geographe subregions. It is an area of considerable beauty and even greater variation in its topography and scenery. The unifying force is the West Australian flora: magnificent gum trees, ranging from the tuarts of the coastal sands of the same na me through to marri and karri further inland, and the spectacular, omnipresent native shrubs and flowers. As the nearby Margaret River region continues to grow, and to receive ever more wine tourists year by year, the less populated Geographe region will hold steadily increasing attraction for visitors. Much the same transfer to tourist traffic happened between the Barossa Valley and the Clare Vallley, and history has a habit of repeating itself. The Region in Brief Location and Elev ation South West Australia Zone 18'S, 115 70 m Subregions None. Climate The climate of the coastal region is warm, sunny and dry (in the growing season), with minimal diurnal temperature fluctuations. Dr John Gladstones observes it is close to that of Frontignan (on the south coast of France) except for having more winter rain and a drier summer. It shares with the Bunbury Hills the tempering effect of sea breezes which take hold relatively early in the day, and high afternoon relative humidity which alleviates the stress the warm climate might otherwise induce. While frost presents no threat on the coast, and should not threaten the Bunbury Hills, site selection at Donnybrook is important if frosts are to be avoided. In all regions, the rainfall is strongly winter spring dominant, with summer rainfall ranging from 185 mm at Bunbury to 220 mm at Donnybrook. Statistics Heat degree days: 1700 Sunshine hours per day: 8.5 Annual rainfall: 900 mm Growing season rainfall: 185 mm Mean January temperature: 22 Harvest: Early February mid-March Soil The coastal tuart sands have limestone as their parent material, and overlie limestone; a permanent watertable at a depth of between 3 and 15 metres is a further aid to viticulture. However, low natural fertility and ready leaching of nutrients mean care has to be taken to achieve the best results. The soils of the traditional farming and orchard land at Donnybrook are richer, being either gravelly sandy loams or heavier soils derived from the gneissic country rock in the valleys. To a lesser or greater degree, all share the characteristics so important to high-quality grape growing. First and foremost, they are free-draining. Each in its own way then provides water holding capacity at depths; the tuart sands water table under limestone, the orchard type land holding water evenly distributed through it. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 57 ha Semillon: 12 ha Sauvignon blanc: 4 ha Riesling: 4 ha Verdelho: 2 ha Other white: 2 ha Total white: 81 ha Shiraz: 31 ha Merlot: 15 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 13 ha Pinot noir: 6 ha Zinfandel: 2 ha Grenache: 2 ha Total red: 69 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: The ubiquitous chardonnay is propagated everywhere in the region, producing wines which reflect the varying site climates (and, of course, the hand of the winemaker). The cooler sites produce wines with i ntense grapefruit characters (particularly evident in some of the Capel Vale Chardonnays), the warmer sites veering through melon to butter and cashews (those of Killerby enjoying a particularly strong reputation). All develop well in bottle over the medium term. Semillon: It comes as something of a surprise to find that semillon is the second most widely planted variety, a considerable distance in front of sauvignon blanc and riesling. As in nearby Margaret River, it is typically blended to good effect with Sauvignon Blanc, producing a crisp, tangy wine with grassy/herbal overtones; a light touch of oak is an optional extra. Riesling: Virtually an exclusivity of Capel Vale, which has produced a string of excellent Rieslings over the years but typically with the acid of Mount Barker grapes. As one would expect, the wines handsomely repay cellaring for five years or more, gaining complexity yet not losing their core and wine juice and similar citrus flavour Shiraz: By far the most important grape, usually presented as a varietal wine but also used in complex multi-blends. The weight and extract varies substantially, Killerby producing the more robust style, Capel Vale softer and perhaps more elegant, but each with a core of cherry and mint fruit. The deluxe Kinnaird release by Capel Vale sets new standards for the variety. Cabernet Sauvignon: Cabernet Sauvignon, whether blended with Merlot or not, tends to be finer and more % delicate than that of either the Margaret River of Mount Barker regions, with soft, fine-grained tannins. However, the spread of plantings inland from the coast will result in more diverse styles, particularly when the newer vineyards reach maturity. Fergusson Falls is an exciting newcomer. South West AustraliaI Margaret RiverB Western Australia Whether it is in part due to the subliminal suggestion of the name I do not know, but I have always felt there is a feminine quality to the soft beauty of the Margaret River region. Yet at one and the same time it is uncompromisingly Australian: Western Australia is home to many of our most striking native plants, and they grow in profusion in the Margaret River area. Stately eucalypts, gnarled banksias and ancient blackboys, their trunks blackened by centuries of bushfires, stand above ca ups, the harder blackboy country of Alkoomi (near Frankland), and the softer rolling hills of Mount Barker, where habitation seems to have somehow softened the remote savagery of many of the other subregions. Two of the earlier prophets of the Great Southern area were Maurice O Shea and Jack Mann, an unlikely pair in that not only did they not meet each other, but Maurice O Shea did not even visit the region his enthusiasm came from an armchair view of its climate. He is said to have ex pressed the opinion that if he had his time again, it was there that he would establish his vineyards. Jack Mann formed his favourable view of the Great Southern area as a result of regularly playing cricket in the region between the two World Wars. Almost as unlikely was the first serious consideration given to the region by a wine company. In the early years of this century, a large area of leasehold land was cleared at Pardelup, just to the west of Mount Barker. Regeneration problems w ith the scrub saw the land revert to the Crown, and the Government sought to interest Penfolds in the project. When Penfolds declined, the area became the Pardelup prison school. It was left to the distinguished Californian viticulturist Professor Harold Olmo, who was retained by the Western Australian Government in 1955 to report on the status of the industry, to recognise the potential of the area for the production of high-quality, light table wines. Even then it took another ten year s for the first vineyard sites to be selected. The selection was prompted by the Western Australian Department of Agriculture, which set up a joint venture with the Pearses at Forest Hill (a vineyard now owned by the Holmes Court family). This led to the progressive establishment of vineyards in the region: most were small, and some suffered from isolation (both from markets and technical expertise). Only one large vineyard was established, Frankland River Wines with 100 hectares of vine s, which was leased by Houghton in 1981 and ultimately purchased by it. Plantagenet, however, dominated proceedings, making wine not only for itself but for a number of other well-known labels, and only Goundrey ran an operation of any real size in competition with Plantagenet. In the second half of the 1980s the changes began apace. What turned out to be a ten-year saga for Goundrey Wines began with a public issue of units and shares raising $3.7 million a handsome sum but not handsome enough in the wake of the recession of the early 1990s. In early 1996 Goundrey Wines was acquired by Perth businessman Jack Bendat for a reported $10 million, and has since been expanded further by a large investment both in new vineyards and at the winery. Alkoomi has grown quietly but remorselessly, funded entirely by sheer hard work and retained earnings: no bankers for the Lange family. Plantagenet, too, has grown in every way, producing consistently superb wines. At the small end of the scale, John Wade and partner Geoff Birch have (after prolonged planning wrangles) established a state-of-the-art winery for Howard Park and for their numerous small winery contract clients in Scotsdale Road, Denmark. The potential of the region is vast, its sole physical limitation being water availability (or salinity), and to a lesser degree its remoteness from eastern States manufacturing and marketing resources. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation South West Aust ralia Zone 02'S, 117 52'E Albany 50'S, 117 10'E Kojonup 250 m Subregions Albany, Denbarker, Denmark, Frankland, Mount Barker and Porongurup. Climate Inevitably, this varies substantially as one moves north (and inland) from the strongly maritime-influenced climate of the coastal vineyards around Denmark and Albany. This is partly reflected in the length of the growing season: the maritime influence lengthens the season by reducing both diurnal and seasonal temperat ure fluctuations without significantly reducing the HDD summation, which has been variously recorded as 1320, 1430 and 1620 at Mount Barker. Spring frosts can occasionally be a problem, but the main difficulty has been the collection of sufficient non-saline surface water to permit adequate irrigation during the growing season. Site and aspect add yet further variables in this geographically varied region, and in a sense it is surprising that the wine style should be so consistent. Sta tistics Heat degree days: 1620 Sunshine hours per day: 7.9 Annual rainfall: 750 mm Growing season rainfall: 230 mm Mean January temperature: 20.4 Harvest: Early March end April Soil The soils are remarkably uniform throughout most of the region, altering only on the extreme southern coastal fringe. They almost all fall in the hard mottled yellow duplex soil subgroups of Dy3.61, 3.62, 3.81 and 3.82. The surface soils are typically brown or grey-brown loams some sandy, some more clayey in texture passing fairly abruptly into clay subsoils, which are relatively impermeable. This has the consequence of winter/spring waterlogging and subsequent lateral drainage into waterways, exacerbating the effect of summer drought and intensifying the need for irrigation. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 160 ha Riesling: 102 ha Sauvignon blanc: 40 ha Chenin blanc: 40 ha Other white: 25 ha Total white: 367 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 237 ha Shiraz: 98 ha ot noir: 67 ha Merlot: 43 ha Other red: 2 ha Total red: 447 ha Principal Wine Styles Riesling: Vies with Cabernet Sauvignon as the most important wine from the region, even though relatively speaking it is an unfashionable variety. Its importance derives directly from the quality of the wine, which ranks with the best of the Clare and Eden valleys of South Australia. Like the Riesling of those regions, it ages superbly, seldom reaching the peak of its development in less than ten years. While tending crisp and lean in its youth, it does have intense flavour, typically in the citrus spectrum (an underlay of herbs) and inevitably most is consumed within 12 months or so of vintage. Alkoomi, Castle Rock, Frankland Estate, Gilberts, Goundrey, Howard Park, Karrivale, Plantagenet and Tingle-Wood are among the many outstanding producers. Chardonnay: Elegant, tightly structured, grapefruit-accented Chardonnay which ages well is produced in ever-inc reasing quantities. Notwithstanding the shift in climate from south to north, the style is relatively consistent; perhaps that of the south is a little finer and softer, that of the north more powerful, but there is little in it. Goundrey, Howard Park, Karriview, Pattersons and Plantagenet usually show the way. Cabernet Sauvignon: Cabernet Sauvignon thrives across the length and breadth of the region, producing long-lived wines of deep colour, intense flavour and powerful structure . They are in every sense classic Cabernets, with an austerity to the flavour, and a briary toughness to the young wines which demands patience but which richly rewards it. Here Alkoomi, Goundrey, Howard Park and Plantagenet are benchmark producers. Shiraz: The renaissance in the fortunes of Shiraz has served to intensify the pressure on the limited, but exceptionally high-quality quantities of Shiraz produced in the region. It exhibits a compelling combination of liquorice, spice, pepper, black cherry and plum; happily, almost all makers avoid the temptation of smothering it in American oak, allowing the spectacular fruit quality free reign to express itself. Alkoomi, Chatsfield, Pattersons and Plantagenet do as well as any, and better than most. Pinot Noir: Until recently, regarded as the preserve of the southern area around Denmark and Albany, but some exciting wines have started to appear from Mount Barker a development predicted by the eminent researc h viticulturist Dr John Gladstones. Wignalls was the leading producer for years, but is now joined by others including Old Kent River, Karriview, Pattersons and Plantagenet. D WA_L1.picE South West AustraliaI A PembertonB Western Australia As with several new wine regions of Australia, there has been much discussion (and disagreement) over the name to be given to it under the Geographic Indications legislation. One camp wanted it to be called Pemberton , the other wanted it to be called The Warren Valley . Ultimately Pemberton was chosen, sensible given that common usage over the past decade or so has been Pemberton or, failing that, Manjimup. But naming diputes to one side, there has been considerable interest in this reg rpets of flowering kangaroo paws, desert peas and countless other flowers. The doctors-cum-winemakers who, for some strange reason dominated the early development of viticulture and who still have a strong presence, were unusually sensitive to the environment, and the wineries tend to merge into the countryside rather than stand superimposed on it. Stone or rammed-earth walls, and skilful use of local timber are commonplace, with subtle bush landscaping adding to the overall effect. the first Margaret River reds came onto the market in the eastern States in the mid-1970s they made a huge impression. There was a clarity and a delicacy to their red fruit flavours and an elegance in their structure which immediately set them apart. In retrospect it seems likely that part of this difference was due to the absence of naturally occurring malolactic fermentation in the bacterially sterile confines typical of new wineries in a new wine region. Almost overnight Margaret Ri ver became the most fashionable address in Australia, its future assured, its potential unlimited. But in the latter part of the 1980s it unexpectedly lost direction and momentum. Part of the problem was due to the proliferation of new trendy regions and wineries in South Australia, Victoria and New South Wales, which intensified competition for space on retailers shelves. Western Australian winemakers and those of the Margaret River in particular came to realise they were as far dist ant from Sydney and Melbourne as from Asia, and no closer than New Zealand to those markets. But the sheer quality of the region and its wines, not to mention the determination of its leading producers, meant that the pause was only temporary. Indeed, Margaret River began its surge forward while the rest of Australia was in deep recession, and hasn t looked back since. The 1997 acquisition of Devil s Lair by Southcorp and of a half share of Brookland Valley by BRL Hardy, coupled with a ve ritable explosion of syndicate and winery funded broadacre plantings ensure there won t be any looking back in the future either! Between 1996 and 1997 an additional 278 hectares of vineyards were planted, lifting the 1997 total to 1332 hectares. But by 1999 there will be well over 2000 hectares, perhaps closer to 3000 hectares of vineyards coming into production. It has a large array of restaurants, many operated by wineries, liberally scattered through the region and in the township of Margaret River. There are many places to stay, ranging from the luxury of Cave House through conventional motels and hotels to vineyard cottages to bed and breakfast accommodation. There is a vibrant local craft community, focusing on West Australian hardwoods and to a lesser degree on pottery. Then there are the surfing beaches, populated year round thanks to the balmy temperatures, even in winter. Finally, there are the winemakers, a feisty lot if ever there was one, and the wines distinctive as they are good. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation South West Australia Zone 57'S, 15 Subregions None. Climate The climate is strongly maritime-influenced, more so than any other major Australian region. It has the lowest mean annual range of only 7.6 C, and for good measure has the most marked Mediterranean climate in terms of rainfall, with only 200 mm of the annual 1160 mm falling between October and April. The low diur nal and seasonal temperature range means an unusually even accumulation of warmth; while spring frosts are rare and highly localised, lack of winter dormancy and salty spring winds can cause problems unique to this region. Overall the climate is similar (in terms of warmth) to that of Pomerol and St Emilion in a dry vintage; hence the quality of its Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and so forth. Statistics Heat degree days: 1690 Sunshine hours per day: 8.1 Annual rainfall: 1160 Growing s eason rainfall: 200 mm Mean January temperature: 20.4 Harvest: End February mid-April Soil The landscape constantly varies, given character by the abundance of small creeks and gentle valleys, as well as by the profusion of native trees, shrubs and flowers. In physical terms a degree of protection from sea wind is the most important factor. The principal soil type is that of the ridge which runs from Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin; it is predominantly gravelly or gritty sandy loam formed directly from the underlying granite and gneissic rock. The soils are highly permeable when moist, but quickly shed moisture from sloping sites, and overall water capacities are low, placing additional emphasis on the need for irrigation. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 173 ha Semillon: 164 ha Sauvignon blanc: 129 ha Riesling: 65 ha Verdelho: 50 ha Chenin blanc: 41 ha Other white: 3 ha Total white: 625 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 233 ha Shiraz: 75 ha Merlot: 45 Pinot Noir: 26 ha Other red: 50 ha Total red: 429 ha Principal Wine Styles Cabernet Sauvignon: The wine upon which Margaret River s reputation was founded, and in no small measure upon which it rests today. Virtually every winery produces a Cabernet, although Merlot is an increasingly common blend component. The style has evolved over the decades, with a cross-hatch of winemaker/viticulturist inputs giving rise to a number of distinctive and stylish interpretatio ns of Cabernet (and Merlot). The common threads are physiologically ripe grapes which provide a sweet core to all the wines, which are never leafy or herbal, and often slightly earthy/gravelly tannins which need to be controlled but which provide complexity, authority and structure. Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood and Vasse Felix have been making Cabernets for longer than most, and are household names around Australia. Chardonnay: Leeuwin Estate was one of the pion eers of Chardonnay in the region, and in my view is Australia s greatest example of the breed. But it is by no means the only producer of outstanding Chardonnay, which seems to acquire an extra dimension unique to the Margaret River. It is more concentrated, more complex, more viscous, more tangy, yet does not cloy nor become heavy. The voluptuous fruit lends itself to the full range of winemaking techniques, and the region s winemakers do not shrink from using them. Ashbrook, Cape Mentell e, Devil s Lair, Evans & Tate, Pierro and Voyager Estate join Leeuwin at the head, but it is hard to find a poor Chardonnay in the region. Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon: The permutations of these two varieties used either as single varietals, or as blends with one or other component dominant, or supplemented by Chenin Blanc to produce a regional specialty often called Classic Dry White seem endless. But in most vintages the region welds the two varieties together in a way which sno other area does: the Semillon (and even Chenin Blanc) acquires a pleasantly herbal/grassy cut which imperceptibly shades into Sauvignon Blanc. Intensity and elegance likewise coalesce in wines which are seldom less than distinguished. Amberley, Ashbrook, Brookland Valley, Cape Mentelle, Evans & Tate, Moss Wood, Voyager Estate and Willespie all do particularly well. Margaret.picE South West AustraliaI Perth HillsB Western Australia Viticulture has been carried on intermittently in the picturesque Perth Hills for over a century, but on a generally tiny scale. Thus while Despeissis was able to report in 1902 that grapes grown in the Mundaringa Chidlow subregion ripened two to three weeks later than the Swan Valley, the longest-established of the present-day wineries (Hainault) dates back to only 1980, and none of the ten wineries crush more than 50 tonnes, one (Scarp Valley) producing only 30 cases a year. But the area ion since the first vines were experimentally planted in 1977. At times it has been portrayed as the one true equivalent to Burgundy to be found in Australia, and expectations for grape and wine quality have been high. Those experimental plantings were followed by the first commercial vineyard in 1982, with steady expansion throughout the 1980s, and accelerated plantings in the boom days of the mid-1990s. It is a reasonable assumption that Petaluma s acquisition of Smithbrook in late 1997 will further accelerate the pace of development in the region. There are two reasonably distinct subregions (Manjimup and Pemberton) with appreciably different climates; there are also two markedly different soil types. It would be easy if the soil types were restricted one to each region, but in fact they overlap. In the outcome, the messages coming from Pemberton Warren are somewhat confused. The richer soils, allied with high natural rainfall, produce exceptional vine vigour and seem ingly uncontrollably high cropping levels. The result is wines which are either obviously dilute when young, or which age prematurely. Viticultural management is easier on the less fertile soils, and it is here that the good wines of the region (and they certainly exist) are to be found. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation South West Australia Zone 27'S, 116 01'E 170 m Subregions Manjimup and Pemberton. Climate The climate of Manjimup is similar t o that of Bordeaux; mean temperatures and sunshine hours are almost the same, although annual rainfall is significantly higher, temperature variability is a little greater and relative humidity a little less. Alternatively, it can be compared to the climate of Mount Barker, albeit with a greater west coast influence which moderates the diurnal temperature range without, however, entirely eliminating the risk of spring frost. Pemberton has a somewhat cooler climate, with slightly lower temp eratures, less sunshine hours, more rainfall (except in January and February) and greater relative humidity although temperature variability remains about the same. The high annual rainfall means that a number of vineyards do not use irrigation, but the pronounced winter spring dominance can lead to stress late in the growing season if subsoil moisture diminishes. Overall, Manjimup is thus seen as more suited to the Bordeaux varieties while at Pemberton the focus moves more towards the B urgundian varieties of chardonnay and pinot noir. Statistics Pemberton Heat degree days: 1394 Sunshine hours per day: 7.4 Annual rainfall: 1255 mm Growing season rainfall: 361 mm Mean January temperature: 20.2 Harvest: Early March mid-April Manjimup Heat degree days: 1422 Sunshine hours per day: 7.9 Annual rainfall: 1055 mm Growing season rainfall: 288 mm Mean January temperature: 20.4 Harvest: Early March mid-April Soil Eighty-five per cent of the Pemb erton region remains under native vegetation, with magnificent Marri forests in the northern half, moving to Karri in the south. It is bisected by the Donnelly, Warren, Shannon and Gardiner rivers, but overall the gradients are not steep, with most vineyards established on rolling hills descending from the Manjimup plateau. There are two major soil types. The first, and most suitable, are lateritic gravelly sands and gravelly loams overlying medium clay of moderate water-holding capacity. These moderately fertile soils are common in the Manjimup subregion and are found on many of the higher slopes around Pemberton. The second soil is the far more fertile Karri loams, formed directly from the gneissic country rock, and which together with the abundant winter/spring rainfall leads to vigorous growth and the potential for excessive yields (and flavour dilution). Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 150 ha Verdelho: 21 ha Sauvignon blanc: 24 ha Total white: 195 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 117 ha Pinot noir: 61 ha Merlot: 38 ha Cabernet franc: 19 ha Total red: 235 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Not only is this by far the most widely planted variety, but clearly the most successful across the entire region in terms of style and quality. Chardonnay is a forgiving and flexible variety, and does not object to being grown in what might be termed easy or soft conditions. At its best, it produces opulently flavoured and stru ctured wines, with an almost creamy texture and which respond well to the generous use of high-quality French oak. At the other extreme, the wine is pleasant but dilute, lacking the impact of the best Chardonnays from Mount Barker or the Margaret River. Salitage (particularly) and Smithbrook have done best, but with many pleasant wines from other producers. Pinot Noir: Here the jury is still out. An enormous amount of faith has been pinned on the variety, particularly in the case o f the vineyards around Pemberton, but the results to date have neither been convincing nor consistent when used to make table wine. (Substantial quantities of both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are used for sparkling wine, with good results in each case.) These are early days yet, and some good Pinot Noirs have been made, but work remains to be done (perhaps with clonal selection, perhaps site selection) before the initial optimism can be said to be justified. Picardy is the exciting new arriv al on the scene. Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc: Quite suddenly, and perhaps unexpectedly, these three varieties have started to produce some serious wines, led by a marvellous Merlot from Smithbrook and impressive Cabernet Merlots from Salitage and Chestnut Grove. Yield control still remains a key issue, but here at least the climate seems well suited, particularly to merlot. Petaluma, via its ownership of Smithbrook, has made no secret of the fact that it believes the r egion is best suited to the Bordeaux red varieties. Verdelho: The variety does well here, producing wines with attractive tropical fruit flavours and that rounded mouthfeel which is the hallmark of the variety. Sauvignon Blanc: Again, early days, but the wines made to date are pleasant rather than arresting, lacking the varietal punch which this grape can and should provide. D WA_L2.picE South West AustraliaI Swan DistrictB Western Australia Two waves of immigration by Yugoslavs, the first at the turn of the century (principally from Dalmatia) and the second after the Second World War gave the Swan Valley two claims to fame. The first is that, most surprisingly, for a time it had more wineries in operation than either New South Wales or Victoria; the second is that, more obviously, it joined the Barossa Valley (German) and the Riverland (Italian) as a significant ethnically driven wine producing region. It was not always so. is very different from the Swan Valley, and is only 22 kilometres from Perth, making it easily accessible to daytrippers. It is a pretty region, with constantly changing vistas. The exotic native plant vegetation grows in rich profusion: Western Australia was given far more than its fair share by nature, and this is shown to full advantage in the Perth Hills, with patches of introduced exotics from Europe and elsewhere adding an unexpected contrast near streams and in home gardens. he Region in Brief Location and Elevation Greater Perth Zone 59'S, 116 400 m Subregions None. Climate As one would expect, the climate varies significantly with altitude, but also with the orientation of the maze of valleys which criss-cross the Perth Hills. The tempering influences which reduce the heat summation and delay ripening for 10 21 days (compared to the Swan Valley) are first, the altitude; secondly, the free air drainage; and thirdly, exposure t o afternoon sea breezes. Warm evenings, however, mean continuous ripening, and frosts pose no threat at any time of year. The annual rainfall of 900 1200 mm (depending on altitude) is strongly winter spring dominant, and given adequate dam and thus irrigation sites, the climate poses no problems for the vigneron. Overall, John Gladstones likens it to that of the Douro Valley in Portugal, which is perhaps why it should be more suited to fuller-bodied than to lighter-bodied table wines. Statistics Heat degree days: 1550 Sunshine hours per day: NA Annual rainfall: 900 1200 mm Growing season rainfall: 220 250 mm Mean January temperature: 22.5 Harvest: Late February April Soil Rivulets and (often dry) creek beds, ridges, hills and valleys criss-cross the region in every direction, offering an almost unlimited choice of aspect and slope, but those cut off from the sea breeze influence tend to be warmer rather than cooler. The valley slopes have ironstone a nd gravel sandy loams and gravelly loams which overly clay, similar in type to many parts of Western Australia and which were once covered with marri. They are well-suited to viticulture, being of moderate fertility, producing moderate yields. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay Semillon Gewurztraminer Verdelho Cabernet sauvignon Shiraz Pinot noir Merlot Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: The ubiquitous chardonnay does not disappoint: the best white wines to have come from the Perth Hills have been made from this variety. One would expect the style to be generous, and it usually is, but some quite tight, minerally wines are also produced. Darlington Estate is the best credentialled producer, using barrel fermentation to good effect to support the relitively lean frame of the underlying fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot: Frequently blended, sometimes released as straightforward varietal wines, and produced by the majority of the wineries in t he region. Full-flavoured, with chocolatey/earthy/berry flavours, the wines are reliable and pleasant. Once agin Darlington Estate does particularly well, adding hints of leaf and olive to the mix. Pinot Noir: It perhaps says more for the enthusiasm, indeed absolute dedication, of some of the key players in the region than for the suitability of the climate that so much pinot noir is grown by so many of the vignerons of the region. For whether judged by the climatic statistics or b y the wines in the bottle, this is simply too warm a region to produce Pinot Noir having (conventional) varietal character. Peter Fimmel, founder and former owner of Hainault, was resolute in his belief that the area was suited to pinot noir. Shiraz: Sparingly planted, but Piesse Brook and Scarp Valley have done well with it. Mid-weight wines are the order of the day, with gentle cherry/earthy fruit flavours and I suspect with the ability to develop well in bottle for two years or so. D Perth.picE Greater PerthI Granite BeltB Queensland In 1965 the first wine grapes were planted in the Granite Belt: 1 hectare of shiraz. It was an appropriate choice because this variety outshone all others (with the possible exception of semillon) over the next 25 years. The Ricca family were the pioneers, but have since faded from the scene. However, it was not long before others followed suit. Toowoomba solicitor John Robinson and wife Heather established Robinsons Family Vineyards in 1969, while the following year third-generation farm Viticulture was started by English settlers, most notably Thomas Waters who dug the cellar at Olive Farm in 1830, thus giving this winery the distinction of being the oldest winemaking establishment in Australia to be in use today. Perhaps fittingly, it passed into the ownership of a Yugoslavian family in 1933, with present-day winemaker Ian Yurisich making some of the better Swan Valley wines of the present time. The main link with the past comes through the colonial surgeon Dr John Ferg uson who purchased part of a substantial land grant owned by three Indian Army Officers, the most senior of whom was Colonel Houghton. Even though Houghton never came to Australia, the property was named after him likewise the Houghton wines of today (Western Australia s largest wine company). The Swan Valley (or Swan District, as it is now officially known) has always been a friendly place in which to grow vines and make wine. The completely flat alluvial river plain provides soils whi ch are immensely deep and well drained (or are so in the prime vineyard locations) and the hot, dry summer means that grapes ripen easily and quickly. This was and is an ideal climate for table grapes (huge quantities were produced for export markets in bygone years) and for fortified wines. It was likewise suited to the production of bulk table wine which was sold to a large but uncritical local clientele, many of whom were of Yugoslavian origin, and they brought their own flagons, drums and sundry other containers to be filled up at their chosen winery. The export market for table grapes has shrunk, the fortified wine market likewise, and third-generation Yugoslavs have entirely forgotten their cultural heritage and abandoned their parents ways. Also the big wine companies of the eastern States have put cask wine on supermarket shelves for less than it costs local wineries to produce, let alone sell. And it must be said that the big company cask wine is far easier to li ve with the morning after. Inevitably, the ethnic base of the Swan Valley winemaking has declined steadily through the years, while the dominance of Houghton Wines has grown in leaps and bounds since Thomas Hardy acquired its parent (the English-based Emu Wine Company) in 1976. After years of uncertainty, Sandalford has been revived under new ownership, new management and most significantly, the appointment of Bill Crappsley (ex-Evans & Tate) as senior winemaker. But it is no accident tha t both Houghton and Sandalford draw the majority of their grapes from the Margaret River, Great Southern and Pemberton Warren, or that at the other end of the scale, the self-effacing but brilliant John Kosovich of Westfield has established a new vineyard at Pemberton. The Swan Valley will continue to be an important part of the Western Australian industry, of course. Houghton White Burgundy already renamed Houghton Supreme for the export market continues to be the largest selling whi te wine (in its semi-premium price category) in Australia (during the 1996 calendar year), and although Seaview Glass Mountain was fast closing the gap, one suspects Houghton s may prove the more enduring brand. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Greater Perth Zone 50'S, 116 Subregions Swan Valley (Guildford, Henley Brook, Middle Swan, Upper Swan and West Swan); Northern Perth (Bindoon, Gingin and Moondah Brook). Climate Whichever yardstick is ta ken, the Swan Valley proper has an unequivocally hot climate. It has the highest mean January temperature of any significant district. It has the lowest summer rainfall of any Australian region, the lowest relative humidity (47 per cent), and the most sunshine hours per day. Its heat summation (HDD) almost comes as an anticlimax at 2340. The Gingin/Moondah Brook area is somewhat cooler, and although still at the warm end of the climatic spectrum, has consistently demonstrated a surprising capacity to produce full-flavoured, full-bodied white whites, with Chenin Blanc, Verdelho and Chardonnay to the fore. Statistics Heat degree days: 2340 Sunshine hours per day: 9.7 Annual rainfall: 740 mm Growing season rainfall: 145 mm Mean January temperature: 24.3 Harvest: End January end March Soil The Swan Valley proper is a flat alluvial plain flanked by the Darling Range and permeated by the tributaries of the Swan River. The best soils fall in the Gn2.15 and 2.25 s ubgroups of the red massive earths. These have brown or yellow-brown loamy sand surface soils passing gradually through lighter coloured (and slightly more clayey) subsurface soils, thence into porous sandy clay loam subsoils. This structure allows deep penetration by the vine roots to tap the reserves of the heavy winter rainfall, allowing low-yielding vines to survive without irrigation and produce high-quality fruit. The other principal soil group is Dy5.81 (sandy mottled yellow duplex) which suffers from waterlogging at relatively shallow depths after the heavy winter rains, but then dries out rapidly, making irrigation absolutely essential. Principal Grape Varieties Chenin blanc: 47 ha Chardonnay: 29 ha Verdelho: 29 ha Semillon: 20 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 14 ha Sauvignon blanc: 6 ha Total white: 145 ha Grenache: 58 ha Shiraz: 33 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 14 ha Merlot: 4 ha Other red: 2 ha Total red: 111 ha Principal Wine Styles Chenin Bl anc: This variety dominates plantings in the Swan Valley, contributing roughly 25 per cent of the annual crush. Arguably, the Swan Valley is the one region in Australia in which this grape (and the wine it makes) rises above mediocrity. In the hot climate it produces a wine with a certain luscious richness, which responds well to bottle age, producing an almost voluptuous White Burgundy style. It also does particularly well in the Moondah Brook/Gingin subregions, producing wines with a n abundance of the fruit salad flavours which are the varietal signature of the grape. Needless to say, Houghton leads the way. Chardonnay: The plantings are still surprisingly small, but Westfield in particular has produced some very good, buttery/peachy wines from it, sometimes with an almost Burgundian tang which comes from a measure of barrel fermentation. Verdelho: A traditional variety which was appreciated well before the eastern States vogue of the 1980s. Almost all of the best wineries, led by Houghton, produce a varietal wine from this grape, and are usually content to allow the honeyed/honeysuckle flavour free reign without introducing new oak. Blended White Wines: The three principal white varieties coalesce to produce one of Australia s largest selling and eternally popular white wines, Houghton White Burgundy, known as Houghton Supreme in export markets, and likely headed in the same direction domestically. In many ways, a freakish wine which, despite its modest price and large volume, has the capacity to age magnificently in bottle for five to ten years, at its peak able to win gold medals and trophies against the cream of eastern States Chardonnays, Semillons and blends. Shiraz: Although it comes a distant second to grenache in terms of hectares, this is the most important red wine grape in what is essentially white wine country. It produces a warm, fleshy wine in the hands of most makers: Evans & Tate (under i ts Gnangara label) has managed to invest it with a degree of elegance and style which other makers do not seem to be able to emulate. Cabernet Sauvignon: Westfield, Olive Farm, Lamont and Moondah Brook (to a lesser degree) produce respectable Cabernet Sauvignon, usually in a soft, dark chocolate-tinged mould, although Lamont sometimes contributes a note of astringency, particularly in its version which does not see oak. But without question the best manifestation and variety is in the form of Houghton s vivid (in colour, aroma and flavour) Cabernet Ros . Year in, year out this is Australia s finest example of this wine style. Why we do not drink tens of thousands of cases of it every summer I will never know. Swan.picE Greater PerthI Alice SpringsB Northern TerritoryC4Information is not available for this region NT.picE Mount GambierB South Australia The first vines were established by Sandy and Helen Haig in 1982 near Mount Gambier s famous tourist attraction, the vivid Blue Lake, which welcomes anyone flying to the region. In 1988, Winters Vineyard was planted. There are now five growers in the district, all just to the south and east of the township of Mount Gambier, and two are producing wine. The vineyards are situated on gently undulating country at low altitudes, although the landscape is punctuated by the isolated volcanic pea er Angelo Puglisi commenced what was initially called Sundown Valley Vineyards but is now called Ballandean Estate. These two wineries remain the largest in the district, and both enjoy the distinction of having their products marketed nationally (if on a restricted scale). The Granite Belt is an interesting region. It owed much to Sydney-based wine consultant John Stanford, who became involved in the early 70s, and was something of a Messiah for its potential. Angelo Puglisi, too, gaine d recognition for the district when he was awarded a Churchill Fellowship in 1977 to study European winemaking techniques (an honour also accorded to his then winemaker Rodney Hooper a decade later). But its present and future prosperity hinge to a large degree on the parochial Queensland market and on the steady flow of tourists passing up and down the New England Highway. For although many of the local vignerons would have it otherwise, the Granite Belt is no more a natural grape grow ing region than is the Hunter Valley. The principal drawbacks are spring frosts and vintage-time rainfall. True, these do not occur every year, and appropriate site selection can significantly reduce the risk of frost. But then there is the vexed question of the climate, and how one really assesses a high-altitude region with a continental climate. Finally, there are the variable soils, some far too sandy and granitic, others much better suited to viticulture a distinction ignored by so me of the plantings made in the 1970s. All of these factors make viticulture and winemaking that little bit more difficult. While I have tasted many enjoyable and a few outstanding wines over the years, a proverbial bucket of cold water was thrown over the region during the 1989 Royal Brisbane Wine Show. Prior to that year, there were special classes for Queensland wines, but in 1989 the wines were simply entered in the general classes (albeit with specially reduced volume requirements fo r entry) to compete against those from the rest of Australia. Not one wine from the Granite Belt (or anywhere else in Queensland) won so much as a bronze medal. It was not until 1995 that Bald Mountain won the first capital city wine show gold medal fittingly at the Royal Brisbane Show with its 1994 Shiraz Cabernet. As at 1998 it remains Queensland s sole success at gold medal level, although (led by Bald Mountain) Queensland wineries have won many bronze and silver medals at capital c ity shows, and gold medals at regional shows. So clearly the region has the task in front of it. Wine tourism is, and will continue to be, of critical importance to the majority of the Granite Belt wineries, most of which lack the critical mass to service retail channels. The Granite Belt has some talented and enthusiastic viticulturists and winemakers, and its physical beauty is a major asset in marketing terms. As a wine region it has the capacity to achieve great things, but it must re cognise and respond to the formidable challenge of other comparable Australian wine regions. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Queensland Zone 40'S, 151 56'E Stanthorpe 810 m Subregions Ballandean and Stanthorpe. Climate The climate of a region such as the Granite Belt is not easy to pigeonhole. Because vintage is relatively late, and because it is fashionable to say so (one producer even announces the fact in large letters on its wine label), th ere are those who categorise this as a cool-climate region. The hard facts are an HDD summation of 1703 (others report it as 1814 and 1868!) and an MJT of 20.5 C. This is warmer than Rutherglen. The rainfall is strongly summer dominant: 550 mm, or 70 per cent of the annual total, falls between October and April. Statistics Heat degree days: 1703 Sunshine hours per day: 8.1 Annual rainfall: 800 mm Growing season rainfall: 500 mm Mean January temperature: 20.5 Harvest: End February mid-April Soil The Granite Belt is the northernmost extension of the New England Tableland and is a massive granite intrusion approximately 200 million years old. The hardness of the rock has guaranteed that this landscape stands out above the surrounding country (600 to 1000 metres). The most spectacular scenery is in the southern end of the Granite Belt where streams have dissected the granite to produce dramatic boulder-strewn landscapes. The two principal soil types are diff erent from those encountered in most Australian wine regions. One is a highly permeable, speckled (from granite) sandy, grey-black soil, the other a light brownish-grey soil, also speckled; the subsoils are a bleached sand passing into clay at depth. Their drainage is good, but increases the need for irrigation. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 22 ha Riesling: 7 ha Semillon: 6 ha Sauvignon blanc: 5 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 4 ha Chenin blanc: 4 ha Other white: 6 ha Total whit e: 54 ha Shiraz: 29 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 17 ha Merlot: 11 ha Pinot noir: 5 ha Other red: 1 ha Total red: 63 ha Principal Wine Styles Shiraz: This is the one consistently distinctive wine style of the region: dark in colour; strong in body, flavour and tannins; and above all else, redolent of spice when young, but developing soft, sweet velvety fruit with time in bottle, reminiscent of Shiraz of the Hunter Valley. Bald Mountain, Ballandean, Mountview, Robinsons Family and Stone Ridge are leaders. Cabernet Sauvignon: Like Shiraz, the wine is full, dark and rich in flavour at times perhaps rather too much so, but arguably too much is better than too little. Cassis/red berry/sweet fruit flavours predominate, attesting to the very warm climate, and the often warm vanillin oak. Increasing amounts of Merlot are adding interest, with Violet Cane producing a notable varietal wine from it. Semillon: Echoes of the Hunter Valley also appear in t he Semillons of the region, wines which grow gracefully in bottle for five years or more. Early in its life, Semillon can exhibit striking tropical fruit characters (possibly botrytis-influenced) but with age, classic honeyed/toasty characters emerge. Granite.picE TumbarumbaB Tumbarumba is one of the most remote wine regions in Australia unless you are a fly fisherman (I am) or a skier (I was once). I have a special affection for this alpine high country, so perfectly captured on screen in the film, The Man from Snowy River ; the Tumbarumba region vineyards may be a little lower (ranging as they do from 300 to 800 metres) but are unequivocally part of the Snowy Mountains. The first vines were established by Ian Cowell at Tumbarumba and by Frank Minutello at ks of Mount Gambier and Mount Schank. The character of the region is similar to that of Coonawarra, albeit cooler, reflecting its more southerly location. It remains to be seen whether this operates to limit future vineyard expansion. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Limestone Coast Zone 50'S, 140 46'E Subregions None. Climate Given the absence of any significant mountain ranges, the climate throughout the Limestone Coast Zone is broad ly similar. But due to its more southerly location, and its greater proximity to the coast, the climate of Mount Gambier is cooler than that of the other Limestone Coast regions, with harvest up to two weeks later for given varieties. It is classified as mediterranean-maritime, with a winter spring dominant rainfall, and generally moderate temperatures during the growing season. Two to three periods of very hot weather associated with northerly winds blowing from Central Australia can be e xpected between January and March, but overall sea breezes dominate, cooling the afternoons and evenings. The maritime influence reduces, but does not entirely eliminate, the risk of spring frosts: late season rainfall is the other occasional threat. Statistics Heat degree days: 1420 Sunshine hours per day: 7.7 Annual rainfall: 712 mm Growing season rainfall: 368 mm Mean January temperature: 19.5 Harvest: End March early April Soil The soils, which delineate the region, a re volcanic in origin and vary from relatively rich and heavy near the centre of the region, to a lighter, more sandy texture on the extremities, but in all cases overlies free-draining limestone. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay Cabernet sauvignon Cabernet franc Pinot noir Gamay Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: Chardonnay is produced both for sparkling and table wine, and not surprisingly is particularly well suited to the former. In table wine it has citr us and melon flavours and is of medium body and intensity. Some late-harvest Chardonnay is also produced. Cabernet Sauvignon: Typically of medium body with intense blackcurrant varietal character attesting to the cool climate; when Cabernet Franc is added, these characters become even more pronounced. Pinot Noir: As with Chardonnay, used both to make a light to medium-bodied table wine and in the production of sparkling wine. Limestone CoastI ShoalhavenB Wineries stretch along the south coast of New South Wales from Nowra and the Shoalhaven River at the northern end to Bega at the southern end. Most have been established since the early 1970s, and all rely heavily on cellar-door sales to the tourist trade. As the regional profile indicates, the principal threat lies with unpredictable but sometimes substantial summer rainfall, a problem which diminishes as you move south. It is a situation with which Hunter Valley and north coast wineries Tooma in the Maragle Valley, 18 kilometres southeast of Tumbarumba, in 1982 and 1983. The first harvest from Ian Cowell s vineyard was sold to Rosemount Estate for sparkling wine, and to this day the majority of the pinot noir and chardonnnay grown in the region are put to the same (sparkling wine) use. What is more, these two varieties account for 75 per cent of the total plantings, a double testament to the cool climate. Between 1983 and 1992 the pace of development was slow. As at the end of that period, there were eight vineyards established with 78 hectares in total. By 1997 there were over 25 vineyards with a total of 309 hectares, thanks to a massive planting programme in 1994, and continuing plantings thereafter. Southcorp has become the major player, purchasing Ian Cowell s vineyard in 1994 and having entered into long-term contracts with a number of the larger vineyards, including those of Frank Minutello. However, BRL Hardy has also become an active purchaser, contracting two growers by 1997. The ability of the region to produce table wine (as opposed to sparkling wine) is dependent on two things: seasonal conditions and site altitude. The margin for error is low, the need for first class viticultural management high. But when all goes right, the region can produce excellent table wine, even if its main business will be firmly linked to the production of high-quality sparkling wine. The energy and vision of Frank Minutello and the contract-wi nemaking skills of Charles Sturt University have been the catalysts for the development of both Tumbarumba Wine Cellars and Minutello s Tumbarumba Wine Estates. By the end of the decade over 3000 tonnes of grapes will be grown each year, and the prospects are there for a growing number of individual vineyard wines to be marketed through Tumbarumba Wine Cellars. The release by Hungerford Hill Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc with Tumbarumba region proudly displayed on the label must also help The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Southern New South Wales Zone 46'S, 148 800 m Subregions None. Climate With a mean January temperature of 19.3 C, Tumbarumba s climate is cool, but no more so (on this measure) than that of the Yarra Valley, and is decidedly warmer than that of Macedon or Drumborg (in southwestern Victoria). But there are also a number of other mutually counterbalancing factors: high sunshine hours with brilliant light , cold summer nights, and a late start to the growing season. Rainfall is generous, averaging 985 mm, peaking between June and October, but with between 50 and 60 mm per month through the full growing season, helping to alleviate stress. Frost is the chief viticultural threat, and dictates careful site selection and management. Night-time temperature inversion can play tricks the propensity of cold air to sink and warm air to rise but elevation is significant in determining varietal ch oice. The early autumn season break can also pose problems: in 1989 the two wettest months of the entire year were March and April. Statistics Harvest: Early March for sparkling wine through to early May for the latest ripening varieties, such as cabernet sauvignon. Soil These are typical high mountain soils, derived from decomposed granite and basalt, with a typically gritty/grainy texture. The choice of viticultural site is chiefly determined by aspect (north- and northea st-facing preferred, south-facing nigh on impossible) and slope (sufficiently steep to promote good air drainage at night and thus minimise the risk of frost). Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay: 154 ha Pinot noir: 87 ha Pinot meuniere: 11.5 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 25 ha Sauvignon blanc : 14 ha Merlot: 14 ha Shiraz: 1 ha Other: 1 ha Total: 307.5 ha Principal Wine Styles Sparking Wine: The essence of champagne (French, that is) lies in the blending of 50 or m ore different base wine components drawn from areas scattered across the length and breadth of the region. The best Australian sparkling wines use the same approach, employing the classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meuniere but also utilising multiple regional sources. Suggestions made from time to time that Seppelt s flagship sparkling wine Salinger is made entirely or principally from Tumbarumba region grapes are incorrect, but there is no doubt that in most years an impor tant part of it comes from here. Tumbarumba Wine Estates and Tumbarumba Cellars both offer locally-sourced sparkling wines. Sauvignon Blanc: Hungerford Hill s Tumbarumba Sauvignon Blanc has done more than any other wine to bring the region into public focus. It is the only regionally identified wine to have made its appearance regularly on retail shelves since its first vintage in 1995. A bold style, it shows abundant varietal character with rich gooseberry flavours neatly cut by u nderlying herbal notes that prevent the wine from cloying. Chardonnay: Once again, Hungerford Hill is the flagbearer, releasing a graceful, elegant Chardonnay from the 96 Vintage, showing crisp melon, citrus and fig fruit in classic cool-climate style. Pinot Noir: In 1994 Seppelt produced a Pinot Noir made from a blend of Tumbarumba and Drumborg grapes that deservedly won the Pinot Noir Trophy at the National Wine Show, and I have tasted several (unreleased) Pinot Noirs maM de between then and 1997 solely from Tumbarumba pinot noir. There is no doubt it has the capacity to produce very stylish Pinot Noir with clear varietal character, and none of the hot, boiled fruit characters of Pinot from the Alpine Valleys in Victoria. Southern NSWI Other Wineries of NSWB The process of formally mapping Australia s wine regions under the Geographic Indications framework continues at a frustratingly slow pace. But even when all the nascent regions of New South Wales have been formally defined and declared, there will remain a large scattering of wineries across the State which won t fall into any one of those regions. By their very nature, they live a shadowy and isolated existence, with their wines being sold through cellar door to tourists and to local re are thoroughly familiar, and fortunately it is far from insuperable. Nonetheless, it seems almost certain that vineyard holdings and winery size will remain small, and that the major vineyard developments of the future will continue to take place on the interior (or western) side of the Great Dividing Range. What is more, it is notable that the two most successful wineries Cambewarra Estate and Shoalhaven Estate, both in the Shoalhaven River region rely on contract making by expe rienced wineries in the Hunter Valley. Making small quantities of wine in isolated regions has never been easy unless the winemaker has both experience and technical qualifications. Yet here, more than any other region, the key to success rests with the tourist trade. It is not that the central and southern coast of New South Wales is an especially desirable or suitable place in which to grow grapes quite simply, it is not but it is a desirable place in which to market wine. It is ge nerally accepted that the overall quality of wine made by the small winery of today is significantly better than that of 20 years ago. What is not so clear is just how discerning the average tourist is about wine style and quality. Good may be good enough for these wineries, but there is no question that Cambewarra Estate and Coolangatta Estate have lifted the height of the bar for the others in the region to jump over. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation South Coast Zone 40'S, 149 50'E Bega Subregions None. Climate Growing season temperatures are especially moderate, with extremely high summer temperatures uncommon due to the strong maritime influence of the Pacific Ocean. High humidity also diminishes stress on the vines and aids growth, but together with heavy summer rainfall significantly increases the risk of mildew (both downy and powdery) and of botrytis. Sunshine hours are generous (particularly in the south) and frost should seldom if ever pose a problem. Nonetheless, selection of well-exposed, well-drained and ventilated north-facing slopes is important if the best results are to be obtained. The principal challenge to viticulture stems from the above-average variability in both the annual and growing season rainfall. It is in response to summer rainfall that Chambourcin has been so widely planted. Statistics Heat degree days: 1900 Sunshine hours per day: 7.6 Annual rainfall: 871 mm ing season rainfall: 324 mm Mean January temperature: 22.1 Harvest: Mid-February mid-March Soil The soil varies in depth and consistency from the alluvial valleys to the hillsides, but most are red and brown earths which are well suited to viticulture and which promote good yields. Principal Grape Varieties Chardonnay Semillon Shiraz Chambourcin Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: The ubiquitous and ever-flexible chardonnay is the most important grape, plan ted up and down the length of the coast. It produces a pleasant, mid-weight wine with gently peachy fruit flavours and a soft finish. Contract-winemaking by Tyrrell s for Coolangatta Estate (a confusing name which sounds as if it should come from the north coast near Queensland) shows the variety to best advantage: clean, easy in the mouth, and not impaired by excessive or inferior oak and/or oak chips. The potential for better vintages was underlined by the gold medal won by the 1991 Cool angatta Estate Chardonnay at the 1997 Caberra National Wine Show, competing against the best Chardonnays from all over the country. Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon: Paired together because they are in fact often blended, and also because either as single varietal wines or as blends they produce soft, faintly earthy wines without especially distinctive varietal character. With appropriate winery techniques, these are fresh, well balanced, light- to medium-bodied wines best consumed wh ile young. But here, too, the district can surprise: Cambewarra Estate won the only gold medal in the small producer red wine classes at the 1998 Royal Sydney Wine Show with its 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon. Chambourcin: This French hybrid is planted for precisely the same reasons as it is in the Hastings River far to the north; it is highly resistant to mildew and rot, and performs well in even the wettest summers. The vibrant colour and fresh plum fruit aroma and flavour of the wine a Ore best enjoyed while it is young; sometimes a touch of new oak is introduced in an endeavour to fill in the obvious hole in the mid- to back palate structure, but I incline to the view that the cure is worse than the illness. Cambewarra Estate has been particularly successful with the variety, but Coolangatta Estate also does well. South Coast ZoneI Other Wineries of WAB Western Australia If you were to draw a line running in a gentle arc southeast from Perth and terminating 50 kilometres or so east of Albany or alternatively adopt the Great Southern Highway as it tracks south from the town of York and take all of the land falling to the west of the line so drawn, you will find all of the existing wine regions of Western Australia (other, of course, than the Swan District). The newest of those regions is the Blackwood Valley, but it still leaves considerable gaps in th sidents (occasionally to local restaurants and shops). Seldom do the wines find their way into capital cities or onto major retailers shelves. In the first edition of my Atlas I opened the corresponding information thus: There is a little discussed (or understood) phenomenon which I call the isolation factor. It affects grape growing, winemaking and wine marketing more or less equally. In its most extreme form it engenders a kind of autism: There is no one else the vigneron can talk to as to gauge whether his vines are growing well or badly; no one to help solve problems in the vineyard or winery, or to provide points of comparison to even identify the existence of those problems. In the first place; no helping hand nor replacement piece of equipment to be borrowed in any emergency when his breaks down; and only the occasional wine enthusiast coming to the cellar door to discuss and buy the wine. The isolation factor does not mean one cannot succeed; people can and do, but it certainly significantly increases the odds against success, and in many instances limits the degree of success actually achieved. And to be perfectly honest, it is difficult to find out how well (or not) the wineries are coping with these difficulties. It can be likewise difficult to discern whether they are true winemakers at all, or whether they are in truth tourist shopfronts buying bulk or cleanskin wine from a winery 1000 kilometres away and simply putting a label on it. Some start out with good intentions, but find it all too difficult and then take the easy route (of buying wine from others). Some linger on, making it difficult to even ascertain whether they are still in business. Most of these wineries are heavily dependent on tourist trade, although a handful in Sydney s western suburbs have an ethnic (primarily Italian) client base as well as tourism to rely on. Some are the by-product of history (notably those adjacent to Sydney), and others are the res ult of quixotic life-style decisions. There is little point in discussing climate, soil or even wine style for this disparate spread of wineries. The fact is that it is perfectly feasible to grow grapes almost anywhere east of the Newell Highway, which runs from Goondiwindi at the Queensland border south to Deniliquin near the Victorian border. The key factors will be elevation (via the Great Dividing Range), and whether the vineyard is on the western side of the Range with a continental climate and the risk of spring frosts, or on the eastern side with a maritime climate and the probability of high humidity and summer rainfall. How far north or how far south is of much less importance. The one area which has prospects of developing into full-blown regional status (with Geographic Indication) is the western side of the Great Dividing Range extending north from Tamworth to Tenterfield. Gilgai Winery at Inverell is the ancient mariner, for much of the past 30 years on its o Huwn, but now joined by a number of vineyards near Tenterfield, including Richfield Vineyard and Reedy Creek Vineyard. Other Wineries of SAB South Australia When you look at a map of the whole of Australia, it strikes you how close to the coastline the vast majority of intensive agriculture and viticulture operations are carried out. Only the Murray River, with its lifeblood of water, carries South Australian viticulture inland to any significant degree. So it is that the majority of the wineries without regional homes are clustered around the coastline adjacent (relatively speaking) to Adelaide in the Fleurieu Zone. They thus share a strongly e mosaic. Given that the coastal sections are already covered by well-recognised regions, the gaps occur in the central portion of this southeastern corner. Here the principal limitations will be careful site selection designed to reduce the incidence of spring frost, and water availability for summer irrigation. These limitations to one side, there is no reason why viticulture should not one day extend right across this corner of the state although the closer to the coast, the less the challenges become. Late-ripening varieties such as riesling and cabernet sauvignon are the logical choices; they have already proved how much they enjoy the climate of the Great Southern region, and their late bud-burst helps alleviate the spring frost problem. Wineries are already scattered across this corner, with Dalyup River away to the east. They do not (yet) represent a concerted or conscious push to extend the viticultural map, but rather represent individual decisions, usually in volving either lifestyle or diversification opportunities. The oldest regions were populated first because they offer the most advantageous conditions, but it does not follow that the latter-day pioneers in other parts are doomed to failure. And one thing is certain: urbanisation or alternative land use pressures will never pose a threat in this far-flung corner of the continent. The degree to which these wineries succeed will depend on the success they have in marketing their wines. The smaller the production, the more likely it is that they will be able to sell it to local residents and whatever tourists come their way. To expand production, as in the case of Hotham Valley, and seek national markets needs a special story. James Pennington of Hotham Valley has achieved just this with a well-publicised (and patented) technique of using sandalwood in place of oak for vat and barrel making. For others it may not be so easy. Waiheke IslandB New Zealand (North Island) Few wine regions in the world have attracted so much attention with so few hectares of vines planted: 68.5 as at November 1997, and with little or no scope for broad acre plantings in the future. Certainly, the patchwork quilt will continue to develop, but vineyards will have to do battle with what is essentially suburban land use (and prices). The parallels with Victoria s Mornington Peninsula abound. The peninsula is Melbourne s chief vacation and summer playground for wealthy professio maritime and generally cool climate far cooler, indeed, than the casual observer might guess. Predominantly on-shore wines result in high relative humidity, reducing summer stress and optimising growth. The risk of spring frost, too, is negligible, reflecting the generally small fluctuation in diurnal temperatures through the growing season. Dr John Gladstones has written of the Fleurieu Peninsula thus: I believe this to be a region with exciting potential for viticulture. The tempera ture and sunshine data point to a wide range of table wine styles, from full-bodied Bordeaux and Rh ne styles at low altitudes to classical cool climate styles from about 200 metres up. (Viticulture and Environment, p. 111) He also comments favourably on the southern tip of the Eyre Peninsula at Port Lincoln, pointing in particular to the excellent terra rossa over limestone soils, similar to those of Coonawarra and Padthaway. In between these two peninsulas is the York Peninsula: here, too, the southern tip seems well suited to the production of medium- to full-bodied table wines from the Bordeaux varieties (semillon, sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot) in particular. Kangaroo Island is the third-largest island off Australia s coast, and in addition to its stunning flora and fauna, unpolluted beaches and coastal scenery is rapidly gaining a reputation for high-quality food products. Vineyards are now making their contribution. Approximately 30 hectare is of vines have been planted by ten owners, with more in the pipeline; the Florance Vineyard at Cygnet River was the first to be established, planted in the mid-1980s. The importance of viticulture seems likely to increase in the years ahead, and cellar doors will open to take advantage of the swelling number of tourists coming to this most beautiful island. Other Wineries of QldB Queensland With the exception of Romaville, the expansion of the viticultural map of Queensland has been restricted to the areas adjacent to the Great Dividing Range or the coastline. The motives of most of those eho established vineyards in the 1990s have either been lifestyle considerations or have had to do with opportunities for diversification. In all instances the vineyards have been initiatives taken by people who live in or near the locality in question. The mere fact that the expansion has nals and businesspeople; Waiheke Island is rapidly becoming the same for Auckland, a mere 45 minutes away by ferry. It was not always thus. After the original nineteenth-century influx of graziers, timber fellers and the like, Waiheke Island went into the doldrums. Even by the New Zealand standards of the day, the housing was basic, services minimal. To this day, with a permanent population of 8000 9000 swelling to 30 000 on summer weekends, Waiheke Island has no sewerage, and late in 199 7 was still looking forward to the imminent opening of its first supermarket. Much of the post-Second World War influx of inhabitants was of retirees and hippies. For a long time this acted to deter broader-based settlement, and in particular the wealthy families which have now adopted it as a favourite weekend and holiday destination. Part of the lure for holiday makers and vignerons alike has been the climate: for while it does certainly rain on the island, most of the 1000 mm falls in winter (August is the wettest month), and summer temperatures are high, with maxima ranging between 26 C and 32 It was this climate which attracted Stephen White of Stonyridge, who had worked at wineries in California, Tuscany and Bordeaux (the Sichel-owned chateau of Palmer and d Angludet) and who right from the outset wished to produce a Bordeaux-style red wine. Having found a site with a north-facing slope (absolutely essential in Stephen White s view), he planted it using a full-on Bordeaux-style trellis: only half a metre high, and with 4500 vines to the hectare. I have seen many New World attempts to emulate the Bordeaux method of growing grapes, none more convincing than that of Stephen White at Stonyridge. The same perceptions had encouraged the first vignerons, Kim and Jeanette Goldwater, to establish Goldwater Estate in 1978. As a result of progressive acquisitions over the years, and some outstanding winemaking, Goldwater Estate is now the second largest vin eyard on the island (and has the greatest production, assisted by some Marlborough-grown wines). There are 23 vineyards on the island, but only six makers had produced wine for sale prior to the end of 1997. By the turn of the century, there will be 20 or more, but none will produce more than 5000 6000 cases, most far less. For not only are property sizes small and land costs high, but even by the volcanic standards of New Zealand, the topography is decidedly up and down , with steeply folding hills and narrow valleys, making site selection very important. It hardly needs to be said this provides some beautiful vistas, notably from Peninsula Estate, Goldwater Estate and some of the newer plantings. Likewise, cellar-door sales will remain the major mode of sale with relatively little of the generally high-priced wines finding their way onto retail shelves or into the export market. But all this is not smoke and mirrors. Waiheke Island has already produced some of New Zea s most convincing Bordeaux-style reds, and (not surprisingly) very good Chardonnay. There is much conjecture on the sustainability of present price levels, but Obsidian has signalled an intention to offer its wine at NZ$30 NZ$40 per bottle, which will act to temper unreasonable expectations, particularly once its volume of production increases. If Waiheke Island is to capitalise on the tourist market, and not compromise itself by relying on wine made elsewhere it needs to price some of its wines within the grasp of ordinary people. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation 47'S, 175 150 m Climate The key to Waiheke Island s success with red wines is its low rainfall, giving rise to the gibe from other regions that it never rains on Waiheke Island . It does, of course, but the summer/autumn rainfall is typically much lower than it is around Auckland. Summer rainfall comes down from the north, and as it comes down the Hauraki Gulf it splits , part going west over Auckland, and the remainder east over the Coromandel Peninsula. Thus it is that most of the 100 mm rainfall occurs in winter (August is the wettest month) and early spring. On the other hand, summer temperatures are ideal, with maxima ranging between 26 C and 32 C, and frost is simply not a threat. Statistics Harvest: Early mid-March for chardonnay; mid-March mid-April for the Cabernet-based reds. Soil The red brown, rocky soils are of recent origin, and vary considerably within short distances up and down slopes. Overall, they do not promote excessive vigour, with wind acting as a break on many sites. However, aspect is all-important: the requirement of north-facing slopes is near absolute, unless one can find natural amphitheatres of the kind occupied by Obsidian, which runs from east to northwest (but not south). Principal Grape Varieties Cabernet sauvignon: 31.5 ha Merlot: 17.6 ha Chardonnay: 8.3 ha Cabernet franc: 4.7 ha albec: 1.7 ha Shiraz: 1.5 ha Pinot noir: 1.0 ha Semillon: 0.6 ha Pinot gris: 0.6 ha Sauvignon blanc: 0.6 ha Petit verdot: 0.3 ha Viognier: 0.1 ha Total: 68.5 ha Principal Wine Styles Cabernet Sauvignon and Blends: Kim Crawford, one of New Zealand s best credentialled winemakers, pulls no punches when he says, My belief is that due to a number of factors, Waiheke Island is the only region in New Zealand that will consistently fully ripen Cabernet Sauvignon. Stephen White of Stonyridge has already provided compelling evidence to support that view, triumphing over rare adverse conditions in 1995 and scaling the heights in other vintages of the 1990s. Wines such as 96 Stonyridge Larose show layer upon layer of mulberry, plum, blackcurrant, dark chocolate, cedar and vanilla interwoven with and supported by ripe tannins the last a rare commodity in New Zealand s Cabernet-dominant red wines. The leading producers are Stonyridge, Goldwater Estate, Penins ula Estate, Fenton Vineyard and Waiheke Vineyards Te Motu, with Obsidian waiting in the wings. It is hardly surprising that cabernet sauvignon should account for half the total plantings and the Bordeaux varieties for 80 per cent of those plantings. Merlot: Goldwater Estate s Esslin Merlot does no more than prove what commonsense tells you: that if Waiheke Island can produce perfectly ripened cabernet sauvignon, it can easily do the same with the earlier-ripening merlot. Spicy, flo ral and fragrant red cherry and berry fruit flavours with silky tannins. Most producers will, however, use their Merlot in a Cabernet blend, and single varietal examples will remain rare. Shiraz: With only 1.5 hectares planted it is hard to suggest this will become an important part of the vineyard mix, but the 96 Stonyridge Que Sera Syrah had great structure and weight to its mix of red berry, vanilla and cedar flavours and almost no pepper spice or green leaf characters. hardonnay: Somewhat surprisingly, perhaps, Goldwater Estate has planted its most recent land acquisition (of 5 hectares) predominantly to chardonnay. Surprisingly, not because of any shortcoming in the island s chardonnay, but simply because of its unique capacity to produce great red wines. The inspiration no doubt comes from Delamore Vineyard, which sold its chardonnay to Goldwater Estate until 1996. For the time being, these two producers have the field to themselves. RiverinaB The birth of the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Scheme Area between 1906 and 1912 stands as a lasting testament to the skills and the vision of a group of dedicated Australians, all inspired by the imagination of Sir Samuel McCaughey. Its subsequent development as a major wine producing area is primarily due to the remarkable McWilliam family, even if two successive waves of Italian immigrants (after the First and Second World Wars) built on the opportunities created by the McWilliams. Until the been so slow in coming attests to the unusual climatic conditions which prevail. Cold, not warmth, is the ultimate limiting factor for viticulture. Vines will grow in tropical areas; in parts of South East Asia they grow so fast they produce two crops each year (of table grapes) but have a relatively short life, literally dying of exhaustion. The areas chosen in Queensland are, of course, far cooler, relying on altitude or the remnants of sea breezes to provide relief. But altitude bring s spring frosts as an early season hazard, and summer rainfall and humidity is an ideal breeding ground for mildew and botrytis. So it is no easy road. However, the use of a skilled consulting winemaker such as Bruce Humphery-Smith, who moves at a hectic pace backwards and forwards between his clients wineries during vintage, will help considerably, and will gradually create a permanent pool of expertise. Just how far these wineries will be content to battle the odds, and how much they w ill turn to wine produced in southern Australia in far easier climates, remains to be seen. The early signs are of some reliance on wine from elsewhere, but it is true many of the estate vineyards are still to come into bearing. The tourist dollar will be the relevant currency, and it may well be that in this part of Australia the tourists will not be especially knowledgeable about wine. Northland and MatakanaB New Zealand (North Island) New Zealand s first vines were planted in Northland by Samuel Marsden and its first wine was made there by James Busby (both of whom came from Australia), but viticulture has never taken serious hold on this sprawling region which extends to 260 kilometres north of Auckland. It is rich pastoral country, once covered by immense Kauri forests which provided both timber and gum for the tough settlers from Dalmatia. A number of these became winemakers as a part-time occupation, producing wine second half of the 1950s production in the area was almost entirely of fortified wine. Just as John James McWilliam had led the way in 1912, so Glen McWilliam then pioneered the move to table wine. Not only was he responsible for the trial of premium varieties previously unknown in the district, but he was also responsible for leading the way in developing the winery technology necessary to produce modern table wine in a fiercely hot summer climate. Glen McWilliam embraced the technology pioneered by Orlando and Yalumba in the mid-1950s for the handling of white grapes, adapting it to the particular requirements of the region. No one can have a perfect vision of the future, and the initial success with Cabernet Sauvignon (the 63 vintage still stands as a freakish landmark) and Riesling was a false dawn. Its real strength lies in its efficiency: the 5680 hectares produced 86 119 tonnes of grapes in 1996 at an average of 15.16 tonnes per hectare. This compares with the a verage yield of 5.94 tonnes per hectare for the Upper and Lower Hunter Valley. Consistent with this penchant for efficiency the Murrumbidgee is a scenically barren area: the vineyards are laser-flat, the wineries functional, and the cellar-door sales areas a rococo blend of Australian Italian do-it-yourself architecture. As a final deterrent to visitors, Griffith is a long way from anywhere. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation Big Rivers Zone 00'S, 146 140 m Subregions Griffith and Leeton (and others further afield). Climate The climate is hot and dry, although slightly cooler than South Australia s Riverland and Victorian Sunraysia. All forms of perennial agriculture depend on irrigation from the Murrumbidgee River. Grape growing is reliable and yields high with a minimal disease load. With a low requirement for sprays, growers have adopted low impact vineyard management systems. Autumn rainfall which usually commences in Apr il is essential for the development of botrytis in Semillon. Statistics Heat degree days: 2201 Sunshine hours per day: 9.3 Annual rainfall: 410 mm Growing season rainfall: 200 mm Mean January temperature: 23.8 Harvest: Early February early May Soil The soils are generally sandy loam overlying a sandy clay loam or clay subsoil: however, as they were deposited by ancient streams they are highly variable. They range from red sandy earths (Gn1.13) through to red and brown mas sive earths (Gn2.13 and 2.46): the duplex soils in the Dr2.33 and 2.33 range found in so many Australian regions are also common. While free draining near the surface, subsoil waterlogging has been a major problem, particularly with associated salinity build-up. Principal Grape Varieties Semillon: 1284 ha Trebbiano: 609 ha Chardonnay: 544 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 382 ha Colombard: 372 ha Other white: 654 ha Total white: 3845 ha Shiraz: 1039 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 312 ha vedre: 99 ha Merlot: 68 ha Ruby cabernet: 73 ha Other red: 244 ha Total red: 1835 ha Principal Wine Styles Semillon: Picked at normal maturity, semillon provides a pleasant wine (which may be blended with other varieties) and is used in the making of generic styles hitherto having names such as Chablis and White Burgundy. When left on the vine for a full two months after normal maturity (and if the weather conditions are favourable) Botrytis cinerea, noble rot , may attack the grapes, concentrating both sugar and acid, and producing the luscious Sauternes-style dessert wine pioneered by De Bortoli in 1982 but with an increasing number of sincere flatterers. The best of these wines (especially De Bortoli) is of world class; intriguingly, no other part of Australia is able to work the same magic with such regularity. Chardonnay: Not surprisingly, Chardonnay is of increasing importance, and with the judicious use of oak (whether as oak chips of through oak barrels) it can produce a wine of fair varietal flavour, weight and style. De Bortoli, Riverina Wines, Miranda (the Wyangan Estate range), Rossetto (the Mount Bingar range) and McWilliam s have done best. Other White Wines: The substantial plantings of trebbiano, muscat gordo blanco and colombard are principally used as blend components in major wine company casks and flagons, with Orlando and McWilliam s the major users. How long these grapes (particularly trebbiano an d muscat gordo blanco) will remain in demand given the flood of Chardonnay coming onto the market remains to be seen. Red Wines: McWilliam s is the major producer of bottled red wine from the region with is Cabernet-based wine offering a pleasant, leafy, light-bodied, early-maturing (one to three years) drink. As with the white wines, much of the annual crush disappears into the anonymity of casks, but De Bortoli, Riverina Wines Ballingal Estate label and Rossetto Mount Bingar can provide exceptions to the rule. Riverina Wines has had conspicuous success with both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, making wines of great colour and flavour, utterly belying the conventional view of such wines from the Riverina and/or the Riverlands. Fortified Wines: The region is also a major producer of fortified wines. While most are cheap (and of modest reputation and quality), McWilliam s in particular has some superb aged material which it uses in its much-gold medal winningMd Show Reserve series, with its Muscat, Amontillado Sherry and Oloroso Sherry the outstanding wines. Big RiversI A"Murray Darling and Swan Hill (NSW)B The riverlands of Australia are a remarkable achievement in a continent which has only grudgingly provided a habitat for its European invaders around its eastern and southwestern coastline and in its southeastern corner. Attempts to impose order and infrastructure on the dry centre have been few and far between: the Ord River Scheme was a failure, while plans to turn the east-flowing river system of New South Wales and Queensland inland remain the dream of a few visionaries. Only along th for their personal consumption and that of their relatives; a few entered into fully commercial winemaking, concentrating on fortified wines of indeterminate style using hybrid grape varieties. It is a difficult climate in which to grow grapes for table wine. Up to the late 1960s, hybrid varieties such as baco and seibel countered the heavy rainfall and high humidity, but the demands of the modern era meant that the foxy taste of the wine produced from these grapes was no longer acceptab le. Plantings dwindled, as did the number of licensed vignerons. Just when it seemed viticulture would disappear altogether, new life was breathed into Northland. The former Continental Wines established in the 1960s just south of Whangarei ripped out its hybrids, planted 6 hectares of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot on elevated slopes above Whangarei Harbour, and changed its name to Longview. The reward has come in the form of a succession of sweetly ripe and textured C abernet Sauvignons, Cabernet Merlots and Merlots. More recently, the viticultural map has extended all the way to Kaitaia, at the southern end of the Ninety Mile Beach at the very tip of Northland. Here Monty Knight has established Okahu Estate, with a number of provocatively but cheerfully named wines, including Kaz Shiraz, which achieved an impressive double record at the 1996 Liquorland Royal Easter Show when it won Northland s first show gold medal and the first gold medal awarded to a New Zealand Shiraz. Matakana lies roughly halfway between Northland proper and Auckland, and technically is part of the Auckland province. But a flurry of much-hyped arrivals in the late 1980s and early 1990s demonstrate a similar capacity to that of Northland to make rich, full-bodied red wines if and it is a big if there is not too much rain in the latter part of summer and early autumn. The biggest bang was that of The Antipodean, which in 1988 released its 1985 Cabernet Merlot Malbec, asserting its superiority to First Growth Bordeauxs and demanding the then undreamed of price of over $90 a bottle. An equally public dispute between the owners and brothers James and Peter Vuletic led to a dissolution of the partnership and a hiatus in production a mere two years later, but as Hollywood has long realised there is no such thing as bad publicity. Peter Vuletic ended up with the brand name and the 1.8 hectare vineyard, while Auckland lawyer James Vuletic pro mptly planted Providence Vineyard, and repeated history by demanding $62 a bottle for his first vintage (1993) when it was released in 1995 a price only exceeded by The Antipodean. Further south, David Hoskins and wife Mary Evans at Heron s Flight Vineyard have shown it is not necessary to grab headlines in order to sell wine. Their 94 Heron s Flight Cabernet Merlot is quite outstanding, perfectly ripened in the manner of the best wines of Waiheke Island, but which also pointed to the climatic difficulties of the region by not being made (at all) in either 1995 or 1996. If Matakana is not quite in Northland, Great Barrier Island is definitely not, sitting like a molar tooth detached from the mouth of the Hauraki Gulf, 50 kilometres east of the Matakana region coastline. Here John Mellars has established not only New Zealand s smallest vineyard and winery, but its most inaccessible. The relative dearth of properly ripened Bordeaux-blend red wines from New Zealand, coup led with the ever-increasing symbiosis between wine and tourism, suggest that these northern regions are here to stay, and that the long period of decline has been reversed. However, no one should be under any illusion that winemaking in this part of New Zealand is easy David Hoskins of Heron s Flight will attest to that. Its latitude is not far south of Sydney, and the summers are as humid as they are warm. Rain bearing depressions and occasional cyclones like Bola can sweep down f !rom the tropical north and within 24 hours turn a perfect vintage into a nightmare. In this environment, botrytis and fungal diseases are a constant threat, a problem magnified by the typically vigorous growth of the vine in these rich soils. But the rewards are there in years like 1994. Murray Darling (Vic)B Victoria The riverlands of Australia are a remarkable achievement in a continent which has only grudgingly provided a habitat for its European invaders around its eastern and southwestern coastline and in its southeastern corner. Attempts to impose order and infrastructure on the dry centre have been few and far between: the Ord River Scheme was a failure, while plans to turn the east-flowing river system of New South Wales and Queensland inland remain the dream of a few visionaries. Only along th e giant Murray River (and on a lesser scale, the Murrumbidgee) has the parched red sand and stunted growth of saltbush and spinifex grass been transformed into a giant orchard, and a vegetable and rice garden. Because the country is so monotonously flat, and the distances so vast, only by flying along the Murray can one gain any real perspective of the extent of the achievement. In the relentless dry heat of summer the road stretching in front of the intrepid driver shimmers, wobbles and suddenly disappears into a wonderful mirage, the classic oasis of water and trees. As you sweep past barren earth into another area under irrigation, the lush green of the vines and orange trees momentarily seems to be yet another mirage, but it is not. With the magic elixir of water, plants grow with an almost savage fury, bearing crops which are if anything altogether too bountiful, too perfect to be true. In the dry air, diseases seldom take hold, and the maintenance of a healthy vineya rd is (relatively speaking) an easy matter. It is also relatively inexpensive; the large size of the average holding, the degree of mechanisation, the reliability of the weather and the abundant yields all reduce the cost of producing each tonne of grapes to an absolute minimum. Most of the grapes are produced by growers who sell to a few extremely large wineries some situated in the Riverland, others far away. The wineries have all of the atmosphere of a petrol refinery, and the landsca pe is monotonously flat. This is not the glamorous face of winemaking, it is simply the most efficient and economical. In this context, the Murray River is the umbilical cord first joining the States of New South Wales and Victoria and thereafter (as it travels west) South Australia. The vignerons (and the vineyards they tend) are interested only in the life-giving abilities of the water of the Murray River, and not in the political divisions of State boundaries. Thus the Murray Darling a nd Swan Hill Region formally form part of both the Big Rivers Zone of New South Wales and the North West Zone of Victoria, the only Regions under the new legislation to fall within two zones. Together they encompass a vast area extending from Mildura in the west (near the South Australian border) to Swan Hill in the east, and are jointly responsible for growing around 40 per cent of the annual Australian crush. As the new millennium approaches, however, concern over the water resources of the Murray Darling basin increases. Rising salinity is the major problem, exacerbated by excessive or inefficient water usage. Like Greenhouse gases, there is a disagreement between experts about the extent and long-term effects of the problem; like the Greenhouse effect, there is no simple or quick solution. However, if water resource allocation is determined on a user-pays system or on a return per megalitre of use, the wine industry is well placed, for drip irrigation is a highly effic ient form of water use which generates high returns, with Israeli underground irrigation lines offering even greater efficiency. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation North West Victoria Zone and Big Rivers NSW Zone 13'S, 144 46'E Echuca 10'S, 142 10'E Mildura Subregions New South Wales: Balranald, Buronga, Deniliquin, Euston, Wakool, Wentworth (among others). Victoria: Irymple, Karadoc, Merbein, Mildura, Nangiloc, Redcliffs, Robinvale, Swan Hill (among others). Climate Although the distance between the eastern and western extremity is great (over 350 kilometres), the climate is similar, though there is an increase in heat summation as one moves east from Robinvale to Mildura. Basically it is hot, with long sunshine hours, low humidity and negligible growing season rainfall all contributing to make irrigation absolutely essential. The continental influence is strong, with consequent high shifts in diurnal temperature range s, but not sufficiently so to make spring frosts a problem. Fungal disease pressures are low, spray requirements minimal other than for control of eutypa (ordie-back disease). Statistics Heat degree days: 2150 Sunshine hours per day: 9.3 Annual rainfall: 280 350 mm Growing season rainfall: 130 150 mm Mean January temperature: 23.6 C to 23.9 Harvest: Late January mid-March Mid-February late March Soil The soil is unique to the Murray River system, but spreads alon g its entire length. It is technically known as calcareous earth (Gc1.22), ranging from brown to red-brown loamy sand, sandy loam or loam. The surface is neutral to moderately alkaline, becoming more strongly alkaline at depth as textures become more clayey and calcareous. The surface soils are permeable, but perched watertables (partly due to soil properties and topography, partly due to management practices) associated with salinity build-up can create problems in some areas. Princi pal Grape Varieties New South Wales Sultana: 750 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 250 ha Chardonnay: 137 ha Shiraz: 60 ha Total: 1197 ha Victoria Sultana: 3400 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 955 ha Chardonnay: 875 ha Colombard: 247 ha Shiraz: 214 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 190 ha Total: 5881 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: By far the most important product of the region likely to find its way into bottles acknowledging both the regional source and the var iety. Value for money is the key; the wines have a fruity softness and generosity which Australian consumers tend to take for granted, but export markets value highly. Other Table Wines: With the qualified exception of Colombard, most of the other table wines, white and red, are likely to end up in wine casks which have hitherto been sold under generic names due to be phased out under the European Community Wine Agreement. Whether that agreement, and the increasing availability of premium grape varieties, will lead to the appearance of more varietally designated casks remains to be seen. Fortified Wines: In an ever-shrinking market size and share, fortified wines, most of the cheaper sherries and ports are produced from the Riverland. Big Rivers NSWI Swan Hill (Vic)B Victoria The riverlands of Australia are a remarkable achievement in a continent which has only grudgingly provided a habitat for its European invaders around its eastern and southwestern coastline and in its southeastern corner. Attempts to impose order and infrastructure on the dry centre have been few and far between: the Ord River Scheme was a failure, while plans to turn the east-flowing river system of New South Wales and Queensland inland remain the dream of a few visionaries. Only along th e giant Murray River (and on a lesser scale, the Murrumbidgee) has the parched red sand and stunted growth of saltbush and spinifex grass been transformed into a giant orchard, and a vegetable and rice garden. Because the country is so monotonously flat, and the distances so vast, only by flying along the Murray can one gain any real perspective of the extent of the achievement. In the relentless dry heat of summer the road stretching in front of the intrepid driver shimmers, wobbles and suddenly disappears into a wonderful mirage, the classic oasis of water and trees. As you sweep past barren earth into another area under irrigation, the lush green of the vines and orange trees momentarily seems to be yet another mirage, but it is not. With the magic elixir of water, plants grow with an almost savage fury, bearing crops which are if anything altogether too bountiful, too perfect to be true. In the dry air, diseases seldom take hold, and the maintenance of a healthy vineya rd is (relatively speaking) an easy matter. It is also relatively inexpensive; the large size of the average holding, the degree of mechanisation, the reliability of the weather and the abundant yields all reduce the cost of producing each tonne of grapes to an absolute minimum. Most of the grapes are produced by growers who sell to a few extremely large wineries some situated in the Riverland, others far away. The wineries have all of the atmosphere of a petrol refinery, and the landsca pe is monotonously flat. This is not the glamorous face of winemaking, it is simply the most efficient and economical. In this context, the Murray River is the umbilical cord first joining the States of New South Wales and Victoria and thereafter (as it travels west) South Australia. The vignerons (and the vineyards they tend) are interested only in the life-giving abilities of the water of the Murray River, and not in the political divisions of State boundaries. Thus the Murray Darling a nd Swan Hill Region formally form part of both the Big Rivers Zone of New South Wales and the North West Zone of Victoria, the only Regions under the new legislation to fall within two zones. Together they encompass a vast area extending from Mildura in the west (near the South Australian border) to Swan Hill in the east, and are jointly responsible for growing around 40 per cent of the annual Australian crush. As the new millennium approaches, however, concern over the water resources of the Murray Darling basin increases. Rising salinity is the major problem, exacerbated by excessive or inefficient water usage. Like Greenhouse gases, there is a disagreement between experts about the extent and long-term effects of the problem; like the Greenhouse effect, there is no simple or quick solution. However, if water resource allocation is determined on a user-pays system or on a return per megalitre of use, the wine industry is well placed, for drip irrigation is a highly effic ient form of water use which generates high returns, with Israeli underground irrigation lines offering even greater efficiency. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation North West Victoria Zone and Big Rivers NSW Zone 13'S, 144 46'E Echuca 10'S, 142 10'E Mildura Subregions New South Wales: Balranald, Buronga, Deniliquin, Euston, Wakool, Wentworth (among others). Victoria: Irymple, Karadoc, Merbein, Mildura, Nangiloc, Redcliffs, Robinvale, Swan Hill (among others). Climate Although the distance between the eastern and western extremity is great (over 350 kilometres), the climate is similar, though there is an increase in heat summation as one moves east from Robinvale to Mildura. Basically it is hot, with long sunshine hours, low humidity and negligible growing season rainfall all contributing to make irrigation absolutely essential. The continental influence is strong, with consequent high shifts in diurnal temperature range s, but not sufficiently so to make spring frosts a problem. Fungal disease pressures are low, spray requirements minimal other than for control of eutypa (ordie-back disease). Statistics Heat degree days: 2150 Sunshine hours per day: 9.3 Annual rainfall: 280 350 mm Growing season rainfall: 130 150 mm Mean January temperature: 23.6 C to 23.9 Harvest: Late January mid-March Mid-February late March Soil The soil is unique to the Murray River system, but spreads alon g its entire length. It is technically known as calcareous earth (Gc1.22), ranging from brown to red-brown loamy sand, sandy loam or loam. The surface is neutral to moderately alkaline, becoming more strongly alkaline at depth as textures become more clayey and calcareous. The surface soils are permeable, but perched watertables (partly due to soil properties and topography, partly due to management practices) associated with salinity build-up can create problems in some areas. Princi pal Grape Varieties New South Wales Sultana: 750 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 250 ha Chardonnay: 137 ha Shiraz: 60 ha Total: 1197 ha Victoria Sultana: 3400 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 955 ha Chardonnay: 875 ha Colombard: 247 ha Shiraz: 214 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 190 ha Total: 5881 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: By far the most important product of the region likely to find its way into bottles acknowledging both the regional source and the var iety. Value for money is the key; the wines have a fruity softness and generosity which Australian consumers tend to take for granted, but export markets value highly. Other Table Wines: With the qualified exception of Colombard, most of the other table wines, white and red, are likely to end up in wine casks which have hitherto been sold under generic names due to be phased out under the European Community Wine Agreement. Whether that agreement, and the increasing availability of premium grape varieties, will lead to the appearance of more varietally designated casks remains to be seen. Fortified Wines: In an ever-shrinking market size and share, fortified wines, most of the cheaper sherries and ports are produced from the Riverland. North West VictoriaI A GlenrowanB Victoria Northeast Victoria, once an easy to understand concept, has now split itself into four regions: the King Valley, the Ovens Valley, Rutherglen and Glenrowan. The separation of the first two makes obvious commonsense: the King and Ovens valleys provide dramatically different climatic conditions from those of Rutherglen and Glenrowan once altitude comes into play. The higher the altitude, the cooler the summer, the finer and more delicate the wines. But Rutherglen and Glenrowan, although sep e giant Murray River (and on a lesser scale, the Murrumbidgee) has the parched red sand and stunted growth of saltbush and spinifex grass been transformed into a giant orchard, and a vegetable and rice garden. Because the country is so monotonously flat, and the distances so vast, only by flying along the Murray can one gain any real perspective of the extent of the achievement. In the relentless dry heat of summer the road stretching in front of the intrepid driver shimmers, wobbles and suddenly disappears into a wonderful mirage, the classic oasis of water and trees. As you sweep past barren earth into another area under irrigation, the lush green of the vines and orange trees momentarily seems to be yet another mirage, but it is not. With the magic elixir of water, plants grow with an almost savage fury, bearing crops which are if anything altogether too bountiful, too perfect to be true. In the dry air, diseases seldom take hold, and the maintenance of a healthy vineya rd is (relatively speaking) an easy matter. It is also relatively inexpensive; the large size of the average holding, the degree of mechanisation, the reliability of the weather and the abundant yields all reduce the cost of producing each tonne of grapes to an absolute minimum. Most of the grapes are produced by growers who sell to a few extremely large wineries some situated in the Riverland, others far away. The wineries have all of the atmosphere of a petrol refinery, and the landsca pe is monotonously flat. This is not the glamorous face of winemaking, it is simply the most efficient and economical. In this context, the Murray River is the umbilical cord first joining the States of New South Wales and Victoria and thereafter (as it travels west) South Australia. The vignerons (and the vineyards they tend) are interested only in the life-giving abilities of the water of the Murray River, and not in the political divisions of State boundaries. Thus the Murray Darling a nd Swan Hill Region formally form part of both the Big Rivers Zone of New South Wales and the North West Zone of Victoria, the only Regions under the new legislation to fall within two zones. Together they encompass a vast area extending from Mildura in the west (near the South Australian border) to Swan Hill in the east, and are jointly responsible for growing around 40 per cent of the annual Australian crush. As the new millennium approaches, however, concern over the water resources of the Murray Darling basin increases. Rising salinity is the major problem, exacerbated by excessive or inefficient water usage. Like Greenhouse gases, there is a disagreement between experts about the extent and long-term effects of the problem; like the Greenhouse effect, there is no simple or quick solution. However, if water resource allocation is determined on a user-pays system or on a return per megalitre of use, the wine industry is well placed, for drip irrigation is a highly effic ient form of water use which generates high returns, with Israeli underground irrigation lines offering even greater efficiency. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation North West Victoria Zone and Big Rivers NSW Zone 13'S, 144 46'E Echuca 10'S, 142 10'E Mildura Subregions New South Wales: Balranald, Buronga, Deniliquin, Euston, Wakool, Wentworth (among others). Victoria: Irymple, Karadoc, Merbein, Mildura, Nangiloc, Redcliffs, Robinvale, Swan Hill (among others). Climate Although the distance between the eastern and western extremity is great (over 350 kilometres), the climate is similar, though there is an increase in heat summation as one moves east from Robinvale to Mildura. Basically it is hot, with long sunshine hours, low humidity and negligible growing season rainfall all contributing to make irrigation absolutely essential. The continental influence is strong, with consequent high shifts in diurnal temperature range s, but not sufficiently so to make spring frosts a problem. Fungal disease pressures are low, spray requirements minimal other than for control of eutypa (ordie-back disease). Statistics Heat degree days: 2150 Sunshine hours per day: 9.3 Annual rainfall: 280 350 mm Growing season rainfall: 130 150 mm Mean January temperature: 23.6 C to 23.9 Harvest: Late January mid-March Mid-February late March Soil The soil is unique to the Murray River system, but spreads alon g its entire length. It is technically known as calcareous earth (Gc1.22), ranging from brown to red-brown loamy sand, sandy loam or loam. The surface is neutral to moderately alkaline, becoming more strongly alkaline at depth as textures become more clayey and calcareous. The surface soils are permeable, but perched watertables (partly due to soil properties and topography, partly due to management practices) associated with salinity build-up can create problems in some areas. Princi pal Grape Varieties New South Wales Sultana: 750 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 250 ha Chardonnay: 137 ha Shiraz: 60 ha Total: 1197 ha Victoria Sultana: 3400 ha Muscat gordo blanco: 955 ha Chardonnay: 875 ha Colombard: 247 ha Shiraz: 214 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 190 ha Total: 5881 ha Principal Wine Styles Chardonnay: By far the most important product of the region likely to find its way into bottles acknowledging both the regional source and the var iety. Value for money is the key; the wines have a fruity softness and generosity which Australian consumers tend to take for granted, but export markets value highly. Other Table Wines: With the qualified exception of Colombard, most of the other table wines, white and red, are likely to end up in wine casks which have hitherto been sold under generic names due to be phased out under the European Community Wine Agreement. Whether that agreement, and the increasing availability of premium grape varieties, will lead to the appearance of more varietally designated casks remains to be seen. Fortified Wines: In an ever-shrinking market size and share, fortified wines, most of the cheaper sherries and ports are produced from the Riverland. North West VictoriaI zealand north island zealand south island northern territory queensland south australia tasmania victoria western australia zealand north island auckland hawke's gisborne wairarapa waikato plenty Export Data Export Data arated by some distance, are a pigeon pair. Certainly, there are some differences in the fine print of climate and soil; certainly, there are subtle but definable differences in the wine styles. However, they have far more in common than in points of difference, and for this edition at least I have elected to group them together. (For the record, at the time of writing Rutherglen had made application for registration under the Geographic Indications legislation, but Glenrowan had not.) is is a part of Australia steeped in history, with character and personality second to none. One of the first vignerons in the northeast was Lindsay Brown, who took up the Gooramadda run in 1839. Gold came later, but Brown was convinced there was greater (and surer) wealth in viticulture. Victoria s great wine historian and chronicler Hubert de Castella records that Brown was in the habit of settling miners discussions as to the depth to which sinking of shafts should be carried. To get gold , he would say, you need sink only about 18 inches and plant vines As in so much of Victoria, gold and vines remained intertwined during the extraordinary boom days of 1860 to 1893 with Ned Kelly and the Murray River providing local colour each in a different way facilitating the flow of wealth. The bank crash of 1893 and the onset of phylloxera then struck hard at what had become Victoria s most important wine-producing region, but it had the resilience to survive. Right f rom the outset it was obvious the shimmering heat of the summer days, not to mention the acid-retention counterbalance of the cold nights, were ideally suited to the production of full-bodied red wines and even more to fortified wines. For reasons which are lost in the mists of time the emphasis fell on Muscat and Tokay, but the significance of the heavy red table wine market that the region developed in the United Kingdom cannot be overemphasised. It was this market which led to the esta blishment of the three great vineyards and wineries of the region: Mount Ophir (280 hectares), Fairfield (250 hectares) and Graham s (also 250 hectares). These produced massive quantities of both heavy table and fortified wine, most of which was exported in barrel to the United Kingdom. They survived the Second World War, sustained by the local market, and re-established their export franchise at its conclusion, but the shift away from fortified wine (and heavy table wine) led to their dem ise in the second half of the 1950s. Almost all of the smaller wineries and vineyards that were replanted after the onslaught of phylloxera survived, even if some changed names and/or owners. Largely for this reason the northeast is richly endowed with wineries and buildings which are as full of character (and history) as the people who inhabit them. Mercifully, the twentieth century has done little to destroy the inheritance of the nineteenth century, and the northeast stands proud among Australia s most interesting wine regions. The character of the wineries comes in part from the richness of the architecture, whether it be the main street of Rutherglen or the magnificence of the Victorian mansions of Fairfield and Mount Ophir, the humble galvanised iron of the working areas of wineries such as Chambers Rosewood and Morris, or the striking (and bizarre) castellated red brick walls of the pseudo-Scottish castle of All Saints Estate. As you move south to Glenrowan, you c ome to Ned Kelly country. It is only fitting that Baileys winery should be here; I shall never forget visiting it some 30 years ago (in 1967) nor shall I forget the 1954 and 1958 vintage dry reds we purchased (in large quantities) on that occasion. Baileys continues to make red wines fit for heroes, as does Cliff Booth at Taminick, but the greatest wines are the Muscats and Tokays. My eulogy for the great Muscats and Tokays of the region follows, so I need say no more here. But if you hav e a choice of visiting only a few of the regions covered in this book, Rutherglen and Glenrowan should be among them. The Region in Brief Location and Elevation North East Victoria Zone 01'S, 140 160 m Subregions None. Climate It hardly needs saying that the climate varies dramatically across the region. Even the plains have a significant altitude, with the nights made colder still by the air draining off the nearby mountains. Small wonder that sprin g frosts are a continuing hazard, or that they can destroy an entire vintage (witness 1968). It is no doubt also the reason why Rutherglen has a heat summation (HDD) of 1770, and although this is not far removed from Bendigo (1708) and the Clare Valley (1773), in reality the climates are simply not comparable. The rainfall at Rutherglen is 585 mm, with a bias towards winter and spring. Statistics Heat degree days: 1770 Sunshine hours per day: 9.3 Annual rainfall: 590 mm Growing sea son rainfall: 260 mm Mean January temperature: 22.3 Harvest: End February early May Soil The soils are diverse: the Warby Range at Glenrowan has produced a deep, friable red soil between the range and Lake Mokoan, which is granite-derived and well suited to red and fortified wine production; there are widespread gritty, gravelly quartzose sands, grey-brown in colour and which are extremely free draining; elsewhere red alluvial loam lies over river gravel, providing excellent mois ture retention; and there are also significant areas of sandy, mottled yellow duplex soils with clay subsoils. Principal Grape Varieties Muscadelle (tokay): 39 ha Muscat petits grains: 31 ha Total fortified: 70 ha Chardonnay: 83 ha Riesling: 77 ha Total white: 160 ha Shiraz: 128 ha Cabernet sauvignon: 104 ha Total red: 232 ha Total Plantings: 462 ha Principal Wine Styles Muscat and Tokay: If you have anything more than a passing int erest in wine, and you have never tasted either, please buy a bottle of each today. Remember that the wine will live for many weeks (months, even) after you have opened it: each glass, each night, will bring a new perspective, and at the smallest imaginable cost given the extraordinary quality of the wines. Shiraz: The traditional red wine of the area, which can achieve an opulence and power unequalled by any other part of Australia. In the 40s, 50s and 60s, that power was often accompanied by a degree of rusticity: the wines of Baileys and Booths, for example, were often described as being made from a mixture of grapes and nails, and iron bars. For a while there was a tendency to downscale the wines, and certainly the iron bars have disappeared from the mix, but now the wines are being allowed to flex all their Schwarzenegger muscle. Wines for heroes, a cold winter s night, and blood-rare char-grilled rump steak, and bloody marvellous. Campbells Bobbie Burns, Ba ileys (various, including 1920s Block) or Butlers are all good examples. Cabernet Sauvignon: A more recent arrival than Shiraz, but makes wines of only slightly less heroic dimensions. It appears both as a 100 per cent varietal wine and in various blends, obviously Shiraz and less so with varieties such as Mondeuse, usually with a chocolately taste. Durif: Produced by several wineries, but in the hands of Morris produces the ultimate expression of regional wine style, high ]in alcohol (usually 15 or more), high in extract, and a mix of chocolate and prune flavours which are quite unique. All of these characteristics also combine to make the wines long-lived. White wines: Sparingly grown and made, but over the years HJT Vineyards has produced some striking Chardonnays, as have Campbells in more recent times. North East VictoriaI Helvetica Geneva )RPTH FPTHA)4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Regions:Region Data CMSPC FPTHAC4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Wineries.WOR MSPCA NAMEA Wineries.WOR RPTHA Wineries.WOR ies.WOR M7FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Wineries.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune MSPCA NAMEA Wineries.WOR RPTHA Wineries.WOR 4Tune Region Data TEXTttxt Regions )4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Regions:Region Data John's Power Piece (see?) 4Tune John Cook MSPCA NAMEA Region Data RPTHA Region Data 4Tune Region Data TEXTttxt Regions )4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Regions:Region Data John's Power Piece (see?) 4Tune John Cook FMRLA Winery 4Tune Wineries.fp3 M7FMP3FMP3 Databases C4Tune:Jobs:Wine Guide:Wine Guide 98:Wine CD:Databases:Wineries.fp3 Spice Girls 4Tune John Cook 4Tune Pro 3.0F! Pro 3.0 - 4.0M1 zealand south island nelson marlborough canterbury otago canberra district cowra hastings river hilltops lower hunter valley mudgee orange upper hunter valley victoria ovens valley ballarat bendigo central victorian country south victoria geelong gippsland macedon valley grampians goulburn valley mornington peninsula yarra valley sunbury rutherglen pyrenees FaliA Export Data Export Data adelaide plains barossa valley clare valley coonawarra valley langhorne creek mclaren mount benson riverland koppamurra padthaway tasmania northern tasmania southern tasmania western australia south coast geographe great southern margaret river pemberton perth hills district queensland granite northern territory alice springs mount gambier tumbarumba shoalhaven other wineries other wineries other wineries waiheke island south australia adelaide hills canberra district cowra hastings river hilltops lower hunter valley mudgee orange upper hunter valley victoria ovens valley ballarat bendigo central victorian country south victoria geelong gippsland macedon valley grampians goulburn valley mornington peninsula yarra valley sunbury rutherglen pyrenees other wineries riverina northland matakana murray darling murray darling glenrowan other wineries